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La fourmilière

  • Contesto grado: US
  • Foto: 1
  • Ascensioni: 97
  • Aka: (Second other beer)
8

Stagionalità

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Descrizione

A small cliff with a few easy sport routes.

Limitazioni per l'accesso ereditato da Montagne d'Argent

The climbing area is maintained by "Parc d'Escalade et de Randonnée de la Montagne D'Argent" (PERMA) -- primarily a climber's organisation. Daily access fee was $14 as of summer 2021, and yearly memberships ($70 as of 2021). Being affiliated with the Alpine Club of Canada, members of certain sections may climb for free upon presentation of their club membership but are still required to pay for on-site camping.

On weekends, there is generally someone there to collect the fees, during the week this is more often done on the honour system.

The site is open all year round with artificial ice falls created over the cliffs over the freezing winter months for Technical Ice Climbing.

A complete guidebook (including hand drawn reproductions, contributed by a local artist) is generally available at the hut on weekends. It has maps for access to the cliffs, and drawings of all the cliffs with routes marked on them. The current official guidebook is fully bilingual.

Avvicinamento

From the main reception area, walk left past the obvious tall but gentle slab of La Petite Biere following the obvious path, after passing the small cliff with the nearly-horizontal crack in it (on the right) look up and right for a small cliff -- climb up the wet/loose path to the right end of the cliff, or continue along the path a bit further before turning right & walking up to the cliff.

Note calata

Lower off or rappel.

Storia

Grafico cronologico delle vie

An initial route was put in by unknown/unrecorded climbers sometime before 2012, then most of the routes were put up by Laurent Cloutier and Suzanne Chamberland in 2015.

Tags

Vie

Aggiungi via Aggiungi scheda Riordina Modifica in blocco Converti gradi
Grado Via

Left-most route.

FA: Laurent Cloutier & Suzanne Chamberland

Climbs up a groove to pass a small roof on the right side, then finish leftward.

The left-facing flake and crack system a bit right of the center of the cliff.

The MdA guidebook (2017 edition) lists the FA of this as being "21 aout 2015 - Laurent Cloutier et Suzanne Chamberland", likely the first ascent after cleaning and bolting. It was free-soloed by David Gibbs on July 22, 2012, and likely climbed before that as well.

Starts up a left-facing corner with a crack underneath -- some pleasant lay-back climbing -- to a slab finish.

The bolted route a couple meters right of the flake.

A steeper slabby start to easier, but pleasant, climbing above.

An even steeper slab start than the climb to the left, and more sustained at the grade, eases off after the 4th bolt.

Questa parete non è localizzata

Se sai dove si trova questa parete dedica un minuto a localizzala per la comunità. contattaci se incontri qualsiasi problema.

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