Ti preghiamo di notare che utilizziamo i cookie per migliorare la tua esperienza su questo sito web. Continuando a navigare sul sito, accetti Politica di utilizzo del sito TheCragAccetto
Onsight attempt. A small hold broke under the intermediate belay and catapulted me into the void. Didn't have enough time to give another try, therefore climbed the transition into the ice and the rest of the pillar quickly, and cleaned the route afterwards. Given the circumstances, felt much easier than Aux Lames Cytoiens, just as the local guides suggested, due to the easier ice transition.
Easy-looking ice, which turns-out to be nothing close to that. The exit featured a hollow pillar, followed by 7m of free-solo through sketchy ice/water/moss/boulders unit the top.
Going for the pillar with pre-placed gear, in order to save time. Very strenuous climbing, 90-95 degree ice, but with multiple holes, due to recent traffic, therefore making the climb somewhat closer to WI5+ in such conditions.
Very nice mixed route, starting on multiple horizontal limestone ledges, on tiny holds and minuscule feet, very friable, overhanging. Featuring a 1cm ice smear, which can be used for progressing. The icicle was broken, therefore making the exit more difficult than usual, and overhanging, on virgin ice, that had no holes in it. The local guides suggested that in these conditions the climb was much closer to M6+/Wi5+.