Batu Caves Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Table of contents

1. Batu Caves

3 2 4 10 9 1 5 6 7

1 Volleyball Site 2 Damai Wall 3 Red Rocks 4 White Wall 5 Nanyang wall 6 Roadshow Wall 7 Comic Wall 9 Nyamuk 10 Kura Kura

Summary:

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Stagionalità

312 routes in Crag

Calcare

Per lo più Arrampicata sportiva

Lat / Long: 3.242066, 101.687447

descrizione

http://www.climb.my/routes/selangor-kl/batu-caves/

1.1. Volleyball Site

Summary:

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Stagionalità

26 routes in Crag

Per lo più Arrampicata sportiva

Lat / Long: 3.240818, 101.694697

limitazioni per l'accesso

Original bolters of the crag has gain permission from the owner to climb on the premise. Be respectful and keep the place clean.

avvicinamento

Located in Batu Caves area. Search for a food court style restaurant name Gua Lepak. Go up to the rooftop and all routes start there.

storia

Volleyball got it’s name because there used to be an old volleyball court at the base of the crag, but that has long since disappeared. Also known as “The Dump”, Volleyball became a rubbish dumping ground for some rather unethical companies.

There used to be an old guy staying in the area. He did a great job of cleaning up the place, however, I think he might have been fighting a losing battle against the rubbish dumpers.

Around the year of 2023, the land owner has build a food court building attached to the crag wall. The structure has cut short almost all the existing routes into half of its original length. Original bolter Man Dyno approached the owner and managed to get permission to climb on the rooftop of the premise.

Retro-bolting and rebolting effort has been made by the like of Man Dyno, Akmal Noor and Aril to ensure safe approach of the route by avoiding huge runout at the start of the route. New fresh line has also been added.

Accurate and updated version of the topo will be updated in the near future when new lines are up. Stay tuned and enjoy!

		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		★★★ Pak Tan Lower Extension Hidden route to left of the gear shed. An extension of an existing route starting on the upper platform. This route starts with a boulder problem straight from the ground and finishes with 15m of tufa dancing before the anchor. Easily a classic FA: Muqri Nazrin, 3 Mar	7a	Sportiva 22m, 9
2		★ A.P. / Tribute to Rakyat FA: Akmal Noor	5c+	Sportiva 14m, 6
3		★★ Ants Cove / Bat Attack FA: Stewart Brown	6b	Sportiva 15m, 7
4		M.M.M. Tracciata: Akmal Noor		SportivaProgetto 14m, 7
5		★★★ Scorpion / King scorpion 1 Threaded + 5 Bolts FA: Stewart Brown	6c+	Sportiva 13m, 6
6		★★★ Malaysia Supreme / Missing Link Share same anchor Scorpion FA: Stewart Brown	6c	Sportiva 15m, 7
7		Tiger FA: Stewart Brown & Guy Hustinx	6b	Sportiva 18m, 7
8		★★ Kepala Naga / Ants in'ya Pants 7 Bolts + 2 Threaded 7th Bolt added 26/08/23 FA: Stewart Brown & Mark Santo	6a+	Sportiva 20m, 9
9		★★ Coves / Tree Total FA: Stewart Brown & Cliff Wilson	6a	Sportiva 20m, 6
10		★ G. Lepak / Barracuda	5c+	Sportiva 8m, 5
11		★★ $, RM	6b+/c	Sportiva 20m, 11
12		★★★ Witness the tension	6b+	Sportiva 20m
13		★★ La Nina	6b	Sportiva 20m, 6
14		★★ El Nino FA: Stewart Brown & Guy Hustinx	6b	Sportiva 23m, 6
15		★★ Sundance FA: Stewart Brown & Cliff Wilson	6b	Sportiva 20m, 11
16		Christmas Root FA: Stewart Brown & Melody Tan	6b	Sportiva 29m, 11
17		★★★ Waiting for Visa / No Visa Retro bolting by original bolter in progress. Tracciata: Akmal Noor & Man Dyno FA: Stefan Milota	6c	Sportiva 8
18		★ Danish Open project. FA up for grab. Tracciata: Danish, 2023		Sconosciuto 9
19		★★★ No Pian No Gian Tracciata: Man Dyno & Shawn Liam, Giu 2023 FA: Jafni Jamaludin, 9 Lug 2023	7b	Sportiva 7
20		★★ Sesat Habuk FA: Francis, Giu 2023 Tracciata: Aril, Giu 2023	6a+	Sportiva 7
21		★ Elephant Trunk Tracciata: Man Dyno, Giu 2023	5c+	Sportiva 10m, 6
22		★ Like Father Like Son Tracciata: Man Dyno, Giu 2023	5c+	Sportiva 11m, 5
23		★★ Like Father Like Son Extension An extension of the route Like Father Like Son by Abang Man Dyno on 10/03/24, adds 4 more bolts through a tricky boulder problem right before the anchor. FA: Azrul Yap	6b	Sportiva 15m, 9
24		★★ Like Father Like Son Ext An extension of the route Like Father Like Son by Abang Man Dyno on 10/03/24, adds 4 more bolts through a tricky boulder problem right before the anchor. FA: Azrul Yap	6b	Sportiva 15m, 9
25		★★★ Five See Tracciata: Man Dyno, Giu 2023	6b	Sportiva 23m, 10
26		★ Doctor Batu Extension bolting in progress. Tracciata: Radzi, Giu 2023	6b	Sportiva 6m
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1.2. Damai Wall

3 4 2 1

1 Left Wall 2 Main Wall 3 Right Wall 4 Cave Section

Summary:

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Stagionalità

76 routes in Crag

Principianti Guide nord Pianeggiante No campeggio Bagni <5 minuti Denominata Popolare Strapiombante Verticale Uscita con calata Calcare

Per lo più Arrampicata sportiva

Lat / Long: 3.247633, 101.687409

sommario

Topo http://ramonfadli.com/topo-batu-caves/

descrizione

The Damai area is a crag for climbers short on time because of the location. There are 30 routes, with most of them having grades of 5c to 6c. The crag was developed in the late 90s with expansion bolts.

Caution some routes at DAMAI have old bolts!

The limestone and it's minerals are effected by the sun, the water. With the age of the expansion bolts being 20 to 30 years old. The environmental factors contribute to the degradation of the older steel. Some anchors are built using rope slings which are also worn out from the adverse effects of the rain and sun (December 2023).

Be Mindful!

The crag is North-facing, however, due to the proximity of Kuala Lumpur to the equator the crag experiences all-day sun from about mid of March to August. Conversely, the crag experiences all-day shade from August to about mid of March.

The rock cliff is inside a city park with toilets, picnics area, skate park, fitness machines and BMX track.

Bring at least a 70 meter rope and 16 quick draws and a Helmet. As it is required by the paks management. A 10RM user fee is required. Also addition 1RM for shower and 1RM for toilet.

limitazioni per l'accesso

The crag is managed by Gau Damai Extreme Park. The site has rubbish bins to keep it litter free. There are toilets but you must pay a separate fee to use them. There are often beginners courses run on weekends.

Entrance fee is 5RM for Malaysians and 10RM for visitors.

Helmets must be worn for both climber and belayer. You can rent one (but they are sweaty) at the entrance.

avvicinamento

For Grab or other Ride Shares, search for "Gau Damai Extreme Park". This will bring you right to the crag.

Otherwise, getting to the Damai crag can be pretty tricky as it is nestled in the middle of the 'Kampung Wira Melayu' village. Taxis may not know how to get there and are more likely to drop you off at the Batu Caves temple which lies quite a distance away.

There are two buses available though (Intrakota 14 and 41 - the former departing from Central Market and the latter from Lot10 Shopping Centre) that will stop at the Pinggiran Batu Caves bus station. The bus station is still a little far from the crag itself but you should be able to make your way to Damai and White Wall by asking for directions or following a map. The Damai crag lies just next to a football field and a small mosque.

dove alloggiare

Around Batu Caves or in Kuala Lumpur cty.

1.2.1. Left Wall

Summary:

18 routes in Cliff

<5 minuti

Tutti Arrampicata sportiva

Lat / Long: 3.247473, 101.687866

descrizione

This side of the crag has bare reddish rock from a recent clearing. It lies to the left of the drain on the left side of the Main Wall just behind the gear rental building.

The crag is North-facing, however, due to the proximity of Kuala Lumpur to the equator the crag experiences all-day sun from March to August. Conversely, the crag experiences all-day shade from August to March.

storia

Damai is an excellent place to start to climb outdoors with a long history of climbing here. Mustapha and Wira Adventure Consultants bolted up many of the first routes, such as 3 Brothers and Monsoon, in the mid—late 1990s; Akmal added Nyamuk Ades and Jah Love Climbing soon afterwards. Many routes lack names on the rock, which has resulted in confusion over the location of the various lines, though the length and grades haven't changed.

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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		Unknown 1	6b	Sportiva 25m, 8
2		★★ Nyamuk Aedes Avvertimento Roccia: Loose rocks slab before the crux & light overhang to the crux Tracciata: Man Dyno & Akmal	6c	Sportiva 25m, 8
3		★★ Unknown 2	6b+	Sportiva 25m, 9
4		Unnamed 3 Mixed protection 4 bolts and 5 threads which are in a poor state (Sept 2023)	6a	Sportiva 25m, 9
5		★ Akar Molek	5c	Sportiva 15m, 6
6		★ Muji	5c+	Sportiva 14m, 7
7		★ Puteri	5c+	Sportiva 9m, 3
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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
8		★ Puteri (Variant) Instead of starting on the left, start on the right side just right below the 1st bolt of Puteri. The start is a solid 6b bouldery problem. The rest is just 5c+. The Lower Off is a pair of old slings through bolts, not a chain.	6b	Sportiva 9m, 3
9		Unknown 3 Lower off is to left of large chain visible from ground	6a+	Sportiva 28m, 10
10		★★ Unknown 4 Lower off is the large chain visible from the ground. Suggest 6a+ as start is much harder than route to right.	6a	Sportiva 28m, 10
11		★★ Unknown 5	6a	Sportiva 26m, 9
12		★★ Unknown 6	6a	Sportiva 33m, 11
13		★ Base Jumper Packs a lot of climbing into the first 3 bolts. Can clip the lower off and extend the route to the LO at the top of the cliff (33m with 2 extra bolts).	6b	Sportiva 26m, 10
14		★★ Senjang Gila Original guide had this route as Senjang Gila, but at some point was renamed to Sunday. Reverted to original name but no change in grade	6a	Sportiva 35m, 15
15		★★ Mesin Jahit (Sewing Machine)	6a+	Sportiva 33m, 14
16		★★ Sunday Originally known as Sunday, but changed at some point to Senyang Gila. Reverted to original name with no change in grade	6a	Sportiva 35m, 14
17		★★ Aciaci Buka Pintu 6a+ Avvertimento Attrezzatura fissa: Loose hangar on anchor Originally climbed by Akmal as Aciaci Buka Pintu but changed to TQ Dyork at some point. Returned to orginal name	6a+	Sportiva 28m, 8
18		★★ 3 Brothers Originally climbed and named 3 Brothers, but changed at some point to Singing Wall. Reverted to original name with no change in grade	6b	Sportiva 22m, 7

1.2.2. Main Wall

Summary:

35 routes in Cliff

<5 minuti

Per lo più Arrampicata sportiva

Lat / Long: 3.247654, 101.687349

descrizione

The crag is North-facing, however, due to the proximity of Kuala Lumpur to the equator the crag experiences all-day sun from March to August.

avvicinamento

None.

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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		★ Aciaci Buka Pintu Grade changed to match occurrence in Damai Left Wall	6a+	Sportiva 28m, 8
2		★★ 3 Brothers	6b	Sportiva 22m, 7
3		★★ Jah Love Climbing	6a+	Sportiva 28m, 12
4		★ Water on the Rock / 6 Jahanam	6a+	Sportiva 22m, 11
5		★★ Sasau P1 5c+ 22m 10 bolts P2 6a+ 25m 9 bolts	6a+	Sportiva 53m, 2
6		★ TJ	6a+	Sportiva 53m
7		★ Ichineesanghait Avvertimento Attrezzatura fissa: Avoid the tape anchor	6b	Sportiva 56m, 2
8		★ Up Step	5c	Sportiva 47m, 2
9		★★ Duckula Avvertimento Attrezzatura fissa: Bolt hanger missing	5c	Sportiva 28m
10		★★ Sweet Maria	5c	Sportiva 47m, 2
11		★ Permaisuri Avvertimento Flora e fauna: Snake was spotted in the cave at the anchor ledge	5c	Sportiva 20m
12		★★ Redemption Song	6b	Sportiva 73m, 3
13		★★★ Pink Diamonds for Everyone P1-Climbs between the tufas immediately left of 'Granular Spindrift', then heads slightly rightwards to the 'Monkey Line' belay; 5b 25m. P2-Step left onto the wall, and either pass the stalactite on the left to gain a faint groove that leads back rightwards across the wall, or alternatively climb the rightside of the stalactite (clipping the bolt) and then straight up the wall. Gain a small cave with a pillar (thread) and then a second larger cave with larger pillar; cam and thread belay, 5c 25m. P3- exit the cave on the right with a high thin thread through the stalactite veil. Use the stalacite to gain the wall above, good cam placements, then step left above the cave and continue straight up to the Good Onion belay. Clipping the first bolt on P3 'Good Onion' reduces rope drag; 6a 25m. FA: Gordon Scott, Edwin Goh & Samantha Tan, 16 Feb 2023	6a	Trad 75m, 3
14		Monkey Line	5c	Trad 60m, 3
15		★★ Granular Spindrift	5c	Sportiva 18m
16		★★ unknown Short route between Good Onion and Granular Spindrift.	5b	Sportiva 10m
17		★★ The Bank Robber P1 Climbs the first pitch of Redemption Song to belay under the small cave 25m 5c. P2 Leave the belay on the right hand side of the cave and climb the rib using trad gear (cams and nuts) then pass through the trees (slings) to gain the groove that runs up the left side of the Good Onion arete. Follow this to the top (cams, nuts and threads). Don't step right at the top to clip the last bolts of Good Onion. Use the Good Onion belay. 28m 5c P3 From the Good Onion belay climb the pocketed rock straight above the belay to gain the small niche (thread runer here). Holiday in the Bamboo Hotel continues straight up. Traverse left along the break towards the small tree (thread runner) and then step further left to gain the bolts of Redemption Song and the belay. 20m 5c. Abseil down Redemption Song FA: Gordon Scott, Edwin Goh & See Swee Yen, 29 Set 2022	5c	Trad 73m, 3
18		★★ Good Onion	6b	Sportiva 78m, 3
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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
19		★ Reservoir Doggin'	5c+	Sportiva 10m
20		★★ Monkey Highway	6a	Sportiva 40m
21		★ Ghana Power	5c	Sportiva 10m
22		★★ Moves like Juggers climb pass the route Lead Man's anchor and continue to higher anchor where the 2nd pitch start. climb the line straight up until you see arete where the bolt start to go left up. recommended to carry 2-3 alpine quickdraw for avoiding rope drag. Tracciata: Eddie ks & KY, 31 Mar 2023	6a	Sportiva 25m, 2, 10
23		★★ Lead Man	5c	Sportiva 12m
24		★★ Lightning Grip Also, Route Extension: "Just realized" (6b) 25mtr. (Akmal Noor 2003) Original Lightning Grip anchor removed.	6b	Sportiva 25m, 14
25		★ Golly Gully	5c	Sportiva 18m
26		★ Rain Man	6a	Sportiva 16m, 6
27		★ Thunder	6a	Sportiva 15m, 5
28		★★ Monsoon Monsoon got its name because it rained when they were bolting this route (or something to that effect).	6b	Sportiva 68m, 3
29		★★ Bad News	6a	Sportiva 42m, 2
30		★ KL Connection	6a+	Sportiva 25m, 2
31		★ Virgin Climb	6a	Sportiva 15m
32		★★ Crack X	6b	Sportiva 45m, 2
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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
33		★★★ Dry Season Pitch 1 Climb straight up from the ground Reach an anchor at approximately 10 meters in height Do not stop at the anchor; continue climbing The first anchor is on the left of the massive cave's roof Pitch 2 Climb up and right Pass a small tufa overhang, then you see the first bolt This pitch is the shortest Pitch 3 Climb straight up End at the left side of a bush Pitch 4 Climb straight up, then slightly right Face the crux of the pitch, a slab where you start going up and right Pitch 5 This pitch is not in the topo Climb up through a big overhang under the base jumping platform Still a project and ungraded, could be very difficult Note: Ants are expected along the route.	6c+	Sportiva 73m, 5
34		Unnamed	6c+	Sportiva 30m, 2
35		★ X Foot	6b	Sportiva 20m

1.2.3. Right Wall

Summary:

21 routes in Cliff

<5 minuti

Per lo più Arrampicata sportiva

Lat / Long: 3.247816, 101.686879

descrizione

The right wall is the area directly to the right of the metal yellow staircase (for access to the large cave above). A couple of routes begin below the large cave, and routes continue to the right.

The first couple of climbing routes navigate the root system of a tree protruding from the wall. there are some plants and bushes on the wall as no one cleans the daily. It is in a Jungle

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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		★★ Unknown 1	5c	Sportiva 8m, 4
2		★★ Unknown 2	5c	Sportiva 8m, 4
3		★★ Pokok	5c	Sportiva 18m, 7
4		★★ UnKnown 4	5c	Sportiva 18m, 7
5		★★ Bengwali Pewai First pitch. Sustain 10+ clips to the first anchor Second pitch. Very tricky 6b+ route with blind crimps and a lot of bad pockets. Anchor of the third pitch is near the tree to the right Third pitch. Very runout around 4m so its best to keep a level head. Fourth pitch. Tricky traverse to the right and on to the tufa. After that, 5c+ all the way	6b+	Sportiva 96m, 4, 12
6		★★ Unknown 5	6a+	Sportiva 8m, 3
7		★ Unknown 6	6a	Sportiva 6m, 3
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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
8		★ UnKnown 7 A short popular introductory route	5b	Sportiva 8m, 3
9		★ Chimera A real Chimera of a route - start up the old Unknown 7, continue straight up clipping the last bolt of Anchor or place nuts and small cams, then step left onto the steep cracked wall and go straight up using a couple of cams; at the final orangey/brown wall clip the bolt on the right (UnKnown 8) or place some nuts and cams, step onto the wall and fire straight up using either 2 bolts of Bengwali Pewai or placing large cams in the pockets. Lower off Bengwali Pewai FA: Gordon Scott, 10 Set 2023	6a	Trad mista 30m, 6
10		★★ Anchor	6a	Sportiva 15m, 5
11		Unknown 8 There is a poor thread beside the lower off point for Anchor which could be clipped, though there's a better bolt a little bit higher	6a	Sportiva 28m, 14
12		★★ Unknown 9	6a	Sportiva 28m, 10
13		★★ Unknown 10	5c	Sportiva 22m, 8
14		★★ Unknown 11 Located on the left of Kek Lapis. Route is slightly shorter than Kek Lapis, crux part is slightly overhang. Note that there is a severe rope drag on this route especially after you clip in right below the crux. 12 bolt and 2 threads.	6a+	Sportiva 25m, 14
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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
15		★★ Kek Lapis Juggy crux with polished left foothold after the small cave (rest point). Advise to use longer draws to reduce rope drag.	6b	Sportiva 27m, 12
16		★ Shorty Don't Care Tracciata: Syahmi Farhan FA: Aimi	5c+	Sportiva 7m, 3
17		★ Go Ayam Go Sayang Tracciata: Kaloi FA: Awang	5c+	Sportiva 8m, 4
18		★★ Mono	6c	Sportiva 8m, 3
19		★★ Unknown	6c	Sportiva 6m, 3
20		★ Unknown Crack	6b	Sportiva 6m, 4
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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
21		★★ Pisau / Graffiti wall This route is located on the extreme right of the right wall/section (the last bolted route) that starts on a wall with some grafitti on it. The route is a short 5-6m inclined bouldery sport climb with only 3 bolts and features a couple of bad crimps at the crux!	6c	Sportiva 6m, 3

1.2.4. Cave Section

Summary:

1 route in Sector

Tutti Arrampicata sportiva

Lat / Long: 3.247721, 101.687156

avvicinamento

Cave section can be access via yellow stairs/ladder at main wall. Do get permission and gate key from gear rental office.

1.3. Red Rocks

Summary:

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Stagionalità

10 routes in Crag

Arrampicata sportiva e Arrampicata trad

Lat / Long: 3.247960, 101.686156

descrizione

The rock here is similar in character to Pra-nang in Thailand, producing some good steep routes. The routes described are all bolted, although some of the top anchors could do with re-equipping. Shade can be found for most of the day. A 60m rope is required for some of the routes.

This small and overhanging crag offers 10 routes from 5c to 7b and is located west of Damai Wall next to a pond. The convex form of the rock gives shelter from the some during most of the day. The rock is very soft, so some of the holds are already pretty polished. Please, always check the expansion bolts and anchors.

avvicinamento

From Kuala Lumpur drive out on Jalan Kuching for approx. 10 KM until you see a sign for Kuantan/ Batu Caves. you will already be able to see the rock on your right. exit and turn right (direction Kuantan). follow the mainroad, pass the temples to your left. Approx. 500 m after the temple the first crags can be reached (Comic, Roadshow, Nanyang). Continue another 500 m to a BP Petrol station on the left, turn left directly after this into an area called Taman Industry Bolton. Follow this road till after an "S" some rows of industrial shop houses you can turn left into Jalan TIB 3. Follow this road till the very end. Take the left, cross the little bridge, then immediate right. Take the second left again, and follow this all the way down to the end...you will emerge from the residential area, come down a slight slope. You will then see a soccer field on your left, and the Damai Wall. Turn left after the field where you can park your car.(These are very small roads, so dont drive too fast, lots of kids running in and out.) From here - facing Damai Wall - you walk to the right and walk about 250 m through the village houses to Red Rock. For better descriptions please refer to Climb Singapore or the soon to be printed Climb Malaysia Guide Book.

Edit : This crag is no longer accessible due to overgrowth as of 10/9/2022

1.4. White Wall

Summary:

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Stagionalità

23 routes in Crag

Per lo più Arrampicata sportiva

Lat / Long: 3.246953, 101.689476

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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		Aimless	5c	Sportiva 20m, 8
2		★★ Rainbow Connection same anchor with Aimless	6a	Sportiva 20m, 8
3		★★ Lockdown Madness Tracciata: Radzi, Danial Idraki & Laurent Lacabanne, Dic 2020	6b	Sportiva 20m, 11
4		★★ Diana in Memory	7a	Sportiva 21m, 8
5		★★ First July same anchor as Opium War	6b	Sportiva 23m, 9
6		★★ Opium War	6a	Sportiva 22m, 12
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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
7		★★ Kick a Cloud 1st anchor after 9 bolts. 4 more bolts to reach the 2nd anchor just above the roof	6b	Sportiva 33m, 2, 14
8		★★ Kavadi	7a	Sportiva 24m, 9
9		Chili Padi left This is the left variation of the second pitch of Chili Padi. Hard moves at the roof.	7a	Sportiva
10		★★★ Cili Padi	7a	Sportiva 35m, 2, 16
11		★★★ Tahi Ayam	7a	Sportiva 18m, 7
12		★★★ Spicy Shit Extension of Tahi Ayam leading into the second pitch of Chili Padi	7b	Sportiva 32m, 12
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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
13		★★★ Premordial Soup Extension of Fake Meat to the left Tracciata: Patrick Andrey, Feb 2020 FA: Zahin, Mar 2020	7a+	Sportiva 30m
14		★★ Fake Meat The lower half of November '61. Starts on underclings to the right of the first bolt. Leads to an anchor on the large shelf.	6b	Sportiva 15m, 3
15		★★ Nov'61 Extension of an old route ‘Fake Meat’, leads out right from the anchor at the obvious ledge.	6c	Sportiva 20m, 8
16		Hisap Gam Estimated grade only, FA up for grab for this open project. Tracciata: Radzi	7c	Sportiva
17		★★★ Classic Route First pitch is sports climbing with 11 bolts, Second pitch is trad	6b	Trad mista 30m, 2, 11
18		★★ Kiyoshi Delight	6b	Sportiva 20m, 8
19		★★ La Face Cachée De White Wall FA: Laurent Lacabanne, Dic 2020 Tracciata: Radzi, Danial Idraki & Laurent Lacabanne, Dic 2020	6c	Sportiva 28m, 11
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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
20		★ Name of the Woman	6a+	Sportiva 15m, 8
21		★★ Enter the Dragon Remake	6b	Sportiva 25m, 3, 8
22		★★★ White Awake White Awake 1st pitch: straight up, then anchor to the right on a ledge. Bolted by Haziq 2nd pitch: starts at the tufa on the left of anchor. Go up, gradually left, then horizontal left, taking the 2nd pitch of ETDR's anchor. Bolted by Haziq 3rd pitch: exit ETDR by traversing gradually to the right. Hanging belay station. Bolted by Haziq and Carlos 4th pitch: straight up to the summit. Bolted by Carlos and Derick. Descent: Walk off from the back of White Wall/ETDR(trad gear required) OR 2 rap offs from the summits anchor to the newly bolted anchor of Nasa's Fantasy. Shoutout to Alif(Bird) and Verticale for the hangers' contribution. FA: Derick Chu, 8 Giu	5c	Sportiva 30m, 4, 8
23		Nasa's Fantasy	6b	Trad 20m

1.5. Nanyang wall

Summary:

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Stagionalità

42 routes in Crag

<5 minuti

Tutti Arrampicata sportiva

Lat / Long: 3.236531, 101.690194

descrizione

Area is OPEN. There has been issues with dumping & rubbish. However as of Jan 2013 it is clean and in constant use

avvicinamento

50 mtr from carpark

1.5.1. Left (Section A + B)

Summary:

10 routes in Area

<5 minuti

Lat / Long: 3.236397, 101.690283

descrizione

One of the older crags in the Batu Caves area with variety of climbs; easy to technical slabs even pumpy overhang. Easy access from the main road.

This crag’s area have been clean up by a group of volunteers back in Jan 2013 and looking forward with more help from all climbers all around to maintain of clean safe surrounding.

The area has a bunch of chickens in coops. The owner is friendly enough to let climbers climb, but some starts may be advisable with a clip stick (otherwise you may fall into a chicken coop).

Some of the anchors consist of rotting rope with 2 metal hangers.

avvicinamento

Nearest Address: 15 Jalan SM 5a,Taman Sunway Batu Caves, 68100 Batu Caves, Selangor Malaysia GPS Coordinates: Longitude: 101.690021 Latitude: 3.236928

If you are in Kuala Lumpur area radius or KL Sentral (Train Station), fastest way available will be by taxi(about 30mins drive) with the address Sunway Batu Caves(refer address above) . Distance estimated about 16.2km

Or you can take a train ride from KL Sentral to Batu Caves train station and take a short taxi ride to the same address. Distance from the station estimated about 1.4km

While reaching to the Sunway Batu Caves, you will see the crags on your left and hypermarket (Giant) on your right. Look for a car park with a Malaysian style car wash nearby and you are not too far from the crags, take a walk a bit further towards the appearing crags as you passing by the car wash site.

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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		★ Curry Laksa	6a	Sportiva 12m
2		★ Birthday Presents	6a+	Sportiva 12m
3		Westside	6c	Sportiva 20m
4		Disqualified	7c	Sportiva 20m
5		★★★ Flying Dutchman	6c	Sportiva 21m
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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
6		★★★ Two Inches Less Located left of Split Impression. Technical climbing from the ground up that kicks into high gear at the crux. A new Nanyang classic. Tracciata: See Tho Tuck Hoong, Lim Eng Loon & Kenneth FA: Lim Eng Loon	7a+	Sportiva 15m, 5
7		★★ Split Impression A bit polished, open pinches, slopers and underclings! FA: Yen	6b	Sportiva 30m, 2, 16
8		not named Tracciata: madmonkeyz	6c	Sportiva
9		★★★ Nasi Lemak Berempah Tracciata: madmonkeyz Mant: Kai Li	6c	Sportiva
10		★★ Pigeon poop party Tracciata: madmonkeyz Mant: Nettie Mclanaghan	6c	Sportiva 6

1.5.2. Right (Section C + D )

Summary:

32 routes in Area

<5 minuti

Lat / Long: 3.236684, 101.690174

descrizione

One of the older crags in the Batu Caves area with variety of climbs; easy to technical slabs even pumpy overhang. Easy access from the main road.

This crag’s area have been clean up by a group of volunteers back in Jan 2013 and looking forward with more help from all climbers all around to maintain of clean safe surrounding.

avvicinamento

Nearest Address: 15 Jalan SM 5a,Taman Sunway Batu Caves, 68100 Batu Caves, Selangor Malaysia GPS Coordinates: Longitude: 101.690021 Latitude: 3.236928

If you are in Kuala Lumpur area or KL Sentral (Train Station), fastest way available will be by taxi(about 30mins drive) with the address Sunway Batu Caves(refer address above) . Distance estimated about 16.2km

Or you can take a train ride from KL Sentral to Batu Caves train station and take a short taxi ride to the same address. Distance from the station estimated about 1.4km

While reaching to the Sunway Batu Caves, you will see the crags on your left and hypermarket (Giant) on your right. Look for a car park with a Malaysian style car wash nearby and you are not too far from the crags, take a walk a bit further towards the appearing crags as you passing by the car wash site.

		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		Madmonkeyz FA: 2012	8b	Sportiva
2		★ Circumcision FA: Yuen Li Tracciata: Aril & Razi	6b+	Sportiva 38m, 3, 10
3		no name	6c	Sportiva
4		no name1	6c	Sportiva
5		no name 2	5c	Sportiva
6		Hospitality FA: Manfred Eicron	7c	Sportiva 20m, 10
7		Hospitality right Avvertimento Attrezzatura fissa: old bolts		SportivaProgetto
8		Matrix Left	7b	Sportiva
9		★★★ Matrix FA: Shahreeza	7a	Sportiva 20m, 9
10		★★ Lost Monkey FA: Nasarizal	6c	Sportiva 22m, 7
11		★★ Chu Chai Going up the right of the Lost Monkey tufa system. Pleasant and easy climbing up from atop the concrete box, strong movements to the right. (August 2012, some hangers could use a tightening, bring a wrench. And I haven't gotten past the 2nd bolt as it breaks right and up.... I scrubbed some holds and made these movements at least do able. Keep and scrubbing and pulling... Good luck)	7a	SportivaProgetto 25m
12		★★ Quit Smoking 1 of the 3 routes that shares the same 1st bolt. 2nd bolt located on the left side then continue to go slightly left afterward till the end.	6a	Sportiva 12m, 6
13		★★ Indecision 1 of the 3 routes that share the 1st bolt. This route shares the 2nd bolt with Fist Full of Hangers. Continue straight afterward to the highest anchor located after the stalactite cave. FA: S. Brown & G. Hustinx	6b+	Sportiva 24m, 9
14		★ Right Decision P1 1 of 3 routes that shares the 1st bolt. Clip on the right for the 3rd clip, the route end inside a shallow cave with the anchor full of bird faeces. FA: Yuen Li	6a+	Sportiva 19m, 8
15		Right Decision P2 2nd pitch rarely done, therefore listed here separately. FA: Yuen Li	7a	Sportiva 19m, 2, 18
16		★★ Fist Full of Hanger Extension of the original route, skip the original anchor to avoid rope drag. Climb straight through the stalactite hole and the anchor is above. FA: unknown FA: Steward Brown & G. Hustings	6a+	Sportiva 21m
17		★ Black Sandy Extension of Fist Full of Hangers	7a	Sportiva 25m, 8
18		★ A few Hangers More FA: Steward Brown	6a+	Sportiva 22m, 9
19		★★ A Few Hangers More (Variant) Same start for original line of A Few Hangers More and keep going straight after the bolt with blue sling attached. Share the same anchor for Fist Full of Hangers (6a+) at the end.	6a+	Sportiva 15m, 5
20		★★ Scotch On The Rock FA: Steward Brown	6b	Sportiva 7m, 2
21		Go to Heaven Extension of scotch on the rock	7c	Sportiva 20m
22		★★★ Go To Hell FA: Nasarizal	7a+	Sportiva 15m, 6
23		★★ Whimper FA: Steward Brown	6a+	Sportiva 10m, 3
24		★★ Unknown	7a	Sportiva 8m, 3
25		★★★ Old Shoes Beware Anchor changed & updated on 1st November 2020, from sling anchor to stainless steel chain anchor by Aril, Faiz and Hatta	6c+	Sportiva 8m, 3
26		★★ Outing	6a+	Sportiva 2
27		★★ Welcome Lady	5c	Sportiva
28		★★★ Outstation Extension of Old Lady.	6c	Sportiva 21m, 8
29		★ Many Excursion	6a+	Sportiva 23m, 7
30		★ Handphone Disaster	5c+	Sportiva 20m, 8
31		★ Doris	6a	Sportiva 21m, 7
32		Christine	6a	Sportiva
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1.6. Roadshow Wall

Summary:

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Stagionalità

8 routes in Crag

Popolare Verticale sud Uscita con calata Calcare Parete

Tutti Arrampicata sportiva

Lat / Long: 3.236027, 101.689935

storia

Bolted in 2001

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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		Shariah Intended route name can be translated as Highway. FA: Patrick Andrey, 2002	7a	Sportiva 48m, 2, 18
2		★★★ Road Kill P2 is probably still a project as of 2021.. FA: Halil, 2001	7b	Sportiva 48m, 2, 18
3		Project Seems to be a project since 2001 or so..		Sportiva 18m, 6
4		★ Formula 1 FA: Adi, 2001	6b	Sportiva 16m, 4
5		Cookies Crumbles FA: Adi, 2001	6b	Sportiva 16m, 4
6		Unnatural Pro FA: Yuen Li, 2001	6a	Sportiva 17m, 4
7		Koohas FA: Adi, 2001	6a	Sportiva 19m, 5
8		Fighting Fear FA: Shahrul, 2001	5c	Sportiva 19m, 5

1.7. Comic Wall

Summary:

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Stagionalità

12 routes in Crag

Strapiombante

Tutti Arrampicata sportiva

Lat / Long: 3.235924, 101.689286

descrizione

Comic is located left of Roadshow, left of a small Indian Temple. This overhanging rock currently hosts around 15 routes short, but strenuous routes. Similar to Nanyang construction work is blocking the entrance.

etica

There is no guard control that would hold you back from climbing there (Though please respect the fact that the site is private, else if the owners get too pissed off, they might start cutting off the bolts).

1.8. Publicity Wall

Summary:

3 routes in Crag

Tutti Arrampicata sportiva

1.9. Nyamuk

Summary:

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F

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Stagionalità

101 routes in Crag

Arrampicata sportiva, Bouldering e Arrampicata trad

Lat / Long: 3.242154, 101.693629

limitazioni per l'accesso

Crag is free for access. However, red warning signs are placed on the roadside towards the crag to discourage entry due to its secluded from human traffic. Translated from Malay, "Warning, High risk limestone zones are prohibited from invading. Any accident is under its sole responsibility". Please be prepared for a lot of mosquitoes in the area. Belayers would be especially vulnerable. "Nyamuk" literally means "mosquito" in Malay

avvicinamento

The journey to Nyamuk wall from Damai is some 15 mins walk along the kampong road, Jalan TIB 3, till you reach Surau Al Muhajirin, whereby you will make a right turn from the Red Warning sign situated just after the Surau. The path towards the wall was covered with loads of debris and trash after passing some residences, and best to enter with a proper footwear. Some moderate uphill trekking required.

See link of Google Maps for exact entry point from the street.

https://www.google.com.sg/maps/@3.2437169,101.695561,3a,75y,233.17h,88.39t/data=!3m6!1e1!3m4!1sbeRXGAFWdYiA3Qcmwye21Q!2e0!7i13312!8i6656

1.9.1. Anopheles Section

Summary:

4 routes in Area

Arrampicata sportiva e Arrampicata trad

1.9.2. Shieldtox Section

Summary:

25 routes in Area

Tutti Arrampicata sportiva

		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		Station to Station This is a funny traverse starting with Two Pints and traversing all the way to the top of Voltaren. The second pitch follows the huge ledge to the right and then again traversing all the way to a belay on top of Osmosis. From here it is planned to traverse another 3 pitches, but this has not been climbed yet. FA: P.Andrey & J.Peet	6a+	Sportiva 70m, 2, 17
2		Two Pints	5b+	Sportiva 12m, 4
3		★★ Oxymoron	6c+	Sportiva 27m, 11
4		★ Orange Juice	5b	Sportiva 14m, 4
5		★★★ Le Futur N'est Plus Ce Qu'il Etait	6c	Sportiva 30m, 11
6		★★ Stigmata FA: Kevin Tan, 2003	7b	Sportiva 30m, 11
7		★★★ Love at First Bite FA: Philip Lim, 2003	7b+	Sportiva 31m, 11
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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
8		★★★ Chess Exposed climbing left of Diaper Jaya. The route is marked by the prominent roof that awaits the challenger after 20 m of nice, but dicey climbing. This roof leads to a perfect hand crack. Where the crack ends the crux starts (just before the anchor) FA: P.Andrey, 2003	7a	Sportiva 30m, 10
9		★★ Don't underbreak me Follows Diaper Jaya for 6 bolts, then heads left up through the reddish crumbly looking rock onto the ledge and spacey to the anchor. FA: P. Andrey, 2003	5c	Sportiva 30m, 12
10		★ Lau Beh Extension of Diaper Jaya. Instead of heading right to the anchor you tackle the overhang on top of the route. FA: P. Andrey, 2004	7a	Sportiva 30m, 12
11		★ Diaper Jaya Avvertimento Attrezzatura fissa: Questionable bolts Nice line following the black dihedral left of Bowel Movement, sharing the same anchor. FA: P.Andrey & J.Peet, 2003	6b+	Sportiva 29m, 10
12		★★ Bowel Movements Left of Harry's Code, leading through reddish rock on constantly good holds. First of a series of easy routes that were bolted with the aim to offer a new climbing area to the KL climbing community. FA: J.Peet & P.Andrey, 2003	6a	Sportiva 29m, 8
13		★★★ Pear	7a	Sportiva 28m, 7
14		★★ Harry's Code Follows the first 4 bolts of 'In Guns We Trust' then heads left to follow a black stain. FA: P. Andrey, 2011	7b	Sportiva 30m, 12
15		★★ In Guns We Trust Route that leads into the prominent flake in the centre of Shieldtox. Crux at the end when you are forced to leave the cosy environment of the inside of the flake. FA: P.Andrey, 2003	5c+	Sportiva 30m, 10
16		★★ 34 C Tracciata: Ana Maria Sanchez	6b	Sportiva 30m, 12
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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
17		★★ Bangsar Babes Backdrop Technical slab-climbing for most of the route, however the finish is overhanging on big squared holds. FA: P.Andrey	6a+	Sportiva 30m, 10
18		★ Voltaren Right exit variation of Bangsar Babes leading on top of the big ledge. FA: P.Andrey, 2003	6a	Sportiva 27m, 10
19		★ Kamchatka Start left of Shiok Sendiri, similar outfit, but a little bit easier than Shiok. The rapell anchor was placed low in order to keep the difficulties moderate. FA: P.Andrey, 2003	5c+	Sportiva 24m, 7
20		★★ Shiok Sendiri	6a+	Sportiva 26m, 9
21		★★ Hot Tempered Freaking Glue Gun Shares start with Shiok Sendiri, then heads right up the slab to a bulge where the crux is waiting. Then follows a jugfest that makes you smile. FA: Akmal Noor & P.Andrey, 2003	6b+	Sportiva 31m, 10
22		★ Prophylaxis Right of Hot Tempered Freaking Glue Gun, after technical start easy cruising to a powerful move that tests your flexibility. FA: P.Andrey, 2003	7b+	Sportiva 33m, 11
23		★★★ Sexual Harassment Panda FA: P. Andrey, 2005	7a	Sportiva 30m, 10
24		★★★ 14 draws without oxygen Start on the first 3 bolts of sexual harassment panda and then head right to join on noise pollution.. Tracciata: Patrick Andrey FA: Ana Maria, 11 Dic 2021	7b	Sportiva 33m, 14
25		Noise Polution FA: Shang Tracciata: Patrick Andrey	8a	SportivaProgetto 33m