Nodi in Maglič - Bioč - Volujak

Mountan range comprising the mountains Maglić(2338), Bioč(2397) and Volujak(2336) stretches in the north-western part of Montenegro, making a natural border between Montenegro and Bosnia and Herzegovina. In the heart of these mountains in the north-west, at an elevation of about 1500masl Trnovačko Lake is located and it can be used as a base for many ascents in the surrounding rocks. In these mountains there are some of the highest rocks in Montenegro. These rocks were systematically covered at several rock&alpine climbing camps, run in the period from 1949 to 1956, when the largest number of routes was ascended as well. Unfortunately, since then, there are almost no data on rock&alpine climbing activity in these rocks. Within this group of mountains we are going to present Mt Trnovacki Durmitor, too, which is situated among these three massifs and represents a separate entity.

How to Get There

From the Montenegrin side, the best starting point for all climbs and tours in these mountains is the town of Plužine, about 140 kms away from Podgorica, and then one should continue further on towards the Mratinje village, the Stabna village and Trnovacko Lake. The road from the town of Plužine, which is located on the main road Nikšić-Plužine-Foča, leads to the Stabna village. When going from the direction of Nikšić, before the bus station in Plužine, one should turn left into the town. Then one should follow a wide street leading on one's left-hand side. Its extension is also a road leading past Pivsko Lake to the Stabna village along the Vrbnica River. The road is passable for all vehicles. Mratinje village can also be reached along the main road Nikšić-Plužine-Foča. From the direction of Nikšić one should go past Plužine, and continue along the main road leading along Pivsko Lake. When the dam is reached, one should cross it. At the very end of dam there is a tunnel in which the crossroads to the Mratinje village is located as well. One should enter the tunnel which is marked with a signpost and follow the road further on. You can't miss it. The big crags in the massif of Mt Bioč can be reached fastest from the valley of Mratinje. Trnovačko Lake can be reached from three directions. The two of these are in the Montenegrin territory and one is in the Bosnian territory and it is the easiest one. First starts from the Stabna village along the woody valley to Malo Stabansko Lake. From there a steeper ascent to the big lake follows. From the lake head rightwards uphill through the pass to Stabanjska tap. Further to the north along the slopes of Krvava brda(Bloody hills) into the Smrekovac valley where there is a spring. One should continue along the valley to Urdeni dolovi where there is a crossroads of the marked roads. One should follow the left road. Then the descent down the stony and scree-covered slopes follows. One reaches Jezerski klanac(Lake Gorge), from where the road goes along a little wood and steep scree to Trnovacko Lake. From Stabna village the road is a footpath. A long and gruelling approach. The other difficult approach goes from the Mratinje village towards Carev do (Tzar's Dale) from where the trail goes steeply downhill towards the lake. The third and the easiest approach to the lake is from the Bosnian side, Foča-Tjentište-Dragoš sedlo-Prijevor, from where one-hour hike leads you to the lake. A gravel road runs from Tjentište further on, and it is good and suitable for passenger cars.

Where to Sleep.

Bring your tents along. There are no mountain huts, shelters or bivouacs on these mountains-

Climbing season lasts from late spring to early autumn, but climbing is the best during the summer months, because most rocks have the western or northern orientation.

Mt Bioč is the largest group of peaks which are positioned between the deep canyons- Sutjeska Canyon on the west and Piva Canyon on the east. The largest crags in the area of these three mountains are located in this massif.

Vrsta(The Sort) Peak is the predominant peak on the southern side of the Mratinje valley. It is characterized by an impressive north-east rock face, with the height of about 700m and the west rock face with the height of about 300m. North-east rock face with its exposed ridge forms, along with the west ridge of Oblik Peak, an amphitheatre of steep gulleys, and short rocky verticals extending to the north rock face of the barrier of Veliki Bioč and Gladište. In the rock face of Vrsta Peak there are two routes of 700 m, Istočni brid(The East Rim), IV and Centralni smjer(The Central Route), V, which were ascended 60-70 years ago but they still haven't got the first repeat!

The approach to the north-east rock face of Vrsta Peak goes from Mratinjsko Lake near the Mratinje village, through forest along the smaller lake to the screes below the rock.

Oblik(The Shape) Peak is located eastward from Vrsta Peak and its north rock face represents a logical direction of extension of the north-east rock face of Vrsta Peak. It has a height of 450m, and width of about 1000m. The approach is the same as for Vrsta Peak.

North rock face of Gladište Peak is the biggest rock of the group of Mt Bioč. It has the height of about 750m, and the width of about 3.5kms. In spite of its size it is hidden from the looks, almost from all sides. The approach to the crag goes from the Mratinje village along the herd path to the south, along the wooded slope to the meadows of the Oblik katun. Going along the south-eastern slopes of Oblik Peak through the forest one comes out onto the screes. Traversing the screes one comes out above the two karst sinkholes below the north rock face. Oblik katun can be reached from Mratinje Lake traversing the base of the north rock faces of Vrsta Peak and Oblik Peak. The imposing rock face of Gladište Peak is visible from the shores of the accumulation lake, or, more accurately, somewhere halfway from the road leading from Plužine to the Mratinje dam. The rock has not been ascended yet.

In the triangle among the rivers Piva, Drina and Sutjeska Maglić occupies the smallest space. The northernmost peak of the massif is at the same time the highest point of Bosnia and Herzegovina - Bosanski Maglić Peak(Bosnian Maglic) 2386 m. The peak has the shape of a pyramid, and all its faces are rocky. 400 m further to the south 2 m higher Crnogorski Maglić Peak(Montenegrin Maglic) is located . The north-west rock face of Bosanski Maglić Peak faces Perućica Primeval Forest. It is about 300m in height. It is rather rugged and compact looked as a whole. An obvious rib dominates its central part. The upper section of the rock face ends in the double-headed ridge. Approach to the rock is from the end of the road to Prijevor in the direction of the east, over the slopes covered with mountain pine. Drugi kotao(Second Kettle). Southwards from the first kattle there is the second kettle as well. It is bounded by the two east ridges the southernmore of which is considerably more jagged. From its north side "The Alpine Route" leads to the summit of Bosanski Maglić Peak. That ridge has the north rock face plummeting into the second kettle. It has a height of about 200m. That rock ends on the lower foresummit of Bosanski Maglić Peak. There it joins the east rock face which has a height of 250m. Along its height it is intersected with gullies. Approach to the rock is from " The Alpine Route" rightwards into the kettle hole. Crnogorski Maglić Peak

It has a height of 2388 m. Further southwards from the second kettle, the third kettle is located. The kettle has two prominent rock faces, the north face and the east face. The north rock face is prominent for its height and exposure. It has the height of about 300m. Especially in the middle of the rock face smooth slabs and overhangs are noticeable. This rock face via the narrow crack turns into the east rock face which is along its height wrinkled with gullies and chimneys. It has the height of around 250m. The approach is from the "Alpine Route". West and south-west rock face of Crnogorski Maglić Peak are separated along the centre with the jagged ridge which lowers down all the way to Stavljani, above Suva jezerina(Dry Lakeland). West rock face starts from a narrow cleft and grassed slope in its extension which separates the south-west rock face of Bosanski Maglić from Crnogorski Maglić. The crag starts with a fairly large rocky mass with the height of about 150m. Further on it increases all the way to the south-west ridge.The crag is rugged and exposed. The central section of the crag is about 300m high. The south-west rock face is situated somewhat closer to Trnovacko Lake. It has a height of about 200m. Below it there is a large scree ending on the grassy slope, which then, over the short rocky vertical, runs downhill into Suva jezerina. Approach to the rocks is from Prijevor, that is to say from the road to Suva jezerina and Trnovacko Lake. In order to approach it one should surmount short rocky verticals

Vlasulja Peak has the highest rock face in the massif of Mt Volujak with the height of about 350m. Central part of the north rock face is the most prominent. Going eastwards and westwards the rock face is gradually decreasing. Central part of the rock has the shape of trapezoid. It is characterized by its exposure and smooth slabs. The western section of the north rock face is about 200m high and it is intesected by chimneys and cracks. There are eight ascended routes on this crag. Like on most routes in this region, the difficulty grades III and IV with rare details of the V grade prevail.

Approach to below the rock goes from Trnovacčko Lake along the trail through the forest to the west to Trnovačke kolibe. Ascent should be continued along the trail leading through the dale on the west, which turns abruptly towards south-east to below the crag.

Within these group of the mountains a special place is occupied by the rocky barrier of Mt Trnovački Durmitor which towers above the lake on its southern side. The north-west rock face of Trzivka Peak and the north rock face of Centralna glava Peak(Central Head) are the most prominent parts of this massif. In these rocks there are the most of ascended routes in this region in general- about 20. Almost all routes were ascended at the rock&alpine climbing camps in 1954 and 1956. All of them are up to IV grade of difficulty except Direktni smjer trapeza(The Direct Route of Trapesoid) - Grade VI.

Trzivka Peak is situated in the eastern part of the massif of Mt Trnovački Durmitor. The approach is from the marked trail Trnovačko Lake-Presjeka-Urdeni dolovi. The north-west rock face of Trzivka Peak is the highest crag in the massif of Mt Trnovački Durmitor. It has a height of about 350m. The approach to the rock is from Trnovačko Lake, along the herd path which turns left from the saddle, from the road to Trnovačke kolibe.

North Rock Face of Centralna glava Peak Centralna glava Peak is, as its name says, the central peak in the massif of Mt Trnovacki Durmitor. Its northern section has several characteristic groups of crags. In the eastern part of the crag there is a prominent shape similar to the one of the trapesoid. It is connected with the north-west rock face with two obvious gulleys between which a rather large ridge sticks out. Central section of the rock face is the most prominent and the largest one. It has a height of about 250m. Approach to the rock is from Trnovačko Lake, along a herd path turning left from the saddle, from the road to Trnovačke kolibe - 1hr.