Vie come trad in Nuova Zelanda

1. To reach the next route head left along the track past some steep faces (good boulder traverse) to a large left leaning dihedral. This is the Dihedral Wall, and is easy to spot from the carpark. Climb easily up to the base of a shallow groove a few feet left of the dihedral. Head up the groove past a fixed nut, traversing left at the top of a ledge to two bolts. A bit run out. From here there are two options for continuing. Pitch

2. From the two bolts head right to the crack (look for an old wooden peg from the original attempt). Step right and follow a series of underclings (1½ cam) and scoops to a right tending ramp (bolt and 3 cam), then up to chain belay. The bolts were added by Guy White, Chris North and Emily Lane in 1996, thinking they were doing a

Instead of belaying at the bolts at the end of the first pitch of The Dihedral, carry on straight up through some flakey ground (crux) to the crack (cams). Follow the crack left around a corner (cams) and up to a piton to belay. To descend, traverse left and down to a small tree and abseil off.

1. An enjoyable, airy climb, and the most direct line on the North Face. Climb the first two pitches of The Dihedral, avoiding the belay station at the end of the first pitch.

2. Starts to the right of belay bolts. Climb the face direct past a bush (bolt). Move up to a ramp (friends) tending left to reach another bolt. Climb through bulges (cams and 3 bolts), then follow crack to reach chain belay next to small manuka bushes.

3. Up a slab left of the belay, through a bulge (large cam and 10 hex), to an easy scramble rightish (bolt) before stepping onto ramp. More bolts protect the crux — an overhang surmounted by bridging, then through a grassy bit to belay on a large rock to left.

1. About 40m further left is a grassy bank. On the left is a slabby rock band, and this is the start. Climb the slab via small ledges and bridging near the top to a large grass covered bank and tree belay on left. Not much pro.

2. A difficult to find and strenuous start on the face below an overhang till a jug can be reached. Climb up to overhang (cams), then traverse left on small holds till the roof can be turned via a jug and small ledge. Head right to grassy ledge and belay off small tree.

3. Head up and right to large mantleshelf ledge (peg). Continue right and up over small sloping ledges (nuts and a bolt) till a tree covered bank is reached. At the next wall step left onto a shallow corner (bolt) and follow up and right to large flax and bolt belay. Can be climbed as two pitches to reduce rope drag.

4. Climb straight up past two bolts then tend left to a bulge with a crack underneath. Step left past the hangered bolt and continue up, moving with difficulty past another bolt. Finish by jamming up a large crack to an airy bolt belay.

5. Named “Numb Nutties Traverse”, head left (past a poor excuse for an expansion bolt from the first ascent) around awkward bulges till a belay stance can be reached.

6. Climb up on easy sloping slabs and cracks to the summit. Although there are a number of bolts, a full rack of natural gear, especially cams, is necessary. Try and pick out the route from the carpark, as the line is not always obvious. Plenty of big wall atmosphere, especially on the higher pitches.

1. Down at the track walk left for a few metres where easy rock can be scrambled up to reach the same grassy bank as for the end of the first pitch of Green Eggs and Ham. Look for a dirty vertical crack. This is the start. Climb the crack to the cave. The original ascent used aid, but the pitch has since been freed. Scramble up and left along the tree covered ledge past steep walls until a line of least resistance becomes apparent.

2. Head up, right and up again through broken ground till the top is reached. Can be broken into two pitches to avoid rope drag. A pleasant enough climb, all on natural pro.

From behind the boulder move up into a steep fingery layback to small ledge (2½ or 3 cam). Good pro (2 cam) on the left as you get out around the arete at two-thirds height and up to belay off trees. This route may extend and complete the 1972 attempt at the same site by Pete Jemmett and Robbie McBirney, labelled Hang It.

Down and 20m left of Full Moon Fantasy is a prominent angled groove. Climb the groove and at the top, move left into a shallow depression (crux). Climb the depression to a bulging wall, make a difficult move right round the arete and up to the second bulging wall. Climb the thin crack in the wall to finish at a bolt on Trinity Slaba. Not a lot of pro.

Homeowner has installed a small fence blocking access to the base of the climb. Please do not climb this until access rights can be verified and owners permission granted.

Belay off tree

Up the wide crack on the arete. Single bolt anchor.

Easy chimney to first bolt. Thought provoking moves take you right past another bolt and around the corner to a nice arete. Go up the slab past a rusted bolt, a couple good bolts and a peg.

Two options to belay: chains or newer glue-ins a little to the right.

Cool sling thread feature on the arete

Curving crack right of It's Now Or Never. Start under tree about 6m up.

On the "Wet Entrance Wall" Th e stream disappears underground about 50m south-east of the cave dry entrance. Start on the far bank. Climb past two parallel cracks to a bulge. Move right over the bulge and direct to the top. Natural pro, tree belay.

Start at the right-hand side of the cave entrance, from the earthy ledge behind the tree. Climb the bulge, move slightly right then up through small overhangs to the top.

To the right of the cave is a tree, you can belay from this point and climb up and to the left (over the cave entrance, have your belayer watch for people coming into and out of the cave).

It's a trad climb that leads up and over the large block at the top, the belay anchors are on the back wall of the block, either loooong slings or cord is helpful to set up a top rope.

At the left hand end of the wall by the cave entrance is a large flake that juts out to the left. Climb up and behind this flake, heading right and up the natural staircase past the trees to the top.

To the left the wall degenerates to a tree-lined slope before outcropping again. Start 2m to the left of the second tree growing at the foot of the cliff . Climb to a sharp edge and large hole, then up a groove.

Climb the pointy flake that leads up to the pocketed wall above, the Crux is getting established on this. There are a few good holds but many are slopers and watch out for the moss and lichen that really make you feel you're climbing in a Jungle.

A metre to the left is an open corner with a thin crack. Climb this, then move left to finish up a waterworn groove.

The route starts at the next sizeable outcrop some 15m to the left . Climb to a small overhang below the tree with protruding flake (what!?). Move right to gain a ledge, and finish by the right-hand tree.

A corner on your right as you walk down the gully between the cliffs. Look for a large vine jammed in it. Start left of the vine (crux), then bridge up the corner.

Further down the gully on the same side as Touch and Go is an obvious short clean vertical fist crack. Climb this and the broken ground above to tree belay. Pretty pumpy but good pro placements.

On the left-hand cliff (going down the gully) facing the sea is a shallow scoop. Climb this, avoiding some loose rock at the top.

You’ll notice this right leaning crack as soon as you reach the point. The start is likely to be wet at high tide. Begs to be climbed.

A sharp but pleasant arête to work up, topping out top left. Named in honour of Langs Beach royalty.

Interesting moves at the start from the fang onto the ledge. From there a straight forward climb up the crack topping out on the right. Be careful with placements and take plasters.

Same easy slab on small wires as The Potarta, but traverse across the dish to the arete, instead of following the direct line up the flaring crack. Next, mantle up onto the shelf and finish on the shared anchor with Over the Mountain.

Easy slab on small wires, leads to a bulge with a small cam to protect the crux. Named after a mythological creature the Potarta that tickles feet and eats heads, which seemed kind of analogous to a climb with dubious gear and a slab to fall on.

Several metres back on the shelf you top out onto is the anchor to lower off.

“Ants” 9m 15 Up the recess/corner, right of ”How does it go”, step right onto block with blast hole, up a shallow scoop and short wall to the bolt, a small cam fits in the horizontal crack just above the bolt, swing right to reach the anchors. Trad, or clip the bolt. John Broadwell, Antony Ranger 09/11/2023

Head up a thinning crack then step across right to access another thin crack. Possible earlier FA unknown.

The controversial and contrived direct finish on the slabby face has been chopped.

Right facing corner crack from hand to fist to offwidth.

Climb the crack on the left side of the pillar of 'Ogopogo Strikes Back' (17). Good nut placeable from the ground saves your ankles, juggy but somewhat powerful start leads to easier ground above. Plenty of options for cams/nuts, enjoy mantling up at the top.

Start either on the left or right of the pillar (left is 18), follow the main flaring corner up & right to a very cool blast hole. Continue upwards and left to the DBC anchor (shared with Atomic Rooster).

Start up crack to the right of the slab face. First piece can be placed from the ground, second piece from first stable stance . Then go left up the slab face via bolt to place piece in horizontal crack to second bolt and DBC anchor finish.

Follow the obvious flared crack to the left of slab wall. Leads to easy run out scramble. limited protection once you get to the scramble. Double chain anchor.

Climb the blocks then pull through the steeper section to the right of the tree. Easy slab finish to the anchor. Stay left of the arête to avoid the choss and place gear in the thin crack on the left.

Start in the steep finger crack directly above the fence. Continue climbing straight up, keeping left of the large gorse bush, then traverse right at the top to the anchor set up by Christian Gamst.

Follow the crack over a small roof then finish at the anchor of Morning Coffee.

Up the easy groove and then left at the top across to the anchors.

Protection is a bit poor, might end up being bolted.

Up blocks and ledges to gain the small roof block, then jam straight up the crack.

Up the groove as for Zag, finish right past two bolts to the anchor of 'I Like Arêtes and I Cannot Lie'.

First bolt installed by unknown, climbed to anchors of dochawi by Mario Hernandez, later extended by running out to the top by Phil Higgins and Dave Ackery, Before finally having an extra bolt and anchors installed. You figure out who the FA is.

Up the groove, finish easily by escaping left past the small tree to the anchors of "Shooting in the Dark".

Don't know if this has previously been climbed?

Climb up the corner between shooting in the dark and zag, traversing left under the chossy ledge and finishing at the former's anchors. Slinging the tree while amusing, is not advised. If (and when) it goes, it will pull down most of the climb. The crack in the corner offers excellent protection, although the chossy ledge above provides food for thought. First ascent done with two offsets and a 0.5 C4 that a certain leader forgot on the ground.

Climb the slabby arete to the right of "I Do My Cleaning in the Rain", leads to a great crack on the left with plenty of placement options. Mantle onto the large ledges and protect the widening crack above to head up to the anchors. You can either stay mostly in this crack, or bridge out left so you can use the juggy edges above.

Spotted the great crack and had already cleaned the widening crack at the top so it was match made in the heavenly sun.

Climb the inwards corner to the right of "Shooting in The Dark" and left of "Climbing Cracks in the Sun". Some subtle cracks for protection down lower open to a nice wide hex size crack as you get to the crux of mantling before easier ground above. Climb moves right up the easy blocks to the anchors of "Climbing Cracks in the Sun".

Gianna and I managed to dodge the rain and climb "Shooting in The Dark" but the rain returned with a vengeance so we cleaned this route instead of climbing. Named after the a-ha version of Crying in The Rain which I heard the weekend before.

Follow the corner and crack immediately left of "Shooting in the Dark" to shared anchors.

Start to the left of "My Foot Slipped". Climb the steep crack on the left side of the pillar. Continue directly up for a few meters then step left onto a ledge below a smooth concave face. Climb a few moves up the left side of the face to reach the handrail then traverse right just above the bolt to the nose.

Top out the boulder problem then climb the sweet finger crack to an easier top section. Shares anchors with "His".

Steep bouldering start to the ledge around grade 18. Alternatively start 3m from the right then walk across the ledge around grade 16. Follow the right facing crack behind the block then climb the face to the anchor.

Climb to the anchors between "Swan Lake" and "Canadian Summer (M5)". Trad gear all the way, bouldery finish either up the crack (which is protectable with large cam/s) or the arete.

I'm still investigating a possible sport route on the left face to the anchors, needs some cleaning of the choss, don't climb this section in the meantime!

Named after Maungarei and the mokomoko (Māori for skink), there are many around the crag and the two first climbers looked like mokomoko clambering up through the crack or over the arete.

Scramble up onto the ledge beneath Canadian Summer. The first piece of protection is just to the left of the first bolt. Carry on up the corner to the double bolt belay of canadian summer. Most of the protection is small wires, specially higher up. Just ignore the bolt runners!

Climb the large blocks to the boulder and crack. Protection goes in the crack, you go to the left of the boulder - hexes and nuts work well. Traverse right to the anchors of "Sylvie’s Blast Hole".

Start below as for "Sylvie's Blast Hole", then traverse diagonally up to the anchors of A Carp Died for this.

Loose blocks have been removed, but there may still be a few more until it sees more traffic.

Start 5m R of ‘A Carp Died for this Climb’ Climb the corner with a thin crack at the back of it. Alternatively climb the corner 2m to the R. Continue directly up easier rock to the corner with yellow rock on its right. Start in the corner then move up left and continue trending slightly leftwards up the face and corner until a bolt can be seen on a smooth face to the right. Traverse past the bolt and continue upward to the anchor point below a large overhang near the top of the crag.