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Sit start on some slopy edges at the base of the prow in the middle of the overhang. Bump left hand to another slopy edge then bring RH to an average undercling, slap up to a sloper and mount the bulge. Beta vid: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Syw7wAQbUt4

The link up of Dysphoria and Utopia

A classic test-piece and the first boulder to be assigned the grade V8 in NZ. Starting 2m left of the arête, pull up and right to a narrow slot in the seam. Holding this, cross over with your left hand (crux) to the pod used on Stepping Out. Match, then make a committing move up and left to a sloper. Bring your other hand up then lunge for the top. Stay off the arête. If you avoid the cross-over, you only get 7 points. (Beta Video - https://vimeo.com/256560098)

Eliminate - See Rock Deluxe North.

Start as for Firestarter but move immediately right under the bulge on bad holds to join Green Peppers at the huge jug. Finish up this. An eliminate finish is possible staying left of the obvious seam and finishing on the spike (V9).

Climb the hanging pillar to get a quality first ascent.

The bolted line left of Defrag. Boulder to the large undercling feature. after a shake, get horizontal out left, pull the lip and truck back right to the common anchor.

Start as for Pro Series but exit as per Speed Freak.

Extension to Speed King. Start a body length back from the good flake on some obvious underclings. Make a long move overhead to the flake, match this and finish as per Speed King.

Start as per Pro Series and finish up Freak Out.

Start on the 'Fatal Discharge' rail and traverse right using a series of slopers and edges, the 'Speed Freak' jug is out. Finish up 'Speed King'

Start sitting, hands on two opposing sidepulls. Make a long move to a sloping pinch, swing feet around and then make a series of burly undercling moves to join the start of Toast.

Start as for Pumping Iron. From the double underclings, grab a large spike and make a long throw for a good edge. Swing around and finish on the adjacent boulder.

Start as per UR, but from the good edge make a large span rightwards to the small flakes. Grab the good gaston edge and mount the bulge.

Start as for Sawn Off. Climb up & right to join Frippery, probably using a gaston and other holds in the crack. Crimpy and (according to Ivan) easier for shorties

Non-eliminate version of Tyrant. Start as per but from the lefthand gaston, move right to a sloper & then again to the edge on Kash & Carry. Finish up the groove.

Sit start, spanned on some sloping pinches. Pull up and right into a large sloping sidepull then lunge for the distant narrow groove.

Sit start in the low roof on a sidepull & an undercling. Pull up right to a pinch, go left to an improbable sloper then double take to a much more probable sloper. Swing right to a jug and top out if you feel like it.

Pull on using an incut gaston and a small crimp (which is broken a little since the first ascent). Pop for the slot and exit direct or right.

Link Kashed Out, Kash Machine in reverse and Trigonometry. For extra points, if you’ve got something in the tank lunge left, reverse Inertia & finish up Inertia Direct. Pumpy!

One of the lowest problems at the Rak! Sit start on the low roof, right hand on a good edge & left hand in a shallow dish. Pull up (crux) & lunge left to a good rail. Exit up on good holds (beware the dab).

Thor’s Hammer Lite! As for that problem but finish up Tricky.

Enjoyable, beefy climbing. As for Attack but from the good lefthand sidepull, move right to a small broken edge. Wind up & huck for the lip, match (usually via a commiting toe hook) & Bob’s yer uncle.

The low prow. Sit start on a low left sidep- ull & a small sharp edge on the face. Gain an undercling in the roof, slap to a sloper on the face then grab the jug at the apex of the prow without dabbing! Exit up or along Millipede. It matters not.

Climb straight out to the lip of the cave via big moves on positive holds. Start on the block/ledge at the back of the cave.

Start as for Super Glue. Traverse right past the 4th bolt of Rubble and the 5th bolt of Gorilla Grip, to join Kaz's Project at the big rest. Finish as for this route.

Same as for Elephant Tits, but after zigging back left to the 5th bolt of Gorilla Grip, zag right again to join Kaz's Project and top out as for this route.

Starts between Gorilla Grip and Troglodyte. Climb up to the good jug at the 4th draw of Trog, then head left to join GG and finish as for that route.

The line of bolts all the way at the back of the central cave. Ascend to the 3rd draw then angle left to eventually join Gorilla Grip. Seven boulder problems between jugs.

Climb Hung Like Elvis to the pigeon pod, then continue up to the 'boobs' at the 8th bolt of Bogus and finish as for that route.

Starts at the line of bolts between Hung Like Elvis and Ride of the Valkyries. Climb to the pigeon perch. From here, follow the line of bolts that leads up and left. At the 'one jug' feature below the horizontal crack, traverse right to the 8th bolt of Bogus at the 'boobs'. Finish up Bogus.

Climb Bogus to the second kneebar (6th bolt). From here, downclimb left to the pigeon perch, go up one bolt, then traverse hard left across Kaz's to join Gorilla Grip at its 5th bolt, then finish as for that route.

Great flowing moves make this New Zealand's endurance testpiece! Starts in the central, deepest part of the cave. Climb straight up the veer left at 4th bolt. The draining start gives way to big holds. Two cruxes are placed conveniently at the very end for when you are completely pumped.

Climb Bogus to the 'boobs' at the 8th bolt. Instead of angling up and left, go up and right to finish at the Hauser anchor.

Start up Bogus but go right at the 4th bolt into the no hands rest. From here continue up and right to the lip of the cave. Was originally climbed by Alex Palman with glued holds at 29, and recently broke to become harder again.

Start as for Bogus, then above the 4th bolt traverse right, then down across Enigma to the 'hanging slab' feature. From here, diagonal up and right to finish at the Wilhelm anchors.

Classic power endurance line, and the direct start to Nosferatu. Was originally 32 but has been downgraded due to hold breakage and poor re-gluing. Follow the line of bolts just right of Space Boy, angling slight right until you reach the wet jug. From here, join Nosferatu.

Start on the vague pillar to the right of Dracula. Pull a hard boulder problem, then join Dracula at the wet jug.

Start just to the left of Let There Be Bolts. Climb up and slightly right, then join the top of Bolts at the final roof.

Start to the right of the black streak, right of Let There Be Linkups. Upon attaining the pockets about halfway up the wall, move left then back right to the Attack Mode anchor.

Start just to the right of Retrograde, move up to the pockets about halfway up the wall, then finish at the Attack Mode anchor.

Start as for Attack Mode. Ascend to the midway pockets, and traverse left to the Nosferatu anchor.

Start as for Attack Mode. Ascend to the midway pockets, then traverse left to finish at the Urge anchor.

Bouldery start leads left to good pockets, then back right with sustained climbing and some hard moves through the roof.

Sit start, hands matched in large undercling

Isaac and Alec climbed up here after some landscaping.

The full thing! From the dirt to the top! Climb 'Drop the Clutch', catch your breathe on the mega jug, then finish up 'Glass Half Empty'

Start sitting on the upper testicle, fight to get to 'Melon Balls' starting jug and keep truckin'

Sit start at the far left side of the cave with LH on a rounded edge and RH on the obvious spike. Slap up LH then move RH out to a pinch. A big heel eventually allows you to attain a good LH edge. From here, move right to finish on the jug (heinous top out optional).

The line of bolts between 'False Idol' and 'The Alter Boy', which links into the latter route below the final roof boulder problem.

Start with relative ease up the line of bolts to the right of Charismania. Climb through the roof using knee trickery to attain victory!

The rightmost route under the cave, before the angle begins to taper off. Compress the overhanging prow on small holds, then ascend the face veering left.

Risk of terrible injury!

Caution: Risk of terrible injury!

Sit start.

Slopey edges and small footholds

Big Dyno to rounded top from slopey pockets

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