Ascensioni in Oceania come Clean come trad da davedave

last pitch middle bolted into gear finish.

P1 - usual slabbing with spaced bolts/gear essentially P1 of Juliet, to right of the two DBB on the slab.

P2 - out left and up following spaced bolts supplemented by gear through steepness, followed by some more lower angle climbing with less gear than would be ideal.

Felt easier than AMJ, but was seconding so hard to say. grAId calls this 16/17.

Recent rebolt - from upper stance fresh looking U bolts, single rack of cams +120 cm sling for thread.

The usual mix of average to middling gear in the horizontal wander of the first pitch to the cave (many carrot inc. stainless GIMB with fixed hanger belay anchor) - probably worth keeping seconds low to ease rope mx.

Short second pitch out left of cave past dragons head, modern glue in bolt protected crux and up to top.

Note - accessed via abseil gully - anchor massive non-stainless industrial eye bolt and some non-stainless carrots.

Feels much more placid on the blunt end in approachies. Definately recommend the ~#1 cam slot out left rather than the nut behind marginal flake at the steepness.

TR tick (missed 'eye') hard to jam in runners

Ben chose the right hand start to keep it spicy . Just as enjoyabe the second time around, fitting last climb for the trip, sullied only by Ben shunning the bountiful cowbell placements.

So wild

Awesome hand crack system. Need to work on good hand jams to lead this one.

Pretty sure we used this route to access theory ledge

Kept on jamming to second it clean. Fucking awesome climb - could never have too many 1-3s.

Fun and games on a cool climb until the offwidth. Paid for the gain out of the offwidth chimney in sweat. Fucking awesome.

Seconded it again, Should lead it next time

? Clean, check notes.

?Climbed some ?14 near here with ADW on Saturday. Meh,.

?Climbed some ?14 near here with ADW on Saturday. Meh,.

?pretty sure we were on this

funsies

Second

Lead P1,3, mark P2, 4-5 with arete p5

Lumpy on jugs and good jams. Great 3d moves. Gear looked good.

Ended up on mix green shit and turquoise

P1 only, rap off digareedoo

P1 only

Traverse a bit goey for a 15. Probably accidentally went high and found only limited gear.

Followed Jacob up the chimney for the first time. Gear not totally unreasonable but excellent climbing

Thin moves down low lead to very reasonable climbing.

Lovely little climb

Stiff, insecure start leading to beautify cormer with a crack system on each. Kal regretted not bringing more 3/4 Camelot's.

Favourite of the day, fun vari d climbing with good gear. Extra star if getting off was easier.

What a line. Gear looked good. What's the go with the lower off ? Two bolt hangers connected to chain with snaplink allow biners ? Works I guess.

Felt a little sketchy in approach shoes. Had a crack at getting the stuck small black cam out. It's moving, just needs a bit more attention to liberate.

Difficult to protect early wide sections leads to pleasant jamming on the face, all over too soon.

A bit thin and commuting in parts.

Mega classic. Excellent gear, excellent climbing. Can rap with a 65m rope from the bolts above.

Feels at least a grade easier then jugganaught, lovely hands and fist leasing to the wide, with great rests and features to keep things reasonable. As the crack widens Craig used ball nuts and a no3 c4 before launching up the arete and over the smokestack to the chains. Three stars for sure.

Soo good. Can use small gear out left to avoid large gear.