Vie come trad in Fountain Gully

Start at base of wide crack with chockstone cap 20m to the right of 'The Lug'.

1. 15m 10 Climb crack breaking right of chockstone cap at top to good large sloping ledge.

2. 20m 11 Climb crack straddling to the top.

3. 30m 8 Climb up ridge on right of crack (now very open and bushy) and continue up over sloping bulging rock to top.

The climb follows the grey arete about 10m to the right of 'The Lug'.

1. 32m 13 Climb on right side of arete to top of large block (loose). Traverse (long stretch) 2m left and up to small ledge and piton belay.

2. 35m 15 Climb crack on left face of arete for 15m. Traverse right onto arete proper and up to ledge. Climb via left hand recess straight up to top.

The climb is situated to the right of 'The Fluted Face'.

1. 20m 17 Climb crack 4m to the right of start of 'The Fluted Face'. Climb diagonally right for 5m into a shallow yellow recess. Climb recess (lay-back) to small stance.

2. 30m 13 Follow the natural break of recess to second ledge. Traverse left to a crack. Climb crack and up to nose. Chock belay (under red overhangs)

3. 20m 11 Up to overhangs, traverse right around corner and climb face to top.

The climb is about 110m past the next walking gully to the east of the cave/fountain gully. At this point there is a section of red face which stands out from afar. Start at the base of a right-angled recess which runs up the full height of the face, with a step to the left about halfway up at a 1m square overhang.

1. 22m 15 Ascend 6m in recess. Traverse 3m right into another recess which is steeper but more broken. Ascend 8m and then move 1½ m out to right over a bulge. Continue up 3m, traverse left 1½ m and then ascend 3½ m to small piton stance.

2. 11m 16 Traverse 2m left then up on edge and around into the original recess just below the 1m square overhang. Move up just left of the overhang to a stance in a cubby hole.

3. 18m 9 Continue up recess climbing mainly on the right-hand wall. When overhang is reached traverse left 5m to ledge.

4. 12m 8 Walk 6m left, climb pleasant broken rock to top. End 2m right of 'Multitude'.

Note: This climb is on clean rock throughout.

The climb is situated 5m left of 'The Fluted Face'.

1. 15m 17 Climb shallow recess (first shallow recess left of grey face.)

2. 40m 13 Climb crack behind stance and follow natural breaks to top.

The climb starts about 90m to the right of the gully mentioned under 'The Fluted Face' and about 9m to the left of that climb.

1. 9m 10 Ascend shallow crack for 6m then traverse 6m right into bottom of chimney.

2. 12m 13 Chimney to small cubby hole about 6m below an overhang which blocks the crack.

3. 22m 9 Traverse left 9m out from under the overhang and ascend. Traverse back right over the top of the overhang to a small tree belay.

4. 15m 9 Traverse 5m right and chimney out (or climb in crack, or to right (8) on face and then into crack).

This climb is situated near the east end of the face which runs eastward from Fountain Gully. It commences at the only big tree in this vicinity, left of a big block.

1. [8] 6m

   From tree up onto block, then bearing slightly right to ledge.

2. 18m 9 Traverse left to base of recess with crack. Climb up 11m into chimney (the “Straight Jacket”) and up to big cubby hole.

3. 12m 8 Climb out left and then to top.

To the right of "Hoax Crack" there is a smooth face. In the centre of this face there is a thin crack, the start of which is marked by a short chimney with a tree at the top. The route follows the line of the crack. Start by scrambling to the foot of the chimney.

1. 35m 19 Climb the chimney for 3m to the tree. Above, the chimney narrows. Move up to a small alcove from where it is possible to reach a ledge high on the left wall. Gain the ledge with difficulty. Continue straight up the crack until the wall starts to steepen, when it is possible to move right to a tree belay.

2. 15m 8 Scramble up behind the belay to the top.

Mid-way between 'Meat Pie' and 'Nepotism' is an aloe-filled groove which runs almost the full height of the cliff being blocked at the top by a line of overhangs. This climb follows the line of the groove and moves left at the top to break through the overhangs. The climbing is elegant and follows a bold line. Start from the same ledge as for 'Meat Pie' and 'Nepotism' a few meters right of a small tree growing horizontally from under an overhang and immediately left of the groove. At 9m the groove is blocked by a small over and a prominent aloe.

1. 9m 17 Make an extremely awkward lay-back move surmount the initial overhang and continue with difficulty until the groove widens and it is possible to rest. The groove above is blocked by an overhang, so traverse out right and move up and around a corner to a good ledge. Peg belay.

2. 23m 15 From the stance move up diagonally left to gain a sloping ledge immediately left of the original groove which is blocked at this point between two large aloes. Climb straight up the wall until possible to move back in to the groove above the aloes. Continue up the groove which steepens and step out right at the top. Move up the broken wall above to a good ledge with a small tree. Peg belay.

3. 18m 13 The overhangs above look most uncompromising. However, move up to the left where there is a large pocket in the lower lip of the overhang. A stretch brings good holds within reach and a bold pull up is followed by easy climbing to the top.

There is an obvious crack to the right of the recess of 'Hoax Crack'. Start on the broad ledge at a corner beneath the crack.

1. 16m 15 Follow the line of the corner trending to the left. This becomes increasingly difficult and the last moves leading to the foot of the crack proper are awkward. It is possible to avoid these difficulties by approaching the crack from the left. Climb the crack to a good ledge and thread belay. Strenuous.

2. 22m 13 From the ledge traverse right at the same level for 7m then climb up for 3m. Traverse diagonally left until it is possible to exit through a small overhang.

1. [10] 15m

   Ascend shallow recess for 6m, then diagonally right for 6m into the bottom of a conspicuous bushy recess. Ascend about 3m in the recess.

2. 18m 10 A chimney which faces east lies up the left-hand containing wall of the recess. Ascend this chimney until a small stance with an eyehole belay on the edge of the left-hand wall is reached.

3. 15m 13 Continue in the chimney for about 3m until forced out right by closing in of the chimney. Ascend grey face on right of chimney. This leads into an aloe-filled crack which is followed to the top.

Although following the same general line as the original route, this variation is on good clean rock throughout.

1. [13] 22m

   Climb the front of the buttress immediately right of the vegetated recess taken by the original route. Follow the buttress trending left until a good ledge is reached at the bottom of the obvious recess.

2. 22m 13 Traverse left into the obvious chimney which faces east. Climb the chimney for 8m past the eye mentioned in the original description. Continue right up to the overhang until it is possible to swing left onto the arete. Follow this to the top of the crag. A steep enjoyable pitch.

Start the climb at the same spot as 'Hoax Crack'. This is below a long slotted very prominent cubby hole (centre section of face).

1. [16] 30m

   Climb crack 2m to the right below cubby hole. Traverse diagonally left into recess and climb to roof of cubby hole. Climb out left across flake into another smaller cubby hole. Chock stone belay.

2. 25m 13 Climb face diagonally right to red overhangs. Traverse left below overhangs. Up and over to block belay.

The obvious feature of the route is a red pillar of rock in the centre of the face, to the left of 'Hoax Crack'. Start in a groove to the left of this pillar beneath a prominent overhang.

1. 15m 10 Climb rib to ledge and then broken rock for 5m and then take the right or left hand crack leading to a ledge below the overhang.

2. 30m 15 Ascend crack above the stance to edge of overhang. Move delicately right across wall to corner formed by large flake. Ascend steeply up the flake and step into base of chimney crack. Climb the crack to a ceiling and move up and out right onto the wall above. Traverse right almost to the edge and climb the arete directly to the top.

On the other side of the vegetated section, right of 'Myopia', is a steep, prominent groove capped by an overhang. About 5m right of this groove is a second groove. Start up the wall immediately right of this groove.

1. 15m 11 From the ledge climb up the wall until it is possible to step into the groove. Continue until just below the overhang where there is a belay in a cubby hole.

2. 8m 15 Traverse left delicately beneath the overhang to reach a small stance on a ledge.

3. 15m 11 Climb the corner crack on the right.

4. 15m 11 Continue up bearing right to short wall beneath overhangs and climb out left to top.

About midway along the ledge the cliff lies back and is bushy and vegetated. About 5m left of this section is a steep aloe-filled groove.

1. [13] 15m

   Climb the groove for about 3m until it is possible to step right onto an arete. Follow the arete to a good ledge and belay in a corner.

2. 15m 13 Step left and move up to a good ledge beneath a wall. Climb the wall moving out right when it steepens to gain a good ledge. Traverse a few metres right to a belay in a cave-like recess.

3. 18m 11 Climb the left wall of the recess and then move up diagonally left to the top.

About midway along the ledge the cliff lies back and is bushy and vegetated. About 5m left of this section is a steep aloe-filled groove.

1. [13] X15m

   Climb the groove for about 3m until it is possible to step right onto an arete. Follow the arete to a good ledge and belay in a corner.

2. 15m 13 Step left and move up to a good ledge beneath a wall. Climb the wall moving out right when it steepens to gain a good ledge. Traverse a few metres right to a belay in a cave-like recess.

3. 25m 13 Follow the original second pitch until the move right. Instead of moving right, go through gap in overhang, then climb up on small holds to small overhang at top which is surmounted.

The main feature of the cliff above the luncheon ledge is a steep groove blocked by two overhangs.

1. [15] 20m

   Climb up the groove. At 7m there is an awkward move to reach a flake jammed in the back of the crack. Move onto the right wall and move up until directly under the first overhang. Move out right underneath a block (the Sword of Damocles) and up to gain a ledge. Chock-stone belay.

2. 25m 13 Continue steeply up the groove to the second overhang. Turn the overhang on the right using good holds and proceed to the top.

To the left of the obvious groove marking the line of the 'Sword Of Damocles' is a steep buttress. The climb ascends the buttress for about two-thirds of the height and then finishes to the left.

1. 12m 10 Climb a shallow recess bearing slightly right to a stance on a small ledge.

2. 12m 13 Ascend the face directly above the stance on small holds to a small ledge with a belay in a cubby hole. The stance is small and uncomfortable.

3. 20m 11 Climb the left wall of the cubby hole. Traverse left across vegetated ledge to corner and then move left to the top.

In the centre of the buttress is a prominent arete flanked on either side near the top by two small overhangs and undercut at the bottom by a prominent overhang. Start in a corner to the right of the bottom overhang.

1. [13] 13m

   Climb the corner for 7m to a small tree. Move right onto the arete and climb up two successive recesses to gain a good ledge. Above is the right-hand of the upper overhangs.

2. 23m 15 Move diagonally left for 7m to gain a good ledge. Climb steeply up a groove until it is blocked by the overhang. Be careful of a detached block. Move delicately left to the arete and climb this to gain the steep wall above. Move right to a recess and follow this to the top.

Climb the left-hand side of the prominent arete referred to in the description of 'Last Tango', and move to the left round the upper overhang. Start on the left of the arete.

1. 13m 9 Move up the corner to an obvious bush belay.

2. 23m 17 Climb the comer above the bush until it is possible to move out left to a ledge beneath the overhang. Above is an obvious shield shaped flake. Using the left-hand edge of the flake move up (sling used for aid on first ascent - freed by second) and then step left with difficulty to reach the corner of the overhang. Move round the corner and so move easily to the top.

Start 50m west of fence from a point just right of block against the face.

1. [8] 34m

   Up slightly overhanging bottomless recess for 4m then right 12m to tree and from tree diagonally left to big ledge.

2. 28m 11 Start 3m left of two huge blocks one on top of the other. Up crack for 12m then left to tree. From tree up a few meters and then further left for 6m to stance next to tree.

3. 30m 9 Straight up from tree and then bear left following the line of least resistance to the top.

To the left of the second pitch of 'Pinocchio' is a steep face.

1. 15m 15 Climb the face and crack system up this face.

From the meet site (cave), walk leftwards to the steep buttress about 50m west of the fence. The climb starts 10m to the left of 'Pinocchio'.

1. 20m 19 Climb up the break in the middle of the face. Where the crack steepens, swing left and continue up to a ledge.

2. 10m 13 From the right hand side of the ledge, fight your way through the bush to a large ledge.

3. 20m 17 Move leftwards on the ledge to below an obvious recess crack. Climb this to a good ledge on the right with a crack and overhang above.

4. 10m 18 Climb the steep crack and overhang above.

Note: Superb route with good protection.

Start left of 'Pinocchio' just short of the first steep narrow grassy gully approximately 80 normal paces from the fence which abuts the crags.

1. 18m 10 3m right of the above grassy gully, climb the grey face for 8m and enter an undercut recess. Climb up to the broad grassy shelf. Walk 10m left to a pillar with bushes at its foot (crossing 'Bonzo' en route).

2. 18m 9 Climb crack to right of pillar to a stance alongside a pile of precariously poised blocks on top of pillar.

3. 12m 13 Climb 2m to brown overhangs above and make an airy move left to an eroded incut ledge. Traverse left for 4m and climb overhanging short fault to the top (crux).

Start left of 'Pinocchio' at the first steep narrow grassy gully approximately 90 normal paces from the fence which abuts the crags.

1. 18m 10 Climb the steep arete just left of the grassy gully. Emerge on a grassy ledge. (At this point the climb crosses 'Phydeaux'.)

2. 20m 10 Directly above is a whitish face to the right of a rusty patch of rock. Climb the face to a stance just below the row of small overhangs bisecting the buttress.

3. 5m 13 To the right are two series of small stepped overhangs, one above and one below, divided by a slab. Climb 2m up a brown crack and swing across the slab on good handholds but poor footholds to a tree on a stance common to 'Pinocchio'.

4. 20m 9 Climb up and left, avoiding the last pitch of 'Pinocchio' (if you want to).

Note: A clean route, possibly the longest in the area.

The climb starts in a high narrow cave 30 metres short of the first clump of trees on Fountain Gully West. Start right of 'Aloe Alley'. The climb crosses 'Aloe Alley' at the top of the first pitch.

1. 18m 10 Climb 5m to roof of cave and through small opening on to small ledges. Step right on to face and traverse 4m right. Climb into small aloe-filled recess, traverse 2m left to narrow gully. Squeeze through hole to stance on top of buttress.

2. 19m 11 Climb 5m up bulging rock face on sloping holds to sloping chimney / recess. Traverse 6m left under overhang past tree to platform. Make strenuous moves 3½ m past aloe into narrow recess. Climb 5m to stance at blocks in corner with 2 small windows in rock.

3. 23m 9 Traverse 9m diagonally left round corner. Scramble 9m up gully then 5m up blocks to top.

The climb commences at the base of a large grey block jutting from the krantz about 150m left of the foot of Saddle Gully, and generally follows the line of a broken ridge.

1. [9] 12m

   Climb on the outside of the block to stance on top of it.

2. 12m 9 Climb recess behind stance and traverse right below an overhang at the top of the recess on to a bushy stance below an aloe filled recess.

3. 22m 8 Up recess through a group of aloes bearing left on to crest of ridge, reaching a large stance by an awkward pull-up.

4. 9m 8 Climb steep recess behind stance.

Starts on a ridge to left of grass-strewn broken face, at top of krantz and on right of a series of overhanging red faces. This is about 18m to left of 'Aloe Alley'.

1. 18m 9 Up a small gully to base of a face about 5m high, thence up face to grass ledge. From here a longer face immediately above is climbed and a traverse to the left at the top of this leads to a stance enclosed by bushes to right of a red rock ridge.

2. 18m 9 Through bushes around corner to left of ridge then up to a stance below large.

3. 22m 11 To left from stance below rock. This leads to a crack or cubby hole up which the climb proceeds to the summit. Variation: (10) Ascend the face on the left side of the ridge. When this face becomes steeper about two-thirds way up, traverse right just around the edge of the ridge. The traverse entails a slightly awkward descending move. This brings one to the original route.

To the right of 'Gringo Face' is a red face capped by a large overhang. The route goes up the centre of the face and then traverses to the right edge to avoid the upper overhang. The face above is then climbed to the top of the cliff. Start immediately below the overhang. Scramble up to an alcove in the centre of the face.

1. 20m 17 Climb 8m up a pillar of perched blocks on the left of the alcove to reach a ledge under a small overhang. Traverse right 12m to the arete on the skyline. Awkward and poorly protected. Climb the arete for a few meters and then move right to a ledge and belay.

2. 30m 11 Continue diagonally up the left to the top of the cliff.

Start about 7m to the right of the start of 'Gringo Face' beneath the prominent red overhang.

1. 20m 10 Straight up the wall to belay beneath the overhang.

2. 35m 15 The overhang above is split on the left by a prominent break. This break is just to the right of the wall pitch of 'Gringo Face'. Move across left to gain a steep rib leading to the foot of the break. The rock here requires care. Climb the groove until it is possible to step right onto the face above the overhangs. Climb the face until it is possible to traverse right to reach the ramp of vegetation running down from the summit. The last move is awkward. Scramble up the vegetation and rock to the top.

The route starts in a clump of trees, just opposite the first big tree.

1. [8] 18m

   Straight up for 15m, then traverse right to recess with two small chockstones in crack.

2. 15m 8 Up a few meters, climb right around a corner, then up over block to recess. Up recess to big stance in cave-like chimney.

3. 15m 10 Ascend a few meters in cave and then left out onto exposed face. Move up diagonally left to comfortable stance below recessed chimney which provides a break through the overhangs.

4. 18m 9 Up recess for 6m and then, to avoid bush above, step across to the left onto face. Up face to top.

1. [11] 30m Start below large whitish face. Ascend right-hand recess and traverse back over left one. Ascend straight up face following slight crack line, moving left at the top to stance at break in overhangs.

Start approximately 10m left of 'Gringo Face' in a well-defined corner.

1. 20m 17 Climb the corner to a roof, then climb up diagonally either left or right to a good ledge. The left ascent is far more pleasing (climbing on jugs).

2. 20m 13 Move slightly left along ledge and ascend a short steep section of rock. Continue up a ridge to top.

1. [8] 22m

   Scramble at first up lower part of recess then climb recess and face on left.

2. 25m 8 Up broken rib to overhangs.

3. 6m 8 Traverse right into a recess with tree below overhang.

4. 25m 10 Ascend recess for 5m to the overhang, then traverse left onto a face and into a slot (the Post Box). Climb through the slit and continue up the face above the slit.

Several variations are possible, e.g.

1. [8] 22m

   Instead of first pitch start to the left of the trees. Climb a crack for 11m until it becomes a chimney. Pass behind chockstone to stance.

2. 30m 8 Instead of second and third pitches described above, go first slightly left up recess and then up and slightly right into recess which ends at the tree below the overhang.

3. original

4. 10 From the tree below the overhang, continue the easy traverse to the right for about 6m. Ascend a break through the overhang, starting with an awkward pull-up to the right. Rather nondescript climbing above this point leads to the top.

The start is situated about midway between two large patches of trees and bush at the top of the slope. To the left is a series of red overhanging faces.

1. [6] 10m

   Scramble up amongst loose rock and grass to tree at foot of obvious crack.

2. ?m 8 Ascend crack and climbing out on left onto slab ending in a recess under small overhang.

3. ?m 8 Climb recess ending on top of small pinnacle on right.

4. ?m 8 Scramble up large ledge past cave and traverse to the right to a red slab.

5. ?m 8 Climb slab, then traverse left to some bushes.

6. ?m 8 Climb from bush, then traverse right to short recess leading to the top.

Note: Pitches may be combined and variations made. A direct finish may be climbed instead of traversing right.

The climb lies between 'The Wilderness' and 'Serendipity'.

1. 18m 8 Ascend on rather loose rock up a vague recess until one can traverse right into crack.

2. 18m 10 Climb out to right - a short easy section. Then climb a small steep red face (alternative is to enter gully on right from a lower level 8). Traverse right into the crack or gully referred under alternative. Medium-sized tree belay.

3. 15m 9 Climb steep wall on right of gully, then up easy broken rock. Finish on 3m lichen covered face.

The climb is situated 30m left of the tallest tree in the second clump of bushes to the west of Fountain Gully. The start is marked by a narrow cave at the base of a ridge with a significant bulge about 15m up. The ridge is actually a pinnacle leaning again the face.

1. [9] 22m

   Ascend the left side of the ridge 12m and the remaining 9m on the ridge itself to a good stance on the right side where there is a large hole through the ridge.

2. 18m 10 Traverse back onto ridge and continue straight up to a small overhang.

3. 25m 10 Climb overhang, moving slightly to the left and continue over easy rock to the top.

Notes:

1. The overhang can be avoided by moving to left or right of direct route. The left route was graded 8.

2. ‘Serendipity’ means finding something different from that being looked for.

To the left of the usual climbing area there is a very prominent slab half-way up the cliff. The route leads up to the slab, ascends its left hand edge and then finishes up the groove above. Start to the right of the buttress below the slab.

1. [13] 15m

   Climb diagonally up to the left to a large ledge and belay below the slab.

2. 15m 13 Climb the slab. Belay at top of slab on chocks.

3. 15m 10 From stance move left up to a small cave and then up the groove above.