Other Kingdom 13

The route starts to the right of 'Tweedledum' in a prominent but shallow cleft about 3m wide in the rock distinguished by a black streak running up its inside.

1. 12m 13 Vertically up the cleft below a slight overhang then at 4m up traverse left 3m. Work straight up the ridge for a further 5m to a ledge 60cm wide. Traverse right 5m to ledge. (This ledge is 6m to the right of the start of the climb.)

2. 9m 10 Straight up, to the left of a clump of aloes vertically above and to the right of a larger clump of aloes (5m x 2m). About 8m up is a small sloping ledge just above the larger clump of aloes, and 1 ½ m further up to the right is a flat-topped projecting rock providing the second stance.

3. 12m 8 Traverse right beneath an overhanging rock, then proceed up a ridge slightly inclined to the right and facing the ridge immediately above the overhang. The next belay position is on a sloping ledge immediately below a jagged series of overhangs interspersed with aloes.

4. 30m 8 Scramble through grass-tufted ledges.

No fire allowed as per “No Fires in Magaliesberg Policy”. There is currently a moratorium on bolting in Magaliesberg.