Grado | Via | Stile equipaggiamento | Qualità | Arrampicatore | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Sab 1 Giu 2024 - Foradá | |||||||
Cara Sur Cresta de la Foradà | |||||||
4 | ★★ Cresta de la Foradà | 300m | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
Cresta muy bonita, con un paso un poco aereo pero con buenas presas. Conviene llevar friends y/o fisureros. El paso mas aereo si tiene chapas y hay algunas reuniones y cordinos para asegurar durante la cresta. En teoria hay dos rapeles de salida pero solo encontramos uno.
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Ven 31 Mag 2024 - Guadalest & Abdet | |||||||
Guadalest Penya Maura Cara Oeste | |||||||
6a+ | ★★ Cornicabra | ||||||
6A+ seems right (not 5c like UKC). Crux is getting over the bugle out of the cave. After marching on the jug, I messed up the sequence a few times and fell. Beta that worked for me was to go wide left with left hand first, then right sidepull (it’s tempting to try this right than left, or go to the sidepull with the left, but neither worked for me).
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5+ Facile | ★★ La soplá | 19m | |||||
Not quite clear what the route is. If you go vertically from where “La Soplá” is painting on the rock then this is easier than 5+. However UKC suggest La Soplá traverses right, and the direct route is some other route. I didn’t try the route traversing right!
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Mar 28 Mag 2024 - Sella | |||||||
La Moleta Competición | |||||||
6a+ | ★★ El gran Coscorrón | 22m, 10 | |||||
When too far right at the crux and ended up on the next route. Had to bail with a maillon
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Dom 19 Mag 2024 - Sella | |||||||
La Moleta Ojo de Odra | |||||||
5b | ★★ Necedad Navidad - con Dori Siraly | 16m | |||||
Through the hole, to the other side. The hardest move is right below the anchor.
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Ven 3 Mag 2024 - Llíber | |||||||
Sector Oeste | |||||||
6c+ ~6b | ★★ El Cuenta Cuentos | 20m | ★★★ Classica | ||||
Oben schon etwas psycho und aufgrund der Länge nicht so easy durchzusteigen, wenn man bei 6a+/6b an seinem Limit klettert.
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6b ~6c | ★ Caprichosa | 20m | Media | ||||
War bestimmt mal einfacher, ich fand sie recht poliert.
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Dom 21 Apr 2024 - Puig Campana | |||||||
Cara Sudoeste | |||||||
4+ ~5+ | ★★★ Arista Aristóteles-Cresta Pepsi | 300m | |||||
Variante 5+
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Dom 14 Apr 2024 - Guadalest & Abdet | |||||||
Guadalest Penya l'Alcala | |||||||
5a ~6a | Saltando al agua | 25m | |||||
If I got the correct line (immediately to the left of Maulets a al Lluita, first bolt on an overhang) then this is a lot harder than 5a. It’s at least 5c, probably 6a and felt harder than some other 6as at this crag (eg. It’s a lot harder than Tirant lo Blanc).
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Mer 3 Apr 2024 - Sierra de Toix | |||||||
Toix Oeste | |||||||
5+ | ★ Del Pas | 110m | ★ Buona | ||||
The first pitch is not fully bolted and there are a few run out sessions. The rock is a lot better than in the neighbour Red Route as it’s not polished at all. 5+ is hard for the grade if you climb the upper slab following the line of bolts.
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5+ Dura | ★★ Red Route 2 | 58m | ★ Buona | ||||
I slipped and fell two thirds up the route, polished in some places and bolts are sometimes a bit distant. In the guidebook it’s marked as a 5 which is a sandbag
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Mer 3 Apr 2024 - Sierra de Toix | |||||||
Toix Lejano Oeste | |||||||
5 Facile | ★ La roja tres | 20m | ★ Buona | ||||
Well bolted
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6a+ | ★★ Energico | ★★ Molto buona | |||||
Bolting in the upper part a bit strange. Route is fun and on good holds all the way up.
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Sab 30 Mar 2024 - Sierra de Toix | |||||||
Toix Lejano Oeste | |||||||
5+ | ★★ Presto | 16m | |||||
High fourth bolt. Crux between second and third bolt.
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5 | ★ La roja tres | 20m | |||||
Nice route but pretty polished...
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Sab 30 Mar 2024 - Sierra de Toix | |||||||
Toix TV - Tropical Dreams | |||||||
6a | ★★ Atlantis | 23m | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
Quite nice, one crimpy move on the higher slab.
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6a | ★ Seduction | 22m | ★ Buona | ||||
The easiest of the four 6A I climbed here. OK route
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5 Dura | ★★ Gufelwufel | 22m | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
Bit hard for the grade
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6a | ★★ Dear Renate | 22m | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
One tricky move where good footwork was required
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6a | ★★★ Tropical Dreams | 22m | |||||
Nice route, first bolt very high. A bit hard for the grade.
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Ven 29 Mar 2024 - Alcoy | |||||||
Baseta del Preventorio | |||||||
6c Facile | ★★ Hot Rise | 11m, 5 | |||||
Via muy a bloque
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Mer 27 Mar 2024 - Alcoy | |||||||
Barranquet de Ferry Sector Paret Dreta | |||||||
5+ | ★★ Variant Xulo | 14m, 7 | ★★★ Classica | ||||
Estan todas tan juntas k no sabes lo k si o lo k no puedes coger. Aun asi muy buenos los quintos
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Mer 27 Mar 2024 - Alcoy | |||||||
Barranquet de Ferry Sector Paret Esquerra | |||||||
6a+ | ★★★ Recogiendo coños en un bosque de Madroños | 17m, 7 | ★★★ Classica | ||||
Algun pasito que para bajitos sale mas de 6a+ seguro. Muy buena, bastante continua
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6a | ★★★ Acapulco | 17m, 8 | ★★★ Classica | ||||
Un poco lavada pero de mucha calidad la via
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Mar 26 Mar 2024 - Sella | |||||||
La Moleta Competición | |||||||
6b | ★ Nido de Piratas | 22m, 12 | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
Tensa pero muy divertida 😊😊
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Lun 18 Mar 2024 - Elda / Petrer | |||||||
Cueva de Marín | |||||||
3+ | ★ Aventuras en pañales | 20m | |||||
Abby followed on TR
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Lun 11 Mar 2024 - Orihuela | |||||||
Rincón de Bonanza Pared del Eiger | |||||||
5+ | Efecto Invernadero | 260m | Media | ||||
cactuses...
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Dom 10 Mar 2024 - Foradá | |||||||
Cara Sur Petorri | |||||||
5 | ★★ Bon dia | 14m | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
Con un par de agarres llenos de agua por la lluvia pero bien
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Ven 8 Mar 2024 - Pego | |||||||
Placa del Sol | |||||||
6c | ★★ La fila de ta tia - con Isa | 25m | |||||
Crux felt hard. Not really sure I found the proper sequence. It seemed like you can reach the good pocket high up with the right hand if you place the feet high and twist sideways.
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Ven 8 Mar 2024 - Pego | |||||||
Iniciació | |||||||
5c | ★ Ximet - con Isa | 12m, 6 | ★ Buona | ||||
A bit polished already
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Lun 26 Feb 2024 - Guadalest & Abdet | |||||||
Guadalest Penya l'Alcala | |||||||
6b | ★★ Depredació urbanística - con bertrand | 17m | ★ Buona | ||||
On the right after the roof. If you go left, it's 5c.
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Dom 25 Feb 2024 - Sella | |||||||
La Moleta Solo | |||||||
6a | ★★ Han | 20m | ★ Buona | ||||
There's a big rock that is likely to fall mid way. A big x on it.
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Sab 24 Feb 2024 - Puig Campana | |||||||
Central | |||||||
6a+ | ★★★ Diada del País Valencià - con Alfredo | 300m | ★★★ Classica | ||||
Salida por la vía Europa
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Sab 17 Feb 2024 - Coves Roges | |||||||
5c | Riendas sueltas | 15m | |||||
Cruxy
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6b+ | La cachonda | 10m | |||||
Technical
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Gio 15 Feb 2024 - Jávea | |||||||
Canelobres | |||||||
7a | ★★★ E.C.M. | ★★ Molto buona | |||||
New route on the left sector. Buckles at the start. There is a signed name. I dont't know the autor and the proposed difficultes.
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Dom 11 Feb 2024 - Coves Roges | |||||||
6a | SCE 1 | 15m | |||||
Vertical
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6b+ | ★ Pajaros de hierro | 7m | |||||
Athletic
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6a+ | KAO 1 | 15m | |||||
Vertical
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7a | ★★★ Sin mas ni menos | 15m | |||||
Athletic
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Sab 10 Feb 2024 - Coves Roges | |||||||
6a | La Fisura Loca | 10m | |||||
Technical
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Gio 8 Feb 2024 - Llíber | |||||||
Sector Oeste | |||||||
6c | ★★ Muévete como un huracán | 18m | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
was really good exercise for me to climb the intense beginning while maintaining deep breathing and continuous moving. and then beautiful slab as a reward on top!
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6a ~6b | ★★ El paso del diente | 20m, 13 | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
I hated this route when I did it. Felt like hardest 6a I’ve ever done.
So awkward, I had to do some kind of weird caterpillar move to get over the roof.
Now on reflection it was pretty hilarious new learning experience. Bolting is great for that !
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Mer 7 Feb 2024 - Cocentaina | |||||||
Mas de la Penya Sector 3 | |||||||
6c | ★★ Por Tutatis | 35m | |||||
More jugs in one route than in a whole year in Belgium.
Soft |
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Mer 7 Feb 2024 - Cocentaina | |||||||
Mas de la Penya Sector 1 | |||||||
6c | ★★★ Ultims pases | 37m, 18 | |||||
Generous beautiful pillar. So much climbing in this one. Thanks Kiki.
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Mer 7 Feb 2024 - Cocentaina | |||||||
Mas de la Penya Sector 3 | |||||||
7a+ | ★★★ Mora | 32m | |||||
MAGNIFICENT. Blobby flake/dihedral that goes on for 35m. Felt mean in the scorching sun, having to put in 17 draws. Once over, I felt like I ran a 15km comp with a sprint right before the finish. Probably took as long. Skyhigh wall in a sacred place, full of life.
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Mar 6 Feb 2024 - Alcalali | |||||||
Main | |||||||
6b | Ecopoint ★★ Yoga vertical | 39m | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
did this climb because of the name. turned out to be way more demanding than expected. Beginning sequence was very nice, but the bulge was way too committing for me. Almost had to get into the split to reach the good hold (I’m sure there is another way to do it). After overcoming this still had to deal with run outs and pretty heavy drag. Sadly did not raise to the challenge to finish last few quickdraws of this climb.
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6a+ | Ecopoint ★★ Stahlgewitter | 25m | ★★★ Classica | ||||
wow, this climb was another challenge in steepness for me! Glad I trusted the process & didn’t freak out from the overhang good holds are there!
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Lun 5 Feb 2024 - Llíber | |||||||
Sector Oeste | |||||||
6a+ | ★★ La Llibertina | 20m, 13 | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
this route was my personal nemesis at this crag 😁 steep & need to move fast, which are good challenges for me. + keep it together fear wise on the top. love that I’ve finally done it
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Mer 31 Gen 2024 - Sella | |||||||
El Goleró Wild Side | |||||||
7c | ★★ La Hora De Millau | 26m, 10 | ★★★ Classica | ||||
Awesome tufa knee bar start
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Mar 30 Gen 2024 - Sella | |||||||
El Goleró Wild Side | |||||||
7b+ | ★★ Free Ruescas | ★★ Molto buona | |||||
A newer route on the far left side, next line to the left is still a project.
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Dom 21 Gen 2024 - Redován | |||||||
El Rut | |||||||
6a+ ~6c+ | Burriman - con Hector | 26m | |||||
Esta vía es un 6c+, lo pone en la guía y también está escrito en la pared
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Dom 21 Gen 2024 - Sella | |||||||
El Goleró Wild Side | |||||||
7c | ★★ La Casa De Los Tullidos — 2 tentativi | 25m | ★ Buona | ||||
Variant to the right, goes at 7b+
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Mer 17 Gen 2024 - Llíber | |||||||
Sector Oeste | |||||||
7b | ★★ La bella — 2 tentativi | 16m | |||||
Second go, with plenty of beta from friends. Mega climb
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Lun 15 Gen 2024 - Llíber | |||||||
Riverbed | |||||||
6a | ★★ Mi Casa | 12m | |||||
happy falls training. lovely bolting !
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5 | ★★★ Awesome! | 17m | ★★★ Classica | ||||
I wish every warm up was like this, and double as long!
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Lun 15 Gen 2024 - Castellet De Calp | |||||||
Central Wall | |||||||
7b | ★★★ Perfect 10 | 45m | |||||
So close to the onsight, one fall on a tricky move. Would come back to it.
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Dom 14 Gen 2024 - Pedreguer | |||||||
Font d'Aixa Principal | |||||||
5c ~6a+ | ★ Las zapatelles des pastor | 21m | |||||
Es una vía con una lectura un tanto difícil como para ser un 5c, pues en el mismo sector hay un 6a+ con una dificultad parecida.
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Dom 14 Gen 2024 - Alcalali | |||||||
Main | |||||||
7a+/b | Heaven Can’t Wait | 26m | |||||
Think I did the 7a+ variation - start right of the cave and finish up right.
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Sab 13 Gen 2024 - Llíber | |||||||
Sector Oeste | |||||||
5+ | ★ Through the Magic Window | 25m | ★ Buona | ||||
Not today (on lead). Bolt / potential of fall at the overhang really spooked me
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Dom 7 Gen 2024 - Sella | |||||||
El Goleró Wild Side | |||||||
7b+ | ★★ Nido Amoroso — 3 tentativi - con Kristian | 20m, 7 | |||||
The variation to the right, I guess that’s the 7b+. Feels like the more natural way.
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Dom 7 Gen 2024 - Sierra de Toix | |||||||
Toix Placa - Upper | |||||||
5 | ★★ Johanna | 28m | Media | ||||
Semiequipada con cordinos/cuerdas en puentes de roca, algunas con el alma a vista. Alejes estilo tapia
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Dom 7 Gen 2024 - Sierra de Toix | |||||||
Toix Lejano Oeste | |||||||
6a+ | ★★ Energico — 2 tentativi | ★★★ Classica | |||||
Desplome guapísimo, paso con aleje en las dos última chapas
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6a+ | ★★ Energico | ★★★ Classica | |||||
Desplome guapísimo, paso con aleje en las dos última chapas
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Sab 6 Gen 2024 - Alcalali | |||||||
Main | |||||||
7a+ | No name 2 | 30m | Pessima | ||||
Felt like a squeeze job TBH
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Ven 5 Gen 2024 - Sierra de Toix | |||||||
Toix Lejano Oeste | |||||||
6c | ★★ The Whole of Creation | 16m | Orrenda | ||||
Roca lavadisima, muchas presas ya no se pueden ni tocar, y chapas muy antiguas y bastante alejadas
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6b | ★ Help for Heros | 15m | ★ Buona | ||||
Puede ser un 6b si se pasa muy recto, si vas hacia la derecha es bastante más facil. Raya un poco que la via de al lado tenga 8 chapas y esta dos, se vee muy antigua
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Ven 5 Gen 2024 - Redován | |||||||
La Pancha | |||||||
7b | ★★★ La Roja — 3 tentativi | ||||||
En el segundo he perdonado llegando a la chorrera 🤦🏻♂️
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Ven 5 Gen 2024 - Alcoy | |||||||
Barranc del Cint Camí Camí 1 | |||||||
6c+ | ★★ Tobias | 20m, 7 | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
Second go.
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6b+ | Eibar | Media | |||||
Okay route but a little sketchy rock quality.
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Gio 4 Gen 2024 - Cocentaina | |||||||
Mas de la Penya Sector 1 | |||||||
6c ~6c+ | ★★★ La Xunga | 25m | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
6c+ in new rockfax guidebook
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Gio 4 Gen 2024 - Sierra de Toix | |||||||
Pirates of the Caribbean | |||||||
6a+ ~6b | ★★★ Parle | 50m | ★★★ Classica | ||||
Spectacular route. The rock feels greasy due to humidity and the polish. Last pitch is 6b, unless you find the easy way🤣
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Mer 3 Gen 2024 - Peñón de Ifach | |||||||
South Face | |||||||
6c ~6c |
★★ Costa Miserables
1
3
2
6b
Bloc patinée
3
6b
4
6a
5
6c
Archi patinée
6
3
Passé par Costa Blanca puis traversée
7
6b
| 200m | ★ Buona | ||||
Patinée
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Mer 3 Gen 2024 - Penya Roc | |||||||
Haunted Wall | |||||||
6b ~6b+ |
★★★ Craks of Tranquility
1
6a+
2
6a
3
5
4
6b
5
2
6
6a
| 180m | ★★★ Mega Classica | ||||
El cuarto largo es de lo mejorcito que he escalado, eso sí, 6b...
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Mer 3 Gen 2024 - Cocentaina | |||||||
Mas de la Penya Sector 3 | |||||||
7a+ | ★★★ Mora | 32m | ★★★ Mega Classica | ||||
Great route!
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7a+ | ★★★ Leo Stark — 2 tentativi | 30m | ★★★ Classica | ||||
Second go. Intense and physical start, but so long and nice overall!
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Mer 3 Gen 2024 - Cocentaina | |||||||
Mas de la Penya Sector 2 | |||||||
7a | ★★★ Demoliciones Bin Lader — 2 tentativi | 35m | |||||
Second go. Failed early on the onsight, and lowered down. Then did the whole day route on second try.
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Mer 3 Gen 2024 - Cocentaina | |||||||
Mas de la Penya Sector 1 | |||||||
6c | ★★★ La Xunga | 25m | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
Very polished footholds in the start.
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Mar 2 Gen 2024 - Sierra de Toix | |||||||
Pirates of the Caribbean | |||||||
6a+ |
★★★ Parle
1
6a
2
6a
Expo
3
6a+
| 50m | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
Pittoresque
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Mar 2 Gen 2024 - Ponoig | |||||||
Hadas | |||||||
6c+ A0 | ★★ Cocidito Madrileño | 220m | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
Sin encadenar el 7b. En A0 con buenos bloqueos se arregla todo.
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Mar 2 Gen 2024 - Sierra de Toix | |||||||
Toix Placa - Upper | |||||||
6b+ Facile | ★★ Thalia | 20m | |||||
First 2 clips are scarry, rest is like 6a.
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Mar 2 Gen 2024 - Peñón de Ifach | |||||||
South Face | |||||||
6b+ |
★★ Same
1
4+
30m
2
6b+
35m
3
5+
20m
4
3
40m
5
6a+
35m
6
5+
15m
7
5
40m
| 220m | Media | ||||
Poor quality of the rock, average route. Definitely sandbag, especially the 5th pitch, few bolts...a route you might enjoy if you are into crawling through chimneys and tunnels. Hang your backpack on the harness on the the second pitch, or you'll get stuck. In fact, everything will get stuck at some point...your backpack, your helmet, your friends )
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Mar 2 Gen 2024 - Redován | |||||||
La Pancha | |||||||
6a | ★★ Dayana — 2 tentativi | 25m, 7 | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
muy facil el cuarto a primera reu, y después un bloque que me costó a la primera poniendo cintas por pura colocación de cuerpo
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5b | ★ Compare | 20m | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
muy muy bonita, también durilla de coco, mucho magnesio que a veces ayuda y otras te hace confundirte
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6a ~6a+ | ★★ Ainara | 20m | ★★★ Classica | ||||
Desde abajo parece más asequible, pero arriba te va apretando sobretodo el coco jejeje VIOTE
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Lun 1 Gen 2024 - Sierra de Toix | |||||||
Toix Oeste | |||||||
5+ |
★ Del Pas
1
2
3
| 110m | |||||
First pitch is 6a/6a+ with some runouts. Third belay is somewhere right and under the last pitch of Cilber. The line of the last pitch is quite unclear, on the right of Cilber, not left as shown in the guidebooks, therefore we chose to climb the last pitch of Cilber.
|
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Lun 1 Gen 2024 - Sierra de Toix | |||||||
Toix Placa - Lower | |||||||
5c | ★★ Ivan Murciano | 150m | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
|
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5 | ★★ Ruwa | 160m | |||||
|
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Lun 1 Gen 2024 - Cocentaina | |||||||
Mas de la Penya Sector 4 | |||||||
7b Dura | ★★★ Chezarra Project | 37m | ★★★ Classica | ||||
Wow, a cracker! Fun reachy start, then it doesn't let up right to the anchors. Steeply jugs then crimpy face climbing. Didn't quite get the tick but favourite climb of the crag, which is saying something!
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Lun 1 Gen 2024 - Cocentaina | |||||||
Mas de la Penya Sector 1 | |||||||
6c | ★★★ Últimes passes | 37m, 18 | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
I felt so smooth climbing this, feeling like I was feeling strong as, until I reached the crux at the top! Take a few more draws than you might think
|
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Dom 31 Dic 2023 - Cumbre del Sol | |||||||
Morro Falquí | |||||||
6a+ | ★★★ Sonjannika | 170m, 12 | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
|
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Dom 31 Dic 2023 - Cocentaina | |||||||
Mas de la Penya Sector 2 | |||||||
7a+ | ★★★ El Legado de Diablo - con Evelyn Livermore | 30m | |||||
Second go
|
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Dom 31 Dic 2023 - Sella | |||||||
La Moleta Ojo de Odra | |||||||
7b Facile | ★★★ Kamikaze — 2 tentativi | 25m, 12 | ★★★ Classica | ||||
Couldn't figure out the crux on the OS. Sent next go. On the soft side of 7b.
|
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Sab 30 Dic 2023 - Cocentaina | |||||||
Mas de la Penya Sector 3 | |||||||
7a+ | ★★★ Mora — 2 tentativi | 32m | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
Sarah onsighted! What a beast
|
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7b | 2 vascos muy vascos — 2 tentativi | 27m | |||||
Second go, and a bit of a fluke but ill take it! There's a very poorly placed bolt out of reach during the crux, so good thing I went up with a sling and extended the bolt above
|
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7b+ | Variant Sirful | 35m | |||||
First 7B+, and only third go! Fun techy crux down low followed by another after a good rest at half height. I'm glad I'm so good at memorising beta
|
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6c+ Dura | ★★ Demolition Man | 35m | |||||
Hard start! And then jugs but not too good afterwards, so you keep up the pump the whole way. Great route! Second try, got lowered as soon as I feel at the last move of the hard face
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Ven 29 Dic 2023 - Alcoy | |||||||
Pic Castellar Cara Nord | |||||||
7b | ★★ Escaladores de número - con Evelyn Livermore | ★★ Molto buona | |||||
Second go.
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Ven 29 Dic 2023 - Guadalest & Abdet | |||||||
Guadalest Penya l'Alcala | |||||||
6a+ Facile | Coses de Tubo | 60m, 14 | Media | ||||
Meh. Not that good.
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Ven 29 Dic 2023 - Alcoy | |||||||
Pic Castellar Cara Nord | |||||||
6b+ | ★★★ Sonia - con Evelyn Livermore | 60m | ★★★ Classica | ||||
Very nice and long! Did both pitches, with a break at the first anchor to the get my belayer up there.
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