Ascensioni in Fire

Bailed above the second 6c pitch due to fading laylight.

Big day out! Super long route with some pretty subpar rock quality in a lot of areas. Started climbing at 0930 - finished at 1730. Would recommend Galletas over this route, definitely better rock quality x though this route is better protected. However, still is a good day out! Aided through the harder pitches to speed up time, took a decent fall on second due to holds been pulled out of the wall.

Mega-Classic line. Definitely one of my biggest days I’ve had on a wall. Some beta for those going for it, the chimney pitches are pretty bold and will only have 2 or 3 bolts over 30-50m supplemented with old threads. I’d recommend bringing more slings for others attempting to replace these threads. The final chimney pitch has had its hangers removed and only the studs are remaining, this pitch, is combined and is about 50m, pretty spooky pitch!

Overall mega line! We just did this in the middle of January and it wasn’t too cold. Absolutely classic, exposed, sustained, and adventurous!

Great route, but felt a bit easier than la murciana. Led al the odd pitches, including both 6c. Second 6c definitely a bit harder than the first one.

Alpine route. Take several topo (croquis) from it. Take a good picture of the face. Route finding is pretty difficult and you can end up in dead end easily. Few long traverses. Start early. Really nice though

With direct start (As Cimas, V), topped out left on Punta Mateo (V) – good choices. Ran it out in 6 pitches on a single 70. [“270m in 4p on a 60”, seriously? 70m is enough to link any 2 pitches and for the abseil, a 60 wouldn’t be.] Brought some cams, but wouldn’t have felt very different without them. Lovely varied climb, great views, some wild situations, close encounters with vultures. Difficulties short-lived and aidable. A lot of it is in the shade. Three stars definitely not for loose rock (of course it’s Riglos so there will be falling rocks), but for quality!

https://verticalpirate-escalade.com/topos-escalade/espagne/los-mallos-de-riglos/