Grado | Via | Stile equipaggiamento | Qualità | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Ven 5 Lug 2024 - Deponie | ||||||
Hauptsektor | ||||||
6a+ ~6b |
★ ??
![]() | 10m | ★ Buona | |||
Felt really quite hard for the grade. Slippery hand- and footholds. Maybe also because of the humidity... Nice moves nonetheless.
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6c |
★ ?
![]() | 10m | ★ Buona | |||
Short boulder in the middle, rest easier.
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7a |
★★ Sanftes Unheil
![]() | 27m | ★★★ Classica | |||
Super nice route.
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Sab 29 Giu 2024 - Paschga | ||||||
6b+ |
★★ Antibrumm
![]() | 18m, 7 | ★★ Molto buona | |||
6b Dura |
★★ Parapic
![]() | 18m | ★★ Molto buona | |||
Crux was a bit unclear, hard to read and quite "airy".
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Sab 29 Giu 2024 - St. Jöri | ||||||
Hauptwand | ||||||
6a+ Dura |
★★ Hinkelbein
![]() | 10m | ★ Buona | |||
Steep. High gravity day. Zero endurance. Only very few routes were dry. Everything quite humid.
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6a+ Dura |
★★ Gügärügü
![]() | 10m, 5 | ||||
6a |
★★ Böggele
![]() | 18m | ★ Buona | |||
Mar 25 Giu 2024 - Basler Jura | ||||||
Eptingen Diegterwand | ||||||
6a |
★ Apéro
![]() | 12m | ★ Buona | |||
Repeat / Warm up.
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7b |
★★★ Höllenfahrt
![]() | 20m, 10 | ★★★ Classica | |||
Still a long way to go to link it all.
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7a |
★★ Go for it
![]() | 17m | ★★ Molto buona | |||
6b+ |
★★ Dévers
![]() | 15m, 10 | ★★ Molto buona | |||
Hard to read and crimpy.
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Dom 16 Giu 2024 - Plattenwald | ||||||
Plattenwand | ||||||
6c |
★ Gatto Rosso Extension
![]() | 23m | ||||
Not even able to get to the first bolt today. Too tired?
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6b |
★★ Gatto Rosso
![]() | 18m | ★★ Molto buona | |||
Nice and flowy. The main difficulty is getting to the anchor...
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6b+ |
★★ Finale
![]() | 35m, 16 | ★★★ Classica | |||
Repeat warm-up.
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7a+ Facile |
★★ Bounty
![]() | 35m | ★★ Molto buona | |||
Needed a second go for the overhanging crux, which is mainly a bit psycho to clip with the ledge below.
Rest of the route went alright at first go. It's mainly a bit of a techy slabby headgame. |
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Dom 26 Mag 2024 - Plattenwald | ||||||
Plattenwand | ||||||
7a+ |
★★ Yellow Cake
![]() | 18m | ★★★ Classica | |||
Still no solution for crux.
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6a+ |
★★ Schwertfisch
![]() | 20m | ★★★ Classica | |||
Felt shaky today.
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6c+ |
★★ Zeckenalarm
![]() | 25m | ★★ Molto buona | |||
Great route with two nice cruxes, one down low and one near the finish. Unfortunately missed a hold at the second-to-last bolt and thus messed up the flash.
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6b |
★ Plan B
![]() | 18m | ★ Buona | |||
Warm-up
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Lun 20 Mag 2024 - Plattenwald | ||||||
Plattenwand | ||||||
6b+ |
★★ Bohrstaub.ch
![]() | 32m, 15 | ★★ Molto buona | |||
The + needs to be earned. Got thrown off at third bolt on first go. Needed to have a good hard look at this section. The rest is not a piece of cake either.
Athletic and steep at the start, very diagonal in the middle and slabby, technical climbing towards the finish. |
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7a+ |
★★ Yellow Cake
![]() | 18m | ★★★ Classica | |||
What a beauty. Terrible footholds at the crux (5th to 6th bolt), so I did not yet find a solution there. The rest is not too difficult and offers quite a bit of variation with a few thinner and slabby moves, a few jugs on a bulge and a finish on slopers.
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5b |
★ Check-In
![]() | 20m | ★ Buona | |||
Repeat. Easy start today.
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6c |
★★ Metamorphose
![]() | 35m | ★★★ Classica | |||
Dom 19 Mag 2024 - Plattenwald | ||||||
Plattenwand | ||||||
6b |
★ Plan B
![]() | 18m | ★★ Molto buona | |||
Repeat. Short and not obvious crux at third bolt.
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5c+ |
★ Dampfkessel
![]() | 15m | ★ Buona | |||
Repeat. Quite tricky boulder at third(?) bolt.
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6b+ |
★★ Finale
![]() | 35m, 16 | ★★★ Classica | |||
Repeat. 6b in the topo, which I think checks out.
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6c |
★★ Metamorphose
![]() | 35m | ★★★ Classica | |||
Needed to have a look at the crux. Found quite an easy solution only to mess it up on second go - being a bit too stressed with the rainfall starting.
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Mar 30 Apr 2024 - Basler Jura | ||||||
Falkenfluh Holzer | ||||||
6b |
Con attrezzatura
★★ Wunderfinken
![]() | 25m, 6 | ★★★ Classica | |||
Really nice flow. Rather good holds.
The ground-fall-run-out up to the second bolt seems unnecessary even though the climbing is easy. |
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6c+ |
★★ Sanduhrendrama
![]() | 20m, 7 | ★ Buona | |||
Left-traverse at the supposed crux (bolt 4 to 5, I think) felt super-hard. Did not find a solution and lowered down.
Getting to the fourth bolt was already quite the move. Rather polished holds. Looks still nice, though. |
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Mar 30 Apr 2024 - Basler Jura | ||||||
Falkenfluh Amboss | ||||||
5c |
Con attrezzatura
★★ Pfeiler
![]() | 25m, 6 | ★★ Molto buona | |||
Nice warm-up. Not easy to read.
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5c |
Con attrezzatura
★★ Feierabendriß
![]() | 25m, 4 | ★★★ Classica | |||
Crux not easy to read, but all in all the route is really just a classic dulfer-dihedral. A bit polished but still a lot of fun.
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Dom 28 Apr 2024 - Basler Jura | ||||||
Eptingen Bündel | ||||||
6a+ |
★ Crazy Wall
![]() | 20m, 8 | ★ Buona | |||
Warm-up. Repeat. One-move-wonder.
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Dom 28 Apr 2024 - Basler Jura | ||||||
Eptingen Diegterwand | ||||||
7a |
★★ Go for it
![]() | 17m | ★★ Molto buona | |||
Fell out at last bolt.
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Dom 21 Apr 2024 - Contra | ||||||
Contrattacco | ||||||
5b+ |
★ Contrazione
![]() | ★ Buona | ||||
Crux right at the second bolt with a move on small holds and feet on friction. Rest is super-easy.
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5b ~5b+ |
★ Contratta
![]() | ★ Buona | ||||
Might well be a bit harder, I think harder than the neighboring route to the right. Thin crux above a ledge.
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Dom 21 Apr 2024 - Contra | ||||||
Contraerea | ||||||
6c+ |
★★ Solidaria
![]() | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
Repeat. Tough start.
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7b |
★★★ S.P.Q.R
![]() | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
Found solutions for all the moves, linking and clipping still challenging.
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Sab 20 Apr 2024 - Cresciano | ||||||
Federica | ||||||
6a |
★★ A Sud de Nessun Nord
![]() | 25m | ★ Buona | |||
Not always easy to read.
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6b+ |
Con attrezzatura
★★ Sensazioni Profonde
![]() | 20m | ★★ Molto buona | |||
A few small holds right before the top.
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7a+ |
★★★ Anals
![]() | 20m | ★★ Molto buona | |||
Felt impossible, but maybe like the one to the left I should go again. Pretty tough at the start.
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7a |
★★★ Palle di Neve
![]() | 20m | ★★ Molto buona | |||
Nice and a bit steep. Sustained start to good hold between second and third bolt, then it gets quite tough sgain with a nice dynamic crux move from small holds to a "thank-god"-jug. First time around it felt impossible, but with open eyes I could find a better hold or sequence here or there.
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5c+ |
Con attrezzatura
★★ Super Crak
![]() | 15m | ★★★ Classica | |||
Awesome and very varied climbing.
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6c |
★★★ La trumba
![]() | 30m | ||||
Did not feel the way up to third bolt, a bit awkward falling there. Maybe another time
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Dom 14 Apr 2024 - Basler Jura | ||||||
Eptingen Diegterwand | ||||||
7b |
★★★ Höllenfahrt
![]() | 20m, 10 | ★★★ Classica | |||
Still struggling between 7th and 9th. The sequence to get under the bulge feels like the real crux.
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7a |
★★ Go for it
![]() | 17m | ★★ Molto buona | |||
Still haven't really found a working solution at the 4th bolt. Need to improve my footwork I guess.
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Dom 14 Apr 2024 - Basler Jura | ||||||
Eptingen Bündel | ||||||
6b ~6a+ |
★ Blue Way
![]() | 20m, 5 | ★★ Molto buona | |||
Warm-up 2. A few slippery footholds and one or two moves on small holds, but I quite like it nonetheless.
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5b+ |
Con attrezzatura
★ Stairway to heaven
![]() | 20m, 5 | ★ Buona | |||
Warm-up 1
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Sab 13 Apr 2024 - Basler Jura | ||||||
Eptingen Bündel | ||||||
5c+ Dura |
★ Berührungsangst
![]() | 20m, 8 | ★ Buona | |||
Warm-up / heat-up in the sun. Not too easy, actually. Feels harder than "Jumping Jack".
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Sab 13 Apr 2024 - Basler Jura | ||||||
Eptingen Diegterwand | ||||||
7a |
★★ Go for it
![]() | 17m | ★★ Molto buona | |||
Tough and thin boulder to get to / over the 4th bolt with a sea of possibilities for the feet. Not sure of the right solution...
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Gio 11 Apr 2024 - Berner Jura | ||||||
Orvin Nouvelle nuance | ||||||
6a+ |
★★ Dactylogramme gris
![]() | 20m | ★★ Molto buona | |||
A bit more sustained than than the 6a+es further left.
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6a+ |
★★ Rêve d'Orgon
![]() | 20m | ★★ Molto buona | |||
Short and rather thin crux sequence above the middle chains.
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6a+ |
★★★ Sympa avec des coinceurs
![]() | 20m | ★★★ Classica | |||
Very nice and varied technical climbing.
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5c+ ~5c |
Con attrezzatura
★★ Magic mushroom
![]() | 25m | ★★ Molto buona | |||
One move wonder to get to the chains.
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5a |
★★ Les dalles grises
![]() | 30m | ★★ Molto buona | |||
5c+ |
★ Lou Caftie
![]() | ★ Buona | ||||
5a+ ~5a |
Direttissima
![]() | 25m | ★ Buona | |||
Sab 6 Apr 2024 - Basler Jura | ||||||
Eptingen Wasserfalle | ||||||
6a |
Con attrezzatura
★ Dobre-Jitro
![]() | 12m | ★★ Molto buona | |||
Sab 6 Apr 2024 - Basler Jura | ||||||
Eptingen Diegterwand | ||||||
6b+ |
Con attrezzatura
★★ Breakout
![]() | 15m | ★★ Molto buona | |||
Had to fight for this flash.
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7b |
★★★ Höllenfahrt
![]() | 20m, 10 | ★★★ Classica | |||
Tough from 6th to 9th bolt.
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Sab 6 Apr 2024 - Basler Jura | ||||||
Eptingen Bündel | ||||||
6a |
★ Jumping Jack
![]() | 20m, 6 | ★★ Molto buona | |||
Warm-up.
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6b+ |
Zeichen der Zeit
![]() | 20m, 5 | ||||
Still a tough cookie and hard to read. Once you clipped the second bolt, it's basically over...
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Gio 4 Apr 2024 - Berner Jura | ||||||
Orvin Nouvelle nuance | ||||||
6b Dura |
★★ Nouvelle Perle
![]() | 20m | ★★ Molto buona | |||
Nice technical/thin crux on the slab.
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6c ~6b |
★ Trous secs
![]() | 25m | ★ Buona | |||
One dynamic move - probably shared with "Styx"?!?
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5b+ |
★★★ Clean
![]() | 30m | ★★ Molto buona | |||
5a+ ~5a |
Direttissima
![]() | 25m | ★ Buona | |||
5b Dura |
★★ Verdon facile
![]() | 25m | ★ Buona | |||
Sab 16 Mar 2024 - Claro | ||||||
California | ||||||
6c Dura |
★★★ Mouline Rouge
![]() | 20m | ★★★ Classica | |||
Needed long to decipher crux to get over "the bulge". Was too hot to find a sensible solution for two moves further up...
(Beta for bulge - something along the lines of: both hands on/around the sharp obvious center hold, left foot high somehat on friction, then get right foot on high foothold while kind of gaston-ing the rounded edge with the right(? - definitely the opposite hand than what would seem obvious) for balance.) |
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Sab 16 Mar 2024 - Claro | ||||||
Il Cubo | ||||||
6a+ Dura |
★★ Il grande Passo
![]() | 30m | ★★ Molto buona | |||
One of the few routes that were dry in the morning. Held on to a sling for clipping one sketchy bolt in a friction climbing section.
Nice & bit heady route. |
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Sab 16 Mar 2024 - Claro | ||||||
Pallas | ||||||
6a+ |
★★ Opera Pia
![]() | 10m | ★★ Molto buona | |||
Nice short technical route.
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6c |
★★ Lobbia
![]() | 10m | ★★ Molto buona | |||
Very varied climbing along the edge of a pillar. Some athletic moves and some more technical.
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Dom 4 Feb 2024 - Thunersee | ||||||
Hole | ||||||
5b |
★ Wikinger
![]() | Media | ||||
A bit too green on the right, but most of the climbing is taking place on the left.
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6a |
★★ Handzahm
![]() | ★ Buona | ||||
Not obvious.
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6b |
★ Dizzy
![]() | ★ Buona | ||||
The climbing is actually quite nice but unfortunately some holds in the upper part are a bit dirty.
Needed a second go at the start because I did overlook the jug for clipping the 2nd bolt. |
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6b+ |
★★ Mutterstolz
![]() | ★★★ Classica | ||||
From time to time a bit thin and technical. Very nice.
|
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6b |
★★ Signalco
![]() | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
Very varied with an "alpine" flair.
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Gio 4 Gen 2024 - Contra | ||||||
Contrabbando | ||||||
6b |
★★ Pervitin
![]() | 15m, 6 | ★★ Molto buona | |||
Good flow of movement.
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6c+ |
Slabrador
![]() | Media | ||||
Mantle down low can actually be easily done without an awkward alpine knee. The crux is kind of a one move wonder that can cost a lot of skin when repeatedly done... Best to directly aim for the good hold far back instead of the closer but worse sloper.
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5c Facile |
★★ Anomalisa
![]() | 20m | ★ Buona | |||
Warm-Up
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Mer 3 Gen 2024 - Contra | ||||||
Contraerea | ||||||
7a+ |
★★ Fly
![]() | ★★★ Classica | ||||
Totally out of my element. Very endurance-y. Unfortunately quite a few hard/sketchy clips with a bit of ground-fall-potential. Batteries empty on the second go...
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7a |
★★ Skywalker
![]() | ★★★ Classica | ||||
Finally got the send. For me still quite a challenge even though I might even have cheated a little by resting with left foot on flake at 5th bolt. Great route with a "grande finale".
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7a |
★★ Skywalker
![]() | ★★★ Classica | ||||
Messed up getting to bolt 5. Rest went alright.
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6b |
★★ Adam Contra
![]() | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
Warm-up... Very clumsily clipped bolt 2... Then staying left is indeed easier than convoluted right-traverse-solution...
|
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Lun 1 Gen 2024 - Contra | ||||||
Contraerea | ||||||
7a |
★★ Skywalker
![]() | ★★★ Classica | ||||
Bit of a process going on here. Needed to find a few puzzle pieces, but I should have everything together now. Splendid route.
|
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6a+ |
★★ Rocky monster
![]() | 30m | ★ Buona | |||
6a+ |
★★ Rocky monster
![]() | 30m | ★ Buona | |||
Sab 30 Dic 2023 - Contra | ||||||
Contraerea | ||||||
7a |
★★ Skywalker
![]() | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
6b |
★★ Adam Contra
![]() | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
Probably easier to stay left instead of doing a convoluted right-traverse
|
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5c |
★★ Contrad
![]() | 20m | ★★ Molto buona | |||
Getting used to real rock again...
|
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Dom 29 Ott 2023 - Solothurner Jura | ||||||
Rüttelhorn Gelbe Wand | ||||||
6c |
★★ Boys at work
![]() | 20m | ★★ Molto buona | |||
Did not see the right-side handhold and could not solve it via the left side. Not sure if my solution ends up too far off the route on the right side as it feels way easier than a 6c. On the other hand going straight up seems to be "impossible" for me. No time for a second go, unfortunately.
Nice crag. A bit cold today. |
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6b+ Facile |
★★ Eidechsenweg
![]() | 20m | ★★ Molto buona | |||
Crux was hard to decipher at first, but once it is clear, it feels easier than "Herbstfurz".
|
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6b Dura |
★ Herbstfurz
![]() | 20m | ★★ Molto buona | |||
Two nice cruxes. One needed a good bit of looking-at... for me to find a terrible solution.
|
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6a |
★ Via Marianna
![]() | 20m | ★ Buona | |||
Warm-Up.
|
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Dom 22 Ott 2023 - Solothurner Jura | ||||||
Balsthal Holzflue | ||||||
6c+ |
★★ Man in the mirror
![]() | 20m | ★★ Molto buona | |||
At last found a solution for freeing the crux, but it's kinda low-percentage.
|
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5c |
★ Zweärgniaga
![]() | 15m | ★ Buona | |||
6b+ |
★★ Frog
![]() | 15m | ★★ Molto buona | |||
Wow, there even is a 6b that is doable onsight.
|
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6b+ |
★★ Blamage
![]() | 25m | ||||
Blamage indeed, start is a hard boulder.
|
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7b+ |
★★ Die Flöhe husten hören
![]() | 18m | ★★ Molto buona | |||
Gave it a try up to last bolt. Start seems doable, but the middle part is hard.
|
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Gio 5 Ott 2023 - Eppenberg | ||||||
Roggenhusersteinbruch | ||||||
6b |
★ Schratte-Trail
![]() | 25m | Media | |||
Hard boulder after the artificial hold (to another cemented hold). Doable.
|
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5c+ |
★★ Schön Riss
![]() | 25m | ★ Buona | |||
Warmup
|