등정들 West of the access track에서

I broke off the flexy section on the arete from power stemming in the low crux 😢😢😢

Still goes, it’s just going to change the flow of the low crux. Sorry everyone 😩

Cracked the first crux, found a specific right foot sequence that sets me up to execute the drive by. The straight on compression/crimp/frogging sequence is too powerful for me so I have to beta hack the hell out of it.

Sequence sorted in low crux and manage to tap the crimp during the drive by move. Next stage is links from ground and unlocking next crux. 🎉

more gears

Had a frolic placing gears ⚙️

Wahoo

Jugs, repeat to lube up the trad joints

Enjoyed every rest to the full. Still had to crank the crux move. The climb that keeps giving all the way. Beautiful jamming 🤩

Got the "old school points"

Thought this was a 15 and got frightfully confused when placing too small gear gear on awkward fist jams. Turns out it is possible without C4s and not too run out.

Good one for the toes

Easier than I thought. Will be back

4 snakeskins, 0 snake sightings, winning.

40m is long.

Really fun, super chill climb.

Turns out not too spooky, last year I was just inexperienced

Commenting just so everyone who sees this goes and reads the comments! Sad I fell off the start

Approooachhiiiies!

Seconding Pete on his first trad lead…. He smashed it!

Always a stonker.

Found the bestest bottom crux beta: skip all the off width nonsense and just dyno to the jugs. Dynos: The one true way to send Satans.

Session two:

• Back to back trousers days is a bad idea; need as much gas as possible to maximise each session.
• A few key parts of the low crux unlocked thanks to Kyle and Alex’s send video beta. Thanks lads!
• Why do my hips and legs have DOMs?? Oh, it’s from all that damn body tension!
• Grade 28 is fooking haaaaard.

as Mike Tyson said - everyone has a plan until they get punched in the face. I didn't have a plan when I received my punch on the onsight attempt - what was supposed to be a big juggy ledge turned out to be a sloppy greasy desperate nonsense. few sporadic attempts to negotiate the situation ended with a heart breaking whip, leaving me ponder wtf has just happened. Also I didn't find an anchor at the top and my belayer didn't want to second it anyway so I ended up backjumping and cleaning the whole way down. Destroyed!

Rested at the chock stone, great climb with interesting moves!

Definitely a fight, left nice and scratched up. Will need a #8 or a big bro to protect this properly, also spinning chock stones aren’t the nicest haha

Epic! Such an awesome and unique climb, nothing quite like it!

Elaines lead and she crushed it

Nicole confidnetly marched up and hit the ledge. Nothing but a bruised bum bu tthe thud was lound enough to make us quite concerned. Probably going to be leaving this alone for the mean time. Bottom half is very good

trying the non skin intensive bits haha

What a line! It was a fight and had more varied climbing than I was expecting. Probably the best trad route I've done! Finished just before sunset. Which gave Lara approx. 30min of light left to follow, which she smashed