접속점들 Serpent에서

Serpent began as a sport crag for summer climbing, and as a testing ground for those wanting to get accustomed to steeper ground. Many of the routes rely totally on bolt protection with fixed hangers, but that does not mean that we have ignored good natural gear. Therefore a selection of medium to large wires, small to medium cams and one or two larger pieces if so required for routes like 'Minotaur' won't go astray.

A 50m rope will suffice for most of the routes, but a 60m will do all the routes while also making rapping easier. About 10 quickdraws will be heaps and a couple of shoulder length slings to reduce drag. A handful of removable keyhole hangers will also be needed, for some routes still sport a carrot or two. All routes have lower-off rap stations, although some are shared.

When you reach a lower-off, please adhere to the international silent rule and place your own carabiners/quickdraws to top rope or work a route, otherwise the fixed gear is worn out very quickly and suddenly becomes a concern. When simply rappelling or lowering just the once, by all means use the fixed gear.

The trachyte at 'Serpent' is very sound and most routes here have had plenty of traffic. The friction is good and the features quite amazing, but this is rockclimbing and a loose block or two may still be encountered, so take care.

Useful Info: This guidebook is mainly comprised of infomation from Lee Cujes & Darrin Carters Qurank Guide. Some small changes and updates of new routes have been added by Matt Schimke. Topo's coming soon.

A nice area with a great variety of climbing styles and grades. A lot of the routes require stick clipping, and are bolted with this in mind.

Natural pro traversing left under the flake. Starts just where the track starts to steep to the left. Finish over the top, passing a FH and belay from tree.

Starts just left of Crimes And Punishment and traverses left on slopers and pockets.

Up pocketed slab to tree with lower-off. Two FH’s and gear?? I thought there should be three bolts, but I could only find the first and last FH’s, leaving a huge runout and potential groundfall.

Five FH's to ledge and chains. Ledgy, awkward, but a worthy access pitch for P2. Perhaps stick clip first bolt, as the rock is a little crumbly at the start.

A second pitch to the previous route. Four FH's. Beautiful golden rock. Careful on 2nd clip!

Up Harpe for the first two FH's, then up L passing a fixed wire and another FH. Doesent get much traffic, so it's a bit overgrown.

Popular. Three FH’s protect the juggy flake traverse to lower-off. Stickclip the first. Best to clean this on second.

The current hardest route at Serpent. Stickclip first two bolts from chossy ledge. Hard pull onto wall, with continual bouldering which doesn't relent until you clip the anchor. Hard the entire way. Originally an old Aaron Jones project, until he broke the crux hold and deemed it too hard for the time. Many years have passed and it has finally seen a first ascent.

Starting L of Stingray’s cave. Four FH’s up the steep stuff. Tough start on tufa feature, with long moves on big holds following.

2m left of Minotaur. Up technical chimney to rooflet. Around this and up face. FH’s. Some love it, some hate it.

Six FH’s to finish on grassy ledge with 3 bolts. Rap or walk off left along ledge (which leads to 'The Lookout' wall). Amazing, tricky and committing climbing. You can access it from climbing Minotaur P1 and traversing left across to starting anchor, as an easier alternative to climbing Stingray P1.

Starts up Minotaur and moves left at first bolt and shoots left through the roof. Hard, long move on face above, before joinging into Stingray P1's last bolt. Anchor on ledge above.

Unlikely and interesting climbing for the grade. Starts just to the left of the huge fangs (on U-bolt) and climbs the ramp onto slab above. Up passing U-bolts bolts into cave. Out of cave on pockets and up slabby face to lower-off (steel perma-biner). There is a #4 cam between the 4th and 5th bolt which is optional, as well as a perfect pocket to sling. .

Runout, but quite nice! Two FH’s to chains. Move directly right after Minotaur P1 anchor, up into corner. Follow line of least resistance. Can get down with a 70m if you link them.

Extension above Minotaur, on crimpy slab. Continue straight above anchor of M passing two rings, before a tricky move out right. Two more bolts straight above to chain (last ringbolt is hidden about a metre left of visible FH). You will need a 70m rope to get back to the ground. .

Up Minotaur to cave. Now right out cave and launch rightward along traverse line passing bolts. Trend up (crux) and right across face. Sustained, and interesting climbing the whole way.

Starts about 3 metres to the right of Minotaur. 1 bolt leads to steep wall. Compressive, powerful climbing follows. Joins into TG after 3 bolts and finishes up it. Sustained and powerful climbing.

Has an anchor. Probably unclimbable.

About 15m L of The Sundog Traverse. A 45 degree overhanging line past three FH’s with a sinew-stretching final move. Harder if you’re short.

Some dodgy rock on this one, but offers some very tiny holds for you to pit your tips against. Start just right of Medusa at the slabby crack. Stickclip first bolt from chossy ledge. Hard pull straight away to chossy jugs above. Continue on thin holds (crux) culminating with some pumpy wall climbing to anchor above on ledge. The choss just below of the third bolt needs some maintenance (polyester glue smared around the parts that are crumbling).

Closed project a couple of meters left of 'The Sundog Traverse'.

Starts 4m L of B. Stickclip first U-bolt to protect the thin start before trending left across slab passing FH’s to stance. Now up overhanging terrain (on the right line of bolts) past more FHs and lower-off above on ledge. Really good climbing the whole way, but mind yourself between second and third bolt. Anchor could use a rebolt.

Start up TSDT, and head straight up on U bolts to steep wall. Bouldery, sustained moves all the way to last bolt. Pull past the pumpy top out to anchor straight above.

Start as for OFP in scoop. Easily up slab to high silver FH, then L into corner. Up corner past two FH’s to chains. Apparently there is a large wire before anchor, decreasing the runout.

Line of three FH's 4m right of TST to chains. A bit runout in parts, but otherwise has a few nice technical moves.

Up the shallow groove around the corner from the main wall. Three BR’s (hard to see!) to chains. The middle one is fat and needs a bigger bracket.

Supposedly the bolting is a bit dodgy. Beware.

A small buttress located above and to the left of Serpent (above Crimes And Punishment). Two excellent routes exist here to date.

Beautiful sweeping line up a thin seam. Technical and reachy.

Stickclip start. Up slab then ginormous undercling slap to massive jug. 5 FH?s.

From the left hand end of 'Serpent', follow vague track uphill passing the turnoff for 'The Lookout'. Continue along the base of the massif itself. Approximately 200m from 'Serpent' will be a right facing corner starting from the ground with a wide crack and a slab to its right. Climb up the fixed rope up to large tree and then another rope leads L along a small ledge (care!). 'Ferris Wheel' starts from this ledge. Follow more fixed line to 'Circus Wall' proper.

Start on ledge just after second rope. Up the lovely wall passing a FH and two BR’s to tree belay. The top section is runout.

Surprisingly sustained. Climbs through an interesting roof/cave section. Four FH’s and a BR on the headwall to chains. Take a medium hex or big wire (optional).

Scary. RPs. Has a bolt up high.

Pocketed seam. Has a PR and a FH up high. Needs natural gear. Take care!!

Corner. Scary. RP's. Has a bolt up high. Grade is unknown, as it the name.

Small section of wall right next to the walking track, about 50m before you get to Shotgun Wall. These routes get shade before Shotgun, so are good for early afternoon.

Quite varied climbing. Bouldery start up seam onto balancy slab/corner. Contort L into finger crack to layoff though bulge, then easier slab climbing to top (station on L). Four FH’s. Please be careful clipping the second bolt, or stickclip it.

Open book corner, left of hot lead. Adventurous.

Some thin cranking. 1.5m L. Up the broken flake to balancy ledge. Hard moves pulling onto the wall (way hard if you’re short?), then up to station. Four FH’s.

From the left hand end of 'Serpent', follow worn track uphill along the base of the massif for approximately 400m. You will pass the access point for 'Circus Wall' on your right (rope leading up slab). You'll also pass Bullet-Hard Buttress with its couple of bolted lines. About 50m past this is 'Shotgun Wall'. At the R-hand end of this wall, an arching crackline is found. This is the start of 'Semi Auto'. Continue along to the first pocketed orange streak. This is 'Pump Action'. Walk a little further up onto a raised platform. There is a fixed line on your L down a gully to access other routes.

Up the crack on wires to rooflet. Over this (FH) and up face to lower off.

Bolt protected and quite hard and a bit runout. Three FH’s.

Slick and devious climbing up the attractive pocketed line. Runout after the third bolt.

Powerful. Starts about 4m L of PA. Up black rock passing FHs. Crux is around the third one. Top is runout, and finishes at PA’s chains. Never feels like a 19.

Technical. Starting on the pedestal 3m L of OOA. Line of FH’s up the easiest looking section. A stern crank down low leads to an intricate and excellent upper half.

Starts 6m L of OOA. Up through small roof and up superb stone on the headwall passing a fixed thread to lower off.

A pretty average natural route put up to get to a good photo spot for Ricochet. Follows ramp right of Ricochet and then up headwall left of the top of Out of Ammo.

Easily up slab to high first FH. Carefully clip second FH zigging L then zagging back R to jug at the base of the business (FH). Unlock the first crux to stance with mono pocket and out-of-reach final FH. Now lean into the second crux before a long runout to the anchor.

3m L of R. Superb orange pockets with a crux up high. FH’s. Another hard onsight!

A few metres to the left of Itchy. Will be a super sweet face climb.