등정들 Ontario에서 Olivier GK에 의한

Thanks Ken for the FA! Found a beta that makes it less impossible than expected. Crux is a short ~V4 burly boulder.

Not sure about the grade, but it took me two attempts and given that the crux hold was still wet, I think that it will probably settle to be 5.12a later in the season.

Felt way harder than 5.7. Low friction

Had no idea Kelso had such a long quality line! Fumbled through the pumpy crux but managed to hang on (barely). May be harder than 11b

Good lesson in beta-finding with no chalk on any holds! Cryptic and technical. Quality climb! Sooo close on my second go but lopped off on the top crux. Good reason to come back to Kelso some day.

Cleared out the winter cobwebs

Soft at V5. Worthwhile. Bad landing.

Only took me 3-4 goes but it's a quite hard and far first move. Pretty spanned out with 180cm wingspan. The slightly higher left foot helped the reach. Quality boulder. Top out is still mossy/dirty so just matched the top and exited off the right boulder

Probably one of the better problems at CND. Cool movement. Spent a long time digging out mud from the holds at the top.

Bucket to bucket.

Nice boulder, too bad there isn't a sit start on the face going straight up. I did a face + arete stand start which was contrived but ok.

Tried this my first time out at the Glen and it seemed too scary. Easier than I thought it would be and absolutely easier than Sabishii. That left hand slot hold is perfect.

Thank you TC pros. Almost got the sit start too!

Thought it would go pretty fast since it's my style and it almost went first session. Tried it about 10x second session and couldn't stick the second ledge. Gave up for the day, but decided to do 1 last try at the end of the day after Nogoko and stuck it. Easily V7.

Sprayed some 99% rubbing alcohol on the holds to dissolve away the paint a bit. Friction is pretty good now! Best problem here.

This is really not a good or fun problem at all.

Better and less painful than "Ivy League". Good one for me to learn to trust my feet! Although I unlearned my lesson after my foot slipped on me as I was reaching for the jug, but luckily I caught it while falling. 0.01 seconds away from punting the top!

About as bad as sally girl

That remaining flexing flake does not inspire confidence... Hard one, but still possible despite the breakage.

Pretty straightforward

Enjoyed seeing incremental progress on this short but interesting problem. Beautiful sunny February afternoon by the river.

Cool sequence

My attempt at contriving the hardest problem here. Probably one of the better problems. Big moves/cut feet/tension problem. I was hoping it would be harder though..!

Felt much better than last time I tried it 2 years ago. Got it first go. It all felt great until I got to the last jug with my right hand and hung there for about 30 seconds trying to figure out how to match it...

A beautiful December afternoon with good company. Happy to get the send of this testpiece! 4 sessions I think? Haven't been on this in almost a year and a half. First of the grade.

What a treat to pull this off at (probably) the last good climbing day of the season! Absolutely gruelling fight to the death to cling on. Pure clutch, no flow.

Took me 7 sessions, with 7 of those sessions spent trying to find better beta for the crux... spoiler alert - all the variations are bloody hard!

1st of the grade. 3rd go of the day. Totally expected this to be a next year project so I had pretty low expectations. Beautiful conditions thanks to a southerly breeze.

More enjoyable than expected. I'll have to try again when it's not wet..

Unexpected send 2nd try with frozen fingers with great beta sprayed at me. 2 degrees with no sun. Awkward mantel, I'll have to try the direct at some point. #2go

All moves done.

The crux sequence worked much better with fresh fingers. Still hard as nails. Almost punted off the top completely butchering the excellent beta I had devised for it.

Hard to grade... Hardest slabby climb I've sent so at least 5.12c. On the other hand it only took 4 tries total (with amazing intricate crux beta fed to me) and it is my anti-style so somewhere between 5.12c and 5.13a seems right.

More interesting of a sequence than I expected

Thought this was "Ripple Direct" and thought it was very soft for V6. Makes more sense now.

Fun traverse, but definitely not a V3 due to the boulder problem near the riverside of the boulder and the pumpiness factor traversing "Knee Bar". I thought it was significantly harder than "The Great Wall of China"

Does not add much to T&L.

Finally sent this thing... I did not use the slopers, instead opting for a triple 1/2 pad mono and thin side-pull. Still felt like V6 but much less frustrating!

Last time I tried this I could not even understand how this route could be sent. Some tricky knee bars and holds that don't look like holds make this thing possible. (Barely) did all the moves.

Powerful/crimpy/sustained crux. Everyone seems to have a different beta for every move, but it all feels just as hard no matter how you do it!

My goal was just to clip the 5th bolt from the ground up to get a new high point... I exceeded those expectations by a bit by clipping the anchor. 4 sessions

This would be an amazing 5.11 climb if it wasn't for that heinous crux sequence... That roof is a delight

Tough one for the grade but maybe I just suck at Nemo climbing! Real nice climb.

This is a great route if you can avoid thinking of the guidebook grade. It's really more of a hard 12a/12b I would think. Went out right to the arete and traversed back left to avoid the impossibly slick diagonal hold over the roof. Probably goes even harder using that hold and going direct. #3go

Sustained and solid at the grade.

Did all the moves, but my beta is terribly too difficult

Re-sent without using a knee bar/pad. I don't think it changes the difficulty significantly. 12d/13a

Haven't been on either of the routes in a year and forgot a lot of the beta, but managed to get it first go trying the linkup.

Almost stuck the onsight at the crux. One move wonder but still a nice climb. #3go

Crux is hard for the grade

This was such a great project for me. Bitter sweet to have finished it (but mostly sweet!) 4 sessions

All moves done.

Good until the first bolt!

Best line of the four I reckon! Went direct through the arete for the first part for extra fun and less rest. Maybe one day I'll send something hard without making it extra hard by being inefficient, but today was not that day! 3rd go trying the link up but I've done all the other routes. No knee bar used.