Les émigrés Guide

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Nans Toullec Kilian_sei Clément Lechaptois

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1. Les émigrés 33 in Cliff
- 1.1. La grotte 9 routes in Sector
- 1.2. La boule - gauche 16 routes in Sector
- 1.3. La boule - droite 8 routes in Sector
2. Index by grade

1. Les émigrés

1 2 3

1 La grotte 2 La boule - gauche 3 La boule - droite

Summary:

계절특성

33 routes in Cliff

Mostly 스포츠 클라이밍

Lat / Long: 43.185563, 5.561809

접근 문제들

Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/

France으로부터 상속된

접근

Park at the official viewpoint (5HM7+PF La Ciotat) and follow the path down towards big, globe-like boulders, in front of them is a little adventurous, steep path, secured by three rather old ropes. To the right you`ll find "La boule - gauche". From this sector you also reach "La grotte" (through a steep passage down and to the right) and "La boule - droite" (to the left).

Another variation of the way, which is also steep but doesn´t rely on the ropes: Don`t turn left in front of the globe-like boulders, but stay on the trail till the next option down. Now you will reach "La Grotte" from the western side by going down and left.

윤리문제

Park where indicated, take care of the environment, buy the local guidebook when possible (this is one of the ways you can help local route setters), clean up your shoes before climbing, don't spray beta, be polite.

France으로부터 상속된

1.1. La grotte

Summary:

계절특성

9 routes in Sector

남쪽 남서쪽 Left to right 오버행 진입로 수직벽

Mostly 스포츠 클라이밍

Lat / Long: 43.185882, 5.561164

	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
1	Sabot de Vénus Set: Olivier Rivière, 1993	7a	스포츠 클라이밍 20m
2	Obélie Set: J.C. Pitteau, 1993	8b	스포츠 클라이밍 18m
3	Yohimbé Maint: Eric Valls Set: J.C. Pitteau, 1995	7c	스포츠 클라이밍 20m
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	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
4	Vanille Plattenkletterei mit teils langen Hakenabständen, das Top bilden zwei runde Haken Set: Jean-Louis Ségu, 1994	6a	스포츠 클라이밍 16m
5	Edelweiss Set: Jean-Louis Ségu, 1994	6b+	스포츠 클라이밍 19m
6	Orchidée sauvage Set: Jean-Louis Ségu, 1994	6c	스포츠 클라이밍 16m
7	La directe des émigrés FA: Roger Canese, PIerre Coquillon & Daniel Quet, 1968 Set: Amitié Nature, 1986	6c	스포츠 클라이밍 20m
8	Hibiscus	7b+	스포츠 클라이밍 16m
9	La dent des émigrés FA: Roger Canese, Pierre Coquillon & Daniel Quet, 1968 Set: Amitié Nature, 1986	6a	전통등반 40m, 2

1.2. La boule - gauche

Summary:

계절특성

16 routes in Sector

Left to right 오버행 수직벽

모두 스포츠 클라이밍

Lat / Long: 43.185551, 5.562236

접근

park at the viewpoint (5HM7+PF La Ciotat) and follow the path down towards big, globe-like boulders, in front of them is a little path to the left, soon you will see three ropes. They mark a rather adventurous way through steep passages and a cave till you reach "La boule - gauche" on the right.

	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
1	Dilemme carpe diem Set: Nicolas Baey & Eric Valls	7b	스포츠 클라이밍 25m
2	Tibet libre Set: Nicolas Baey	6c+	스포츠 클라이밍 22m
3	L'air débonnaire Set: Nicolas Baey & Eric Valls	6a+	스포츠 클라이밍 22m
4	Digital crucifixion Set: Eric Valls & Manuel Paoli	6c+	스포츠 클라이밍 25m
5	Mini demande Set: Eirc Valls, Michel Clément & Manuel Paoli	6a	스포츠 클라이밍 25m
6	Label Guillaume Set: Eric Valls, Michel Clément & Manuel Paoli	6c+	스포츠 클라이밍 25m
7	Piège à cons Set: Nicolas Baey	5c+	스포츠 클라이밍 20m
8	★★★ Piège de cristal Set: Eric Valls	5c+	스포츠 클라이밍 22m
9	★★★ unknown, Crystal Route wonderful tour on picturesque quartz, first bolt is rather high, but the rest of the bolt distances are very acceptable!	6a	스포츠 클라이밍 25m
10	unknown No. 2 seems to be an alternative, and lot harder start to "Pièges à grives"	6b	스포츠 클라이밍 25m
11	Pièges à grives Set: Eric Valls	6a+	스포츠 클라이밍 22m
12	★ Piège à filles Set: Eric Valls	6a+	스포츠 클라이밍 25m
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	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
13	★ La philanthropie de l'ouvrier charpentier Same anchor as "Rêve sidéral d'un naïf idéal". Set: Nicolas Baey	6c+	스포츠 클라이밍 24m
14	Rêve sidéral d'un naïf idéal Same anchor as "La philanthropie de l'ouvrier charpentier". Set: Nicolas Baey	7c+	스포츠 클라이밍 24m
15	★★★ in bouillabaisse we trust Set: Nicolas Baey	6a	스포츠 클라이밍 18m
16	★★★ La tripe en folie de l'ouvrier partant chier Set: Nicolas Baey	7b+	스포츠 클라이밍 25m

1.3. La boule - droite

Summary:

계절특성

8 routes in Sector

Left to right 오버행 수직벽

모두 스포츠 클라이밍

Lat / Long: 43.185099, 5.562668

	Route	Grade	Style
1	Sur le fil du rasoir Set: Eric Valls & Etienne Paireau	6a	스포츠 클라이밍 16m
2	Des zigs et des zags Set: Eric Valls & Etienne Paireau	6c+	스포츠 클라이밍 18m
3	Avec Set: Eric Valls & Manuel Paoli	7b	스포츠 클라이밍 17m
4	Sans Set: Eric Valls	7b/b+	스포츠 클라이밍 17m
5	Serial croiteur Set: Nicolas Baey	6a+	스포츠 클라이밍 15m
6	Les burnes comptent pas pour des prunes Set: Nicolas Baey	7a+	스포츠 클라이밍 15m
7	Le plaisir s'accroit quand l'effet se recule Set: Nicolas Baey	6c	스포츠 클라이밍 17m
8	Ecart de conduite Set: Nicolas Baey	7a+	스포츠 클라이밍 16m

2. Index by grade

Grade	Stars	Name	Style	Area
5c+	★★★	Piège de cristal	스포츠 클라이밍 22m	1.2. La boule - gauche
		Piège à cons	스포츠 클라이밍 20m	1.2. La boule - gauche
6a		La dent des émigrés	전통등반 40m, 2	1.1. La grotte
		Vanille	스포츠 클라이밍 16m	1.1. La grotte
		Mini demande	스포츠 클라이밍 25m	1.2. La boule - gauche
	★★★	in bouillabaisse we trust	스포츠 클라이밍 18m	1.2. La boule - gauche
	★★★	unknown, Crystal Route	스포츠 클라이밍 25m	1.2. La boule - gauche
		Sur le fil du rasoir	스포츠 클라이밍 16m	1.3. La boule - droite
6a+		L'air débonnaire	스포츠 클라이밍 22m	1.2. La boule - gauche
	★	Piège à filles	스포츠 클라이밍 25m	1.2. La boule - gauche
		Pièges à grives	스포츠 클라이밍 22m	1.2. La boule - gauche
		Serial croiteur	스포츠 클라이밍 15m	1.3. La boule - droite
6b		unknown No. 2	스포츠 클라이밍 25m	1.2. La boule - gauche
6b+		Edelweiss	스포츠 클라이밍 19m	1.1. La grotte
6c		La directe des émigrés	스포츠 클라이밍 20m	1.1. La grotte
		Orchidée sauvage	스포츠 클라이밍 16m	1.1. La grotte
		Le plaisir s'accroit quand l'effet se recule	스포츠 클라이밍 17m	1.3. La boule - droite
6c+		Digital crucifixion	스포츠 클라이밍 25m	1.2. La boule - gauche
	★	La philanthropie de l'ouvrier charpentier	스포츠 클라이밍 24m	1.2. La boule - gauche
		Label Guillaume	스포츠 클라이밍 25m	1.2. La boule - gauche
		Tibet libre	스포츠 클라이밍 22m	1.2. La boule - gauche
		Des zigs et des zags	스포츠 클라이밍 18m	1.3. La boule - droite
7a		Sabot de Vénus	스포츠 클라이밍 20m	1.1. La grotte
7a+		Ecart de conduite	스포츠 클라이밍 16m	1.3. La boule - droite
		Les burnes comptent pas pour des prunes	스포츠 클라이밍 15m	1.3. La boule - droite
7b		Dilemme carpe diem	스포츠 클라이밍 25m	1.2. La boule - gauche
		Avec	스포츠 클라이밍 17m	1.3. La boule - droite
7b/b+		Sans	스포츠 클라이밍 17m	1.3. La boule - droite
7b+		Hibiscus	스포츠 클라이밍 16m	1.1. La grotte
	★★★	La tripe en folie de l'ouvrier partant chier	스포츠 클라이밍 25m	1.2. La boule - gauche
7c		Yohimbé	스포츠 클라이밍 20m	1.1. La grotte
7c+		Rêve sidéral d'un naïf idéal	스포츠 클라이밍 24m	1.2. La boule - gauche
8b		Obélie	스포츠 클라이밍 18m	1.1. La grotte

Les émigrés Guide

Warning

Contributors

Table of contents

1. Les émigrés

접근 문제들

접근

윤리문제

1.1. La grotte

1.2. La boule - gauche

접근

1.3. La boule - droite

2. Index by grade