접속점들 Gap of Dunloe에서

The Gap of Dunloe is located south west of Killarney, in County Kerry. It is an area of great importance to Cork and Kerry climbers as it offers many great routes at a good spread of grades, lengths and styles. The friction is generally excellent as is the quality of the rock and the setting is hard to beat. Despite all this it is a relatively quiet venue and as such, information on the climbing here is scarce.

This is a long low wall to the left of Cub Crag.

This climb is situated on a small buttress, with a large block on top (right of Rescue Rock). Climb up left of a large crack and then straight up to the top.

This climb is on the left hand side of the wall. Climb the thin crack line. Protection is sparce at the very top but the climbing is easy.

Climb straight up the face between Tom and Resonate.

Crack line 3m to the right of Tom. Climb to a square cut recess and over a bulge to a ledge.

This climb is to the right of Resonate. Climb to the right of a vegetated line. Climb about 10m to gain a ledge, then go over a small overhang to the top. Protection is poor.

Climb the black wall 4m to the right of Jerry. Climb about 10m to a large ledge, then slightly right and over an obvious overhang to the top (as for Jerry).

Climb up the middle of the face going over a small overhang at half height.

Climb the right hand side of the face exiting through a break in the heather at the top

The Gap of Dunloe is very popular with tourists. During the summer especially, jarveys take groups up and down the valley in their horse drawn carts. Because the road is so narrow traffic between oncoming cars and horses can become surprisingly congested. Please be courteous to the jarveys and consider parking at Kate Kearney‟s car park and walking from here (it only takes 10 minutes).

The Gap of Dunloe is very popular with tourists. During the summer especially, jarveys take groups up and down the valley in their horse drawn carts. Because the road is so narrow traffic between oncoming cars and horses can become surprisingly congested. Please be courteous to the jarveys and consider parking at Kate Kearney‟s car park and walking from here (it only takes 10 minutes).

The Gap of Dunloe is very popular with tourists. During the summer especially, jarveys take groups up and down the valley in their horse drawn carts. Because the road is so narrow traffic between oncoming cars and horses can become surprisingly congested. Please be courteous to the jarveys and consider parking at Kate Kearney‟s car park and walking from here (it only takes 10 minutes).

The Gap of Dunloe is very popular with tourists. During the summer especially, jarveys take groups up and down the valley in their horse drawn carts. Because the road is so narrow traffic between oncoming cars and horses can become surprisingly congested. Please be courteous to the jarveys and consider parking at Kate Kearney‟s car park and walking from here (it only takes 10 minutes).

The Gap of Dunloe is very popular with tourists. During the summer especially, jarveys take groups up and down the valley in their horse drawn carts. Because the road is so narrow traffic between oncoming cars and horses can become surprisingly congested. Please be courteous to the jarveys and consider parking at Kate Kearney‟s car park and walking from here (it only takes 10 minutes).

A good crag with fine views over the valley and beyond to the Reeks.

Conditions/Aspect It can be quite exposed to wind, which is good if the midges are out but bad if it‟s cold. The crag dries quickly after rain and seepage isn‟t a problem on most routes. West facing; a good spot for evening sunshine.

Arete above a large ledge on the extreme left of the buttress. Protection is sparse

Climb the line between The Ego Has Landed and Agent Orange. Climb directly up to the crackline and continue straight up to the top.

Start in a short left facing corner. Climb this then move right and climb the corner and flake moving slightly right to top out.

Climb up left of the overhang to gain a ledge. From the ledge step right and climb up to another ledge. Veer left at the blank face and climb over a small overhang near the top.

A great line, a soft touch for the grade. Climb the face to a large ledge, climb over the obvious protruding spike and then over the overhang to another ledge with a block. Move slightly right and climb the blunt arête to the top.

Start 3m right of Ljubljana and take a straight line to the top. Alternatively, finish up the crack of Raven to the top (easier). Sustained and strenuous but protection is good.

This climb is on the right hand side of the buttress. Climb through the obvious breach in the overhang until a good ledge on the left at half height. Traverse left until the vertical crack and take a straight line up this to the top. A great route. Variation (HVS 5a): Traverse half way across and climb over the small overhang.

Start as for Raven but continue straight to the top.

Start as for Raven. Standing on the first ledge arrange gear in the crack, then step out right onto the face gaining good holds. Go straight to the top from here, keeping left of a small bush and going past a short slab and through the overhang at 3/4 height. Beware of a hollow block after the step right.

The Gap of Dunloe is very popular with tourists. During the summer especially, jarveys take groups up and down the valley in their horse drawn carts. Because the road is so narrow traffic between oncoming cars and horses can become surprisingly congested. Please be courteous to the jarveys and consider parking at Kate Kearney‟s car park and walking from here (it only takes 10 minutes).

The first port of call for 90% of Gap virgins. A popular and very accessible crag

Thin line on the left hand side of the crag. Climb to a ledge at half height and continue straight up to the top (right of some gorse).

Be prepared for hordes of tourists and people telling you you could have just walked up around the left (as you face the crag) side (descent). Bolts for belay (well back). Seepage can be a problem on most routes after prolonged rain. A day of dry weather sorts this out. East facing. The left crag contains most of the routes. The right crag is smaller and scrappier.

Be prepared for hordes of tourists and people telling you you could have just walked up around the left (as you face the crag) side (descent). Bolts for belay (well back). Seepage can be a problem on most routes after prolonged rain. A day of dry weather sorts this out. East facing. The left crag contains most of the routes. The right crag is smaller and scrappier.

Be prepared for hordes of tourists and people telling you you could have just walked up around the left (as you face the crag) side (descent). Bolts for belay (well back). Seepage can be a problem on most routes after prolonged rain. A day of dry weather sorts this out. East facing. The left crag contains most of the routes. The right crag is smaller and scrappier.

Be prepared for hordes of tourists and people telling you you could have just walked up around the left (as you face the crag) side (descent). Bolts for belay (well back). Seepage can be a problem on most routes after prolonged rain. A day of dry weather sorts this out. East facing. The left crag contains most of the routes. The right crag is smaller and scrappier.

Be prepared for hordes of tourists and people telling you you could have just walked up around the left (as you face the crag) side (descent). Bolts for belay (well back). Seepage can be a problem on most routes after prolonged rain. A day of dry weather sorts this out. East facing. The left crag contains most of the routes. The right crag is smaller and scrappier.

Be prepared for hordes of tourists and people telling you you could have just walked up around the left (as you face the crag) side (descent). Bolts for belay (well back). Seepage can be a problem on most routes after prolonged rain. A day of dry weather sorts this out. East facing. The left crag contains most of the routes. The right crag is smaller and scrappier.

Be prepared for hordes of tourists and people telling you you could have just walked up around the left (as you face the crag) side (descent). Bolts for belay (well back). Seepage can be a problem on most routes after prolonged rain. A day of dry weather sorts this out. East facing. The left crag contains most of the routes. The right crag is smaller and scrappier.

Be prepared for hordes of tourists and people telling you you could have just walked up around the left (as you face the crag) side (descent). Bolts for belay (well back). Seepage can be a problem on most routes after prolonged rain. A day of dry weather sorts this out. East facing. The left crag contains most of the routes. The right crag is smaller and scrappier.

Be prepared for hordes of tourists and people telling you you could have just walked up around the left (as you face the crag) side (descent). Bolts for belay (well back). Seepage can be a problem on most routes after prolonged rain. A day of dry weather sorts this out. East facing. The left crag contains most of the routes. The right crag is smaller and scrappier.

Be prepared for hordes of tourists and people telling you you could have just walked up around the left (as you face the crag) side (descent). Bolts for belay (well back). Seepage can be a problem on most routes after prolonged rain. A day of dry weather sorts this out. East facing. The left crag contains most of the routes. The right crag is smaller and scrappier.

Be prepared for hordes of tourists and people telling you you could have just walked up around the left (as you face the crag) side (descent). Bolts for belay (well back). Seepage can be a problem on most routes after prolonged rain. A day of dry weather sorts this out. East facing. The left crag contains most of the routes. The right crag is smaller and scrappier.

This line is on the left of the buttress. Climb up via a ledge system, keeping a holly tree on your left.

A small but worthwhile crag on the east side of the valley in an attractive wooded setting. Plenty of interest for the HVS climber.

The true line that cuffs crap starts up. Instead of escaping right into the corner system with the tree stump, continue leftwards to climb the intimidating overhanging v-groove which is easier than it looks. Excellent protection. (Direct: Climb the white wall and overhang direct on positive side pulls. Bold start. E1 5b B. Hall, J. Hale)

Start under the overhanging corner on the left hand side of the crag. Climb the steps up to the corner (above the tree), finishing up the corner.

The obvious line to the right of Cuff's Crap. Climb on good holds to a small overhang, surmount this and move slightly right, then climb over a bulge on the corner to the top

Start 1m right of The Black Stuff under a small white-stained overhang. Climb straight to the ledge, then up and step onto a small ledge. Move up and right to the top. VARIATION: Instead of moving right continue up the left-facing corner (VS 4c).

Start under a square block (about 3m up). Climb over this and continue straight up to the ledge. Finish as for Miss Piggy. Poor protection.

Start 1m left of the arete left of Miss Piggy. Climb to the overhang (good wire around corner on right) and straight to the top.

Climb the obvious corner (left of Titanic) to the ledge, then traverse left for 1.5m and climb the obvious crack to the top.

Start 0.5m (!) left of The Revolution Has Begun and go up to groove. Then onto good jug. Mantleshelf onto the crux move (crimp) and then work towards tree on horizontal cracks. Break onto arete. Poor gear on top section but good at bottom, mostly friends.

Boulder start off the horizontal crack of A7. Reach diagonally up left to a horizontal hold, then straight to top via good crimps. Protection is small aliens and red HB offset brassie, all good.

Short but steep. Climb the hand crack on the right hand side of the crag.

Climb the thin line 2-3m to the right of Titanic.