30m (E3) The start is beaconed. Climb the left-hand side of the recss to a
tree about 16m up. Continue up for a further 17m to a small stance with a tree
belay.
35m (F2) Continue up the recess to a large stance with a tree belay. Hand-jam
up the right-hand side of the crack to the level of a projecting slab. Traverse
to the left and then continue up to a large stance with a tree belay. Beware of
loose rock.
20m (F1) Climb the right-hand side of the recess, using a narrow wedge move,
to reach a large stance with a tree belay.
20m (F2) From the beacon on the stance traverse to the right for 10m to a
right-angled crack. Climb straight up the crack for a further 10m, or
alternatively climb straight up for 5m, traverse to the left for about 3m on a
dassie traverse, move over an exposed drop and climb up and back into the crack. From here walk directly across the grass band to the next recess.
27m (E1) Climb straight up to a tree. Move to the left and continue climbing
to a square edged ledge stance.
20m (E3) Climb up the chimney, moving outwards over the overhang. Continue up
to a fairly narrow ledge stance with a boulder belay.
25m (F3) Ascend the left-hand side of the recess, then 3m below the overhang
traverse to the right-hand side of the recess. Now move up and out to the right to get out of the overhang. Continue a further 7m upwards bearing to the right
to a large stance with a tree belay.
10m (F3) Two variations are possible:
(F3) Mount the first 2m in the
corner, then traverse 2m to the right. Using a knee-jam and hugging
pincer-grips, mount a awkward bulge and continue up to a large tree.
(F2) Mount the first 2m in the corner, then traverse to the left along the
ledge to an open book topped by an overhang. Layback up the open book, swing
around to the right and then move up to the tree.
60m (D) Climb to top.
FA:K. Bennetts, T. Kerrich, M. Cramphorn & L. Klingmann, 1962
Shares pitches 1 and 2 with Exposure: On the same buttress as Prelude there are two prominent cracks in the form of a V. Start just to the right of the left arm
of a smaller inverted V cone, which is just to the left of the junction of the
large V cracks.
27m (E1) Ascend an obvious route, about 3m to the right of the recess, for
13m. Move to the left, and then climb up to the next big tree.
13m (F1) Climb diagonally up to the right from the right-hand side of the
stance then climb to a wide grass band. Walk to the right to the front of the
right-hand crack and scramble up to a large tree.
25m (F3) Climb up the main crack to a ledge.
7m (G1) Ascend the overhanging crack to a large block belay. If this pitch is done with the aid of a shoulder it is F3.
23m (F2) Climb 13m in the crack to a ledge. Here there are three
alternatives:
(F1) Move to the left across and up to a ledge for 2m. Climb the overhang
for10m to a ledge. Block belay in corner.
(G1) Climb the overhanging crack, on rotten rock, to a belay.
(F3) Move up to a narrow horizontal crack. Dassie-traverse to the nose.
Climb up the nose to a belay.
25m (F3 A0) Climb up the crack for 5m, then using a shoulder for aid to
overcome the bulge, continue to a large block 13m higher. Move diagonally to the
left for 7m to a large ledge where there is a good belay.
27m (E2) Continue up to the left for 17m on easier ground, then climb the
recess for 10m to a ledge using a piton belay.
17m (E1) Move down a few metres and then traverse to the left. Continue up
13m to the left to a large block.
13m (E1) Move up a few meters, traverse to the left for 7m, and the climb
straight up for 5m to a ledge where there is a block belay.
37m (F1) Several alternatives become possible, zigzagging up ledges to a ledge directly above the previous stance where there is a block belay (poor protection).
Move into the corner and climb grade-D rock for two rope lengths to the top.
On the same buttress as Prelude there are two prominent cracks in the form of a
V. Start just to the right of the left arm of a smaller inverted V cone, which is just to the left of the junction of the large V cracks.
27m (E1) Ascend an obvious route, about 3m to the right of the recess, for
13m. Move to the left, and then climb up to the next big tree.
13m (F1) Climb diagonally up to the right from the right-hand side of the
stance then climb to a wide grass band. Walk to the right to the front of the
right-hand crack and scramble up to a large tree.
30m (F1) Climb 3m up the crack behind the tree. Move to the right for 4m and then climb the right-hand side of the recess. Piton belays are necessary and
loose rock presents a hazard.
40m (E2) Here the route is suitable beaconed. Traverse on a ledge out onto
the right-hand face. Mantelshelf onto the next ledge and then ascend the centre
of the face passing two beacons en route. Traverse to the left back to another beacon, ascend the recess for 1m and then traverse to the right back to the centre of the face. Carry on straight up to a large stance.
30m (F1) From the back of the stance, ascend for 3m before traversing to the left to a right-angled crack. Climb a tricky 3m and continue to the left to a
tree in a recess about 5m below a large overhang. Move to the left on an obvious
and very exposed ledge. Either 'dassie traverse' on this ledge or climb up 1m to
the next ledge and traverse on finger tips to a boulder belay point.
33m (E2) Zig-zag up an exposed face using a series of mantelshelf moves to
reach a good stance with a cairn on it.
43m (D) Move diagonally off to the right for 13m. Easily scramble to the top.
