The route starts on the right-hand side of the main amphitheatre, in a crack system on the left-hand side of a pillar, above some trees. The line traverses the grey ramps above Apollo, and breaks through the roofs to the right of that route and below a prominent 'V'.
Scramble up to where the climbing begins steepening.
Climb the crack, moving left past a horrendous layback and make a hanging belay where a line of incut holds lead out left.
Traverse left. Move around some flakes and step down onto a block to continue traversing left until possible to move and back right to a blocky stance.
Climb up for 5m to where a finger-rail allows a traverse left into a corner. A tricky move up and left gains a rest, from where further traversing 15m left allows climbing up and back right to a stance.
Climb up on the right. Pull through a small bulge. Move up and traverse right to a stance.
Stand up on the block and pull up to the handrail. Rail left and pull through the roof on layback holds. at the next rail traverse left to a small stance.
Traverse left and move up to the roof. Climb out to the lip past two pegs, and continue to a stance.
Climb up on the right. Continue straight up and traverse right along the slab. The final two pitches are as for Apollo.
Climb into the chimney and continue up, exiting left. Walk across to the top of the ramp on the right.
Move up and traverse right onto the main face. Climb the jugs tending rightwards to the top.
Descent: scrambling and two rappels down the gully between the main and the right-hand turret leads directly back to the start of the traverse line.
Start: Take off from the Snotter Camp up the easy ramp just left of the water drums.
12 (30m). Find your way to a wide ledge which is shared with Timerity and Another Fck’n Time.
17 (25m). Start up the recess. After 5m, traverse left 5m to round the awkward bulge. Do not stray into the cClimb the clean face above by staying left of the corner, to a rising traverse eft on the best holds before the angle increases. Stance around the corner in the obvious deep recess.
20 (20m). Climb up the right wall of the recess and crank on to the arete. Continue to the overhang above and move left to climb more easily to a ledge with bolted anchors on the last Timerity Abseil.
18 (35m). Climb directly up above the bolts to the overlap and crank through on the right to a large ledge. Climb the grey-black arete on the right side (in common with Timerity) to below the bushy gulley. Move left and climb the left leaning ramp to a ledge. Belay at the abseil bolts on Timerity.
18 (20m). Climb the left leaning ramp past the overhang and then step right to attain a left leaning crack. Climb this for a metre or two and then leave the crack to climb up the face to a small standing ledge.
25(20m). Climb up the slightly left leaning grey break to where the rock becomes yellow and orange to an obvious under-cling. Do tricky move up and right to the overhang. Place small good cams and move left two metres. Crank the crux on thin holds and continue to a good rail. (Small cams). Finish easily to stance in the shady walk-off cave on blocks.
???26 (40) WORK in progress. The Brotality Roof.
Walk left about 40m and stance at the same place as Timerity 6th pitch. Find your way to the roof and fight your way through it with or without aid moves.
FA:Jimbo Smith, Garreth Bird, Luke Eberhardt & Charles Edelstein, 9월 2017
The best way to find the start is to have a good look at the photograph. It starts almost directly below the rectangular overhang in the middle of the Amphitheatre. Above at about 5m is a shallow left facing corner.
25m 22
Climb up the corner until it gets to a tenuous stemming move. Continue up to a ledge on blocks. Or move left across the slab on good holds to a crack system and continue to the rail. Move back right to the blocks and then from the right side continue up the overlap above. Diagonal up left and do a tricky move into the short right facing corner to a good belay.
35m 25
Climb up to the rectangular overhang and then swing out left onto a thin rail. Have some tiny cams ready. Crank up and then do a tenuous stemming move to get to the easier ground below the large left facing corner. Continue up the corner with some funky moves to a rail under the overhang and rail right onto the exposed arete. Climb straight up from the edge to a rail about 4m above. Move right a couple of meters and then head diagonally up right on a low angle slab. Belay on a good ledge on the left.
22
Climb directly up heading for the large left facing red corner. Place good gear where available as it becomes run out. Once in the corner go right on a gnarly gray rail. Move into the corner systems up to the right and climb up to a large ledge on the right.
21
Step up off the left edge of the ledge and continue up the crack system for 55m to the halfway ledge.
16
Walk left and climb up easy blocks to a ledge that is down and to the left of the obvious nose visible 20 m above.
Alternative Pitch 5: 22
Climb the steep crack up to the left for 2 or 3 metres and then step right onto the red/orange face. Continue up to the shallow right facing corner and then exit left of the overhang on dodgy rock to continue a few meters to a rail. Rail right to a good stance,
21
Climb the crack system to a hanging stance about 22m higher just before the steep right dihedral. If there are 3 climbers, then one may as well stay at the stance at the beginning of the pitch while the other clears the gear which is needed for pitch 7. Do not stance at the slightly lower ledge as it is less comfortable.
23 Climb up to the rail and move right (small cams). Then move back left and pull onto the huge scary flake. Climb up this to the overhang and then step out left. Climb the overhanging crack system to where it eases. Move up left onto a ramp but climb straight through higher up by under-clinging the overhang. Do not escape up and left up the ramp which looks easier. It is dirty and horrible. Move up diagonally right to a rail and stance on the right on a sitting ledge. If you are short of gear, there is a thread point after the crux.
Step right across the gap and climb the classic crack for 10m or so. Then diagonal out left and up the face (run out) to a large ledge system.
The route offers great quality climbing particularly from pitch 3. After making the halfway ledge, we found that other climbers had nabbed our intended continuation. After making a few abortive (and white-knuckle) attempts at a direct continuation, we eventually, in African Time, meandered towards other parts of the wall to resume our route on less-crowded rock.
The route starts approximately 40m left of Armageddon Time and about 10 meters right of a big flat boulder surrounded by Wild Peach trees. This is almost directly below the left hand edge of the large stepped roofs of Armageddon’s third pitch. The route follows close to a fairly obvious, vegetated, chossy looking, straight-line break that runs up the first half of the wall at about 10 degrees left of vertical. At the third pitch it rails right (through the large left-facing corner) and continues up a clean crack line that runs parallel and about 8 meters right of the main vegetated break.
45m, (20) This pitch starts up easy ground (loose flakes) in the very shallow recess, which forms the start of the break. Continue on small holds up the steepest part of the seam past an old peg. Higher up, pull steeply to a small bushy ledge. Follow the main vegetated vertical break above for about 10 meters, to where it steepens. Rail left at an orange patch of rock below a small roof and up, to stance on a good ledge in a recess (gear for the stance can be found several meters further up).
35m, (20) From the ledge climb a few meters up and right to a small ledge. Climb a steep, reachy finger crack for several meters until it is possible to step out right onto the arête. Climb the arête to a ledge at the bottom left of the large Armageddon roofs. From the ledge step left across the vegetated recess and then up it for about 10 meters to a hanging stance at the level of the first, thin rail that goes out right, across the overhanging, leftwards facing wall.
30m (22). Rail right for 5 meters to the skyline arête. The rail is thinnest at the start (crux) and widens later. Move up 5 meters to a ledge. Then climb up past a small roof (thin), and up to gain the clean, leftwards-trending crack up to a big, comfortable ledge.
45m (21). The route continues straight up the clean, leftwards tending crack line about 6 meters in from the left hand edge of the ledge. Climb this through layback moves, and two small roofs, to continue above leftwards around a small, blunt arête into less steep ground in a recess. Stem up the steep crack to gain a good rail 5 meters higher. Move up and slightly right to finish up a layback and thin face moves (the sting in the tail) to gain the halfway ledge.
The route continues way over to the right (towards Smalblaar Ridge). Walk along the ledge past Armageddon and the exposed step-over. Approximately 15 meters beyond this is an obvious break, where a steep vertical, very grassed-up crack leads into a roof. Three meters right of this is a leftwards tending, thin finger crack which runs up to the right hand side of the roof.
45m, (23). Climb the finger crack. Follow the wider crack above, through another roof and straight up to a big ledge.
35m, (25). Continue straight up the line of the last pitch for about 5 meters. Trend left on small ledges and faces to reach the base of the obvious overhanging crack just left of the big corner. Climb the crack (crux) and go left to a ledge above.
25m, (22). Go left along the ledge for about 3 meters. Climb the vertical finger crack, through 2 small roofs. Traverse a few meters left across the face above to gain (thin) a crack that is followed easily up to a ledge below a roof.
30m, (21). Climb the overhanging chimney / crack through the roof from the ledge (hard), into thin cracks in a face above and then straight up to a ledge. Climb one of the water runnels on the next face up to the top.
Descent
EITHER walk right to the gulley between Smalblaar ridge and the chesspieces. This involves three short abseils.
Start: At the clump of trees against the wall at the top right. Begin by scrambling up on the left over easy broken grey rock.
There are two key features. One pitch below the halfway ledge is an enormous roof, perhaps the biggest on the amphitheatre, which the route turns on the right. Above the halfway ledge lie three vertical fins. The route uses the left one.
35m 19: Head up and right to an obvious vertical crack. Start up this crack then angle up leftwards to a whitish-yellow recess below a small roof. Get around the roof on the right then head straight up a crack to just a few metres below the big, long roof system. Stance on a small ledge a few metres off to the left, alternatively combine with the next pitch into one.
20m 20: Move back to the crack system then traverse right on a steep orange wall that has an obvious big rail and pockets on the face. At 7m the rail turns round a corner and ends. Out of sight of the belayer keep traversing at the same level but now on dark rock under a roof for a further 5m. On an open face continue traversing right for another 6m until reaching a crack system leading up. Head up to the big ledge.
Walk along the ledge to the right. Pass the white sandy corner after 4 metres and continue another 4 metres to a break in the roof. Stance here.
15m 19: Crank through the roof and head straight up the clean crack to reach a ledge.
40m 22: On the ledge move left for a couple of metres then step over the void. Climb up the sustained and unrelenting crack including overcoming a couple of small roofs. Do a long pitch to reach a small ledge on the left about six metres below the Great Roof.
15m 22: To the right is a steep and intimidating reddish face. Head up and right on this overhanging face to reach a big undercling flake. Up this flake then the crack above it to reach the roof where it ends on the right. Turn the corner of the roof to get onto a small ledge.
35m 19: Straight up for a few metres then move out leftwards for a couple of metres to gain a little crack system that heads up the clean grey faces that are directly above the enormous roof. Beautiful face climbing takes you to the halfway ledge. Get on top of the large platform to stance. (The Armageddon crux pitch is immediately left)
30m 25, A1: On the platform move up and across to the right. Directly above is a big crack system with a massive protruding flake. This is the Armageddon Wimp-Out pitch. Judgment Day takes the overhanging orange wall to the right. Head up the unrelenting overhanging wall using the parallel vertical cracks that lead to the grey arête on the right after about 25 metres. Stance around the arête to the right.
45m 20: Nice easy climbing leads directly up for 20 metres to a ledge. Step off the ledge to the left and delicately get up to a rail and gear a few metres higher. Rail 5m right then up cracks and a detached block . Stance a couple of metres above a big chockstone.
30m 19: Climb the bottomless chimney slot with the chockstone wedged in it at the top. Step left and head up the crack system until forced to move left using edges to get across into the offwidth that becomes a perfect finger crack. Head up to the overlap then move a few metres to a comfortable ledge on the left. The ‘Changing Cracks’ pitch. The next pitch can be combined with this one.
25m 16: Climb up to a ledge and step right. Balance up the gearless face for a bit to get to a small horn. Up the magnificent ‘Handlebars’ Pitch to the summit!
Descent: EITHER walk right to the gulley between Smalblaar ridge and the chesspieces. This involves three short abseils.
A sustained voyage with many excellent pitches, exposed positions and a wild finish leaning out over the entire cliff. This is a mixed route: mainly traditional with 24 lead bolts over entire route. It shares 3 bolted stances on A Private Universe (APU) and has additional bolted stances for efficient, inline hauling.
Start: at the large rock pillar leaning against the wall as for APU. The first pitch follows APU and then goes straight where APU continues right. The first pitch is described in detail as alternative breaks in the lower roof are more run-out and scary, and other parties have got lost on this section.
Up the leaning pillar and then continue up and slightly right to gain the narrow roof ~30m up. The break to aim for has a lower section of roof on the left (with a wide crack in its underside) and then another roof ~1m higher on right (see photo). At the lower roof section, rail right for ~1m – slightly grassy but can take a #4 Camalot. Pull back up and left to layback holds and pass the higher right-hand roof section on its left side. At this level, head easily up and right up for few meters, then head straight
up the face to the narrow roof above (~42m above the ground). Move slightly left and then up a vertical crack below a large prominent tree. Bolted haul station to the left of the tree.
Move up and right to above the tree and then more or less straight up to top of the slabs. Single haul bolt below a rail.
(1 bolt) Start slightly left of the anchor up the face to pass the roof on its left side. Follow the arête, often on good holds to the left, past a bolt to the final overlap. Straight up to a bolted APU stance.
(4 bolts) The Pyramid. Starting slightly right, move left to the bolt and up the thin seam to a ledge. Head diagonally right along the side of the Pyramid (#4 Camalot useful) to the apex. Pull up onto the steep, blunt arête passing 3 bolts, then slightly left to a small, right-facing corner. Exit the top of
corner to the left (cams at ankle height) and traverse left a few meters until able to mantle up to a ledge with double bolt anchor.
(3 bolts) Climb up past 2 bolts to a roof above a shale band. The second bolt can either be climbed straight with a reachy move or to the right on crimps. At the roof, move left and pull through at the third bolt. Continue up ~5m to belay at a narrow ledge with a finger rail 2.5 m higher up (#0.4 to
#0.5 Camalot size required).
(4 bolts) Head up and left to the base of the arête (bolt). Pull around the arete and pass 3 more bolts, exiting right at the top of the corner. Step back left to a large left facing corner (optional stance) and then follow the weakness up and right to arrive at the bolted APU anchor on the far-left side of the
Private Bivy (APU takes a lower rising traverse to the middle of the Private Bivy).
(1 bolt) The Boulder Move. From the anchor on the far-left side of the left-hand bivy ledge, boulder past the bolt, then straight up into the corner crack to a narrow ledge (small to medium cams).
Traverse right for ~2m and then diagonally up right on easiest line to the rail below the roof. Rail right for ~10m, passing under the steep, wide crack on APU to an airy perch with a rail for small to medium cams. It is possible to use similar gear in the rail and to step down and right ~2m to another
narrow ledge for a more comfortable stance.
Start up a finger crack to the right of the perch stance and step back left to a prong above the belay. Navigate the steep recess to a rail under an overlap. Traverse left to the 3 bolt anchor on APU.
Traverse left on a good foot ledge, under the bolts on APU. Continue left, stepping down a level and then back up to a left- facing groove. Pull up the wide crack and left onto the face, then traverse a few meters further left to a bolted stance.
(3 bolts) Step right and then up past two bolts to a ledge. Climb the steep, fierce crack to a bolted stance above a small ledge (this is the right end of the Moonshine Cave – possible bivy).
(2 bolts) Tricky moves off the anchor past a bolt and small cam placement to a rail. Carry on up and then slightly left to the 3 bolt stance on APU (possible bivy on the Long Ledge to the right). Tend up and left (APU goes right) passing one more bolt to a big ledge with good rail for finger size cams. The
Moonshine Ledge can be accessed by traversing ~25m left – lower out and haul bags if sleeping there.
This pitch wanders a bit and requires careful rope management (see photo). Directly above stance is a grey, left facing corner. Climb this until you find a wide gash that breaks off to the right. Follow this to a rail. Traverse right a few meters to some good vertical slots. Pull up to a rail, then traverse right again to an orange bulge. Up to a rail (APU bolts even further right), then traverse back left to a right facing recess. Finish up this to a broad ledge. Here, APU bolts go up and right, but move
left and stance (finger to medium size cams) below the steep bolted face.
(4 bolts) The Sport Pitch. Fly up the overhanging face past 4 bolts to a rail at the roof. Traverse left until able to pull up onto easier ground. Step right and up to a ledge (bolted anchor). Can be climbed with 4 quickdraws and a handful of finger to medium sized cams.
A stellar pitch of moderate climbing. Start just right of the anchor and tend diagonally right for ~6 m, then tend left across the face aiming for the narrowest break through the overlap (with a semi-attached chock stone). Head straight up towards a small triangular roof, then move left to exit left via a vague diagonal under a slanted roof (see photo). Stance at good horizontal rail ~5m higher at a sloping shelf. To the right on the ledge is another possible bivy.
(2 bolts) Up left to a mantle by a bolt, then up and further left until reaching the large fin shaped rock (Moonshine traverses under it). Step right into the left facing corner with one bolt. Exit onto a sloping shelf and traverse right to a grey left facing recess. Up to the roof and rail right. Either stance at the first narrow ledge (more in line with next pitch) or slightly up and left on a bigger grassy ledge.
Follow the rising weakness on the right with a steep finish onto a grassy ledge.
The Space Cowboy. Start up the corner to reach the roof. Rail ~5m right (#4 Camalot useful) and pull up onto the enormous rib to ride the bronco and the end of the universe. Dismount and finish up and slightly left to find a bolted anchor over the lip.
Notes:
Suggested rack: 60m half ropes and 60m haul line (tag line saves weight for leader). Triple set of cams from micro to #0.5 Camalot, doubles from #0.75 to #3 Camalot and one #4 Camalot. Standard set of wires sufficient.
Hauling: See topo for recommendations. Tie off at each anchor to protect leader in case bags fall off ledges. Fortunately it is possible to do one haul through the Dog Leg. Pitches 7 to 10: a 60m line on the bags left at the Private Bivy can be tied tight at anchor 9 and the leader can trail the remainder of the haul line across the traverse and it just reaches anchor 10.
Sit down start with both hands near the bottom of the diagonal crack (slants down from left to right). Climb up via holds higher up the diagonal crack and crimps on the face above. Top out slightly left of the start position.
Sit Down Start. Left hand in large crescent shaped jug. Right hand in undercling above and right of the left hand start. Climb straight up to top out via the slab above.
Standing Start. Left hand in large crescent shaped jug. Right hand in good undercling above and right of the left hand start. Climb straight up to top out via the slab above.
