접속점
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The Masters Voice
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S
Sweet Dreams Original
Original Description from Bryden Allen (1963) The Rock-Climbs of NSW
Total length 530 ft = 161 m
Goes up the magnificent black wall immediately after the land-slide. Takes an easier and safer line than the original Knights-mare but one is still a aware of some tremendous drops.
Start: On the right hand side of the very large block.
80' (24m) Up the short wall trusting some horrible rock. Onto the ledge then battle up the chimney. Good tree belay.
90' (27m) Up the obvious crack (as in Knights-mare). Lousy rock. A block belay or, much better, a bracket-type bolt belay.
100' (30m) Doddle across the wall to a lousy bolt belay before some small bushes.
90' (27m) Up to the trees. An extremely good piton runner (which is still there) hallfway up. Look back in conceit at having so easily crossed that terrifying looking wall.
110' (33m) Up the gully. Technically the hardest part of the climb and a bolt runner might help. At the top a piton runner then traverse right to tree belay.
60' (18m) Fairly easily up the rotten over hang above to the top.
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16
Corner1
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Rock A and B
Merged two Boulders: Rock A and Rock B
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Whisky Chaser
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Old sublime routes
From BA 1963 and JME 1967 guides
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Odyssey Walls
Start
BA: Up the middle of the wall to the right of
Constipation "Some fine wall climbing on small holds." Last pitch 'traverse easily now into "Constipation" or '"The Belfry" .
JME: Thin crack running up broken wall to right of Constipation. "A pleasant climb on good rock," Last pitch "either left into Constipation or right to finish up Belfry, or put up a direct finish" (was this the Iliad?)
TheCrag: Crack in middle of wall as for 'The Iliad'
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Variant
BA's topo: variant to what? Or is this Oddyssey Walls as the finish is left to Consiptation or right to the Belfry?
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The Belfry
BA: The first 2 pitches can be the same as Kadumba
Gambit. A different start is further to the left.
JME: Left hand side of scrubby wall. (1) and (2) as for Kadumba Gambit, more or less.
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Kadumba Gambit
Sublime 'Kedumba Gambit'[15316333]
BA: On the left· hand side (of the Big Black Wall)
JME: Take the scrubby easy angled wall. Start in the corner chimney recess on the left.
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'Wil's Variation #7
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Levitation Chimney
Sublime 'Levitation Chimney'[15316285]
BA: The obvious chimney· just before the Black Wall.
JME: Immediately before the Big Black Wall.
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The Multipitch
A girdle traverse of the cliff from left to right.
27m. As for Sexton. Bolt anchor.
E2 30m. Up 9m to ledge, traverse right to boulders (junction with Coffin Climb). Continue to bolt anchor of Evens. [K2 30m. Traverse right past Coffin Climb, then up to tree anchor.]
27m. Right into garbage-filled gully; right again across slab to tree-filled gully. Tree anchor.
Wander across juggy wall [K4 across wall to Hocus Pocus #1]
Continue 4. [K5 Continue to Something #2. Tree belay.]
Continue 4.
Continue 4.
Bullet List
- Level 1
** Level 2
- Level 1
- Level 1
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Jack Murphy's Climb
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bens iphone photo
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