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Lime Kiln Canyon
Lime Kiln Canyon is and outstanding limestone limbing area just outside of Mesquite in Nevada. The main wall offers long, mostly vertical and very technical routes on excellent limestone. |
The Grail
The Grail is why you come to Lime Kiln Canyon, an impressive limestone cliff towering above the valley offering technical climbs that require at least a 70m rope and some even an intermediate anchor to reach the ground. |
The Grail |
Routes from right to left
Routes are listed from right to left as you arrive at the wall (the first route you see is the first one in the list) |
Main Wall
The first wall you see and pass when you arrive |
5.10d
Digital Neuropathy
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5.9
Who's there
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5.9
Planned Obsolescence
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5.10a
★ Eminent Domain
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5.10+
★★ Crusade
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5.10c
★ Merely a flesh wound
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5.11b
★★ Last supper
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5.11d
★★ Naysayers
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5.12b
New route 3
New route right of The Serf |
5.11d
★★★ The Serf P1
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5.12a
★★★ The Serf Extension
Climb through good holds to crux below mid station at 35m, continues for last 6 bolts to upper anchor. Sub to get off with 70m rope. AWESOME! 16 bolts and 29m to first anchor |
5.12a
Top Shelf
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5.12b
★★ Total depravity
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5.12d
★★★ The Inquisition
Excellent varied climbing to the first anchor makes a good warmup. |
5.12b/c
★★ I'm not dead yet
Pitch one requires 13 draws |
5.12d
The village idiot
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5.11b
★★ Homeostasis
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5.11b
★ Divine vessel
Four pitches. Crimpy start after some loose looking blocks. It follows a white streak up the wall. • 1) 11b** The first pitch is a decent warm-up, 20m • 2) not defined yet • 3) 11b • 4) 11b |
5.11d
★★ Felicity
Pitch 1: 30m and 11 bolts |
5.11c
Holy hand granade
Pack out what you pack in, including your human waste! |
5.12c
★★ Raven nation
There are two variants at the top |
5.12c
Walk the squawk
Same first 2 pitches as Raven nation, splits at bolt 6 in the overhang |
5.12c
Squawk the walk
Same first 2 pitches a Raven nation, splits further right from Walk the squawk |
Project 1
New route just left of of Raven Nation |
5.13a
★★ Voyager one
Branches off Magnum Opus before that route gets hard. There is also a new direct start |
5.13c
Magnum Opus
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5.13a/b
★★ Hoarse Platitudes
Starts on Mantis and goes right. |
5.12c
★★★ Mantis
Fun 5.11 climbing to a no hands rest. Left-ward cracks lead to a shake and then to thin, defined crux. Rest on another big pod system for the technical, slabby finish moves up and left to anchors. Perma draws after the first anchor (for lowering, good warmup to there). Bring 6 draws. |
5.11c
★ mini mantis
Climb up through good cherts and two holes past 5 bolts to the first anchor of Mantis. |
5.12d
★★ Honeycomb
Lots of sequential crimps to the crux at the 100ft mark. Find the honeycomb in the alcove. Perma draws starting at bolt 5. Share anchor with either Mantis or Homo Faber. |
5.12c/d
★★ Homo Faber
Crimpy, technical with a couple of distinct crux sections. Perma draws starting at bolt 5. Was graded 5.13a before. |
5.12a
★★★ Mesquiter
Starts on a slight bulge. Multiple cruxes and rests. All bolts except the first 4 have perma draws. |
5.11d
★★ Swamp king
P1: 26m, 12 bolts P2: 10 bolts P3: unknown grade |
Blue goodness sector
Starts about where the path starts climbing again |
5.11d
★★ Sangreal
Pack out what you pack in, including your human waste! |
5.12b/c
★★★ The Goodness
Starts on slab to slightly overhanging headwall of nearly perfect rock. |
5.12b
★★ The The
Variation of The Goodness, shares start and anchor |
5.11d
★★★ The Madness
The name of the climb is written in sharpie. Can be used as alternate start for The The. |
5.12a
★★ The Sadness
Slab Fun! |
5.11c
★★★ Khaleesi
Pack out what you pack in, including your human waste! |
5.11d
★★ Darkness and Charm
2 pitch route, some find this route tricky |
5.11c
★★★ Excalibur
Same anchor as Darkness and Charm |
5.10d
★★ Mandate for the masses
Starts just right of the pillar and the big crack with the bushes. |
5.10b/c
No ordinary rabbit
Gray rock, climbs a small corner system. Kind of sharp holds. Starts on the right side of the pillar. |
5.11b
Sky club
Optional start for Vesper on the left side of the pillar (right of the big crack) |
Alcove right
Starts with the wall where Vesper is located and continues into the alcove (right wall) |
5.13c/d
Air france
Direct start into Vesper |
5.12b
★★ Vesper
two pitch climb • 1) 11d starts next to Alchemist , 9 bolts • 2) 12b (follows diagonal crack on upper headwall) As the first pitch traverses quite a bit to the right it is recommended to clean the first pitch by seconding it to the rapell anchor which is at a nice ledge to belay for pitch 2. |
5.11c
Alchemist
climbs right of large hole, smae start as Vesper |
5.11c
The Ballrog
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5.12a
The way of the peaceful bolter
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5.12b
The way of the peaceful warrior
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5.11b/c
★★ No ordinary moments
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5.10c
★★★ Unknown nice corner
Second route left of the yellowish rock just left of No ordinary moments with which it shares the anchor |
5.11b
★ Freezer burn
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5.10c
★★ Who's your daddy
Shares anchor with Freezer Burn |
5.10b
★★ Sweeping sickness
Starts with the first 3 bolts of Who's your Daddy and uses 5 bolts to link into the last 2 bolts and anchor of Band Camp |
5.10b
★★ Band camp
Pack out what you pack in, including your human waste! |
5.10a
★ Madam butterfly
Last route on the right side of the alcove |
Alcove left
Starts in the alcove on the left side and continues left until you reach Canyon Right Side |
5.12b
★★ Farcical Aquatic Ceremony
Shares anchor with Greyhound |
5.12a
★★ Greyhound
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5.12a
Prodigy
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5.11d
Hearts of Palm
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5.11d
Abandon All Hope
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5.11c
★★★ City Dweller
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5.11b
★ Watery Tart
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5.9
Sacrificial Shrubbery
first 2 bolt with 5. 9 next route |
5.9
5.9
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5.9
Much Rejoicing
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5.9
Eckie ,
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5.9
Nee
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The Sacred Trust
The left section has a set of easy multi pitch climbs, the right one easier single pitch climbs. The rock is not as good as at The Grail but still nice. |
The Sacred Trust |
Unknown 1
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5.12c
The Horror Show
P1: 5.6 climb easy slap clipping one bolt at the 8 meter and continue belay anchors another 8 meters up or link into p2. P2:5.8 climb the slappy face through mantles and bulges to anchors at the base of a right facing dihedral . P3 :5.9 follow dihedral up to exit move left .Finish at the first set of anchor on ledge . p? Easy traverse passing one set of rap anchors to a belay station below an orange face . P4 :511c good side pulls and jugs .Finish on a block that forms a narrow ledge. P5:5.12c sharp easy climb to roof Traverse right to rappel anchors. |
Variation
Shares the 2 pitches with the horror show |
5.11a
Secret Tryst
P1:510b 25 meters P2:5.10c 25 meters P3 :5.11b 30 meters P4:5.11a 25 meters P5 :15 meters P6:5.10d 25 meters |
5.10c
★★ Simple Truths
P1:5.10b 8bolt 22 meters P2:5.10b 11 bolts 25 meters P3:5.10c 6 bolts 13 meters P4:5.10c 7 bolts 20 meters P5: |
5.10a
★★★ Office Party
P1:5.8 P2:5.8 P3:5.6 P4:5.9 P5:5.8 P6:5.10a |
5.10a
★★ Mystery Companion
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5.9
Choss Buster
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5.12c
Ace of Sharts
P1 10 bolts P2 6 bolts |
Canyon Right Side
The routes in the canyon are mostly slabby and vertical on good quality grey limestone. With some exceptions routes are in the shade most of the day. |
Canyon Right Side |
5.8
Boom Shakalaka
Starts left of the alcove far up canyon. |
5.9
Melted Soup
p1 : 7 bolts p2 : 12 bolts |
5.7
★ Pink
Pack out what you pack in, including your human waste! |
5.8
Vajazzling
Right of the corner |
5.7
★ Bad kitty
Above pink and left of Vajazzling |
5.10
Top Shot
Above bad kitty |
5.6
Blue Waffle
Straight above Vajazzling.. |
5.9
Shine Like a Disco Ball
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5.10a
Slack Jawed
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5.10
All that is solid melts into air
Right variation above Blue waffle and ShineLike a Disco Ball. |
5.11b
Patience
p1 :11b,p2Just right and slightly below the alcove anchor of Shine like a disco ball |
5.10
Triple Shot
p1 : 5.10. P2 one Bourbon 5.8 /5.10 left variation.P2 one scotch 5.11 /5.8 middle var. p2 :One Beer 5.10 right var . |
5.8
★ Quicklime
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