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Lime Kiln Canyon

Lime Kiln Canyon is and outstanding limestone limbing area just outside of Mesquite in Nevada. The main wall offers long, mostly vertical and very technical routes on excellent limestone.

The Grail

The Grail is why you come to Lime Kiln Canyon, an impressive limestone cliff towering above the valley offering technical climbs that require at least a 70m rope and some even an intermediate anchor to reach the ground.

The Grail
Routes from right to left

Routes are listed from right to left as you arrive at the wall (the first route you see is the first one in the list)

Main Wall

The first wall you see and pass when you arrive

5.10d Digital Neuropathy

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5.9 Who's there

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5.9 Planned Obsolescence

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5.10a Eminent Domain

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5.10+ Crusade

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5.10c Merely a flesh wound

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5.11b Last supper

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5.11d Naysayers

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5.12b New route 3

New route right of The Serf

5.11d The Serf P1

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5.12a The Serf Extension

Climb through good holds to crux below mid station at 35m, continues for last 6 bolts to upper anchor. Sub to get off with 70m rope. AWESOME! 16 bolts and 29m to first anchor

5.12a Top Shelf

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5.12b Total depravity

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5.12d The Inquisition

Excellent varied climbing to the first anchor makes a good warmup.

5.12b/c I'm not dead yet

Pitch one requires 13 draws

5.12d The village idiot

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5.11b Homeostasis

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5.11b Divine vessel

Four pitches. Crimpy start after some loose looking blocks. It follows a white streak up the wall. • 1) 11b** The first pitch is a decent warm-up, 20m • 2) not defined yet • 3) 11b • 4) 11b

5.11d Felicity

Pitch 1: 30m and 11 bolts

5.11c Holy hand granade

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5.12c Raven nation
  • first pitch is a lot of fun on its own, 10 bolts, 26m
  • pitch 2: 15 bolts
  • pitch 3: 15 bolts

There are two variants at the top

5.12c Walk the squawk

Same first 2 pitches as Raven nation, splits at bolt 6 in the overhang

5.12c Squawk the walk

Same first 2 pitches a Raven nation, splits further right from Walk the squawk

Project 1

New route just left of of Raven Nation

5.13a Voyager one

Branches off Magnum Opus before that route gets hard. There is also a new direct start

5.13c Magnum Opus

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5.13a/b Hoarse Platitudes

Starts on Mantis and goes right.

5.12c Mantis

Fun 5.11 climbing to a no hands rest. Left-ward cracks lead to a shake and then to thin, defined crux. Rest on another big pod system for the technical, slabby finish moves up and left to anchors. Perma draws after the first anchor (for lowering, good warmup to there). Bring 6 draws.

5.11c mini mantis

Climb up through good cherts and two holes past 5 bolts to the first anchor of Mantis.

5.12d Honeycomb

Lots of sequential crimps to the crux at the 100ft mark. Find the honeycomb in the alcove. Perma draws starting at bolt 5. Share anchor with either Mantis or Homo Faber.

5.12c/d Homo Faber

Crimpy, technical with a couple of distinct crux sections. Perma draws starting at bolt 5. Was graded 5.13a before.

5.12a Mesquiter

Starts on a slight bulge. Multiple cruxes and rests. All bolts except the first 4 have perma draws.

5.11d Swamp king

P1: 26m, 12 bolts P2: 10 bolts P3: unknown grade

Blue goodness sector

Starts about where the path starts climbing again

5.11d Sangreal

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5.12b/c The Goodness

Starts on slab to slightly overhanging headwall of nearly perfect rock.

5.12b The The

Variation of The Goodness, shares start and anchor

5.11d The Madness

The name of the climb is written in sharpie. Can be used as alternate start for The The.

5.12a The Sadness

Slab Fun!

5.11c Khaleesi

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5.11d Darkness and Charm

2 pitch route, some find this route tricky

5.11c Excalibur

Same anchor as Darkness and Charm

5.10d Mandate for the masses

Starts just right of the pillar and the big crack with the bushes.

5.10b/c No ordinary rabbit

Gray rock, climbs a small corner system. Kind of sharp holds. Starts on the right side of the pillar.

5.11b Sky club

Optional start for Vesper on the left side of the pillar (right of the big crack)

Alcove right

Starts with the wall where Vesper is located and continues into the alcove (right wall)

5.13c/d Air france

Direct start into Vesper

5.12b Vesper

two pitch climb • 1) 11d starts next to Alchemist , 9 bolts • 2) 12b (follows diagonal crack on upper headwall) As the first pitch traverses quite a bit to the right it is recommended to clean the first pitch by seconding it to the rapell anchor which is at a nice ledge to belay for pitch 2.

5.11c Alchemist

climbs right of large hole, smae start as Vesper

5.11c The Ballrog

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5.12a The way of the peaceful bolter

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5.12b The way of the peaceful warrior

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5.11b/c No ordinary moments

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5.10c Unknown nice corner

Second route left of the yellowish rock just left of No ordinary moments with which it shares the anchor

5.11b Freezer burn

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5.10c Who's your daddy

Shares anchor with Freezer Burn

5.10b Sweeping sickness

Starts with the first 3 bolts of Who's your Daddy and uses 5 bolts to link into the last 2 bolts and anchor of Band Camp

5.10b Band camp

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5.10a Madam butterfly

Last route on the right side of the alcove

Alcove left

Starts in the alcove on the left side and continues left until you reach Canyon Right Side

5.12b Farcical Aquatic Ceremony

Shares anchor with Greyhound

5.12a Greyhound

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5.12a Prodigy

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5.11d Hearts of Palm

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5.11d Abandon All Hope

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5.11c City Dweller

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5.11b Watery Tart

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5.9 Sacrificial Shrubbery

first 2 bolt with 5. 9 next route

5.9 5.9

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5.9 Much Rejoicing

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5.9 Eckie ,

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5.9 Nee

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The Sacred Trust

The left section has a set of easy multi pitch climbs, the right one easier single pitch climbs. The rock is not as good as at The Grail but still nice.

The Sacred Trust
Unknown 1

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5.12c The Horror Show

P1: 5.6 climb easy slap clipping one bolt at the 8 meter and continue belay anchors another 8 meters up or link into p2. P2:5.8 climb the slappy face through mantles and bulges to anchors at the base of a right facing dihedral . P3 :5.9 follow dihedral up to exit move left .Finish at the first set of anchor on ledge . p? Easy traverse passing one set of rap anchors to a belay station below an orange face . P4 :511c good side pulls and jugs .Finish on a block that forms a narrow ledge. P5:5.12c sharp easy climb to roof Traverse right to rappel anchors.

Variation

Shares the 2 pitches with the horror show

5.11a Secret Tryst

P1:510b 25 meters P2:5.10c 25 meters P3 :5.11b 30 meters P4:5.11a 25 meters P5 :15 meters P6:5.10d 25 meters

5.10c Simple Truths

P1:5.10b 8bolt 22 meters P2:5.10b 11 bolts 25 meters P3:5.10c 6 bolts 13 meters P4:5.10c 7 bolts 20 meters P5:

5.10a Office Party

P1:5.8 P2:5.8 P3:5.6 P4:5.9 P5:5.8 P6:5.10a

5.10a Mystery Companion

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5.9 Choss Buster

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5.12c Ace of Sharts

P1 10 bolts P2 6 bolts

Canyon Right Side

The routes in the canyon are mostly slabby and vertical on good quality grey limestone. With some exceptions routes are in the shade most of the day.

Canyon Right Side
5.8 Boom Shakalaka

Starts left of the alcove far up canyon.

5.9 Melted Soup

p1 : 7 bolts p2 : 12 bolts

5.7 Pink

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5.8 Vajazzling

Right of the corner

5.7 Bad kitty

Above pink and left of Vajazzling

5.10 Top Shot

Above bad kitty

5.6 Blue Waffle

Straight above Vajazzling..

5.9 Shine Like a Disco Ball

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5.10a Slack Jawed

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5.10 All that is solid melts into air

Right variation above Blue waffle and ShineLike a Disco Ball.

5.11b Patience

p1 :11b,p2Just right and slightly below the alcove anchor of Shine like a disco ball

5.10 Triple Shot

p1 : 5.10. P2 one Bourbon 5.8 /5.10 left variation.P2 one scotch 5.11 /5.8 middle var. p2 :One Beer 5.10 right var .

5.8 Quicklime

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