Vias em Bowens Creek

A nice slab leads to jug hauling.

Start slightly left of the first bolt and up seam to roof. Through this and then haul to glory.

Shared start with Bull Dozer for 2 bolts, then the right line.

A hard crimpy start leads to nice headwall.

Same first 3 bolts of Walter Mitty then direct through the roof.

Start 3m right of DB. Bouldery start past first two rings. Up and out through roof, next bolt diagonally right (careful not to link onto DB after roof). Up easy ground to lower offs. A little runout in some places if this is your grade. Be careful with rope length.

Left hand route off the ledge, 5m L of the top of the fixed rope. Shared start with RB.

26 in the guidebook.

Far left hand route.

An ok looking blunt black arete just left of a ferny crack, about 15m R of MP, but it'll probably need a brush. 24 in the guidebook...

Good but can seep a bit up high.

Great climbing on some lovely rock. Stick clip advisable. 2nd and 3rd clips aren't hard but deserve respect from both leader and belayer as the bolt spacing leaves no margin.

2nd clip is easy ground but certain groundfall, take care. Crux has shed a few holds but there's plenty left and it still goes.

Take care with the 2nd clip, its on easier ground but it would be a certain groundfall.

Has been linked into StG at the 3rd bolt, but it's a mystery why.

Climb left leaning flake/ramp, then head toward obvious arete. Finishes at anchors just left from the top of the arete.

The steep headwall above StG. A good climb that packs a lot of climbing into such a short distance. You will need to extend a couple of the draws on StG and most of the draws on FmF in order to reduce the rope drag. Both hands over the top to claim victory.

Best warm up here.

Left hand variant of TBfO. Hard crux surrounded by great climbing. Backjump or tramline to rethread the rings under the roof.

Beautiful face, roof, and rightward traverse. Staple and bolt anchor. Back clean the traverse until the 2 rings at start of roof. Rethread left to right to clean face normally.

The low crux looks quite mingin' but actually climbs very well.

Short flake to start. Finishes up left above small roof. Partially rebolted.

Thin start and up to long moves into the first crux of 97% Fat Free, then trend up and left to jugs below roof. Follow jug rail out left, turning lip and finishing up final headwall. Has a recent addition of a redirect biner before the roof for when cleaning.

Classic endurance pumper. Thin start (like everything here) then trend up left for a couple of bolts then back right following the jugs until short flake and heartbreak exploding arms finish under rooflet. The bolts on this route are part new and old - with bolts 1, 4 and 5 still being the originals and probably also suspect.

Continuation of FF.

Start up TCP then left at big jug shared by FF.

since the crux hold further disintegrated pull on the draw......

Heinous minging start or just start up BG. Finish leftward, straight up is Beef Cake. Shares some holds with Beef Cake and is also in the firing line of falls off that route, so factor that in if someone’s already on BC.

A bit squeezed in between CC and II and shares some holds with those routes so maybe do something else if someone’s already on them. Start 2m R of CC, 2m L of II. Tricky boulder start, rooflet, then pump up and leftwards.

Shares some holds with Beef Cake so factor that in if someone’s already on BC.

Start from the ground!

Start from the ground!

Start off the pile of rocks above the ledge, 15m L of Chimp Chowder. Boulder problem start, to rightward traverse, then radical wall of exciting gymnastic moves lead to a feisty finish, classic!

The seam.

The corner on the L end of the Bum Wall slab. Trad gear. Nice move round the little roof (13), then place high gear for the crux traverse R to the DRB on Lard Arse.

The left hand route on the slab.

Far left climb.

Shares start with SS.

2-3m L of the arete.

Climbs THE arete, on the left side.

3m R of the arete.

About 6m R of the arete, up the R side of the somewhat chossy-looking patchy white rock.

The seam 3m L of HYC.

The deepest groove in this wall, about 10m R of the arete. The burly heel-hook mantle start onto the shelf might not be the best warmup. It can seep a bit, but the climbing is good and it has some of the most comfy megabuckets at Bowens.

Far right route.

Batman start!

Batman start!

Boulder problem start into excellent resistance climbing above on RRG style incut edges.

The more pleasant and sustained way to climb this route. Start as for Freak on a Leash but traverse left into Pigs in Space just above its hard, bouldery start.

Start as for Interstellar Fella but traverse left after the first bolt and go straight up the vague arete to a very hard crux on the headwall above.

Start just right of the big cutout on this side of the wall that Pigs in Space climbs. Excellent climbing but with a hard and reachy crux. Enjoy the heroic moves to the anchors.

Monique Forestier's 2003 ascent was the first Aussie female ascent of a grade 32.

Monique's ascent was the first Aussie female ascent of a grade 31.