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Castle Rock

  • Contexto da graduação: AU
  • Fotos: 7
  • Ascensões: 146

Sazonalidade

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Sumário

This is the second major area of rock you encounter of the left hand side of the trail when walking the castle rock trail. Signpost indicating "Castle Rock 50m" will let you know you arrived.

© (nmonteith)

Descrição

This is a large area with plenty of bouldering and several established trad routes. A couple of bolted sport routes here as well (take carrot bolt hangers).

© (nmonteith)

Questões de acesso herdado de Girraween

The climbing is on a coarse granite (Stanthorpe Adamalite). Most of the climbing areas are above well used bushwalking tracks. Be mindful of bushwalkers and tread lightly. This area has had access problems in the past and underlying 'ban climbing' tensions are still around. Climbing is banned altogether on the First Pyramid and Sphinx Rock. Stay off climbs here at ALL times. Ref 2010 Management Plan

Acesso

From the camping ground follow the old 'Castle Rock' track for about 100m, then follow a vague track to the left for approx 400m up the hill and under the huge boulder. Continue left to walk through a narrow causeway. The first route will be found on the right wall, and the second route on the left wall. See map.

© (nmonteith)

Onde ficar

Castle rock campground is the logical camping destination for this crag

© (nmonteith)

Ética herdado de Girraween

Note almost all the sport climbing is on Carrot Bolts. Bring bolt hangers.

DO NOT PLACE ANY NEW BOLTS anywhere in the Park Boundary. As per the 2010 Park Management Plan. Climbing is banned altogether on the First Pyramid and Sphinx Rock. Stay off climbs here at ALL times.

Etiquetas

Alguns conteúdos foram fornecidos sob licença de: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Vias

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Grade Via

From the camping area follow the old Castle Rock track for 100m then a vague track to the left for about 400m up the hill and under the main boulder. Keep going left through a narrow gap and the route is on the left wall. Sustained.

Start on the left wall. Bridge the gap up to the first bolt and pull onto the wall. Head up to a second bolt and then left and up to a third. Easier climbing leads to the top.

FA: Richard Henderson & Scott Camps, 1986

Nice.

Start: Start on the right wall.

FA: Scott Camps & Rob Whannell, 1986

Located 20m on the left side of the Castle Rock trail just after you crest a ridge approx 500m from the information centre after the first set of continuous stone steps. Establish yourself with some difficulty in the rough hand crack and up to a rest in the off-width at half height. Continue up to top out then down-climb easy short chimney at rear.

Belaying from the top of this route is not recommended unless you have several very large cams to protect the top of the crack. If seconding this ideally have belay downclimb rear chimney after their ascent and belay from the floor behind the boulder.

FA: Unknown

Located on the R side of the track on the walk up.

From where the track hits the rock, head around to the right for about 80 metres to the first orange streak.

Up into the scoop and then up the streak to the top via a bolt (bracket needed).

FA: Paul Grey & Mike Groom, 1984

At the next orange streak about six metres right of Dribbly Drop head straight up via a bolt at half height. Most of these old routes need brackets for the bolts, so always have some with you. FA Scott Camps (Solo)

FA: Scott Camps, 1984

About thirty metres right of Imagine is a third streak. Start about ten metres further right at a small, shallow corner.

  1. 15m Up the corner for five metres then left onto the slab to belay on the ledge.

  2. 23m Up to pocket (SLCD) and then up slab to the top.

FA: Jorg Wilz & Stuart Camps, 1984

Starts at the third orange streak around from Dribbly Drop. Pull onto a bolt on the block on the left. Up past this to a second bolt in a slight bulge before heading left a bit into the scoop. Step back right to a third bolt and continue to the top passing a fourth bolt along the way.

FA: Stuart Camps, Scott Camps & Jorg Wilz, 1984

Starts about ten metres around from That Gigantic Pygmy Possum Fossil at the base of a boulder. Traverse out right under the bulge and then up to a bolt. Head further rightward and up into the scoop before coming back left to jugs and a bolt. Carefully up wall to the top

FA: jorg wilz & Stuart Camp, 1984

About five metres right of German Quality is a short overhanging crack. Up the crack past a small tree to finish up a small chute at the top.

FA: Geoff Weigand, 1984

Now follow the track to the summit of Turtle Rock. When the track along the slab narrows to become a track through trees you should be able to locate a small, undercut crack on the right…

Up.

FA: Allan Hansen & Peter Collet, 1979

From Micro Epic walk straight down the slab for thirty metres to drop down onto a boulder. From this boulder climb down the tree (!) on the right to the short crack. A tad contrived…

Up the crack and then right for one metre (but don’t bridge the gully…) then up the continuation to the top. Allen Hansen and Shane Chemello Dec 1983

FA: Allan Hansen & Shane Chemello, 1983

from castle rock camping ground head to the right up hill and under huge boulder. Go right through the cave, turn right and walk 10m, the huge blank boulder in front of you, on the opposite face is a series of nasty looking crimpers. Bring spotters and crash mats, difficult highball with lots of commiting moves on tiny holds. Note LACK OF FOOTPIECES

FA: Dan Comerford, 2006

Two rusty BR's.

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Selected Guidebooks more Ocultar

Author(s): Jimmy Blackhall & David Jefferson

Data: 2021

ISBN: 9377779499658

Hidden within the ordinary people of Queensland there exists a tight-knit community of scabby knuckles, grazed knees, massive forearms and iron-clad wills. This guidebooks seeks to shed light on this community and blocks of choice with all the information, skills and knowledge to open the door for you to explore all the bouldering that Queensland has to offer.

Author(s): Simon Carter

Data: 2018

ISBN: 9780958079068

A few years ago there was basically Frog Buttress and Coolum. Since then there has been more development than Barangaroo and South East Queensland should be on any climbers radar no matter what your style. Except ice climbing, definitely no ice climbing. But over 1250 routes with hard sport, multipitches and quality trad to make a great trip.

Acomodações próximas more Ocultar

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