Pretty improbable for the grade, traversing under and out some massive roofs. Take plenty of long draws and a few slings to keep the rope-drag under control. The route starts at same belay shared with Captain Cheese and shared the first few bolts with that route. Rap down the Captain Cheese corner to the semi-hanging belay in sandy white scoop to the right of the arete. Start by traversing right along tricky wall to reach major corner with fern. Now launch up and right onto white juggy overhung face trending right to stance in corner under huge roof. Swing out right across juggy break to lip of roof, then finish up excellent thin slab and face and flake above. Double UB belay at op, but it's probably better to rig rope off rap bolts in boulder above Captain Cheese. At least 12 bolts on this route in total. It can be split into two pitches.
3 Mar 2015 | Primeira ascensão: Neil Monteith & Leith Dawes |
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20 | Grau de dificuldade |
20 | ★★★private |
The modern climbing scene and all the access issues that go with it requires modern ethic and all climbers should familiarise themselves with general good crag etiquette to ensure access is maintained into the future.
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Overall quality 71 from 12 ratings.
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