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Beta Quadrant

  • Contexto da graduação: US
8

Descrição

A set of boulders under development by Andrew Staal and Clarrie Lam

Questões de acesso herdado de Calabogie

Fires are PROHIBITED. Under NO circumstances should you start a fire at Calabogie. Respect the new parking restrictions.

HEY CLIMBERS, YES THAT MEANS YOU! THE WAY YOU ACT AT THE CRAG CAN LEAD TO THE ACCESS BEING JEOPARDIZED! CLIFFS ARE BEING CLOSED AND THIS COULD HAPPEN HERE!

Don't play music, no one wants to hear it. Pick yours and others trash up and pack it out. Dig a hole to take a #2 in and burry it! Don't pee under boulders or overhangs because the rain can't wash it away. Fires are banned on Greater Madawaska Crown Land without permit or approved fire pit, of which there are none at any of these crags. Limit the size of your group. Brush your tick marks before you move on. Keep your dog on a leash and pick up after it. Don't smoke around people who don't want to be around it and pack out your butts. Park responsibly.

Here is a good article talking about access issues recently (Read it, it only takes a minute)

https://gripped.com/news/hey-climbers-your-behaviour-can-close-our-crags/

Main Cliff, Calabogie Boulders, and approach are on crown land in a "General Use Area", in particular in the " "Madawaska Highlands General Use Area".

Most of Lake Cliff is entirely on Calabogie Peeks land. They accept no liability for any use of the area, use at your own risk.

Skywalk is entirely on crown land.

The Hydro/High Falls section was closed in 2002 due to deaths from an unexpected opening of the Barrett Chute Dam overflow gates. The land is fenced off and owned by Ontario Hydro.

There are two very real threats to access at this crag that have come up in COVID times. We were a hairs breadth away from having all parking shut down in 2021. Fires and Parking are the only two things the people who have the power to shut down access have every talked about in the last 5 years.

Acesso

Continue passed the main boulder field. Approximately 20 minutes further than Tigerlily.

Keep walking along the main path through the boulders past Tigerlily. Continue and cross a stream. Keep heading southwards, up the hill. On the other side of the hill you will see some small cliffs, some of which are climbable as boulder problems.

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Climb the obvious face, starting with left hand on a low crimp and right hand on a higher crimp. Move through nice jugs and crimps up to the crack below mini roof. Trend left along the crack and finish on adjacent boulder, or go up to the next level before doing the same

FA: Andrew Staal, 20 Sep 2014

Start on the big horizontal shelf/hold in the middle of the rock. Climb up through the vertical crack to top out.

FA: Andrew Staal, 4 Apr 2015

Find this near the downclimb of, and facing away from, To Boldly Go. Start low on an obvious good hold, move up and left on arete holds and excellent left hand sidepulls. Mantle to top out.

FA: Andrew Staal, 20 Sep 2014

Start at the far right end by stepping up on an obvious foothold, and establishing on the arete and a high left hand crimp. Traverse the thin crimp fissure all the way left and top out as for Hull Breach.

FA: Andrew Staal, 4 Apr 2015

Start at bottom right end of the huge sideways crack, and traverse leftwards to top out at the other end, awkwardly shimmying through the huge crack formed by the detached block.

FA: Andrew Staal, 4 Apr 2015

Climb the featureful arete on the boulder to the right of To Boldly Go. Start low on a shelf, climb up and left using superb crimps. Mantle on the left side of the bulge.

FA: Clarrie Lam, 20 Sep 2014

This is the left arête of the big slab visible from the approach trail. Start by stepping on a huge foot hold, with hands matched on a very low crimp rail. Climb the left arete using vertical crimps and slopers.

FA: Andrew Staal, 12 Apr 2015

On the same "Vulcan Slab" rock as Arie'mnu. Start with hands in small huecos and a good left foot. Climb the tallest part of the face on crystals and micro crimps.

FA: Andrew Staal, 16 May 2015

Olá!

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Selected Guidebooks more Ocultar

Author(s): Gus Alexandropoulos, Justin Dwyer

Data: 2016

ISBN: 9780995046610

A comprehensive guidebook to Southern Ontario’s famous climbing area, the Niagara Escarpment. This is the first complete guide to the region in almost 25 years. This volume covers the portion of the Escarpment north of Shelburne including the Beaver Valley area and the Bruce Peninsula. Includes an extensively researched history of climbing in the area, and detailed information on over 1000 rock-climbing routes.

Author(s): Gus Alexandropoulos, Justin Dwyer

Data: 2016

ISBN: 9780995046603

A comprehensive guidebook to Southern Ontario’s famous climbing area, The Niagara Escarpment. This is the first complete guide to the region in almost 25 years. This volume covers areas close to Toronto, including the popular Milton crags. Includes extensively researched history of climbing in the area, and detailed information on over 1,000 rock climbing routes.

Acomodações próximas more Ocultar

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