Grade | Via | Estilo de equipamento | Qualidade | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Sat 6th Jul 2024 - Veste Schaumburg | ||||||
7- |
★★ Route 18
![]() | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Coole Bewegungen, speziell oben raus durchaus fordernd.
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6 |
★★ Route 17
![]() | ★ Good | ||||
Henkeliger Überhang, wer's mag...
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6+ |
★★ Route 16
![]() | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sehr cool, leicht überhängender Fingerriss
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5 |
★ Route 15
![]() | ★ Good | ||||
5+ |
★★ Route 10
![]() | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Ziemlich giftiger Einstieg, dann aber Plaisir pur
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4+ |
★ Route 2
![]() | ★ Good | ||||
4 |
Route 1
![]() | Don't Bother | ||||
Sat 4th May 2024 - Oberammergau | ||||||
Kofel Kofeltürmerl | ||||||
6- |
★★ Reindlkante
![]() | 35m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Herrliche Felsnadel mit winzigem Gipfel. Die Route ist tatsächlich nicht ganz ohne, kleingriffige Crux und die dort weiten Hakenabstände sorgen für Spannung. Leider war das Gipfelbuch weg.
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Sun 7th Apr 2024 - Solothurner Jura | ||||||
Santelhöchi Paladium | ||||||
5b |
Bonsoir mes amis
![]() | 6m | Average | |||
Sat 6th Apr 2024 - Solothurner Jura | ||||||
Santelhöchi Paladium | ||||||
6a+ |
★★ Nirwana
![]() | 10m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
6b |
★★ Schlaraffenland
![]() | 10m, 4 | ||||
5c+ |
★★ Himmel auf Erden
![]() | 10m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
6a |
★★ Löchliweg
![]() | 10m, 3 | ||||
6a |
★★ Löchliweg
![]() | 10m, 3 | ||||
Plötzlich war da kein Löchli mehr ..
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6a+ |
★ Vita Parcours
![]() | 6m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
5b |
Bonjour mes amis
![]() | 6m | Average | |||
Fri 5th Apr 2024 - Gorges du Chassezac | ||||||
Les Actinidias Main Cliff | ||||||
5b |
★★ Alien vs Predator (right)
![]()
1
4b
15m
2
4b
12m
3
5b
20m
| 47m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Probably the weirdest terrain I ever climbed, so cool. Unluckily lack of equipment, so climbed it just until the last bit of rope. Have to come back to complete this journey!
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Thu 4th Apr 2024 - Gorges du Chassezac | ||||||
Mazet Petit Aiguille | ||||||
5b |
★ De bouche à oreille
![]() | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Directly after rrain shower, which made the polished crux very interesting. But even without probably not a present for the grade? Anyway, really cool tricky climbing in the first half!
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6a |
★★ Doigts de fée
![]() | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
A hard one. Unlucky slipped out of the wet & muddy key holds in the first slab
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4b |
Nez en l'air
![]() | 15m | Average | |||
One very cruxy move in the middle, found that one pretty hard for a 4.
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Wed 3rd Apr 2024 - Gorges du Chassezac | ||||||
Mazet Petit Aiguille | ||||||
4c |
★★ Dièdre à l'oeil
![]() | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
6b |
★★ Pied de nez
![]() | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fini with plaisir. Beware of the snappy slab at the end!
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4c |
★ Main chaude
![]() | 23m | ★ Good | |||
Very cruxy (reachy) move out of the slab, better be tall.
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Wed 3rd Apr 2024 - Gorges du Chassezac | ||||||
Mazet L'Amichel | ||||||
4c |
★★ T'as boulé P1
![]()
1
| 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Plaisir par excellence
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Wed 3rd Apr 2024 - Gorges du Chassezac | ||||||
Mazet Petit Aiguille | ||||||
4c |
Scarabé d'or
![]() | 10m | Average | |||
Tricky at the end
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5a |
Veuve noire
![]() | 10m | Don't Bother | |||
First super easy, the silly top boulder. Not good
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Fri 29th Mar 2024 - Chateauvert | ||||||
Tropiques et alentours Tristes Tropiques | ||||||
6c |
★ Yanomami
![]() | 12m, 5 | ||||
Not even an idea, clipstick ascent.
|
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Fri 29th Mar 2024 - Chateauvert | ||||||
Tropiques et alentours Un jour de Fievre | ||||||
4c+ |
★ Les Frontieres du Neon
![]() | 25m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Nice 3D rock structures spiced by a chimney section at the end that requires some ideas what to do. Funny & not a present for thé grade.
|
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Fri 29th Mar 2024 - Chateauvert | ||||||
Tropiques et alentours Lycopodium | ||||||
4b+ |
★ Le Singe du Blaireau
![]() | 30m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice, but significantly harder than the given grade.
|
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Thu 28th Mar 2024 - Chateauvert | ||||||
Golot Fou Golot Fou | ||||||
5a |
★★ Pipo Solo
![]() | 40m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Very cool, long and varied with an airy crux high up. Feels a bit like Elbe sandstone climbing on bolts. And now: back to camping "en canöe"
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5b+ |
★★ Haltes Passageres
![]() | 33m, 3 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Excellent long pitch, quite spaced bolting. Luckily easy enough not to get scared, but hard enough to have to leave confort mode.
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Wed 27th Mar 2024 - Chateauvert | ||||||
Tropiques et alentours Alex | ||||||
5a |
★★ Alex
![]() | 25m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
The topless season is open
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5b |
★★ Grosse et Caille
![]() | 17m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Hard start, then very enjoyable
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5c+ ~6a |
★ By Night
![]() | 19m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Hard to read, hard to climb. Very hard crimping in the middle, maybe there is an easier way? And a funny dead end a bit later...
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Mon 25th Mar 2024 - Chateau Barthelier | ||||||
5a+ |
★★ Mascarpogne
![]() | 29m | ★★ Very Good | |||
The upper half is really worthwhile and surprisingly easy.
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6b |
★★ Emasqualition
![]() | 28m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fierce slab low down, then a cool juggy upper wall. The crux for me was to move right out of the dihedral at the end of the slab.
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5b |
★ Vaccinglinglin
![]() | 25m | ★ Good | |||
One hard move in the middle slab. Feels a bit brittle in parts.
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Fri 16th Feb 2024 - Caimari | ||||||
Comuna de Caimari | ||||||
7a |
★★ Las uñas de Dori
![]() | 13m, 8 | ||||
No way. Even on top rope later one no clue how to climb this.
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6b+ |
★★★ Scoop left
![]() | 18m, 9 | ||||
Everything else around was occupied by Spaniards, so no other choice than warmup onsight
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Fri 16th Feb 2024 - Es Capdellà | ||||||
Catedral | ||||||
6a ~5a |
★★ Sapporo
![]() | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Mega super soft
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6a/a+ |
★★ Al Capone
![]() | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice & technical, not that obvious.
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6c+/7a |
★★★ La marmita
![]() | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Much better second try on top rope. 2 hangers, again in the lower crux and then just too pumped.
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6c+/7a |
★★★ La marmita
![]() | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Wow, what a great line, long, varied and a lot of air under the ass. After messing up the lower crux I was too impressed and basically clipsticked my way up...
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Thu 15th Feb 2024 - Valldemossa | ||||||
Main Crag | ||||||
7a |
★ Something
![]() | 12m | ★ Good | |||
Quick after shopping visit of the old project: A sleepy teen belayer left me no other choice than to pull through
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Tue 13th Feb 2024 - Caimari | ||||||
Comuna de Caimari | ||||||
5b - c |
★★ Via dels bombers
![]() | 25m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
6b+ |
★★ La Gaditana
![]() | 24m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Shit, should have led it. Was still too impressed from this shitty 6a slab before. This one is much better.
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6a |
★★ Pena negra
![]() | 20m, 12 | ||||
Mon 12th Feb 2024 - Puig de Garrafa | ||||||
Duck | ||||||
6b/b+ |
★★ Princesa Mara
![]() | |||||
6b |
★★ ORC
![]() | 25m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
6c |
★★ Vivan las jarras
![]() | 17m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Man, I got fat, weak, whatever
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Mon 12th Feb 2024 - Puig de Garrafa | ||||||
Radio 3 | ||||||
NN2
![]() | 15m | |||||
In sneakers
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NN1
![]() | 15m | |||||
In sneakers
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Sun 11th Feb 2024 - Es Capdellà | ||||||
Catedral | ||||||
5 |
★★ Moretti
![]() | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
6a |
★★ Ladri di Arange
![]() | 25m, 10 | ||||
Nice and juggy. Very soft, somehow missed the 6a part.
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5c |
★★ Lucas
![]() | 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Not that easy versus the end.
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6a |
★★ Tierno doy una / Sutra
![]() | 30m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice! Both pitches in one go. The second 6a pitch felt easier than the 5c before...
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Sun 1st Oct 2023 - Predigtstuhl | ||||||
3 |
★★ Soldatenweg
![]()
1
3
35
Nach 2:30 Zustieg zwar selber warm, aber eiskalter Fels. Am Stand dann gleich mal Stau.
2
3
35
3
3
32
Nett aber schattig. Stand von der 2.SL verpasst, ging aber knapp mit 60m Seil. Strafe: Saumäßig Seilzug und eine gestresste Nachsteigerin.
4
2
30
5
2
30
Endlich Sonne. Stand der 4.SL besetzt von querender Seilschaft, daher das Geröllband halt noch etwas weiter.
6
3
30
Schöne leichte Sonnenplatten. Immer noch leichte Stautendenzen am Stand
7
3
27
8
1
20
Etwas unübersichtlich wo es lang geht durch diverse kreuzende Routen. Den Stand der 7.SL nicht als solchen erkannt, dort links die leichte Rampe hoch abgebogen zum nächsten Stand.
9
2
30
10
3-
38
Durch die linke, besser gesicherte Variante. | 310m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Eine herrliche Bergfahrt ins immer wieder beeindruckend wilde Dammkar. Lange einfache und recht gut abgesicherte Tour. Durch die diversen sich kreuzenden Nachbarrouten aber teilweise etwas nervig an den Ständen, und das obwohl gar nicht so viele Seilschaften unterwegs waren. Wir kommen trotzdem wieder, da gibt's noch einiges zu tun
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Tue 19th Sep 2023 - Oberammergau | ||||||
Kofel Marxersteig | ||||||
4 |
★★ Vroniboni
![]() | 50m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | |||
4+ |
★★ Triangel
![]() | 50m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5 |
★★ Knialupfa
![]() | 18m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Geburtstagsplaisiren bei bestem Sonnenschein
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Wed 2nd Aug 2023 - Valstadsberget | ||||||
6a+ |
★★ 17 Maj
![]() | 8m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Found this one easier than the (so called) 5 to the right. But being tall might be advantageous here. And it's starting to rain again....
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4 ~5a |
★★ Klassikern
![]() | 10m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Cool laybacking plus a short slab sequence through wild rock structures. Should be possible as greenpoint, too.
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5 ~6a |
★★ Johans led
![]() | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Hard, short, but nice. Quite reachy to gain the better holds.
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4 |
★ Fyran
![]() | ★ Good | ||||
Super hard start boulder if you avoid the 2 bolts placed as footholds. Also after not easy for the grade.
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Tue 1st Aug 2023 - Dynestad | ||||||
6a+ |
Ålund två
![]() | 8m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nasty start boulder but still spicey enough after. Quite nice, but too short.
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4c |
★ Nian
![]() | 8m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Quick session in between the rain showers. Quite powerful for the grade; the wet footholds didn't make it easier
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Sat 10th Jun 2023 - Solothurner Jura | ||||||
Älpli | ||||||
6c |
Crack glove
★★ Schwanensee
![]() | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Das erste Mal mit Risshandschuhen
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6b |
★★ Höhenwanderung
![]() | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Nur den unteren Riss bis zum Zwischenstand, aber wenigstens drangeblieben.
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5c |
★ Pilgerweg
![]() | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Fri 9th Jun 2023 - Solothurner Jura | ||||||
Älpli | ||||||
5b |
★ Wellness
![]() | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Etwas komisch zu kletternder enger Kamin, die linke Seite wirkt ziemlich brüchig.
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6b |
★★ Höhenwanderung
![]() | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sehr coole Risslinie, speziell der Schulterriss in der zweiten Länge ist schon was besonderes. Leider mangelnde Fitness (von Risstechnik gar nicht zu reden
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5b+ |
★ Bärengraben
![]() | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Netter Kamin, gehört aber mal wieder gründlich ausgefegt
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5c |
★ Pilgerweg
![]() | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Direkt am Anfang kurze fiese Risspassage, danach schöne Treppe.
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Thu 8th Jun 2023 - Baume les Dames | ||||||
Sous Buen Débloc | ||||||
6b |
★★ monsieur Propre
![]() | 22m | ★★ Very Good | |||
With the correct sequence a really cool and varied route. The trick is to avoid the arete and to follow the slab to its end. But it's not yet over after...
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6b |
★★ monsieur Propre
![]() | 22m | ||||
Searching for the 5b to 6b transition of the expectation of hold quality and size. In fact, climbed it completely wrong in addition.
|
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6b |
★★ monsieur Propre
![]() | 22m | ||||
Have to improve my topo guide reading skills, thought this one is the neighboring 5b. Pretty hard climbing for 5b...
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Thu 8th Jun 2023 - Baume les Dames | ||||||
Sous Buen Les copains d'abord | ||||||
6a |
★ les copains d'abord
![]() | 17m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Ooh, endurance missing, first time on rope since months. Sustained passage on small holds in the middle.
|
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Thu 8th Jun 2023 - Baume les Dames | ||||||
Sous Buen Frottman | ||||||
5a+ |
★★ Lait souche au thym
![]() | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice, easy, crux at the end but there are hidden jugs where you need them
|
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Sun 9th Apr 2023 - Les Alpilles | ||||||
Orgon Vallée Heureuse Acteur's Studio | ||||||
5b ~5c |
★ Arete Blaise
![]() | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Sudden slab attack...
|
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5c |
★ Massage
![]() | ★ Good | ||||
5c ~5b |
★ Papillonnage
![]() | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Fri 7th Apr 2023 - Oppede-le-Vieux | ||||||
5b |
Le contrat
![]() | Average | ||||
5c+ |
★★ Golden fish
![]() | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5a |
★★ Bertholine
![]() | ★★ Very Good | ||||
wtf? Finally really easy crux, but you have to find the solution
|
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6a |
★★★ A Love Supreme
![]() | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Thu 6th Apr 2023 - Les Alpilles | ||||||
Orgon Vallée Heureuse Acteur's Studio | ||||||
4c |
★★ Nickel crome
![]() | 18m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5b ~5c |
★★ Plus ça va, moins ça va
![]() | 18m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
6b |
★★ Plaisir du soir
![]() | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Wed 5th Apr 2023 - Venasque | ||||||
Place de l'Ascle | ||||||
5c |
Unknown 7
![]() | |||||
5a |
★ Unknown 4
![]() | 10m, 5 | ||||
5c |
★★ GaMeuBuZo
![]() | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
6a+ |
★★ Unknown 2
![]() | ★★ Very Good | ||||
2 right of "Con la luz", forgot the name and 6a+ might fit. Pumpy overhanging jug fest.
|
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Fri 24th Feb 2023 - Valldemossa | ||||||
Main Crag | ||||||
7a |
★ Something
![]() | 12m | ★ Good | |||
And failing seriously. Too tired already, and too painful crimping. A reason to come back!
|
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7a |
★ Something
![]() | 12m | ||||
Short, hard & tricky. Working out a doable sequence.
|
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Wed 22nd Feb 2023 - Caimari | ||||||
Comuna de Caimari | ||||||
5c |
★★ Jarribaras P1
![]()
1
5c
| 40m | ||||
Kid-falls-into-his-own-poo-while-making-poo emergency retreat
|
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6b |
★★ Relaja la Raja P1
![]()
1
6b
| ★★★ Classic | ||||
An excellent climb! Quite scary over the bulge and then keep your shit together through the upper tufa. The clip after the first bulge is very hard to reach, a panic sling comes in handy.
|
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6c+ |
★★ Cachinochalgo
![]() | 15m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Ups, gleich im ersten ernsthaften Versuch geschafft! Knapp aber am Ende doch drangeblieben
|
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6c+ |
★★ Cachinochalgo
![]() | 15m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Altes Projekt, endlich darf ich mal
|
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Tue 21st Feb 2023 - Caimari | ||||||
Comuna de Caimari | ||||||
6b+ |
★ Las Margaritas
![]() | 66m | ||||
Die lieben Kollegen wollten mal eine "leichte" MSL machen, und wer darf dann Vorsteigen weil sich keiner traut? Zwei schwere Stellen, die am Ende ziemlich stillos mit viel Gebastel, Gelächter und dummen Sprüchen gelöst werden mussten
|
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Mon 20th Feb 2023 - Es Capdellà | ||||||
Unknown | ||||||
6c |
Unknown
![]() | |||||
Directly right of the prior route. Nice & not too hard climbing until the last bolt, then very hard to the (slightly rusty) anchor. Grade unclear.
|