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Buschholzturm

  • Contexto da graduação: SX
  • Fotos: 2
  • Ascensões: 11

Sazonalidade

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Questões de acesso herdado de Sächsische Schweiz

Das Klettern ist in der Sächsischen Schweiz nur nach den "Sächsischen Kletterregeln" gestattet.

Dementsprechend darf nur an genehmigten Felsen geklettert werden. An allen anderen Felsformationen besteht Kletterverbot.

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at DAV Sachsen or current list of climbing bans / aktuelle Sperrungsliste.

Ética herdado de Wehlen

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake. For climbability an extra model was developed.. CHECK IT at unclear conditions.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Etiquetas

Vias

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Grade Via

Aus der Scharte die Südkante, Rissspur benutzend, (R) zG.

FA: Richard Pötzsch & K. Andrich, 1910

Rechts in der Talseite teils überhängenden Kamin zwischen Turm und Massiv zur Scharte.

FA: Sven Neumann, 2003

In der TaƖseite (SW) Wand zu R u. űber Üh rechtsh. zu 2. R. Leicht rechtsh. an gr. Loch (SchƖ), 3. R u. fƖacher SU vorbei zG.

FA: Johannes Müller, 1992

Wie "Weg der Bilche" zum 1.R. Links über Überhang und Wand (2R) zum 3.R "Asyl im Paradies". Dieses zG.

FA: Sven Neumann, 2003

Wie „HeimatbƖick“ zum R. Re. um die Kante queren zu 2. R. Stumpfe Kante (3. R) zG.

FA: Sven Neumann, 2001

Ganz Ɩi. in der TaƖseite Kamin u. re. zu R. Kante, oben wie „ΝW-Kante“ zG.

A.F.: VI

FA: Sven Neumann, 2001

Aus der Scharte, anfangs zw. T u. VB spreizend, u. re. queren zur ΝW-Kante (R). Diese zG.

FA: Hans Heilmaier, 1922

Zw. T u. VB hochspr. u. Wand (R), oben Ɩinksh. zG.

A.F.: VIIa

FA: Heinz Fischer, 1960

1,5m rechts vom "Südostriss" Wand (R) zG.

FA: Sven Neumann, 2003

1 m re. vom AW Rsp hinter Rippe zG.

FA: Hermann Herklotz, 1918

Den oberen Teil durch Abstieg und Überfall vom Massiv südöstlich des Turmes erreichen.

Vom Massiv südöstlich des Turmes Sprung zu kleinem Absatz von "Alter Weg" und zG.

FA: Bernd Zimmermann, 1974

Você sabia?

Você sabia que pode criar uma conta para registrar, rastrear e compartilhar suas escaladas? Milhares de escaladores já estão fazendo isso.

Selected Guidebooks more Ocultar

Author(s): H. Schulze & V. Hölker

Data: 2022

Author(s): B. Arnold

Data: 2017

Der Kletterführer bietet den ultimativen Überblick über die großen klassischen Kletterwege an den bis zu 100 Meter hohen Felsen des Elbsandsteingebirges.

Acomodações próximas more Ocultar

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