Ajuda

Grail

  • Contexto da graduação: FR
  • Fotos: 3
  • Ascensões: 26
  • Aka: Kelch
2
FR

Sazonalidade

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Questões de acesso herdado de Meteora

Generally, rock formations with inhabited monasteries should not be climbed. Preserve all other historical remains.

Ética herdado de Meteora

Traditionally, Meteora was in great parts explored by climbers with background from Saxon Switzerland (East Germany), translating to ringbolts, leadbolting and runouts. However, there is also some mainstream sport climbing to be found.

Vias

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Grade Via
1 5 25m
2 6- 25m
3 5 40m
4 3 20m
5 6 A1 20m

Easily the most photogenic route in Meteora, due to the step-across move.

P1, P2: 3/7 bolts. Can be linked together with 60m ropes. Slab climbing with a few steep sections.

P3: Thin slab climbing then a chimney and a water groove, belay on a ledge to the right. 1 bolt, good cam placements.

P4: Walk up to the first summit, beware of loose rock. Belay on top on the summit, not the rappel anchor on the wall. No bolts.

P5: The icing of the cake. Down-climb to the fixed rope, use it to lean across and clip the bolt, than do the step-across. Traverse left then follow the crack and face to the top. 7 bolts, takes small cams.

There's a rappel anchor across the summit plateau and a bit to the left. Two overhanging 45m rappels to the ground. Alternatively there's another to the right from which you can descent through "Spiralweg".

1 5c+
2 6a
3 6a+
4 6a+

You need double ropes

A couple of medium sized cams could come in handy for the final pitch that might feel a bit run out.

The crack is easier than it looks.

Exposed

Take care for the descent

The rap station is the left hand one, climbers left, as you top out, So you end up closer to the start of the route.

And you need 2 ropes, the second rap is 45m+ And people have gotten stack with an 80m rope.

There I a typographic mistake in the newest guidebook about the length of the rappel.

Olá!

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Selected Guidebooks more Ocultar

Author(s): Vangelis Batsios

Data: 2023

ISBN: 9786180046649

A selective guidebook describing 206 of the best classic multi-pitch routes at Meteora, covering both traditional and modern routes.

Author(s): Vangelis Batsios

Data: 2022

ISBN: 9786180037999

A comprehensive guidebook describing the sport climbing found at Meteora, Theopetra, Sarakina, and Agia Paraskev, covering 319 routes.

Author(s): Thierry Souchard

Data: 2017

ISBN: 9782952638876

A selective guidebook describing 180 multi-pitch routes from 7 areas around the world, covering Calanques, Verdon, Sardinia, Meteora, Wadi Rum, Tsaranoro, Red Rocks, and Zion.

Acomodações próximas more Ocultar

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