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Ngumo

  • Contexto da graduação: UK

Questões de acesso herdado de Kenya

Access in Kenya ranges from very simple (especially in National Parks and Lukenya) to totally impossible.

Please do not pay to climb (outside of National Parks and Lukenya) as you'll ruin access for everyone else.

If you encounter any access issues, please notify the Mountain Club of Kenya so we can monitor and deal with it: https://www.mck.or.ke/contact

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Ética herdado de Kenya

If you want to open new climbs in Kenya, kindly contact the Mountain Club of Kenya (www.mck.or.ke). We'll be happy to help!

Here is our bolting policy, please abide by it: http://mountainclubkenya.org/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/Bolting-Policy.pdf

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Alguns conteúdos foram fornecidos sob licença de: © Mountain Club of Kenya (Copyright Mountain Club of Kenya)

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A low quality warmup when it's raining and you want to scramble rather than hike Satima.

Go 7ish meters up thin projecting bit of red rock slinging horns to grassy area. Continue up grassy area, then get back on rock a little to the left and continue up to base of pinnacle. Belay here.

FA: Max Weiner & Mikael Roland

Short with a couple fun moves.

Start at bottom of South side of reddish rock at base of small grassy slope. Traverse up and left towards good holds on steepest part of face. Get a marginal cam in and sling a few horns, then straight up steepest jugs onto slabby finish to pinnacle of rock. Sling but no rap ring in place on pinnacle.

A much bolder second pitch up larger rock across gap looks possible, although gear and rock quality potentially marginal.

FA: Max Weiner & Mikael Roland

A great route with 20 meters of steep juggy climbing, and a 10+ meter runout on slab to finish.

Start to right of black water streak on good holds. Make a few moves up to sling horns, then traverse left over water streak where possible. Straight up face until rock gets too mossy, then traverse left around arete. Make sure your last piece is bomber and your belay is tight, because there's no pro until the top, then pull up onto slab. Continue up on slabby face to the right of grassy gully as you run it out to the top. Anchor can be built on a large shallow horn and a mossy crack.

Steep scramble off to the right to descend.

FA: Max Weiner & Mikael Roland

Approach: From Amphitheatre Camp Site in front of the East face of Ngumu Rock, walk uphill toward the base of Ngumu Rock, then walk right up a steep hill, behind a large boulder scrambling around some small boulders at the top of the slope. Bear left heading into Ngumu Rock as though entering the large cleft filled by a huge chock stone boulder at the summit. You should see a large pedestal block on the right. There is a small grassy ledge at the base of Ngumu near two trees, just to the right of the block pedestal. Begin P1 here.

  1. (poor pro). Easy start at grassy ledge. Head up a slick rock corner to a good ledge for hands. Traverse ledge to the right about 5 feet until you reach another small sloping ledge just past a bush. head up toward the right after the bush and place anchor on knobby wall.

  2. (good pro). Start up knobby wall. About 10 feet up, knobby wall ends at a small rounded pocket/pod. Step into pocket (crux). Above the pod, there is an obvious vertical book with many knobs. Climb the book. Some stemming required; avoid pulling directly on knobs.

Descent: Rappel from large block at summit 50m (double rope required) direct to base. Beware of knobs and branches when pulling rope. Walk down to the North

FA: Amy Wong & Jeff Mariner, 2012

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