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Plaisir route Ascent to the routes

The obvious huge corner system is trad.

Nice introduction to the crag. Originally short (thus the name) but now much longer.

Trad line unsure of where it is.

Missing anchor

Slab. There are two routes to the same anchor.

1st pitch 30m 3c

10 bolts (plus belay stations with 2 bolts each) 40m Walking.

2nd pitch 15m 4b

3 bolts (plus belay stations with 2 bolts each)

solo downclimb

solo downclimb

A big jaggedy crack of variable width and creative protection. Guide book says it's a f4 but it could feel harder if your not used to the awkward style.

Time: 4 hours up and down, if you know where you're going 2 hours. Approach 30 mins to 1 hour from rakabat east entrance.

Gear: Full rack.

• P1 f-5: Straight up the crack, Reaching a small ledge/cave on the right with a big thread (40m).
• P2 f4: Exit the cave back into the crack where it opens up more, with bridging and standing on what could be brittle spikes and flakes. Belay from a big flat ledge with a roof on the right just before the crack opens and flattens out
• P3 f3: Climb / traverse right to reach a bigger plateau (limited useful protection).
• P4 f3: Optional, scramble to the summit. If not head up right to the ridge line.

Descent.

Follow the ridge line steeply down generally staying on the right side snaking back and forth. There will be some down climbing and maybe some cairns. Eventually trending more to the right, heading for the canyon crossroad. It is possible to get down without abseiling.

Very easy trad intro in Rum with comfortable places to build stations. Hard to protect 3rd pitch leads to nice 4th pitch crack.

More of a scramble than a climb. A gentle morning out. Situated on the west face. Looks like it has not been climbed all that much so there is brittle rock all over. The guide book gives this route a grade f5 however it didn't seem like that, so we might have been off route.

Gear: Hardly any as there is either no point placing anything or you can't. A hand full of mid sized cams. Slings useful. Final abseil is about 60m.

Time: 4 hours up and down taking it very easy.

• Pitch 1 f4: The climb starts to the left of all the vertical cracks which lead to the mushroom overhang. There is a less than vertical gully. Climb this, unprotectable (or pointless to protect) for about 50m till you reach a short 2m face. Belay from above the face.
• Pitch 2 to summit, f3: Heading practically straight up the ramps. There is no massive need to do any pitched climbing if you don't want to as you can walk around any problems, but if you enjoy building anchors you can.

Descent.

Walk back down keeping a little bit to left of the route as it's less steep. 20 meters of so before the first belay head right and into the next big gully. The guide book mentions a hidden abseil. We didn't see any evidence, but set up an abseil on a big thread and went down the face, to the floor (approx 60m).

A pleasant scramble to the summit, with optional climbing.

On the west face, the route is easily spotted by the giant ramp. The TH guidebook topo seems a touch off on the location of some of the features.

Weave your way up the easiest path of the lower formation to reach a short problem of f4 just below the main ramp, (a bit reachy). After the ramp, head in the same direction into the bushy gully and find your way up the easiest part of the left wall to gain the domes to the summit. There is also a hidden rock bridge on the right.

Alternatively after the ramp, cross the plateau and head left along the wall to find 2 pitches of 5- and 4+ (possibly the big black corner, unchecked).

Descent: from the summit find the abseil back down to the plateau / ramp top, from there reverse route either abseil or scramble. Alternatively descend via Bedouin routes north or south unchecked.

7 slings

4 slings

Not in the guide book. Round the corner from barefoot groove. About UK grade severe.

share anchor with previous and next climb

İlk Aşk is a wonderful moderate traditional route that follows an indiscriminate left trending crack an anchor shared with Kuymak.

Location İlk Aşk is located 14 meters right of a large pine tree at the base of the cliff, above the gazebos. Follow a left trending camouflage crack.

Protection Trad to 2", 2 bolt anchor

İlk Aşk is a wonderful moderate traditional route that follows an indiscriminate left trending crack an anchor shared with Kuymak.

Location İlk Aşk is located 14 meters right of a large pine tree at the base of the cliff, above the gazebos. Follow a left trending camouflage crack.

Protection Trad to 2", 2 bolt anchor

İlk Adım is a 40 meters long traditional enjoyable route.

Büdü is a short yet enjoyable route that starts up a moderate and less than vertical face. Stay left of a small tree growing underneath a roof 5 meters off the ground. Follow the bolts up a very featured face and enjoy bigger holds as the wall kicks back to a slight overhang at the anchor.

Büdü is a short yet enjoyable route that starts up a moderate and less than vertical face. Stay left of a small tree growing underneath a roof 5 meters off the ground. Follow the bolts up a very featured face and enjoy bigger holds as the wall kicks back to a slight overhang at the anchor.

İlk Aşk is a wonderful moderate traditional route that follows an indiscriminate left trending crack an anchor shared with Kuymak.

Location İlk Aşk is located 14 meters right of a large pine tree at the base of the cliff, above the gazebos. Follow a left-trending camouflage crack.

Protection Trad to 2", 2 bolt anchor

İlk Adım is a 40 meters long traditional enjoyable route

Right finish

#1, 14, 20m. Up the steep gully, bridging amongst tree-choked ledges to a jetroufah tree belay on the left. #2, 9. 10m. The Barefoot traverse. Traverse right on good feet and jugs. A good barefoot problem with a homemade harness fashioned from 2 inch webbing as on the first ascent, #3. 15. 30m. A tad run-out. Up fused corner and over the bulge. BD #3 here. Follow the crack R of the roof. Mantle cloven flakes onto Scimitar ledge. #4. 30m. Up easily to the top.