Vias em Taranaki

The poled route to the summit.

Typically starts at North Egmont Visitor Centre. Follow the signposted summit route from the upper carpark, being careful to take the left hand route (through the gate) when you head off. Follow the 4WD track as it zigzags across a couple of major valley systems, eventually reaching a public toilet and then Tahurangi Lodge at 1520m. This is a good decision point, as the route is well-formed and reasonably sheltered until here.

Above the lodge, the track follows the true right of the upper Maketawa Valley ('Hongis Gully') for a bit before cutting through the base of the gully and onto a set of wooden stairs to pass through the cliffline on the climber's right. Above this, the route transitions to easy scree and passes through a rock / scree outcrop before hitting a sizeable boulder ('Drinking Rock') with a small depression to its right.

Above here, it's a journey through scree following well worn trails. Gain the obvious lava flow ('The Lizard') at the poled location, and scramble that up until the crater entrance is encountered at around 2400m. Take a right and scramble the summit dome, be courteous and yell out if you dislodge any big rocks with people beneath you. Pop out onto the flat summit region, the true summit is directly behind the obvious plaque.

Route is a bit different in winter. Expect snow from around Tahurangi Lodge, the gully above tends to be hard and icy. It's generally easier to either skirt the upper gully cliffs on the climber's left, or else follow the Around the Mountain track briefly and climb directly to the top of the staircase from there. Instead of taking the Lizard lava flow up, cross into Crater Valley (climber's right of the Lizard) and enter the crater through that.

Easiest route in summer. Often used for novices in winter, but be very careful - the fall line from Crater Valley and upper North Ridge goes through the upper Waiwhakaiho Valley which has killed a good number of climbers over the years.

Much less popular than its North Ridge cousin, but only slightly harder and more interesting.

Start at Dawson Falls Visitor Centre. Follow the route to Syme Hut, which is signposted and commences on your left about 20m behind the visitor centre. Head through easy terrain for 5 minutes, then take a right at the junction (signposted) and start to climb. Lots of steps will eventually take you to wooden stairs at around 1300m, climb through these (ignoring the turnoff to Lake Dive Hut) and come out into a short spot of flat scree. Get everything sorted here (warm clothes, ice axe and crampons out in winter, food and drink) as it's another 400m of climbing before any respite in gradient.

Follow the poled route up through scree.In summer, pass directly through the obvious rock outcrop ('The Knoll') - in winter, it's easier to bypass on to the climber's left. Continue on through until around 1900m where you go over a lip and encounter the false flat. You can follow poles which swing right above the Kapuni Gorge if heading straight to the summit, but the fall line is poor and there can be deep crevasses in early summer slightly lower down. Alternatively, head through the next 50m aiming to the right of Copestone (major rock outcrop) and enter the main plateau. Head to Syme Hut from here, without a doubt one of NZ's finest backcountry huts.

If going to Syme Hut, there is a poled route down into the adjacent Rangitoto Flat (the poled route from the false flat goes directly here). Pick your way up the reasonably featureless southern face, with gradients varying between roughly 30 and 45 degrees. Reach the crater rim at a steel waratah directly west of the Mackay Rocks. Descend into the crater rim and climb the summit dome directly.

Arguably Mt Taranaki's finest summit route, a joy in either summer or winter conditions.

This guide is written from the Stratford Plateau, though the route is also accessed from Tahurangi Lodge with a rising traverse from near Organ Pipes (Mangamawhete) Valley

Start at the Stratford Plateau, and follow the signposted route through to the Manganui Ski Area. Expect this to be super busy during winter if the ski area is open.

From the ski area, head directly up following the various tows. It starts off with easy tussock or snow, transitioning into scree (in summer). From the building at the top of the Top Tow, pick a route onto East Ridge depending on season. In summer, it's typical to cut under the Policeman (dominant rock outcrop above a narrow rock spine) and scramble up to the base of the lava flow. In winter, head above the Policeman instead and cut through a short but potentially troublesome spur. Be careful with the latter, as there's a risk of having to get through off-camber ice slopes with increasing exposure to the cliffs that separate the ridge from Teds Alley.

Either way, climb East Ridge up increasingly steep slopes. In summer, the lower section is a mixture of scree and rock, transitioning to excellent rock (with one awkward scree bed around 2200m which can be avoided), followed by a summit pyramid of decent rock. In winter, expect mostly ice with sometimes awkward rime on the summit pyramid. The ridge is mostly around 45 degrees, with a short step around 2200m and increasing to around 60 degrees by the summit.

Descent from the tooth is via various means. Some parties abseil into the crater, which should be achievable on a single rope (if you can find a decent anchor). However, most parties scramble the crater rim eastward, easy (if a bit exposed) in summer and generally ok in winter depending on snow levels. In summer, grab the cables at the top of Pleasant Valley ('The Chimney') and follow them down. In winter, you might have to go further along to the col in the crater rim ('Surrey Road Entrance') and enter from there. It's possible to downclimb East Ridge, but probably not worth the time - expect to frontpoint on ice back down below 2200m at which point you can walk off.

A classic Taranaki climb, though not particularly popular.

Start from the Stratford Plateau carpark at the end of Pembroke Road. Walk towards Manganui Ski Area for about five minutes before locating an overgrown track entrance on your left. Bash through the first few metres of this after which it improves slightly, but expect scratches.

Follow bush and scrub on the obvious track. It eventually fades out and into nice broad tussock, before the ridge narrows. Sharp pinnacles are soon hit, which are normally scrambled initially before a quick hop to the climber's left will let you sidle the remainder. Be careful not to fall to the right off the pinnacles, it's a long and sheer drop.

Above the pinnacles, follow the ridge up through various outcrops. Some would be slightly dangerous in the wet, there is some scrambling on moss with cliffs only a few metres below. Clear the last of the major ridge difficulties and come out into loose but tolerable rock.

Depending on snow levels (or lack thereof), err on the side of caution when putting on crampons. The ridge eventually fades out into broad face slopes, and those slopes are not pleasant. The matrix isn't coherent, and its littered with rocks that won't tolerate even partial weighting. Expect to send hundreds of rocks into the Manganui Gorge, with a reasonable chance of eventually bailing. Further up, there is a fine layer of shingle on a hard clayish bedrock which is difficult to traverse. To make matters worse, a good portion of the runout heads over cliffs into the Kapuni Gorge.

With that said, when the upper section is snow covered it presents no major difficulties (and even offers pleasant climbing!). Follow it up until you cross over the obvious lip onto the southern face and climb as per the South Face route.

A long outing by Taranaki standards, but a nice variety of terrain with easy climbing in the right season. Despite the low technical grade, it's noteworthy more for its length and height gain - about 12km of continuous climbing and 2100m of gain, one way. The lack of summit routes from the west also means getting back to your car means retracing your steps, or heading back down to the Around the Mountain Track and circling back.

Start off at the end of Kahui Road, on the western side of the mountain. There is no carpark, but plenty of room to park at the turning bay. Follow the signposted route up to Kahui Hut, on well cut (but often boggy) tracks.

Kahui Hut is a nice play to stay for the night, quiet with a bit of history. No fireplace, so bring a nice sleeping bag in winter. You can see the gorge condition from the hut (in good weather), though most of the mountain is obscured by the forest surrounding the hut.

From the hut, you have two choices. The 'correct' route is to make your way down into the adjacent Okahu Gorge, typically via a lightly taped pest control track which comes off the main track slightly below the main hut. Follow this (careful to avoid to drops below) until it hits a slip, scrambling this into the gorge and follow the river up. The gorge is traversable right through, though it takes a few hours on an already long route. There is a decent cliff mid-way up which is scrambled through occasionally prickly terrain to the climber's left. Once you're in the tussock, keep a look to your left for a gentle slope that breaks the mostly cliffed gorge edges to enter the tussock fields above. It is certainly possible to just follow the gorge all the way up which gives a nicer view of Hughsons Ledge, so it's a call between tussock and dry streambed.

The other option is to head up about 50m past Kahui Hut and there's a closed pest control track to your right. DOC was kind enough to put up a No Entry sign (making it easier to find) - I don't have knowledge of whether that's a legal prohibition / call for courtesy etc., but in the interests of liability I would suggest confirming the specifics of access (or lack thereof) with DOC first. I would guess use of the track is discouraged as it enters a short patch of narrow and exposed terrain further up, or potentially to discourage people from walking through the fragile mossfields that litter the western face. Either way, the beautifully cut track heads straight up before traversing a narrow ridge, coming out into scrub and ultimately tussock.

From the tussock fields, continue ascending pat Turehu Hill (tall rock spine to your left). The broad tussock fields narrow and lead to a large mossy outcrop - either climb this directly which is quite steep with mostly friction holds, or head south and follow the obvious ridge which takes longer but is easier. Continue over the outcrop into the gorge proper, and follow that up.

The gorge itself is unpleasant in summer, seemingly oversteepened volcanic debris just waiting to tumble down. Even football sized rocks show little tenacity, kind of like the scree on North Ridge but on a much larger scale. The guidebook recommendation is to take the scree slopes north of the gorge (i.e. the west face) instead, but I have not personally tried this.

In winter / spring / early summer, snow coverage in the gorge makes for a lovely outing. Enjoy the reasonably shallow slopes (perhaps 45 degrees maximum) as you cut under the 150m high cliffs of West Ridge, snaking up until you reach the entrance of the crater when a quick scramble up the summit dome will bring you magnificent views in all directions.

One of the more popular alternatives to the crowded North Ridge route, though possibly because it diverges from that route at Tahurangi Lodge.

Access Tahurangi Lodge however you wish - most come in from North Egmont Visitor Centre as per the North Ridge route, but for those coming from the south it's just as quick to park at the Stratford Plateau and follow the Around the Mountain Track.

From Tahurangi Lodge, ascend the obvious tussock bulge to the climber's left of the marked route up Hongi's Gully. There is a snow pole at the top of this hump which suggests a direct route up is achievable (though steep), but it's easier to follow the Organ Pipes Valley access track (not marked on topo maps) for a short period and ascend onto the ridge proper using either the obvious tussock gully or adjacent ridge crest. The upper section of this ices over quite early in the season and may require a short section in crampons.

Above the bulge, the route flattens off slightly and transitions to broad moss slopes and ultimately scree. Follow the ridge as it gradually steepens, hitting perhaps 50 degrees on the final approach to the crater rim. The upper section is reasonable rock in summer, or snow / ice in winter.

Gain the crater rim slightly right of where the eastern edge of Sharks Tooth drops away, finding a short gully amongst the cliff faces to descend into the crater. Ascend easy slopes to the true summit.

Can be done year round, but in winter watch for rime falling off the bluffs to the south (climber's left) of the route. Also be aware that the upper sections of the route run out over cliffs.

A nice gully route with an ice step for those who choose to take it.

The route is typically accessed from the Stratford Plateau. Follow the signposted route to Manganui Ski Area, then follow the various tows until they terminate. From there, you can see a long line of cliffs above which radiate off the edge of Sharks Tooth - these cliffs separate Teds Alley from East Ridge.

Continue climbing directly up, staying left of the cliff line. The route steepens to around 45 - 50 degrees, eventually becoming hemmed in as you approach the major step at around 2200m.

The guidebook route here goes right, hitting a pitch of ice / steep snow to clear a step. It is possible to avoid the pitch and instead climb over a steep knob of snow / ice to the left of the step. This is useful for solo climbers and those without pitching skills or gear, but also avoids the issue of getting smoked by the rime that tends to fall off the adjacent cliffs and pour down the gully after a good snowstorm. By spring, the step has filled in quite a bit and might not need a rope.

Either way, above the step (or outcrop) it's a laborious few hundred metres of frontpointing to access the crater rim. The route comes out immediately west of Sharks Tooth at a flat spot, mercifully avoiding the difficulties of getting off the tooth in winter. From here, you can drop directly into the crater and ascend the summit dome.

An uncommon and potentially seasonal route, but enjoyable nonetheless. It climbs part of the west ridge of Mt Taranaki, overlapping with Okahu Gorge route.

Access Kahui Hut via the Kahui or Puniho Tracks. From there, access further up is either via a cruise taped pest control track into the lower Okahu Gorge or more directly, the 'closed' pest control track that runs off about 50m past Kahui Hut. Access to the latter is contentious, with an overt prohibition sign in the field and poster in the hut.

If coming up via the lower gorge, travel is ok as per the Okahu Gorge route description. If coming in via the mossfields, you will want to trend south and find the path of least resistance to around 1400m. There's a sloping tussock face around 1400m which gives access and a straightforward descent into the gorge around 1600m, but between the two is a hanging moss slope with a hidden cliff face below - be careful not to drop over this.

From the gorge, access West Ridge. This isn't trivial and generally the crux of the route. Historically it was done via Hughsons Ledge, a tussock / moss ledge that breaks the main cliffs. Access is via a tussock scramble from the gorge floor and then a long trend upwards. I haven't done the route, but there are two visible slips from the gorge that cut the ledge and 70m high cliffs below. The ledge narrows near the top to under 10m wide, before breaking out into a moss basin and providing access to one of the gullies on the West Ridge.

The other option is to climb onto the ridge directly via one of two gullies that cut the ridge just above 1700mm, with a distinctive and blocky lava toe splitting them. The upper one offers good travel, but it's probably above the 1+ grading given to the Hughsons Ledge route. When infilled with avalanche degree and snowfall, it can offer a consistent snow lead from the gorge right up onto the ridge.

Climb the moderate lower slopes at perhaps 40 degrees - on snow this is fine, in summer conditions it can be loose rubble. There's a short rock step about halfway up, though in good snow conditions this reduces to a short 3-5m section of 60 degree snow / rock. Beyond the step, it's largely 40 - 55 degree climbing as the gully opens out from a few metres wide to more of a face. This is a beautiful section, you can look down and see the broad face converging beneath you. The runout is still pretty good at this point, with just that small rock step breaking up the smooth snow slope back to the valley floor.

From the upper gully, there are various options. You can tend left, sneaking around the small but sheer face of a cleaved lava flow. This doesn't look to offer any technical difficulties, but the traverse across runs out over large cliffs.

The gully has a headwall, and in winter this seems to involve ugly chandeliered ice with little substance. Far from offering good pick placements, it seems to accumulate slushy snow around the weakness on its left-hand side making it an unpleasant option. With enough snow coverage, the cliffed right hand side of the gully is broken by a useful snow lead near the top. This leads to a short and icy ridge climb onto a knob, which finally leads to the open expanses of West Ridge.

From here, the route is more trivial. Follow the sweeping ridge until it merges with Bobs Ridge, then ascend to near the shallow saddle and find a route down into the Okahu Gorge. Ascend from here into the crater as per the Okahu Gorge route, being mindful that you can expect heavy rime shelling on the approach.

Not sure how much fun this route would be in summer. The upper gully looks horrendously shingly in summer conditions, and while West Ridge has one dominant lava flow which looks coherent, at least some of the route will be on shallow shingle and exposed. The descent into the gorge could be problematic, and the upper Okahu Gorge tends to be on loose blocks without snow cover.

First crack right of The Arête, well protected. Crack at 3/4 height. ‘A good first lead’ said the original notes.

Crack left of The Arête.

SS holding both aretes shuffle your way up to the massive jug then mantel.

Traverse along the top on slopers and crimps then mantel.

SS on crimps and slopers then mantel direct.

Start matched on a good crimp with high and low feet then jump or swing to a jug then mantel .

A few meters to the right of Point 5 Slab. Move up towards the overhang then tend left towards two loose-looking boulders, finding satisfying edges to hold onto. A triangular pocket below the two boulders proves useful. A good rock to belay from the top. Good protection, navigating loose rock.

Left most line up the obvious corner of the slab.

Crack that trends left into Centrefold.

A striking line, hands and finger crack that weaves it's way to the top.

The very nice parallel hand crack right of Stargate that leads up a chimney to finish.

Starts right of Suffrage and Emancipation climbing on the edge/in a chimney up a crack to belay ledge.

Start by moving out right from under roof on the eastern side of a pillar, follow rib to top of southern pillar.