Grade | Via | Estilo de equipamento | Qualidade | |||
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Sun 2nd Jul 2023 - Jura | ||||||
Jura Południowa Dolina Będkowska Grupa Gęsiarni Gęsiarnia | ||||||
VI.1 | ★★ Zdążyć przed bluszczem z kantem - with manh | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice moves on the headwall, without using the holds on the right it would feel much harder
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V+ | ★ Gruda - with manh | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Broke off a hold after start, the second part in the chimney was nice. You clip the bolts of the route on the right
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VI.1+ Hard | ★★★ Ego tyka - with manh | 17m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Really nice climbing and then the crux hit me, couldn't figure out a good foot position
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Sun 28th May 2023 - Jura | ||||||
Jura Południowa Dolina Kobylańska Kula | ||||||
VI | ★★ Prawa duma Kobylan | 18m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Pleasant technical climbing, towards the end the intention seems to go right around the overhang, but in my opinion it makes more sense to go straight through it using the bolt of Lewa duma kobylan
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V+ | ★★ Moja kokaina | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice climbing partially through a chimney, might be scary for some people
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V+ Hard | ★★★ Kulawe dziurki | 30m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
It's a pity this route isn't climbed more and therefore is a bit overgrown. Probably because bolting is runout. The climbing itself is very nice, delicate, with a powerful ending to top it off.
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V | ★★★ Przez kulę | 20m, 7 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Totally awesome adventure route! This one is for chimney enthusiasts like me. If you take the leap of faith, you will be rewarded with a view of an ancient bullet embedded in the rock. This is where the name of this sector - Kula - came from
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V ~V+ | ★★ Zacięcie pod Ameryką | 14m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Really nice delicate climbing, enjoyed this a lot
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V+ Hard | ★★ Środkowa rysa | 14m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Very polished in the middle, tall people like me have an advantage of reaching a good hold and don't have to worry about slippery feet. First bolt is unreasonably high
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VI Hard | ★★ Hokejka | 14m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Very fitting route name, which you realize when your feet are hopelessly sliding on the rock at the second bolt. I had fun though and I'm proud of this onsight
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Sun 16th Apr 2023 - Jura | ||||||
Jura Południowa Dolina Raclawki Powroźnikowa | ||||||
VI.1 | ★★★ Zmierzch pary — 2 attempts - with Manh | 12m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Hard start, first go i chickened out and went around, second I figured out the key move and then the route was done
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V | ★★★ Pociągi pod specjalnym nadzorem - with Manh | 12m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Super nice route, holds on this one are simply perfect
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VI | ★★★ Niecne igraszki - with Manh | 12m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Always a pleasure to climb this route, the holds are amazing
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IV+ ~V- | ★★ Szramówka - with Manh | 16m | ★ Good | |||
Nice route with one hard move
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III | Jak nauka wyszła z lasu - with Manh | 16m | ||||
Great warm-up
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V+ | ★★ Prawa Ręka Nie Klaszcze - with Manh | 12m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice route using the right edge of the rock
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VI | Kruszonka z Posypką - with Manh | 12m | ★ Good | |||
Some moves are hard to read, take your time
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V- | ★ Życie Carlita - with Manh | 12m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Nice chimney
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IV | Felicia - with Manh | 12m, 4 | Don't Bother | |||
Not a nice route for beginners, especially kids won't have a chance reaching the anchor. Below that the climbing is easy but not too interesting
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VI ~VI+ | ★★★ Cosaznosa - with Manh | 15m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Epic moves next to the third bolt, amazing route
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VI | ★★ Kamforra - with Manh | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice route, the bolting was a bit confusing but the moves itself good
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Sun 20th Mar 2022 - Jura | ||||||
Jura Południowa Dolina Prądnika Skała Zachwytu | ||||||
VI.1 | ★★★ Dziubas | 15m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
The beginning is hard and super uncomfortable - could have been bolted better, but the author Rostek is well known for unsafe bolting. On top rope it was fine, and I quickly figured out the right beta. Personally would grade it at least 6.1
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VI+ | ★★★ Dziubas | 15m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
VI+ | ★★★ Dziubas | 15m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
VI+ | ★★★ Dziubas | 15m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
IV | ★★ Światełko w tunelu | 15m, 5 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
This is a mega classic under the condition you go through the tunnel in the middle of the route - you can even get to the other side of the rock! Super fun
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IV- | ★ Kamieniowanie | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
V- | ★★ Pejzaż horyzontalny | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice route, easy but pleasant
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V | ★★ Dziubasek | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice and long route
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V | ★★ U wrót zachwytu | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
IV- | ★★ Domino w depresji | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
great for warmup
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IV+ | ★ Filar domina | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
interesting variant
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Sun 10th Oct 2021 - Jura | ||||||
Jura Południowa Dolina Będkowska Psiklatka Psi Płot | ||||||
IV+ | ★★★ Szczeniak | 16m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Nice one and quite well protected
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VI.1+ | ★★★ Głupek wraca do domu | 20m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Couldn't figure out the crux at the 6th bolt, felt super hard. Overall the route is really nice and has great moves including a demanding traverse
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VI | ★★ Pies pogrzebany | 16m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
My mistake for not preparing my foot placement in advance. On second try it was easy. Cool sequence in the middle part
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V | Psubrat | 16m, 6 | ||||
V | ★★★ Superburek | 16m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Nice warmup, hardest at the start
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V+ | ★★★ Psi instynkt | 16m, 7 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
This route is simply amazing, most do. Easy but not trivial
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V | ★★ Wariant szczeniaka | 16m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Nice route all the way, but especially up at the top
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III | Psia trawka | 16m, 4 | Don't Bother | |||
I was hoping for some alpine experience which is rare in Jura - but this was too much as bushes replaced the bolts in the upper part
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Sun 3rd Oct 2021 - Jura | ||||||
Jura Południowa Dolina Szklarki Słoneczne Skały Ostatnia | ||||||
IV+ | ★ Myrzębiaki | 14m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
V | ★★★ Żony i kochanki | 14m, 5 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
This route never disappoints
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Sun 3rd Oct 2021 - Jura | ||||||
Jura Południowa Dolina Szklarki Słoneczne Skały Filarek Bularza i Płyta Benduskiego | ||||||
VI.1+ | ★★★ Kaligóra | 20m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Was hard to read, and couldn't commit under the anchor - feels like you could hit the ledge under you.
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Sun 3rd Oct 2021 - Jura | ||||||
Jura Południowa Dolina Szklarki Słoneczne Skały Ogrodzieniec | ||||||
IV+ | ★★ Placebo | 15m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Actually a very nice warmup IV+, I liked the final part a lot
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V+ | ★★ 2/3 Dylematu | 16m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
gloomy start
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V+ | ★ Klasyczna | 16m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great unique route, traverses the wall and succeeds to make you feel uncomfortable. I think it rather makes sense to go to the higher anchor on the left
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V+ | ★ Zero dylematu | 16m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Different ending than 2/3 Dylematu and Placebo, it was interesting
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Sun 26th Sep 2021 - Jura | ||||||
Jura Południowa Dolina Szklarki Słoneczne Skały Filarek Bularza i Płyta Benduskiego | ||||||
V+ | Shrek | 15m, 4 | Crap | |||
V+ | Shrek | 15m, 4 | Crap | |||
V+ | Shrek | 15m, 4 | Crap | |||
V+ | Shrek | 15m, 4 | Crap | |||
V+ | Shrek | 15m, 4 | Crap | |||
Tired after all the climbing today, I really struggled but felt I have unfinished business with this ugly route. And now I am really done and I can move on in my life
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VI | ★★ Mała płytka | 13m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Nice route on great jugs. It's slippery at places
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Sun 26th Sep 2021 - Jura | ||||||
Jura Południowa Dolina Szklarki Słoneczne Skały Wschodni mur | ||||||
VI.1 | ★★★ Prawa palantówka | 13m | ★★★ Classic | |||
This route is hard to figure out, I can't imagine onsighting it since it requires a very exact sequence. Equipped with the beta, I managed - barely
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Sun 26th Sep 2021 - Jura | ||||||
Jura Południowa Dolina Szklarki Słoneczne Skały Ogrodzieniec | ||||||
V+ | Ciemna strona słońca | 18m, 7 | Don't Bother | |||
Do this route only if you want to do some adventure climbing: overgrown, weird bolting and movement...which is a pity because the top section could be actually quite nice
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VI | ★ Koniolub grubas | 16m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice crux
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VI | ★★ Byk wysokości | 16m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
This route is very successful at making you uncomfortable, which is what makes it special
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VI+ | ★★ Wiedźma Ple-Ple | 20m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
The crack offers some really interesting climbing in the bottom section, almost fell
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V+ | ★★ Kapitan Żbik | 14m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice warmup route
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Sat 11th Sep 2021 - Jura | ||||||
Jura Południowa Dolina Kobylańska Grupa Dwoistej Turni Rozwalista Turnia | ||||||
V+ | ★★ Połeć Gumy | 25m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Very nice traversing route, the most interesting one on this part of the wall
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IV+ | ★ Prawa dziupla | 25m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
some nice moves for a 4+
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III+ | ★★ Radocha kilofa | 25m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
good warmup
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VI | ★ Pierzchnięcie wprost | 25m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
Route with one hard move in the roof, can be done in few ways
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V+ | ★ Artur nie pierzchaj! | 25m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
Only interesting around the roof
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V+ | ★ Lewa dziupla | 25m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
The moves around the cave are quite cool. People tend to skip the crux to the left, but I found it's doable by going straight
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Sat 4th Sep 2021 - Jura | ||||||
Jura Południowa Dolina Szklarki Słoneczne Skały Szeroki Komin | ||||||
V | ★ Ja nie latam | 14m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Got through using a wet hold, there was no other way
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V | ★ Ja nie latam | 14m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Wet
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Sat 4th Sep 2021 - Jura | ||||||
Jura Południowa Dolina Szklarki Słoneczne Skały Przełaz | ||||||
IV+ | ★★ Schodki | 14m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Back in business, wrist felt okay
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V+ | ★★ Droga Burzyńskiego | 12m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Once you know the beta, it's easy
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V | ★★ Nic trudnego | 12m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sun 7th Mar 2021 - Jura | ||||||
Jura Południowa Dolina Kobylańska Grupa Żabiego Konia Żabi Koń | ||||||
V- | ★★ Jarzębinka | 35m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice adventure climb, got a bit lost in the upper part and had to return right. The first bolt is really high
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Sun 7th Mar 2021 - Jura | ||||||
Jura Południowa Dolina Kobylańska Grupa Zjazdowej Turni Filar obok Garażu | ||||||
VI.1+ | ★★★ Rysa obok Garażu | 15m, 7 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
This route is amazing, with some nice moves and different ways that you can do it. I got through the crux easily, but then totally pumped in the upper part. Somehow managed to hang on, it helps that the holds are good.
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III+ | ★ Lewa ścianka obok Garażu | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Good for a warmup, since it shares the anchor with other two easy routes
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V- | ★ Wariant dentysty | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Good for a warmup, since it shares the anchor with other two easy routes. This new route still needs some climbing as there's lots of loose rock
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IV+ | ★ Prawa ścianka obok Garażu | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Good for a warmup, since it shares the anchor with other two easy routes.
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VI- | ★★★ Komin Sasa | 13m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Very enjoyable chimney! You can do all kinds of jamming in it, including your head. Just the right amount of suffering in this one.
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VI.1+ | ★★★ Rysa obok Garażu | 15m, 7 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Took some time to figure out the crux and try various options
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Sun 28th Feb 2021 - Jura | ||||||
Jura Południowa Dolina Kobylańska Grupa Zjazdowej Turni Zjazdowa Turnia | ||||||
VI.1 | ★★ Hania | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
The crux of the route is really nice, makes you think before you solve it
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VI | ★★ As pik | 26m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Some nice moves in a chimney, the middle part is the best
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IV | ★★ Południowy komin | 30m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice chimney route, at one point you really jam almost all of your body
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VI.1+ | ★★★ Lewa pirania | 30m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Uff, this route is hard! The start is already tough before you find a kneebar and then a sequence to the third bolt. But that's not the end of your troubles, the upper half is equally hard where crack climbing skills really come in handy. Overall, great experience
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Sat 5th Dec 2020 - Jura | ||||||
Jura Południowa Dolina Będkowska Wąwóz Przecówki Brandysowa | ||||||
VI.1+ | ★ Rysa Kozickiego | 20m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
This route is not that nice and clearly it's not climbed often. I liked the crux move, but I think the bolting is unreasonably scarce
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VI.1+ | ★ Rysa Kozickiego | 20m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Fell in the crux at the bottom
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VI+ | ★★★ Półksiężyc | 23m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Nice crack route, there could be more bolts but it's alright
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Sun 15th Nov 2020 - Jura | ||||||
Jura Południowa Dolina Będkowska Grupa Dupy Słonia Dupa Słonia | ||||||
V+ | ★ Suchy Komin | 9m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
A bit of nice chimney climbing. The first clip is quite high
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IV+ | ★★★ Żółta Rysa | 10m, 5 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Great holds, nice enjoyable climbing. Unfortunately quite slippery
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V+ VI+ | ★★★ Dulferek | 11m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Interesting route, not sure what I feel about it. In some parts it gets a bit scary, but I enjoyed it and I understand why it's considered a classic
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IV | ★★ Komin Pokutników | 14m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||
This is what I call proper chimney climbing!
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Sun 15th Nov 2020 - Jura | ||||||
Jura Południowa Dolina Będkowska Grupa Dupy Słonia Turnia Lipczyńskiej | ||||||
VI | ★★★ Kant Lipczyńskiej | 20m, 7 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
This route is absolutely awesome. Great airy climbing on a nice edge - rock hugging encouraged
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Sat 14th Nov 2020 - Jura | ||||||
Jura Południowa Dolina Szklarki Łyse Skały Łysa | ||||||
V+ | ★★ Polska Partia Łysych | 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
The top part can be scary for people afraid of taking a big fall
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VI | ★★ Biedronka | 12m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
V | ★★★ Rocznica 11.11 | 19m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Slippery but classic
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VI+ | ★★ Piruet | 12m, 5 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
This is a really interesting route. You start climbing on the opposite wall and slowly push your way up through the chimney. The rest of face climbing is interesting as well, bit of crack climbing and finding your way through not obvious holds.
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VI+ VI | ★★ Filarek Ciszewskiego | 20m | ||||
I would say this route deserves the grade of at least VI+, it's quite hard and has some demanding moves
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Sat 19th Sep 2020 - Jura | ||||||
Jura Południowa Dolina Szklarki Słoneczne Skały Filarek Bularza i Płyta Benduskiego | ||||||
V+ | Shrek | 15m, 4 | Crap | |||
The problem with this route is the second clip, which is very high. If you don't read the route well and go right instead of going left, it's likely you will have a nasty fall above the first bolt. My twisted ankle can confirm
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IV | ★ Dokładka | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
The most slippery route I've encountered in Jura
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Sat 19th Sep 2020 - Jura | ||||||
Jura Południowa Dolina Szklarki Słoneczne Skały Przełaz | ||||||
V | ★★ Nic trudnego | 12m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
III+ | ★ Ciemna blondynka | 12m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Super slippery
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VI.2 VI.2/2+ | ★★★ Kompleks kurdupla | 12m, 8 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Almost got it, but ran out of energy and skin
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IV+ | ★★ Schodki | 14m, 5 | ★★ Very Good |