Azores Guide

Summary:

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638 routes in Region

Igneous Plutonic Igneous Volcanic

Escalada esportiva, Boulder e outros estilos

Lat / Long: 38.589948, -27.759885

descrição

The Azores are an island group that is located about 800 miles east of Portugal in the Atlantic Ocean. There is sport climbing, bouldering and deepwatersoloing on inland but mostly sea cliffs, because it can rain and grow a lot. Precipitation and humidity gets more the further west the island is, so Sao Miguel is comparatively dry, Terceira and Pico in the middle and Flores is super green.

Weather wise, the best months to visit for climbing are arguably June, July and August when temperatures are over 20°C and precipitation is at its lowest, but you can climb year round. Often clouds and rain are hanging deep above 200hm, but the coast cliffs are still dry. Also note the strong microclimates, wind and wave direction is important, on one side of an island it can rain and wave a lot while on the other side it is dry and calm. For rain days you can also explore various kilometer long lava tunnels.

Most cliffs were developed after 2008 and you see a learning process: The older drilling bolts start rusting, especially those close to the ocean, and on some crags they started rebolting with glue in bolts. So take care with bolt quality and decide yourself whether you trust them, take in mind there is no mountain rescue.

Good article about Azores climbing. 2 local guidebooks mentioned here.

acesso

There are normally direct flights from the US and Europe the Azores. Most flights will likely be in/out of Ponta Delgada (the largest city in the Azores, located on Sao Miguel Island), but som ir also going to Terceira. Once in the Azores, SATA, the local arm of Azores Airlines, offers short flights between each of the eight other Azorean islands. To fly is generally faster and similiar priced as ferries which even don't operate the whole year.

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189 routes in Area

Boulder, Escalada esportiva e outros estilos

Lat / Long: 37.808343, -25.496674

Summary:

18 routes in Crag

Mostly Escalada esportiva

Lat / Long: 37.861760, -25.850656

descrição

West facing crag at the Thermas da Ferraia.

Topo. Topo.

acesso

(37.861465, -25.851623)

(37.861774, -25.850650)

100m from the parking.

Summary:

10 routes in Crag

Caminhada íngreme Vertical Basalto Arbustos Sol todo o dia Proibido animal de estimação NÃO é apto para crianças Sudoeste Consolidado 20-30 min

All Escalada esportiva

Lat / Long: 37.851274, -25.763193

descrição

Newly developed crag. Sunny, good rock and magnificent view high over Sete Cidades. Strenous approach though, huge respect for the work and the motivation of the locals, that's climbing dedication!

Video bolting. More pictures and videos on facebook, instragram and youtube (search 'escalada Sete Cidades').

acesso

(37.843482, -25.770741)

(37.851249, -25.763209)

You can park 50m in the forest road. Follow the road for 1km, later it turns in a small adventurous path, until you see the wall above (here37.850239, -25.764559). There a path turns right (axe marks on trees) and shortly after up to the wall.

In november 2023 the approach involved quite a bit of mud, so better bring big boots and dry socks and shoes for the crag.

história

Bolting started in 2020 by Joia Rego and friends (his Youtube chanel).

Summary:

62 routes in Crag

Apto para pets Apto para crianças Sudeste Basalto Potencial de novas vias Consolidado 5-10 min Árvores caducifólias Sol pela manhã

Escalada esportiva, Boulder e outros estilos

Lat / Long: 37.732434, -25.494820

descrição

The Pedras Brancas climbing area is located in the parish of Água de Pau (municipality of Lagoa), on the Island of São Miguel, Azores. It has more than 40 sport climbing routes, equipped in basalt rock, with lengths between 5 and 25 meters, and difficulties ranging from grade 4 to grade 8. The wall is oriented to the southeast and offers better conditions for climbing during drier days (if there is heavy rainfall it may take up to 3 days to dry completely; if it rains little, the following day may offer already favorable conditions).

Topo and pdf guide. Topos. Topo. Video. Video.

acesso

(37.728840, -25.499818)

(37.731144, -25.495028)

The location of the wall coincides with point of interest No. 3 of the official trail “Rota da Água – Pedras Brancas” (PR41 SMI). By car, arriving at the Água de Pau Church, take the street that runs behind it, towards the football field. Follow this street for 500m, passing under the highway viaduct, after which you should continue for another 200m (do not turn onto the PR41 SMI pedestrian path). Turn right at the fork with a green gate and, a few meters ahead, next to a water tank, turn right again. Go up a concrete street for 700m, after which you will reach an intermediate access to the PR41 SMI route, on a section of street flanked on the left by a block wall. Try to park leaving space for agricultural machines to circulate. Continue on foot along the marked path (red-yellow signs) for another 700m until the first routes will appear on the left.

See pdf guide.

história

This climbing area was born from the pioneering work of local climbers Pedro Melo, Ernesto Silva and Luís Guimarães. They started by cleaning and equipping the “Ratattouille” route, on June 3, 2012, returning a few days later to equip the “Trinca Espinhas” (also known as “Comprida”). In mid-July, moved by the potential that seemed great on that wall, Paulo Vaz joined, equipping classics such as “Fonte” and “Ode to Jóia”. João Pereira (local climber), made his contribution, leaving his name on the “Mulata” and “Chapa” routes. A couple of years later, Paulo “Jóia” Rego, Tarso Costa and Za Patxillas expanded the number of routes by equipping “Estica Estica”, “São Sebastião”, “Dolmen” and others. The scenery was much more composed, but there was still room for lines that would make the area more complete and diverse. Starting their equipment work in 2019, Tomás Fontes and Bruno Bagnari expanded the offer by opening routes such as the “Richter Scale”, “Saltimbrocas”, “Quarto Crescente”, “Horas Extra” and “Ode Triunfal”, placing this area climbing in one of the most interesting and well developed in the Azores. It is also one of the largest to date, with more than 40 equipped routes.

Summary:

7 routes in Crag

Sul Basalto Potencial de novas vias Consolidado Arbustos 20-30 min Sol todo o dia

Mostly Escalada esportiva

Lat / Long: 37.756497, -25.512460

descrição

One of the best an the highest crag on Sao Miguel. Potential fore more good routes. Though higher altitude, so often in the clouds, but when then sunny! Listed here. Pictures.

acesso

(37.749475, -25.514900)

(37.756740, -25.512399)

Park at the side of the road and follow the hiking path up along the pastures. Later it turns right with some swings through forest. Then you reach another pasture and see the crag right up (see photo topo). Follow a small path right through bush to the last pasture directly south of the wall. There a path leads directly up to the right routes.

Summary:

10 routes in Crag

Basalto Sul <5 min Campo Sol todo o dia

Escalada em top rope e Escalada esportiva

Lat / Long: 37.742359, -25.575209

descrição

Little harbour crag. Most bolt plates removed (rust). Easy topropes (right routes) still possible from the lookout above.

Topo. Topo.

acesso

(37.742296, -25.575077)

Em Lagoa dirigir-se ate ao porto de pesca, ai virar-se para este, bem junto ao mar as paredes sao evidentes ao nosso lado esquerdo. O acesso podera ser feito por cima dos blocos de pedra a partir do porto, ou por um pequeno trilho que comeca a esquerd do miradouro existente por cima da falesia.

In Lagoa head to the fishing port, then turn east, right next to the sea the walls are evident on our left side. Access can be made over the stone blocks from the port, or via a small trail that starts to the left of the viewpoint above the cliff.

Summary:

1 route in Crag

NÃO é apto para crianças Igneous Volcanic Sul Potencial de novas vias Árvores caducifólias 10-20 min Sol todo o dia

All Escalada trad

Lat / Long: 37.757865, -25.407378

descrição

On the north side of the ake are big rock walls. Pictures of climbing at Facebook and Instagram.

acesso

(37.753091, -25.407200)

Follow the hiking trail until the east side of the lake (37.756742, -25.406391) and find you way the last 150m to the base of the wall.

Summary:

2 routes in Crag

Escalada esportiva e Escalada trad

Lat / Long: 37.775097, -25.304585

Summary:

4 routes in Field

All Boulder

Lat / Long: 37.763079, -25.737518

descrição

Photos and route list.

acesso

(37.763534, -25.737634)

Summary:

18 routes in Field

All Boulder

Lat / Long: 37.715762, -25.454024

acesso

(37.715415, -25.452078)

Summary:

1 route in Field

All Boulder

Lat / Long: 37.717200, -25.518054

acesso

(37.716984, -25.516821)

(37.716960, -25.517941)

Summary:

1 route in Field

All Boulder

Lat / Long: 37.718147, -25.483377

descrição

Listed here.

acesso

(37.719377, -25.481882)

Summary:

1 route in Crag

All Escalada em rocha

Lat / Long: 37.734596, -25.300899

descrição

More rock to explore...

Summary:

21 routes in Field

Apto para pets Apto para crianças Igneous Plutonic Oeste Potencial de novas vias Consolidado Campo <5 min Sol pela tarde Protegido do vento

All Boulder

Lat / Long: 37.847625, -25.160418

descrição

Very relaxed area perfect for picnic and hiking with some cool bouldering. Topo. Topos.

acesso

(37.846951, -25.160462)

(37.847601, -25.160360)

Easy access trough the center of Lomba da Fazenda village just behind the football pitch. Park at the parking lot and walk the stairs down into the park.

Summary:

6 routes in Field

Apto para pets Apto para crianças Sudoeste Igneous Plutonic Potencial de novas vias Campo <5 min Sol pela tarde

All Boulder

Lat / Long: 37.833951, -25.170530

descrição

Sometimes cloudy and humid area (tipical in the Azores) because it’s located in a elevated terrain. Listed here.

acesso

(37.833916, -25.170497)

Getting to Lomba da Fazenda church turn on the right up the mountain until you start seeing the boulders on the left side of the street!

Summary:

1 route in Field

All Boulder

Lat / Long: 37.841215, -25.162878

Summary:

17 routes in Field

Igneous Volcanic Potencial de novas vias <5 min

Mostly Boulder

Lat / Long: 37.853816, -25.294883

descrição

Little valley with various boulder oppurtunities ranging from waterfall to beach blocks.

acesso

(37.854124, -25.296251)

Summary:

5 routes in Field

Apto para pets Apto para crianças Igneous Plutonic <5 min Sol todo o dia Molha quando chove

All Boulder

Lat / Long: 37.839527, -25.364956

descrição

Beack block bouldering in wonderful scenery with a short approach.

acesso

(37.838403, -25.363921)

(37.839423, -25.365203)

From the parking walk down the stairs towards the beach. You pass by the "Big Block", more boulders further east. The sand each is 100m west.

Summary:

2 routes in Boulder

All Boulder

Lat / Long: 37.821957, -25.445157

descrição

Listed here.

acesso

(37.821974, -25.445184)

Location from here, somewhere in this area.

Summary:

1 route in Gym

All Boulder

Lat / Long: 37.745543, -25.654820

descrição

premissahibrida.com

Google maps

acesso

(37.745373, -25.654812)

Summary:

1 route in Gym

Fechado

All Boulder

descrição

R. das Laranjeiras 31, 9500-310 Ponta Delgada, Portugal.

On Google closed all time, not existing anymore.

Summary:

10 routes in Area

Escalada esportiva, Escalada em rocha e Escalada trad

Lat / Long: 36.973168, -25.104256

Summary:

8 routes in Crag

All Escalada esportiva

Lat / Long: 36.960648, -25.102432

descrição

Topo. Climbing in Almagreira, Brejo de Baixo, also mentioned here.

Summary:

1 route in Crag

All Escalada trad

Lat / Long: 36.931322, -25.064648

descrição

{Picture Abseiling](https://www.reddit.com/r/canyoneering/comments/ocj2mh/ribeira_de_malo%C3%A1s_st_maria_island_azores_portugal/?rdt=41817).

Summary:

1 route in Crag

All Escalada em rocha

Lat / Long: 36.981533, -25.060321

Summary:

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22 routes in Area

Boulder, Escalada esportiva e outros estilos

Lat / Long: 38.581190, -28.709488

Summary:

1 route in Crag

All Escalada trad

Lat / Long: 38.523541, -28.751416

acesso

(38.523472, -28.751298)

Summary:

8 routes in Field

Suave Abandonado Apto para pets Camping Banheiros <5 min Sol pela tarde Dries quickly Sol ao meio-dia Ventoso Permitido

All Boulder

Lat / Long: 38.592695, -28.827648

descrição

Coast boulering with view of Capelinhos volcano. For pictures see @ha_ca_basalto. Bring brushes as the frequent wind and volcanic ash make for some dusty surfaces, especially after winter.

acesso

Easy <5 min walk. Park at the main car park and then walk straight down towards the water.

Summary:

6 routes in Crag

Plano Basalto <5 min Sol pela manhã Sol ao meio-dia Molha quando chove Tolerado

All Escalada esportiva

Lat / Long: 38.528646, -28.632165

sumário

The first sport climbing sector of Faial island. Easily accessible sector with short routes through a basalt wall.

descrição

Short basalt routes < 10m with easy access right in the town of Horta near the football field of AAC Atletico. Equipped in 2023 with 316 stainless steel. For more information or images visit @ha_ca_basalto on Instagram or write a message to the local climbing club (escaladafaial.cemf@gmail.com).

questões de acesso

The crag is at the far end of a disused (dec. 2023) football field of a local stports club (AAC Atletico). Currently access is possible after notifying the AAC Atletico. For contact details you can write escaladafaial.cemf@gmail.com. Please be aware of any construction developments and respect close gates to maintain the good relations between climbers and the property owners.

acesso

Park in front of the police station and enter the ACC Atletico field by foot, then cross the football field.

ética

The local climbing club is still establishing itself and the image of climbing on the island, so please be friendly and respect members of the AAC Atletico to maintain the good relations.

história

This first outdoor sport climbing sector of Faial island was equipped in July 2023 by the local climbing club CEMF (Clube de Escalada e Montanhismo do Faial) with the help of members of the Terceira climbing club CDM (Clube Desportivo Montanheiros).

Summary:

4 routes in Field

All Boulder

Lat / Long: 38.634093, -28.673188

descrição

Boulders with ocean view near Porto da Eira. Pictures at @ha_ca_basalto.

Summary:

3 routes in Gym

All Escalada em top rope

Lat / Long: 38.532427, -28.629028

descrição

Gym. Pictures at @ha_ca_basalto.

sumário

Various boulders by the sea side pools of Castelo Branco. The concrete floors make for great surfaces to put the crash pads.

acesso

Park at the road up from the swimming pools and walk down the stairs.

ética

This is a public swimming area in the summer months, so if you plan to go during the swimming season (June - August), come early in the morining or late in the evening and always be respectful. Outside of the bathing season the area is mostly deserted.

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131 routes in Area

Escalada esportiva, Boulder e outros estilos

Lat / Long: 38.455120, -28.284362

descrição

Most outdoor people come to Pico for the hike to Mount Pico, but there are also 5 nice sport crags and some bouldering and deepwatersoloing possibilities. Pico has strong microclimates, so when there clouds, wind, rain or waves mayb try the other side of the island, it might be calm and sunny there. Route List.

Summary:

27 routes in Crag

Apto para pets Apto para crianças Norte Oeste Basalto Potencial de novas vias Consolidado <5 min Sol pela tarde Sombra todo o dia Seco quando chove

Mostly Escalada esportiva

Lat / Long: 38.488214, -28.233999

descrição

Small beach with 2 very good climbing walls. Gadanho wall is probably THE hardmover wall of the Azores - 30m steep basalt! In both sectors good glue in bolts.

Topo. Topo. Video. Pictures. Article Pico's Climbing Paradise with video.

acesso

(38.488940, -28.235316)

(38.488423, -28.233924)

Get to Baía de Canas and then follow the road along the coast to the end. Park there. After 100m you arrive directly at Cagarro Wall. Gadanho wall will be an overhanging cliff to your climber's right.

11/2023: To Gadanho wall is probably a good path, but it needs to be cleared. I found my way from Cagarro wall along the base of the wall.

Summary:

24 routes in Crag

Vertical Igneous Volcanic Sol pela tarde Abandonado Proibido animal de estimação NÃO é apto para crianças Oeste Consolidado 5-10 min

All Escalada esportiva

Lat / Long: 38.499880, -28.540277

descrição

Beautiful coast cliff with good rock. Unfortunately rusty bolts. Route List.

acesso

(38.502619, -28.539888)

(38.500040, -28.540412)

Walk south along the coast and later scramble down at the veach blocks until you see the first bolts.

It is also possible from the south, parking at Pocinho natural pool (38.497186, -28.538624). It is the same length, but a bit more block scrambling.

Summary:

16 routes in Crag

Proibido animal de estimação NÃO é apto para crianças Sudoeste Basalto Consolidado 5-10 min Sol pela tarde

Mostly Escalada esportiva

Lat / Long: 38.405314, -28.257354

descrição

Cliff crag with nice view to Mount Pico. Good rock quality! Bolts look little rusty but okayish?

Route list.

acesso

(38.404415, -28.256263)

(38.405153, -28.257305)

Park at the road end. Walk throuh the gap in the wall and the little staircase down. Scramble 100m right over the beach boulders to the wall.

Summary:

20 routes in Crag

Escalada Vertical Basalto Arbustos Sol todo o dia Abandonado Proibido animal de estimação NÃO é apto para crianças Sul Potencial de novas vias 20-30 min 30-45 min 45-60 min

All Escalada esportiva

Lat / Long: 38.405371, -28.060977

descrição

Amazing wall of 100s of meters length of superb rock up to 30m! Only shortcoming is the approach of strenous scrambling of the coast rocks. So only the first 2 sectors are developed and the beautiful main cliff is untouched. Topo. Topo.

acesso

(38.404027, -28.067112)

Walk down the road and path between 2 houses to get to the coast. Scramble strenously pathless over the rocks to the walls. 20min to reach 1st sector "Cinzas" (38.405017, -28.063322), 30min to sector "Ini" (38.405578, -28.062114), over 1 hour to the far right end of main sector.

Sector "Cinzas" (38.405017, -28.063322) is directly below a pasture if you look at the satelite picture map, maybe someone could clear a shorter approach there? Also the left route of sector "Ini" is called "Via de Acesso", it looks like you could scramble up right of it and the road above is not far?

From (38.407914, -28.058960) leads an easy road and path down to the ocean, the little peninsula Ponta da Baia Domingos Pereira, where you have a beautiful look at the main sector but cannot reach it... To save 1 way of scrambling you could abeil to the right part of the main sector. Or on calm days rent a boat...

Summary:

11 routes in Crag

Proibido animal de estimação NÃO é apto para crianças Basalto Norte Consolidado <5 min Sombra todo o dia

Mostly Escalada esportiva

Lat / Long: 38.555242, -28.449297

descrição

11 sport routes in basalt, running mostly through aesthetic cracks. Good belay terrace but close to the ocean, so it needs low waves. Bolts look okay. Topo.

acesso

(38.555887, -28.447045)

(38.555209, -28.449120)

Park in Cachorro. Walk 50m back to the main road and before the wall (38.555173, -28.447318) scramble down to the ocean and 150m along it to the crag.

Summary:

1 route in Crag

Caminhada íngreme Proibido animal de estimação NÃO é apto para crianças Igneous Volcanic Oeste Arbustos Sol pela tarde Molha quando chove Ventoso Descida caminhando

All Escalada alpina

Lat / Long: 38.468255, -28.399854

descrição

Highest mountain of Portugal, 2351m. Famous hike.

You need a permit (link). 11/2023 it costs 25€. The start is through the entrance house where you register and get a GPS sender. Opening hours are 8-18, if you come earlier you have to wait, employees arrive shortly before 8. Its okay, the hike should be 7 to 9 hours. The terrain is tricky vulcanic rock, you need step security, up is much easier and faster, down you need concentration and robust knees...

In 11/2023 we booked a permit a few days in advance and at climb day we were told that there is ice and crampons are mandatory. Without crampons you are only allowed to go to landmark 2 (200hm). There was no email or notification before, so people were really pissed of... The employees seemed helpless, they said they proposed an notification email or crampons rental at the house to their boss, but it seemed state bureaucracy and no one cares... So check before, there should be stores in Madalena which rent crampons or ask one of the guiding agencies, they and their clients had crampons, of course moneymachine...

acesso

(38.470850, -28.427104)

(38.468724, -28.399343)

The hike starts at Casa da Montanha. 47 numbered landmark poles to the top.

Summary:

3 routes in Boulder

Abandonado Apto para pets Apto para crianças Igneous Volcanic Campo <5 min Desescalada Sol todo o dia Molha quando chove

All Boulder

Lat / Long: 38.450728, -28.211901

descrição

The so-called “Bomba da Praínha” (Praínha bomb) is in fact a big size accretionary lava ball, 3.5m high and 10.8m in perimeter. Thus, unlike its name, the “Bomba da Praínha” was not formed by any explosive volcanic activity but otherwise is the result of a block of lava that, floating and rolling on the top of a lava flow, grew progressively.This accretionary lava ball is part of basaltic lava flows extruded from a scoria cone located to the west of the “Caveiro” geodetical mark and has an estimated maximum age of about 5,000 years.

acesso

(38.450706, -28.211898)

Boulder directly at the small road.

Summary:

4 routes in Field

Apto para pets Apto para crianças Igneous Plutonic Leste Oeste <5 min Sol pela tarde Sol pela manhã

All Boulder

Lat / Long: 38.551727, -28.505210

descrição

Little boulder spot with gravel landings next to a little harbour. On this map as bouldering spot.

acesso

(38.551423, -28.505061)

(38.551699, -28.505042)

Summary:

7 routes in Field

Apto para crianças Igneous Plutonic <5 min Sol todo o dia Protegido do vento

Boulder e Psicobloc

Lat / Long: 38.400283, -28.083052

descrição

Natural swimming pool with beton path and flatened areas beside, so very good landings for the boulders and deep water for solo.

acesso

(38.401011, -28.083424)

Walk 80m to the pool and you pass by the boulders.

Summary:

4 routes in Crag

Basalto Sul Potencial de novas vias <5 min Sol todo o dia

All Psicobloc

Lat / Long: 38.411585, -28.030609

descrição

Psicobloc!

acesso

(38.412847, -28.031004)

(38.411647, -28.029498)

Summary:

9 routes in Crag

Igneous Plutonic Potencial de novas vias <5 min Sombra todo o dia Seco quando chove Protegido do vento

Mostly Escalada alpina

Lat / Long: 38.493667, -28.447600

descrição

Various lava tunnels to explore, some >1km! And dry flashlight bouldering possible

acesso

(38.496022, -28.446819)

história

The hermit Brother Matias used to live in the cave.

Summary:

1 route in Crag

All Psicobloc

Lat / Long: 38.536287, -28.336156

descrição

Possibility for deepwatersoloing. There is a staircase going down to the water where you can start traversing. Or try the other side.

acesso

(38.536137, -28.335962)

Summary:

4 routes in Crag

All Escalada esportiva

Lat / Long: 38.533613, -28.524674

descrição

Route list.

Summary:

28 routes in Area

Mostly Escalada esportiva

Lat / Long: 38.644049, -28.050301

Summary:

20 routes in Crag

All Escalada esportiva

Lat / Long: 38.641817, -28.123964

descrição

Topo. Topo.

acesso

In the southeastern part of the island, in a locality Urzelina.

Summary:

7 routes in Crag

All Escalada esportiva

Lat / Long: 38.679907, -28.051480

descrição

In this fajã (a kind of bay built as a result of a landslide) there’s a beautiful lake, you can’t miss swimming in it!

Topo. Picture. Topo.

acesso

(38.679499, -28.051584)

In the northern part of the island, in Fajã do Ouvidor, the closest bigger locality is Norte Grande.

Summary:

1 route in Crag

All Psicobloc

descrição

Route list.

acesso

South Sao Jorge.

Summary:

1 route in Area

All Psicobloc

Lat / Long: 39.053450, -28.002243

Summary:

1 route in Crag

Lat / Long: 39.011262, -27.957579

Summary:

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250 routes in Area

Escalada esportiva, Boulder e outros estilos

Lat / Long: 38.716292, -27.209397

descrição

Video.

Summary:

115 routes in Crag

Mostly Escalada esportiva

Lat / Long: 38.659071, -27.292738

descrição

Climbing area with around 80 sport climbing routes with a maximum height of 15 meters, volcanic rock, with a maximum grade of 8a, with the largest percentage of routes graded between 6a and 7a.

Topos. Photo. Topos. Video. Video. Blog and pictures. Video.

Summary:

59 routes in Crag

Boulder e Escalada esportiva

Lat / Long: 38.668588, -27.222633

Summary:

22 routes in Crag

Abandonado Igneous Plutonic Leste Consolidado 5-10 min Árvores caducifólias Sol pela manhã Protegido do vento

Mostly Escalada esportiva

Lat / Long: 38.676020, -27.224872

descrição

Crag in a forest, it was an ancient village, stairs and walls around the sectors. Routes up to 12m, good bolts, very good rock. Moss grows fast, so bring a brush! (Don't be discouraged by the pictures, the crag is in higher altitude and was suckingly wet after days in november clouds. I summer when i's dry it's probably nice...) Topo. Video.

acesso

Most north sector "Entrada": (38.676599, -27.225008)

Most south sector "Penedo de Sao Pedro": (38.675503, -27.224872)

Approach 1: The topo map is confusing, especially the north arrow is wrong (north is left on the map). After finding Approach 2 I figured out: This (38.679171, -27.224914) is the parking and the house on the map. At the small approach road is a "privte" sign, I didn't check it.

Approach 2: Park here (38.675494, -27.223023). Walk up the field to the most western corner (38.676331, -27.224367). Sector "Inspector Max" is left up shortly through the forest, sector "Entrada" right up.

Summary:

19 routes in Crag

Abandonado Proibido animal de estimação NÃO é apto para crianças Basalto Norte Potencial de novas vias 10-20 min Sombra todo o dia

All Escalada esportiva

Lat / Long: 38.796234, -27.241237

descrição

Comment 2010: The islands newest climbing area. With around 20 sport climbing routes, the average height is around 25 meters. Still many routes to be followed.

Huge sea cliff in the north of the island. It consists of 3 parts with beaches divided by 2 huge pillars reaching in the ocean. "Biscoitos West" looks easy accessible when there are no big waves (the day i was there), maybe sector "Betacreator" is there? I found an approach involving a little abseil from on iron pillar to "Biscoitos East" - wonderful big cliff from a pebble beach but no bolts - big potential! To the developed sectors of "Biscoitos Central" i didn't find a way, you probably need to go through the private properties above and abseil/scramble down right of sector "Pasta Mole"?

Topos. Topos. Pictures. Pictures.

Summary:

5 routes in Crag

All Escalada esportiva

Lat / Long: 38.772098, -27.255273

descrição

"Sports climbing among green fields and pastures full of cows. From some routes there’s a view for the ocean. Some routes are as easy as climbing a ladder, others are for adventurers. Caparica is located close to Biscoitos, but you will need a person who knows the site, because it’s quite difficult to find those rocks. (source)" Incomplete route list.

acesso

(,?,?)

Caparica is this village (38.784704, -27.253044), so probably in the fields south of it. (I was driving around a bit, but didn't find it.)

Summary:

7 routes in Area

Escalada esportiva, Boulder e Escalada trad

Lat / Long: 38.675889, -27.327664

Summary:

5 routes in Crag

Suave Basalto Arbustos Sombra todo o dia Ventoso Apto para pets Apto para crianças Norte Potencial de novas vias <5 min

All Escalada esportiva

Lat / Long: 38.767093, -27.374893

descrição

Wonderfull view high above the ocean. Only the good accessible small cliff below the miradour has some bolts, but it is a huge cliff up to 80m out of the ocean! Listed here.

acesso

(38.766573, -27.375704)

(38.767234, -27.374831)

From the parking bay walk 50m down the road to the terrace where the bolts are. Then you can go up the stairs to the upper miradour, north of it you can scramble down with a fixed rope to another little terrace with deep ocean views and more potential airy climbing.

Summary:

3 routes in Crag

All Escalada esportiva

Lat / Long: 38.713941, -27.368566

descrição

Listed here.

Summary:

3 routes in Crag

Sudoeste Potencial de novas vias <5 min Árvores caducifólias Sol pela tarde

Escalada esportiva e Boulder

Lat / Long: 38.662309, -27.228619

descrição

Little cliff visible from the road. There are 2 bolted lines far left. The middle and right parts have potential for more routes. Good bouldering too.

acesso

(38.662416, -27.228836)

Summary:

2 routes in Crag

All Escalada trad

Lat / Long: 38.641170, -27.221263

descrição

Topo.

Summary:

2 routes in Gym

Escalada esportiva e Boulder

Lat / Long: 38.661250, -27.242391

descrição

Sports hall by a school, where a bouldering wall and a sports climbing wall are located. You can climb there during the trainings of Clube Desportivo dos Montanheiros. You have to contact the club in advance, to determine the details. Currently (April 2019) there are trainings every Wednesday at 6:30 p.m.

Website. Article and photos.

acesso

(38.662479, -27.242137)

Ginásio da Escola Básica e Secundária Tomás de Borba – S. Carlos

Summary:

1 route in Gym

All Boulder

Lat / Long: 38.649669, -27.224878

descrição

Article.

Summary:

1 route in Crag

All Escalada alpina

Lat / Long: 38.644305, -27.106357

descrição

250m lava tunnel that starts at the ocean. Wikipedia.

acesso

(38.644943, -27.104989)

(38.644252, -27.106324)

At the sign walk down to the coast, then 40m right until beton stairs are going down to the ocean. There 30m right (west) and a last easy climb around a corner to the tunnel entrance.

Summary:

4 routes in Area

Basalto Nordeste Potencial de novas vias <5 min Campo Sombra todo o dia

All Escalada esportiva

Lat / Long: 38.793466, -27.193227