Vias como sport em The Creche

Shares the 1st 3 bolts with 'Arielle'. Climb up left on the right hand edge of the nice-looking smooth face to anchors on the left wall at 3/4 height, about 8m right of 'The Huffing Warthog'.

The extension of 'M J'. In its current state, loose and unpleasant. BEWARE! Don’t climb it. Natural Anchor

Tagged. Major corner on the left of the Creche. Opened by 'Arielle' on her 9th birthday. Climb to the anchors under the roof.

'Talia' Left hand Variant. Starting in the corner climb up right to the 2nd bolt on 'Talia' & up to the anchors 3m right of the major corner.

'Exodus' Left hand variation. Starts up 'Max' heading diagonally right, crosses 'Talia' & joins 'Exodus' on the long ledge. Finish up just left of the fig tree.

A longish traverse and a quick way to climb out after the day's climbing. Starting at 'Max' in the major corner, climb up to the ledge at 'Exodus' 3rd bolt. Traverse right then diagonally right over a small fig to exit above 'Crouching Tiger'. Belay at the chains above the huge sloping block, or lower back to the ground. Someone will probably have to follow the climb due to the difficulty of cleaning on rappel.

Marked. Max (Gus' Weimaraner) has soloed this more times than you can count. Starting at the major corner, go diagonally right (as for 'Bongo'). Continue along the ledge around the (2nd) small fig tree, cross the major crack line to a 3 bolt anchor. Clip them and lower to the ground for your first lead. The 2nd can clean the draws and rap off the anchors. Alternatively reverse the traverse leftwards, removing draws from the bolts as you go, then carefully down climb to the ground in the corner.

12 [20D] The extension of 'Max' along '1000000' (lower than DOUBT) traversing the whole slab to finish at the top of the arete at 'Kaj' anchors. Very cruisy so you can stop many times to admire the view onto the great red walls under the farmhouse. Can be climbed as 1 pitch (long draws may be useful) or broken into 2 pitches at the 3 bolt anchor of 'Max'.

The extension of MAX taking the high traverse of 'Doubt' to the 'Moaah' anchors near the arête. Clean on top rope.

Start 3m right of the major corner at a hard start. Straight up to the anchors shared with 'Dot'. Opened on her 13th birthday.

Starting 1m right of 'Talia' 1st bolt, climb up and right passing just left of a fig tree to anchors under the roof 6m from the major corner.

Using 'Return Of The Avatar' 1st 2 brackets, climb up and continue left of the fig tree to the 'Exodus' U-bolt anchors.

Gently scrambles up from left of the tree, heading diagonally right to easily accessible chains.

Starts a couple meters left of 'Milou', up generally easy slab to bolted anchor at the base of the obvious arête in the upper part of the cliff.

An extension of either 'Bob' or 'Milou' -- climb the striking arête near the top of the cliff.

Starts just left of the tree at the base of 'Crouching Tiger'. Halfway up the face there is a u-bolt anchor before the final crux. A must do, especially if you are old enough to walk.

Shorter and easier than 'Milou', stopping before the final crux head wall. Use the 3 bolt anchors to the right on 'Max', or the 2 bolt anchor on 'Don'.

A direct way to the 3 U-bolt 'Max' anchors. Start up the faint crack 1m left of 'Crouching Tiger' tree. After 4 U-bolts, trend right onto 'Crouching Tiger' crack.

The extension of 'Garfield' to the chains near the sloping block at the very top.

Starts on a block just right of the tree growing out of the crack line that makes up this route.

Originally 10 bolts, now extended another 3 (U-bolts) past the original anchor, to bring total to 13 bolts, and finishes on anchors visible at the skyline.

Follows the double black mark-ed bolts, starting at 'Max' finishing anchors. Can be accessed in a few other ways eg up 'Felix', 'Garfield'. From 3 U-bolt anchor move right then slightly down & cross cleft. Traverse right till black water streak on ROSY/MORT. Climb diagonally up into the tiny recess, then continue diagonally right to the top of the arête at 'Moaah' anchors. The view and situation on the face here would merit several stars even with poor climbing. Which it isn’t.

Follows the red mark-ed bolts starting at 'Max' s finishing anchors. Can be accessed in a few other ways (eg 'Crouching Tiger'). From the 3 bolt anchors, traverse right 2-3m along the ledge then up to the next ledge and continue traversing right crossing the cleft about 2m higher than '1000000'. Continue rightward crossing the black water streak ('1000000' comes up here), then go diagonally right to near the top of the arête at 'Moaah' anchors.

Shares the first bolt with 'Crouching Tiger', then climb up the slab.

Start just right of 'Mel', following U-bolts up diagonally rightwards then up to anchor.

Starting up 'Als' first 2 bolts, move diagonally right to the big crack/cleft above the tree. Up the left hand side of the cleft following MTYJ (brackets) to chains. Currently run-out above the tree.

Traverse up and right following the black mark-ed bolts (and cable!). Start up 2 bolts of 'Als', up another move as for 'Jane', then traverse behind the large tree and across the square ledge. Step up right onto the slab, similar to 'Kaj', and traverse right to the 3 U-bolt anchor at a ledge close to the arête. From here one may rappel/lower off, or bring up a 2nd then do any of the 4 right hand routes on this slabby perched face. Can easily be soloed up or down with the via ferrata but know how to use the via ferrata safely before trying this. The via ferrata becomes way more technical and exposed going around the arête into the gully.

Boulder up the arête of the left facing corner (harder if you keep left of the arête), then step across onto the main face and up. An easier alternative is to start right of the arête, follow two u-bolts to ledge, and then stepping left onto main face.

A better start to MTYJ, 1-2 right of the arête. Follow U-bolts to the ledge, then up the cleft starting on left. Currently run-out (for a 10 leader) above the tree.

Start inside a straddle width chimney 20m right of the obvious 'The Huffing Warthog' crack. Reach a large picnic ledge after 2 bolts and continue onto the main face going slightly left.

From the block, go up and right following U-bolts, and staying on the slab left of the black water streak.

After toppinig the block, go right for a few meters, then follow P-bolts up crossing the black streak.

Traverse even farther right, past the black streak, and follow U-bolts up to anchors.

(12D or 7D from ledge) From the ledge, go up and right towards the arête (anchor at start of arête ), then climb the exposed arête .

May be worth climbing 'Mort' / 'Rosy' and the lowering to the ledge & anchors at the start and just climbing the arête .

Up using the in-cut footholds and a rung for protection only to the first small U-bolt, to an obvious foot-rail at 3m. Go left along this to the arête – using several in-obvious under-clings. Up the arête to a ledge shared with 'Kaj'. Climb the arête as for 'Kaj', but use the anchors just right of the arête to minimize rope drag. Easier if you are tall.

Start left of the bolt ladder to the foot rail, as for 'Boy'. Continue up the easy notched arêtelette in the face. It gets thinner at the top, going up slightly left to a better hold. Could be harder for short climbers.

As for 'Kajboy' to 5th bolt. Continue up straight or slightly right, via a 2cm foothold and Rright slanting crimp to a hard finish. Will be harder still for shorter climbers.

Climb up to the ledge above the bolt ladder. Not using the tree or ladder is 13. Up to the smaller ledge and stem the gap to gain the arête on the other side. Up this on ring bolts noting the (safe!) stacked blocks at top.

Looks like a nightmarish, downward-flaring, overhanging chimney. A happy surprise awaits you. Start at the back of the chimney 6m right of the bolt ladder. Up and traverse outwards on footrails. Beware loose stones deep in the slot. It may be necessary for the 2nd to follow to clean this route.

Start on the broken looking corner with an hourglass feature halfway up the arête.

Approach from the left to gain a platform beneath a tree. Step across onto blocky rock. Climb the prominent layback crack. Halfway up the route changes from crack climbing to face climbing.

Not as closely bolted as most other climbs at 'The Creche'.

Climb onto a ledge towards a crack leading steeply through the double and up.

Start 2m right of 'Excuse Me While I Kiss the Sky'