Nodes em Taka Mountains

Amazing climbing on steep terrain on a continuous feature the whole way. The rock quality on the higher pitches is outstanding with interesting and fun climbing on positive holds.

Starts with several slab pitches to gain the higher crack system that leads to the summit. This route gave some nice climbing on varied terrain. Climbed ground up, bolted belays with mixed climbing. The rap line at the bottom is different to the starting pitches as they move diagonally, the rap line would make 3 great pitches of slab.

From the Totiel tea houses hike up to the south ridge of Jebel Totiel for 1 hour. Pitch 1 starts in the groove as you scramble onto the cliff. An easy 5a pitch for 50m. The pitch seems to have 3 variations from the same starting point and all have fixed anchors at the belay. From any of the belays scramble up and left to the base of the next wall. Climb the stacked blocks (4a) to reach a bolt with ring. The second pitch starts here. Pitch 2 50m (6a) Up the unprotected slab to the base of the obvious corner. Climb corner past the tree to make the ledge out left at the end of the corner and belay on bolts. Pitch 3 (4a) traverses far left before heading straight up on easier rock and belay off blocks. There is a single rap bolt further right which lines up with the previous belay. Single rack of cams 60m doubles to descend route Faces south so you will get cooked in the sun if you don't start early. 1 hour to the base of route, 2 hours to summit

Great mixed climbing that gets only a few hours of morning sun. Established ground up.

A great line up the massive crack you can see from town. Many belays are fixed but in very poor condition, take some cord. Can run many pitches together at the end.

L 1 65 m 6a Go up a varied crack and relay on the right. L 2 35 m 6b + Go up a first steep wall (1 bolt) then in stem a vertical jump initiating the crack of the following lengths. Avoid pulling on the two stuck scales and climb with finesse. L 3 45 m 6a Reassemble a fine plugged crack (1 spit) then this same crack over the entire length. L 4 45 m 5+ Go up a chimney at the bottom and reach the belay on a less inclined area. L 5 50 m 5+ An exceptional length taking place on sculpted rock between two cracks. L 6 45 m 5+ Go up a fireplace. L 7 45 m 5 then 3+ Follow the crack until it tilts. Gain a terrace to relay L 8 40 m 5 Go up a chimney. L 9 20 m 3+ Exit the crack by a chimney. L 10 70 m 3 Climb a small step and gain a foothold on the slabs on the right, allowing to gain a pass. From this pass, join the normal route of Jebel Taka to reach the summit in 45 minutes of hiking-climbing (slabs in 3). See 1939 Brown-Hodgkin route.

The original way to the summit. Really only one pitch of climbing, the rest is an easy solo if comfortable with exposure. There is 2 fixed hand made pegs that look to be from original ascent. Start on the NE side of Jebal Take North. scramble up broken slabs to reach a ledge with a left facing corner for a long 60m pitch. Then continue up to a plateau and cross to Jebal Taka main summit. Wander up the face following faint crack lines left then right.

An athletic climbing in a wide crack. Starts on the south face