Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Alborz Baraghan Upper Baraghan (Zone B) | |||||
5.10c | ★★★ Polur
A nice small crack on the corner of the rock , with beautiful balancey movement Set: Hamid | 12m, 8 | |||
5.11c | ★★★ Laneh ( Nest )
Nice slab with small holds and some holes . Really amazing | 12m, 8 | |||
5.11c | ★★ Pashneh ( Heel )
An amazing slab with lots of heels movement on it . Small ledges ends to the chain in the anchor FA: Amin Pilaram | 8m, 6 | |||
5.11d | ★★★ khoshdast
Strong moves between holes on the wall and a small traverse to left and the anchor . | 12m, 9 | |||
5.10c | ★★ Charyar
Nice slab with many holes on it . The route is easy mostly except the last move on the slab before traverse to the anchor | 10m, 8 | |||
5.10d | ★★ Sadr
nice beautiful slab goes up and then traverse below a small overhang to right and to the anchor | 11m, 9 | |||
5.12b | ★★ Rola Rola
A tough slab with small holds start with some hard movement | 20m, 12 | |||
5.12d | ★★ Khesht
Start from the ground and goes directly up to the overhang just continue to the right of overhang . Small holes and tough slab | 20m, 13 | |||
5.12d | ★★ Memory
Common with Khesht on last part but it passes directly through the overhang . | 20m, 14 | |||
5.12a | ★★ Khoshmaghz
Goes up and common with Memory on the first part but instead of going to overhang it starts to pass and traverse diagonally to the left and up . | 15m, 12 | |||
5.12b | ★★ Ferche
moves through the edge of the rock on the left side of Khosh maghz route . | 15m, 11 | |||
Femin
| 9m, 7 | ||||
Kavian
| 10m, 8 | ||||
Alborz Baraghan Baraghan (Zone A) | |||||
{FR} 5c | Anushe
| 6 | |||
{FR} 6a | ★ Mikalanj
| 6 | |||
5.11b | ★★ Soli
| 16m, 8 | |||
FR:7b | ★★ Morabbi ( Instructor )
| 16m, 10 | |||
{FR} 6a | Ganj
| 6 | |||
5.12b | Kargadan ( Rhino )
Unfinished | 5 | |||
5.12b | ★★ Sami
moves on the left edge of the third cave | 9m, 5 | |||
5.13a | Nikta
common with Ati until the end part and Nikta goes to left . | 13m, 8 | |||
{FR} 7a | ★★★ Ati
On the edge of the third cave , directly goes up to the chain anchor FA: | 12m, 7 | |||
5.13a | ★★ Bache Tehron ( From Tehran )
an amazing route on the roof of the second cave with good holds but breathtaking movements . FA: | 17m, 12 | |||
5.14a | Khon Asham
| 17m, 16 | |||
5.13a | ★★ Pedaropesar ( Father and the son )
Moves directly toward the roof of the second cave to come out and join the manoto route . FA: | 15m, 13 | |||
5.13a | ★★ manoto ( Me and You )
on the right corner of the second cave , it moves up on the ledge with some amazing movements and then traverse to left . FA: | 17m, 11 | |||
{FR} 7b+ | ★★★ Adventures of Pinocchio
Enter the smaller cave and turn around facing the outside. The route starts on your right and traverses the roof to left, ending at the centre of the cave. Cruxy start, sustained at the beginning but eases towards the end. Crag classic. FA: Nasim Eshqi Set: Nasim Eshqi, 2013 | 20m, 10 | |||
5.10d | ★★ 2 saleha ( 2 years old )
on the right corner of the rock , a slab with good holds but a bit far from each other shows itself | 15m, 10 | |||
{FR} 7a+ | ★★ Delbar
First cave, on the left. Bouldery start that continues on with sustained climbing. Finish up on Adventure of Pinocchio bolted anchor Set: Nasim Eshqi, 7 Jun 2017 FA: Hamid Habibzadeh, 8 Jun 2017 | 15m, 6 | |||
{FR} 7b | ★★★ Javaherpour
Start from the inside of the left opening of the larger cave, continue on to leave the cave on two finger pockets and small positive crimps and climb straight up kneebaring and pinching between the two tufas to the top. Bouldery finish. FA: Nasim Eshqi Set: Nasim Eshqi & Sina Heidari, 15 Apr 2018 | 25m, 12 | |||
{FR} 7b/b+ | ★★★ Haji Firooz
On the outer lip of the right side of the smaller cave. A reasonably steep and slightly overhang start. Continues on across the outer face of the cave. Technical moves near the top with very small crimps and foot holds. FA: Nasim Eshqi Set: Nasim Eshqi & Sina Heidari, 5 Jun 2018 | 25m, 11 | |||
{FR} 8b | ★★★ Mr. Nobody
The slippery limestone roof crack line at the end of the bigger cave, starting from the right and going to left, ending at the centre of the roof. Requires plenty of hand and foot jamming to send. There is no kidding around on this route. It needs plenty of technique and endurance as you are hanging off the roof for 20m. Bonus points if you find the kneebar giving you upside down handsfree rest. End with a bouldery problem at the anchor. The route has seen several attempts by European climbers. Could potentially be done trad. Set: Nasim Eshqi & Khashayar Mortazavi, 27 Jun 2016 FA: Khosro Hashemzadeh, 1 Jun 2017 | 25m, 13 | |||
5.12a | ★★ Mano Negah kon ( Look at me )
Nice and amazing crack | 20m, 13 | |||
Alborz Polekhab | |||||
5.11d | ★★ Arash
Same bolts as route Khanum Khoshgeleh at the beginning, than the route goes left. | 20m, 20, 11 | |||
5.10c | Khanom Khoshgele | 20m, 20 | |||
5.12c | Mohre Mar | 25m, 25, 11 | |||
5.13a | Nadi (morteza)
Name of the route is standing at the wall | 22m, 22, 13 | |||
5.11b | ★★ Brono
You see the route name at the wall. Climbing up to the roof and than traverse to the right. | 25m, 25, 13 | |||
5.10b | ★★ Wolf | 18m, 18, 8 | |||
5.12b | Totem | 20m, 20, 8 | |||
5.12c/d | Guy Daniel | 20m, 20, 11 | |||
5.13a/b | Malek | 20m, 20, 10 | |||
5.12d/13a | Zemestan | 20m, 20, 9 | |||
5.11b | ★★ Omid
You see the route name on the wall. About 17 routes left of Iranian Swiss. | 20m, 20, 8 | |||
★★ .. | 25m | ||||
5.14a | ★★★ Iran-swiss | 25m | |||
{UIAA} FR:6a | ★ Kaj
Bit tricky the first two or three draws. From onto the shelf and up top a pretty easy climb | 27m, 8 | |||
{FR} 6+ | ★★ Armin | 27m | |||
5.12b | ★★★ Farshad
Start off a small crack, on reachy moves up to a small overhang. Sloppy holds and sustained moves over it (cruxy). Slippery holds to the anchor. FA: Set: 2007 | 27m, 11 | |||
5.12a | ★★★ Shekaaf Davoodi
Beautiful 20m long crack, up to a small rooflet on the left. Anchors on top of the rooflet FA: Mohammad Davoudi, 1983 | 30m, 11 | |||
5.12d | ★★★ G.H.M
By the French Alpine Club, on the face right of the dihedral. Start of the small vertical holds on a minor cruxy slab Set: Philip Pat, 2007 | 20m, 10 | |||
5.13d | ★★ Pink Panther
Route on the arete. Technical moves on very small balancy holds. Topp out on Parastooha anchor. FA: FA: 2010 | 20m, 11 | |||
5.11b | ★★ H
Crag classic. A crack that could be climbed trad. Technical feet moves to the crescent looking crack. A strong bloudery move, layback to the top of the first pitch. The first pitch is popular at 7a/11b. Bolted crack that finishes with an 8m sharp layback crack that climbs beautifully. | 20m, 9 | |||
5.11d | ★★★ Doostat daram
A gorgeous crack on good quality rock. 10m up and then start traversing right along the rooflet. A small overhang crux to the anchor points. Could be climbed trad. | 20m, 8 | |||
5.11a | ★★★ Shirin
A great route. Start Right of the bolted rightwards arcing crack (Doostat daram) and climb the face traversing right past increasingly delicate moves on great rock. | 20m, 9 | |||
5.12a | Madar (mother)
Starts of Shirin but traverse lower than Shirin and end up on Shirin's anchor. | 20m, 8 | |||
5.12a | ★ Esi
Starts with a bouldery problem and onto a slabby climb to the anchor FA: | 20m, 8 | |||
5.11d | ★★★ Zire baran
Starts off a small awkward crack on a slab. Climb 15m to reach a small overhang on the right. Traverse right to the larger rooflet, ending up the right of the rooflet (spicy). Face climb on friction holds to the anchor Set: 1994 | 30m, 12 | |||
Eftekhar
Face climbing on very small balancy, reachy holds. Sounds inviting, doesn't it? | 20m, 9 | ||||
5.12b | Boycott
Vertical climb on small holds. Awkward and technical. Up the arete and onto the face. A skewed crack with decreasing footholds. Barndoor heaven! FA: | 20m, 8 | |||
5.10d/11a | ★★★ Rojja
Crag classic - Starts in the chimney onto an overhang. Technical climb the dihedral to a small rest. Move slightly to the right and climb up to the anchor. FA: | 25m | |||
5.12a | ★★ Q
Start steming on slabs, sustained moves to the top. | 25m, 12 | |||
5.10b | ★★★ Sisakht
1
5.10b
25m
2
5.10a
25m
The first pitch (25m) is a good warm up in its own right and is popular. First pitch has a baby crux. Variety of holds to the anchor. The second pitch (25m) follow a crack to a ledge and is a bit sustained.
| 50m, 2, 23 | |||
5.11c | Rastakhiz
Shares the same first two pitches as Sisakht. Technical face start and a slight traverse to the right. FA: | 25m, 12 | |||
5.10c | ★★ Bobo
Balancy face climb. | 25m, 14 | |||
5.10c | ★★★ Abroftiha
1
5.9
30m
2
5.10c
30m
Start of the end of Sisakht.
| 60m, 2, 18 | |||
5.12d/13a | Ayandegan
Balancy, reachy powerful moves. Starts on the slab and a big crux over the rooflet. | 25m, 10 | |||
5.10a/b | ★★★ Marmoolak
A popular slabby route. The name comes from the nature of the movements, stretching hands and feet as a lizard. It can be climbed either direct to the top at 6b+ (recommended) or by darting rock to the crack at about 2/3 height. | 25m, 14 | |||
5.12b | ★★★ Super 8
Face climb on slight overhang. Crimpy with small footholds. 9 FB FA: Nasim Eshqi | 25m, 9 | |||
5.10c | ★★★ Kolahake Salam
Some i*iot has bolted this! Do it Trad as it's safer and more fun! Start from the small crack up to the rooflet, continue on along the crack. Grab a set of small cams (up to red cam) | 25m | |||
5.11a | ★★★ NTM
1
5.11a
25m
2
5.10d
25m
3
5.10c
25m
Take a long rope with you
| 75m, 3, 24 | |||
5.11c | ★★★ Hizomkar
Named after Hizomkar (climbing instructor). Face climb to the small rooflet on small crimps with tricky moves. Set: Nasim Eshqi FA: Nasim Eshqi | 25m, 8 | |||
Alborz Polekhab Canyon | |||||
5.11a | ★★★ Khers
A bouldery start to easier climb. Technical moves near the top for a glorious finish on good quality rock Set: Nasim Eshqi, Mohsen Vatanparast & Mehdi Dabirnia FA: Nasim Eshqi | 30m, 11 | |||
5.10d | ★★★ Sorheh
Same start as the Khers. Technical moves on the arete. Set: Nasim Eshqi, 21 Apr 2017 FA: Nasim Eshqi & Saeed Hoseini, 21 Apr 2017 FFA: Nasim Eshqi, 21 Apr 2017 | 30m, 12 | |||
Alborz Kalvan | |||||
5.12c | ★★★ Faramarz be quiet
The left variation of Iran Merinus, named in the honour of setters' good friend Faramarz who's apparently a bit of a handful 60 something year old dude. Smear away to a powerful bouldery move to the overhang. FA: Nasim Eshqi Set: Nasim Eshqi & Sina Heidari | 25m, 14 | |||
5.12b | ★★ Iranmerinos (crack)
A bouldery start on the overhang, onto small balancy stem-ing footholds. Traverse the roof crack to the cruxy move on the second roof. Adventurous hidden moves behind the rock and up to the anchor. FFA: Nasim Eshqi Set: Mohammad Saboori & Majid Ghasemi | 25m, 16 | |||
5.12a | ★★ Iranmerinos (face)
Instead of going up the crack on the 2nd rooflet, go for the bouldery moves on the face. | 25m | |||
5.13b | ★★★ Abbas is sleeping
The other friend of the setters -Abbas- a local legend, tends to spend his time sleeping at the crag. Double crux goodness at the start and end of the route. Technical moves on the vertical wall on small crimps and credit card footholds. Balancy. Set: Sina Heidari & Nasim Eshqi | 20m, 12 | |||
5.10a | Kelas avaliha
FA: Sina Heidari Set: Nasim Eshqi & Sina Heidari | 20m, 9 | |||
5.11a | ★★★ Dokhtar Shah Parian
Gentle climb without a crux, perfect for those comfortable on their feet. Slight overhang on the rooflet that can be mantled up. Pocket holds to the top. A lovely climb that is not to be missed. FA: Sina Heidari Set: Sina Heidari & Nasim Eshqi, 24 Feb 2020 | 20m | |||
Ketabe baz
This rock face has a slightly different colour and is of a different type. A blank 90+ degree arete with very few holds. A rather narrow crack to the side with only few finger tip holds Set: Nasim Eshqi & Sina Heidari | 20m, 9 | ||||
Western Azarbaijan Darband | |||||
5.13c | Blook | 15m, 11 | |||
5.12c | Puma | 11m, 2, 8 | |||
Sciatic | |||||
Western Azarbaijan Moso | |||||
5.10a | Mioo
Easy slab climbing. Be mindful of the tree roots to the right of the anchor. | 15m, 9 | |||
5.10a | Green
Easy climb with no real crux. Easy finish to the right, or power up to the left for a more spicey finish. | 20m, 9 | |||
5.10a | Tonso
Nice line, straight up. Easier on the left of the draws. | 18m, 8 | |||
5.11d | Mehrab
Climb on the face, power traverse to under the roof and then climb up and traverse left. No anchor so cleaning it is a nightmare. | 10m, 6 | |||
5.11a | ★ Friend
Nice easy multi-pitch up the face. Great rest half way up. Cruxy move on a good crimper and then easy climb to the first anchor. Not sure where the second anchor is. | 17m, 9 | |||
5.12a | ★★★ Khoffash (Bat)
First route at the very right hand lip of the cave. STRONGLY recommended to (you MUST. Bolts will be removed soon) stop at the 4th bolt (as drawn in the route diagram) as a bird has nested in the rock hole past this bolt. Powerful traverse on overhanging section. Be VERY mindful of the other bird nest to the far right of the second and below the third bolt. Where else will you get an opportunity to practice, crimps, pockets, sloppers, toe-heel lock, overhead undercling, and a knee bar, all in one climb? | 10m, 5 | |||
5.11a | ★★ Holoo (Peach)
2nd route inside the cave. Start 1m left of Khoffash. Gorgeous route, overhang all the way on beautiful pockets. Find the knee bar and make your send an easy one (if you're tall). Shorter senders may benefit from a right hand variant to the final bolt. No anchor makes it an absolute b*&$h to clean! Be nice and bring a bailout biner... | 10m, 5 | |||
Unnamed (open project)
New open project. Likely finishes at the same last bolt as Holoo (no anchor!) Be nice and bring a bailout biner... | 8m, 4 | ||||
Unknown
Appears to be an unfinished/semi-bolted route. Needs some love and imagination. | 5m, 3 | ||||
5.12a | Taalaan
Last route on the far left hand lip of the cave. Easy start leads to a powerful traverse to the lip of the cave. Engage toes or heels to make life easier. Practice your hangboard game for the next move and knee in for some rest. Finish at the rusted chain. | 8m, 5 | |||
Dragon
2m to the left of Taalaan. The very first route on the left side of the cave, on the outside. | 17m, 8 | ||||
5.10d | ★ French
Legend has it a French couple came in and bolted this beauty! Gorgeous climb with shiny new bolts. Beautiful and long, no real crux but some may find the traverse to the crack a bit exciting. | 25m, 12 | |||
Unknown
The last line of the crag. Starts 2m left of the French. Appears to share the same anchor at the top with French. | 15m, 7 | ||||
Western Azarbaijan Khan Darasi Khan Darasi Lower | |||||
5.11a | ★★ Solo
1
5.10b
2
5.10b
3
5.11a
4
5.9
(1) Feels likd 5.10b if you go to the left (via the crack) and right (skip the buldge) with the crux right before the first bolt. Cruisy climb to the anchor all the way. For a spicier climb, follow the bolted line exactly and be rewarded with a 5.11a climb. 9 FB (2) 5.10b Straight up from the anchor to the first bolt then lean to the right slightly and power up to the old rusty anchor. The pitons to the far right are not safe and belong to an old route. Bolts are spaced 2-3m apart but holds aplenty. 8 FB +1 Piton (3) 5.10d/11a Spaced-out bolts leads to enjoyable spicey climb. You do not want to fall off before the 2nd bolt as the ledge is awfully close. Belayer needs to be extra watchful. You also most certainly don't want to fall past the 6th bolt. It's a spicy 6m+ gap to the anchor on positively angled wall. Goodbye ankles and knees. Someone do everyone a favour and (a) whack another bolt between the 6th and the anchor (b) move the anchor up 6m to the next ledge. 6 FB (4) One bolt leads to a jungle of pitons and what have you, skip them all but one and just whack your quick draw on the next bolt. Cruisy climb leads to anchor at the top. Choss fest with rock falls all around. 5.9 | 80m, 4, 11 | |||
Kanoon
Old unmaintained route. DO NOT SEND. Third bolt is broken off and you WILL hit the ground if you take a fall. Does not appear to provide options for any gear either, so no mixed-climbing. | 12m, 6 | ||||
Western Azarbaijan Khan Darasi Khan Darasi Upper | |||||
5.12d | Tabiat
Short route and reasonably easy to get to. Set by four friends on the last day of a Persian new year. | 12m, 4 |