Routes as sport in Iran

Route on the arete. Technical moves on very small balancy holds. Topp out on Parastooha anchor.

The slippery limestone roof crack line at the end of the bigger cave, starting from the right and going to left, ending at the centre of the roof. Requires plenty of hand and foot jamming to send. There is no kidding around on this route. It needs plenty of technique and endurance as you are hanging off the roof for 20m. Bonus points if you find the kneebar giving you upside down handsfree rest. End with a bouldery problem at the anchor. The route has seen several attempts by European climbers. Could potentially be done trad.

The other friend of the setters -Abbas- a local legend, tends to spend his time sleeping at the crag. Double crux goodness at the start and end of the route. Technical moves on the vertical wall on small crimps and credit card footholds. Balancy.

Name of the route is standing at the wall

on the right corner of the second cave , it moves up on the ledge with some amazing movements and then traverse to left .

Moves directly toward the roof of the second cave to come out and join the manoto route .

an amazing route on the roof of the second cave with good holds but breathtaking movements .

common with Ati until the end part and Nikta goes to left .

Balancy, reachy powerful moves. Starts on the slab and a big crux over the rooflet.

Short route and reasonably easy to get to. Set by four friends on the last day of a Persian new year.

By the French Alpine Club, on the face right of the dihedral. Start of the small vertical holds on a minor cruxy slab

Common with Khesht on last part but it passes directly through the overhang .

Start from the ground and goes directly up to the overhang just continue to the right of overhang . Small holes and tough slab

The left variation of Iran Merinus, named in the honour of setters' good friend Faramarz who's apparently a bit of a handful 60 something year old dude. Smear away to a powerful bouldery move to the overhang.

Start with a small overhang and continues on the edge of the rock

Enter the smaller cave and turn around facing the outside. The route starts on your right and traverses the roof to left, ending at the centre of the cave. Cruxy start, sustained at the beginning but eases towards the end. Crag classic.

1. 10 FB - shared with Baharane

2. 15 FB

3. 12 FB

On the outer lip of the right side of the smaller cave. A reasonably steep and slightly overhang start. Continues on across the outer face of the cave. Technical moves near the top with very small crimps and foot holds.

1. 11 FB

2. 15 FB

3. 13 FB

4. 15 FB

A bouldery start on the overhang, onto small balancy stem-ing footholds. Traverse the roof crack to the cruxy move on the second roof. Adventurous hidden moves behind the rock and up to the anchor.

Face climb on slight overhang. Crimpy with small footholds. 9 FB

Vertical climb on small holds. Awkward and technical. Up the arete and onto the face. A skewed crack with decreasing footholds. Barndoor heaven!

Start off a small crack, on reachy moves up to a small overhang. Sloppy holds and sustained moves over it (cruxy). Slippery holds to the anchor.

moves on the left edge of the third cave

Unfinished

moves through the edge of the rock on the left side of Khosh maghz route .

A tough slab with small holds start with some hard movement

A slab with small and tiny holds .

starts with a small overhang and then continuing with some strong moves .

Directly where the walking track meets the cave there are several routes tackling the proud overhang. This is the left most route.

Start from the inside of the left opening of the larger cave, continue on to leave the cave on two finger pockets and small positive crimps and climb straight up kneebaring and pinching between the two tufas to the top. Bouldery finish.

1. 15 FB

2. 13 FB

3. 10 FB

4. 17 FB

Last route on the far left hand lip of the cave. Easy start leads to a powerful traverse to the lip of the cave. Engage toes or heels to make life easier. Practice your hangboard game for the next move and knee in for some rest. Finish at the rusted chain.

First route at the very right hand lip of the cave.

STRONGLY recommended to (you MUST. Bolts will be removed soon) stop at the 4th bolt (as drawn in the route diagram) as a bird has nested in the rock hole past this bolt. Powerful traverse on overhanging section. Be VERY mindful of the other bird nest to the far right of the second and below the third bolt.

Where else will you get an opportunity to practice, crimps, pockets, sloppers, toe-heel lock, overhead undercling, and a knee bar, all in one climb?

Instead of going up the crack on the 2nd rooflet, go for the bouldery moves on the face.

Start steming on slabs, sustained moves to the top.

Starts with a bouldery problem and onto a slabby climb to the anchor

Starts of Shirin but traverse lower than Shirin and end up on Shirin's anchor.

Beautiful 20m long crack, up to a small rooflet on the left. Anchors on top of the rooflet

Nice and amazing crack

Goes up and common with Memory on the first part but instead of going to overhang it starts to pass and traverse diagonally to the left and up .

First cave, on the left. Bouldery start that continues on with sustained climbing. Finish up on Adventure of Pinocchio bolted anchor

1. 6 FB

2. 3 FB

3. 21 FB

4. 15 FB

1. 10 FB

2. 17 FB

3. 10 FB

4. 10 FB

Climb on the face, power traverse to under the roof and then climb up and traverse left. No anchor so cleaning it is a nightmare.

Starts off a small awkward crack on a slab. Climb 15m to reach a small overhang on the right. Traverse right to the larger rooflet, ending up the right of the rooflet (spicy). Face climb on friction holds to the anchor

A gorgeous crack on good quality rock. 10m up and then start traversing right along the rooflet. A small overhang crux to the anchor points. Could be climbed trad.

Same bolts as route Khanum Khoshgeleh at the beginning, than the route goes left.

Strong moves between holes on the wall and a small traverse to left and the anchor .

Around the corner as the walking track continues towards the summit the wall eases off. This line tackles the proudest line 5m right of the arete. Great climbing on good rock.

On the edge of the third cave , directly goes up to the chain anchor

A nice route with lots of slab and crack climbing

1. 15 FB

2. 12 FB

3. 7 FB

4. 9 FB