Routes as sport in Iran

On the edge of the third cave , directly goes up to the chain anchor

A great route. Start Right of the bolted rightwards arcing crack (Doostat daram) and climb the face traversing right past increasingly delicate moves on great rock.

"Lion King" Start 50m up the canyon from Birjandiha at the left hand end of a cave. Come out of the cave-rooflet and pass horizontals to a crux that's tough if you're a shorty. Sustained to the chains.

A popular slabby route. The name comes from the nature of the movements, stretching hands and feet as a lizard. It can be climbed either direct to the top at 6b+ (recommended) or by darting rock to the crack at about 2/3 height.

The first pitch (25m) is a good warm up in its own right and is popular. First pitch has a baby crux. Variety of holds to the anchor. The second pitch (25m) follow a crack to a ledge and is a bit sustained.

1. 14 FB

2. 9FB

some moves up and then climbing on the corner to the anchor . Really good holds and steep .

on the right corner of the rock , a slab with good holds but a bit far from each other shows itself

Named for a local girl who died canyoning. The left hand of three routes that ascend the best part of the canyon, about 100m in and up on a raised platform. Wanders out left before cool moves through scoop and back right to DBB and chain.

1. 14 FB

2. 12 FB

3. 6 FB

4. 17 FB

Crag classic - Starts in the chimney onto an overhang. Technical climb the dihedral to a small rest. Move slightly to the right and climb up to the anchor.

Crag classic. A crack that could be climbed trad. Technical feet moves to the crescent looking crack. A strong bloudery move, layback to the top of the first pitch. The first pitch is popular at 7a/11b. Bolted crack that finishes with an 8m sharp layback crack that climbs beautifully.

nice pump movement on the right side of the cliff .

Translates as "crimpy" or "nail" depending on who you ask. The centre route of the tryptic that start from the raised platform goes directly up the guts of the wall, sustained quality, crimpy climbing on good rock. DBB and chain.

A nice and amazing roof of 13 meters with nice movements .

Gentle climb without a crux, perfect for those comfortable on their feet. Slight overhang on the rooflet that can be mantled up. Pocket holds to the top. A lovely climb that is not to be missed.

A bouldery start on the overhang, onto small balancy stem-ing footholds. Traverse the roof crack to the cruxy move on the second roof. Adventurous hidden moves behind the rock and up to the anchor.

Bit tricky the first two or three draws. From onto the shelf and up top a pretty easy climb

The longest multipitch route on the wall.

1. 12 FB

2. 10 FB

3. 17 FB

4. 15 FB

The right hand route of the tryptic that start from the raised platform is the best warm up at the crag. Easy moves to start lead to the crux coming at the top. DBB but watch the loose block on the last move under the chains.

"Waterfall" starts 10m up the canyon from Shir Shah unde the obvious left-facing corner. A very cool sequence lead to the tufa and past it (crux) before gaining the crack (which you unfortunately don't need to use given the waterwashed blobs that give the route its name).

The other friend of the setters -Abbas- a local legend, tends to spend his time sleeping at the crag. Double crux goodness at the start and end of the route. Technical moves on the vertical wall on small crimps and credit card footholds. Balancy.

Chain Anchor

1. 10 FB - shared with Baharane

2. 15 FB

3. 12 FB

Nice easy multi-pitch up the face. Great rest half way up. Cruxy move on a good crimper and then easy climb to the first anchor. Not sure where the second anchor is.

(1) Feels likd 5.10b if you go to the left (via the crack) and right (skip the buldge) with the crux right before the first bolt. Cruisy climb to the anchor all the way. For a spicier climb, follow the bolted line exactly and be rewarded with a 5.11a climb. 9 FB

(2) 5.10b Straight up from the anchor to the first bolt then lean to the right slightly and power up to the old rusty anchor. The pitons to the far right are not safe and belong to an old route. Bolts are spaced 2-3m apart but holds aplenty. 8 FB +1 Piton

(3) 5.10d/11a Spaced-out bolts leads to enjoyable spicey climb. You do not want to fall off before the 2nd bolt as the ledge is awfully close. Belayer needs to be extra watchful. You also most certainly don't want to fall past the 6th bolt. It's a spicy 6m+ gap to the anchor on positively angled wall. Goodbye ankles and knees. Someone do everyone a favour and (a) whack another bolt between the 6th and the anchor (b) move the anchor up 6m to the next ledge. 6 FB

(4) One bolt leads to a jungle of pitons and what have you, skip them all but one and just whack your quick draw on the next bolt. Cruisy climb leads to anchor at the top. Choss fest with rock falls all around. 5.9

Easy slab climbing. Be mindful of the tree roots to the right of the anchor.

Start from the inside of the left opening of the larger cave, continue on to leave the cave on two finger pockets and small positive crimps and climb straight up kneebaring and pinching between the two tufas to the top. Bouldery finish.

The left variation of Iran Merinus, named in the honour of setters' good friend Faramarz who's apparently a bit of a handful 60 something year old dude. Smear away to a powerful bouldery move to the overhang.

Some i*iot has bolted this! Do it Trad as it's safer and more fun! Start from the small crack up to the rooflet, continue on along the crack. Grab a set of small cams (up to red cam)

1. 15 FB

2. 13 FB

3. 10 FB

4. 17 FB

Take a long rope with you

1. 8 FB. Climb on small crimps with two small cracks at the start and near the top. Easy for tall folks, not so easy for the vertically challenged. Good footwork and technique saves the day.

2. 7 FB. Move slightly to the right. Face climb to a small rooflet with solid holds. Tricky traverse with pumpy moves.

3. 9 FB. Face climb. Balancy on good friction holds.

Instead of going up the crack on the 2nd rooflet, go for the bouldery moves on the face.

You see the route name on the wall. About 17 routes left of Iranian Swiss.

Start steming on slabs, sustained moves to the top.

Nice slab with small holds and some holes . Really amazing

An amazing slab with lots of heels movement on it . Small ledges ends to the chain in the anchor

The slippery limestone roof crack line at the end of the bigger cave, starting from the right and going to left, ending at the centre of the roof. Requires plenty of hand and foot jamming to send. There is no kidding around on this route. It needs plenty of technique and endurance as you are hanging off the roof for 20m. Bonus points if you find the kneebar giving you upside down handsfree rest. End with a bouldery problem at the anchor. The route has seen several attempts by European climbers. Could potentially be done trad.

1. 6 FB

2. 3 FB

3. 21 FB

4. 15 FB

Nice and amazing crack

Easy climb with no real crux. Easy finish to the right, or power up to the left for a more spicey finish.

Once the track meets the cave there are two warm up routs on new bolts (and several on old bolts) 10m to the left. This is the most left of the two. Easy climbing to awkward crux over bulge (more easy to step left and come back into the line).

Balancy face climb.

Strong moves between holes on the wall and a small traverse to left and the anchor .

A bouldery start to easier climb. Technical moves near the top for a glorious finish on good quality rock

Nice line, straight up. Easier on the left of the draws.

Start of the end of Sisakht.

1. 7 FB - easy climb

2. 11 FB - variety of holds. Walk around the big rock and to your right to belay off to the middle of the wall and then to the ground. Requires double ropes for rapelling.

Nice slab with many holes on it . The route is easy mostly except the last move on the slab before traverse to the anchor

Same start as the Khers. Technical moves on the arete.

First route at the very right hand lip of the cave.

STRONGLY recommended to (you MUST. Bolts will be removed soon) stop at the 4th bolt (as drawn in the route diagram) as a bird has nested in the rock hole past this bolt. Powerful traverse on overhanging section. Be VERY mindful of the other bird nest to the far right of the second and below the third bolt.

Where else will you get an opportunity to practice, crimps, pockets, sloppers, toe-heel lock, overhead undercling, and a knee bar, all in one climb?

Enter the smaller cave and turn around facing the outside. The route starts on your right and traverses the roof to left, ending at the centre of the cave. Cruxy start, sustained at the beginning but eases towards the end. Crag classic.

Around the corner as the walking track continues towards the summit the wall eases off. This line tackles the proudest line 5m right of the arete. Great climbing on good rock.

nice beautiful slab goes up and then traverse below a small overhang to right and to the anchor

2nd route inside the cave. Start 1m left of Khoffash. Gorgeous route, overhang all the way on beautiful pockets. Find the knee bar and make your send an easy one (if you're tall). Shorter senders may benefit from a right hand variant to the final bolt. No anchor makes it an absolute b*&$h to clean! Be nice and bring a bailout biner...

on the right corner of the second cave , it moves up on the ledge with some amazing movements and then traverse to left .

10m up the Canyon from the route "25m" is a multipitch route that starts from the ground about 5m back from small cave. The first pitch is a doddle with one reachy crux move. The second climbs a worthwhile feature.

A gorgeous crack on good quality rock. 10m up and then start traversing right along the rooflet. A small overhang crux to the anchor points. Could be climbed trad.

You see the route name at the wall. Climbing up to the roof and than traverse to the right.

A tough slab with small holds start with some hard movement

Route is just to the left of the crack.

Moves directly toward the roof of the second cave to come out and join the manoto route .

Starts of Shirin but traverse lower than Shirin and end up on Shirin's anchor.

starts with a small overhang and then continuing with some strong moves .

1. 11 FB

2. 15 FB

3. 13 FB

4. 15 FB

Start from the ground and goes directly up to the overhang just continue to the right of overhang . Small holes and tough slab

On the north face of White mountain , a nice slab with some small tricky moves .

Route follows the the crack. There is also a higher graded route alternative left of the crack going straight up.

Start with a small overhang and continues on the edge of the rock

Common with Khesht on last part but it passes directly through the overhang .

a wide crack that the climbers follow it from left side on the slab and sometimes using the crack . The route was opened for memorial of "Amin " which was one of the canyoners of Iran which died in 2017