Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Butterfly Valley | |||||
6a | Intrigues
Shares the start with Dublin Mudslide and splits off left after a ledge halfway up. Also may be dirty after rainy season. FA: David Weintraub | 28m, 13 | |||
6a | ★ Dublin Mudslide
Start on the furthest left bolted line in Upper Mantle and head straight up. FA: Sander DiAngelis | 25m, 12 | |||
6b | ★★ The Grass Is Always Greener
Pumpy start, then a nice rest before a technical face. FA: Erik Ferjentsik | 23m, 13 | |||
7c | ★★ Year of the Tiger
Crimpy! FA: Reagan Chung, 2010 | 26m, 12 | |||
7b | ★★★ Thanks For The Memories
Start just left of the large tufa and go way up a ledgey face until a tough overhanging crack. FA: Glenn Ferguson, 2009 | 31m, 15 | |||
7b | ★★ Pole Dancer
Clip the first bolt from the rock, then start at the bottom to fully enjoy the beautiful tufa. Followed by some awkward slab and into an amazing set of hard moves to the anchor. | 22m, 9 | |||
7a+ | ★★ My Way
Consider a stickclip for the first bolt not to fall into the cave below! FA: Lee Cujes & and Team Australia, 2009 | 18m, 9 | |||
8a | ★★★ ...Or the Railway
The 10m extension to My Way up two overhung fingercracks. FA: Lee Cujes & and Team Australia, 2009 | 28m, 13 | |||
6c | ★ Rocky's ways
Balancy and techncal first half where passing the crux can be confusing Set: Faucher Antoine, 6 Jan 2019 FA: Faucher Antoine, 8 Jan 2019 | 15m, 10 | |||
7b | Unknown
Goes up from the middle of the wall, little to the right of the tree. | 25m | |||
5b | ★★ Approach to Trad
A short warm up climb on the left hand side of the boulder of mr moustache massage man. Be careful of a few potentail loose blocks on the wall. Set: raffaele bastine, Mar 2019 FA: raffaele bastine, Mar 2019 | 8m, 5 | |||
6a+ | ★ Moustache Massage Man
Crimpy start into a ledgey climb. FFA: Vu Nguyen FA: Maureen Adridge, 2010 | 8m, 7 | |||
7b | ★★ Cung-Duoc-Day
Extension of Moustache Massage Man | 25m, 16 | |||
5c | ★ Vu Duyen
Nice warmup. FA: Onslo Carrington, 2010 | 8m, 7 | |||
6c+ | ★ Fingerless Pho Man
Fairly easy climbing until the overhang. Follow the obvious crack to the anchor. Can be a bit dirty after rainy season. FA: Reagan Chung, 2010 | 20m, 10 | |||
7b | ★ Chia Tay
Shares the start and anchors with Fingerless Pho Man and branches off right onto the face before the overhung crack. FA: Reagan Chung, 2010 | 20m, 12 | |||
6c+ | ★★ Brooklyn Buddah
Relatively easy climbing until a leaning dihedral crack with a crux near the end. May be easier for taller climbers. FA: Onslo Carrington, 2011 | 18m, 10 | |||
7c+ | ★★★ Dream Weaver
Clip the first bolt from the boulder above to avoid a fall into the cave below. Start in the cave on two knobby white tufas. FA: Chris Lindner, 2008 | 22m, 13 | |||
5a | ★ Chuyen Nui
Nice warmup. Shares the start with 5 Fun, then branches left towards the cave. FA: Erik Ferjentsik, 2008 | 20m, 10 | |||
5a | ★ 5 Fun
Nice warmup. Shares the start with Chuyen Nui and then branches right onto the slab. FA: Erik Ferjentsik, 2007 | 22m, 10 | |||
4+ | Potato launcher
| 30m, 9 | |||
5a | 4 Play
The low angled route ~10m left of large tree Set: Vu Nguyen FA: Jen Gosley, Mar 2016 | 30m, 11 | |||
5c | ★★ Reggae Rocks
A fun climb up nice holds. Can be extended another 6m and 3 bolts to a higher anchor. Consider back-cleaning the first few bolts to avoid some gnarly rope drag! FA: Erik Ferjentsik, 2007 | 27m, 2, 13 | |||
6a | ★ Spread the jam
| 22m | |||
3 | ★ Baby steps
| 2m, 3 | |||
5c | ★ Bread and Butter
9 bolts, 1 sling. Consider backing up the sling, or extending some of the last bolts to avoid rope drag. Some tricky moves getting through the dihedral at the start, but fun climbing afterwards! FA: Erik Ferjentsik, 2008 | 23m, 10 | |||
6c+ | ★★ Brian's"Closed" Project
Bouldery start, relatively calm middle section, and overhang just before the anchor to make it more fun! FA: Brian Jones, 2011 | 22m, 13 | |||
7b | ★★ Cleapatras curse
Climb a steep start with some powerful moves for 7 bolts and then split right after mantling the tufa to finish on very tot. Make sure to clip the rope as well as the 3rd bolt Set: Andrew, Apr 2019 FA: guillaume fattebert, 19 Apr 2019 | 21m, 10 | |||
6b+ | ★★ Very Tot
Tricky overhang start leads to awesome climbing and a huge tufa. FA: Stephen Le, 2007 | 21m, 11 | |||
6c+ | ★★★ Miyagi Box Maker
Bouldery start, consider stick-clipping the first bolt. A couple cruxes. FA: Erik Ferjentsik, 2007 | 20m, 12 | |||
6b | ★★ You Enjoy Myself
Crux is getting out of the dihedral and over the lip. FA: Erik Ferjentsik, 2007 | 20m, 11 | |||
7b | ★★★ Prayer Of The Mantis
Consider stick-clipping the first bolt. Following the bolt line is the direct route, though many take an alternate start a bit to the left and closer to You Enjoy Myself. Stay on the arete and avoid coming out right onto the face for the true line! FA: Erik Ferjentsik, 2007 | 20m, 11 | |||
6c+ | ★ A Dengue Ate My Davey
Traverse the face on pockets to a slopey ledge. The direct line goes straight up the roof, though some feel this is contrived and opt to traverse left up the ledge and direct to the anchors. FA: Dave Nassi, 2007 | 19m, 10 | |||
7b+ | ★★ Hippie Banana Tree Killer
Crazy overhang with bouldery moves. FA: Erik Ferjentsik, 2007 | 25m, 13 | |||
7b+ | ★ Passive Aggressive
Big overhang on large pockets and then pumpy face climbing. FA: Erik Ferjentsik, 2007 | 21m, 11 | |||
7b | ★★★ If Only I Could Be A Shrimp
Powerful roof climbing into a tricky face. FA: Erik Ferjentsik, 2008 | 25m, 13 | |||
6c | ★★ Cracker Jack
Pumpy jug climbing with a few good rests and a few cruxes. FA: Erik Ferjentsik, 2007 | 21m, 12 | |||
7a+ | ★★★ Team Ling Ling
Shares the start with Pappi's Paradise and branches up and left at the second (smaller) roof. FA: Erik Ferjentsik, 2007 | 28m, 14 | |||
7a | ★★ Pappi's Paradise
Shares the start with Team Ling Ling, and branches right at the second (smaller) roof. Enjoy the subsequent sloepy tufa face climb! FA: Chris Clohessey, 2008 | 28m, 14 | |||
7c | ★★★ Little Dragon
Start shared with Enter the Dragon but heads straight up the giant mushroom-tufa after exiting the cave. Tie a knot in the end of your rope! FFA: Vu Nguyen, 2012 FA: Onslo Carrington, 2012 | 35m, 15 | |||
8a+ | ★★★ Enter The Dragon
Shares the start with Little Dragon in the dragon's mouth cave. Exit the cave and head up and right onto its teeth and face. Professional belay recommended. Tie a know in the end of your rope. FFA: Erik Ferjentsik FA: Marcus, 2009 | 35m, 14 | |||
7c+ | ★★ Horseless Samurai
Overhangs and tufas and cracks. Have fun! FA: Onslo Carrington FFA: Audrey Sniezek (onsight!), 2010 | 27m, 15 | |||
7a | ★★ Obama 101
Cracks and tufas. Crux at third bolt. Careful belay recommended. FA: Onslo Carrington, 2009 | 20m, 12 | |||
7a+ | ★★★ Buffalo Love
Dihedral crack to roof to slab. Bit of everything! Watch out for the boulder at the start (spot, crashpad, or start on top of it) or consider princess clipping the first bolt! Back-clean afterwards to avoid rope drag and help out your belayer. FA: Onslo Carrington FFA: Peter Mortimer, 2009 | 26m, 15 | |||
7a | ★★ Up Syndrome
Crimpy tufas to a nice rest, then tackle the slopey ledge for the crux. FA: Erik Ferjentsik, 2008 | 20m, 13 | |||
6a | ★ Where the Wild Things Aren't
Fun tufa climbing. Can be dirty near the top. FA: Erik Ferjentsik, 2008 | 24m, 12 | |||
6c | ★★ 50/50
Sketchy moves going past the first two bolts with a crux just below the anchor. FA: Onslo Carrington, 2009 | 20m, 10 | |||
6b+ | ★★★ Elephant Man
Classic! Enjoy pockets and cracks all along the face. FA: Erik Ferjentsik, 2008 | 20m, 10 | |||
6a+ | ★★★ Unobbtainable HR | 12m, 5 | |||
8a+ | Roman's Karmic Curse
Small holds requiring enduring power. FA: Steve Bradshaw, 2011 FFA: Steve Bradshaw, 2011 | 17m, 10 | |||
6c+ | ★★ Bolts 'R' us
Gentle overhang on nice holds leads to a powerful crux. Most opt for a dynamic approach, but an absurd drop knee allows for a static movement. FA: Matt Raue & Jo Bulmer, 2010 | 16m, 8 | |||
7c+ | ★★★ Monarch
Begins with an easy crack then changes dramatically into a sustained crux to the anchors. FA: Lee Cujes, 2010 | 25m, 13 | |||
6c+ | ★★ Hunting Double Rainbows
Beautiful tufas and pockets then a techy dihedral before the anchor. FA: Onslo Carrington, 2011 | 20m, 12 | |||
6b | ★★ The Feeling of Freedom
Big tufas to a tricky finish. Tends to be dirty and is not frequently repeated as a result. FA: Sinan Turb, 2012 | 19m, 10 | |||
7b | ★★ Freakonomics
Diverse climbing with several cruxes and overhangs. FA: Erik Ferjentsik, 2007 | 27m, 13 | |||
7b | ★★ Muhammad Ali
Pockets to slab to overhang with some nice rests. Top is technical and makes the grade and necessitates a careful belay. FA: Lee Cujes & Samantha Cujes, 2010 | 22m, 12 | |||
6a | ★★ Rome to Hanoi express
Lots of pockets and cracks to some ledges which can be tricky! FA: Nicola Gatti, 2008 | 19m, 9 | |||
6b | ★ Argentina's Delight
Easy arête climbing (shared start with Flight of the Bumblebee and Mother butterfly) leads to a crack on the left. May be extended into Place Your Nuts Right for another 12m, but requires an 80m rope or two rappels. FA: Javier Guillani & Erik Ferjentsik, 2007 | 29m, 13 | |||
6c | ★★ Place Your Nuts Right
A 12m extension atop Argentina's Delight. Can be a little sharp and dirty near the top, and somewhat heady on lead! Great exposure and view of the surrounding valley. FA: Sinan Turb & Onslo Carrington, 2012 | 12m, 7 | |||
7c | ★★ Flight of the Bumble Bee
Shared start with Argentina's Delight and Mother Butterfly. Easy climbing at 6b/6c leads to the cruxy 2-3m before the anchors. Hope you like slopey pinches! Some argue these last moves are 7c. FA: Erik Ferjentsik, 2007 | 28m, 13 | |||
6a+ | ★★ Mother Butterfly
Shared start with Argentina's Delight and Flight of the Bumblebee. Branch right at the first opportunity and continue up the beautiful face. Don't forget to take a look out from the top! FA: Erik Ferjentsik, 2007 | 29m, 13 | |||
7c+ | Just ants
A 6b roof on pockets leads to a nice rest before a blank face. Attempt the minuscule crimps to the anchors. Set: Vu Nguyen | 8m, 7 | |||
7a | ★ Falling Choss In Between
A bouldery start on some chossy holds, coming out to some tufa climbing followed by a great balancy vertical climb. The start and top need some more cleaning, but overall, solid. Belayer should wear a helmet. Set: Jai Critchley, 2019 FA: Miha Popovic, Jan 2020 | 28m, 13 | |||
7a | ★★ Windchime of the Ants
Diverse climbing through resonant tufas onto stalactites and a nice face. May be dirty and/or flooded during/after the wet season. FA: Erik Ferjentsik, 2007 | 28m, 13 | |||
Vu's Project #2
No anchor yet. Attempts the overhung face just left of Butterfly Effect. Set: Vu Nguyen | 23m, 11 | ||||
8a | ★★★ Butterfly Effect
Short but powerful through and overhang. FA: Reagan Chung, 2010 | 12m, 10 | |||
6c | ★★ Searcing for Meaning
Shared start with Love for Breakfast. Branch left onto the white streaked face after a sharp ledge halfway up. Flooded during rainy season. FA: Onslo Carrington, 2012 | 20m | |||
6c | ★★ Love for Breakfast
Shared start with Searching for Meaning. Stay right after the sharp ledge and onto the white rock. Flooded during rainy season. FA: Matthew McGeever & Onslo Carrington, 2012 | 25m | |||
7a | ★ Dirty Dutch Delights | 15m, 10 | |||
The Cave | |||||
6a | ★★ Slingswing
FA was only on slings. Juggy fun! New glue anchors for safe cleaning (18/11/16). Updated to glue in bolts throughout except for one sling for the third quickdraw (1/3/24). FA: Luca De Giorgi, 2015 | 18m, 7 | |||
6b+ | ★★ Breakout
Spotting recommended for the technical start on the right side of the large white tufa at cave's left. FA: 2015 | 18m, 9 | |||
6a+ | ★★ Over the Moon
start up the arch next to breakout. Technical 2nd to third clip hits the grade 6a+ if you find the proper sequence. Leads to fun slabby climbing up top. rams horn anchor for easy lowering and cleaning. FA: Michael Larin FA: Michael Larin | 23m, 9 | |||
5b | ★ Where the Wild Things Were
Nice warmup. 6 bolts, 1 sling. FA: Vu Nguyen, 2015 | 18m, 7 | |||
7a+ | ★★★ Fistful of Stalactite
Awesome limestone tufa climbing after a pocketed face. Good fun. FA: Brian Sexauer, 2014 | 17m, 9 | |||
6c | ★★ Don't Bite The Hand That Feeds You
Named for its toothy mouth like pocket. Nice climb with strong moves on good holds Expansion bolts set by Asia Outdoors, glue bolts set by Cat Ba Climbing. (First joint project) FA: Jeremy Johns, 17 Nov 2016 | 17m, 7 | |||
7a | ★★ Chó cái for life
Gently overhung face climbing leads to a tricky sequence. Commit to the tufa and the rest is easy. Stay only on the face for a 7b/7c variation. FA: Ross Lesslie, 2015 | 17m, 8 | |||
6a+ | ★★ Love Handles
Can be reachy. FA: Chris Johnson, 2015 | 15m, 6 | |||
6b | ★ Sheltered Nook
Easy face climbing wraps around to the outside of the cave. Some tiny crimps directly up to the anchor make it tough, though most stay a bit to the right in a layback crack. FA: Vu Nguyen, 2015 | 22m, 10 | |||
Hidden Valley / The Farm | |||||
7a | ★★ Test Pilot
Follow the crack on the right bringing you to the crux at 2-3 bolt: dyno to good pocket. Kneebar size cave afterwards. Stay on overhanging wavy slab. Easy middle section up and under the tree. Slight left under the roof with nice moves to the anchor on the left. Set: Cat Ba Climbing | 22m, 12 | |||
6a | ★★ Dark Dihedral
Follow the jaggered crack over the small roof to the anchors, consistant throught out, crux at the end. Last 2 bolts and anchors shared with “The Itagnol Job” | 11m, 8 | |||
6a | The Itagnol Job
Follow the bolts on the featured face, some nice techniqual moves moving left to share the last two bolts and anchors of “Dark Dihedral”. | 11m, 7 | |||
6b | ★★ Srew You
Named for it's mono signature crux move using the middle finger. Great range of different styles in this climb. Set: Cat Ba Climbing FA: Jonny Willis | 20m, 11 | |||
6c | ★★★ House of Jugs
Climb a steep wall with loads of jugs and knee bars to choose from, then an out stretched powerful move to come out of the roof with a tricky finish. Set: Cat Ba Climbing FA: Ryan Moore | 17m, 8 | |||
7b+ | ★★★ Shampoo Effect
Slab climbing to the roof, then follow the crack/flake before moving right. Get's harder and harder with each bolt. | 17m, 8 | |||
7b | ★★ Power & Good Vibes
Easy first two bolts to an over hung and technical climb with good holds. (6 glue bolts + anchors) No need to use the expansion bolt & Hanger (3rd bolt), it was installed for bolting purposes and has been left for cleaning the route and to lower and avoid potential dangerous swing. Set: Carlos Sanz, 16 Sep 2016 | 13m, 8 | |||
4+ | ★ No Worries
A short beginner piece of art. Perfect for teaching lead climbing. Shared anchor with No Problem. | 7m, 5 | |||
4+ | ★ No Problem
Easy and short beginner route. Perfect for instructors to teach (lead) climbing. Mind your head when you reach for the anchor, wearing a helmet is advised. All bolts are glue-in bolts. | 7m, 5 | |||
4+ | ★ First Time Get It
Easy and short beginner route. All bolts are glue-in bolts. | 7m, 4 | |||
5b | ★★ Lost In The Jungle
1
5b
2
4
Multi-pitch to the highest roof. First pitch has crux between first and second bolt (5b), then it is easy climbing (4) to comfortable anchors. First pitch has 8 bolts and one sling. Then two different climbs, Tarzan (left) and Jane (right) to the high roof. Use the anchor on the left for rappelling down, not the belay anchor. Ground anchor available for belayer. All bolts are glue-in bolts. | 30m, 10 | |||
5a | ★★ Monkey Magic
Left most climb of the multipitch, a short climb moving left finishing on 2 U-bolts right of the stalactite. | 7m, 5 | |||
5b | ★★ Tarzan
After climbing Lost In The Jungle, this is one of the secondary pitches starting on the left side. Tarzan is slightly more strenuous than Jane, but with good holds the more easy option. Use the most comfortable anchor with chain for belaying, rappel using the separate rappelling anchor on the far left. All bolts are glue-in bolts. | 7m, 6 | |||
5c | ★★ Jane
After climbing Lost In The Jungle, this is one of the secondary pitches starting on the right side. Jane is slightly more technical than Tarzan, and usually a more challenging option. Use the undercling, move your feet up and reach for the good holds. Use the anchor with chain on the right for belaying, rappel using the separate rappelling anchor on the far left. All bolts are glue-in bolts. | 7m, 6 | |||
6c+ | ★★ Which Way To The Beach
Easy climbing to a tricky crux to pass the small roof. Then fun bridging between the two big stalactites. Be aware of the stalagmite behind the belayer: the climber can hit it if the belayer gives too much slack at the crux on the small roof. Set: Cat Ba Climbing | 15m, 9 | |||
6c | ★ Cliffside Promise
Named after the first wedding in crag! Start just right of the boulder cave, good holds to a technical crux, a little chossy before cool moves between the huge stalactites. Anchors high in the cave. 5-bolts 3-slings Set: Jay To, Tim Osborne & Cat Ba Climbing FA: Tim Osborne, 17 Nov 2016 | 15m, 8 | |||
7b | ★★ Next Time Get It
A hard move only a few meters up with good climbing to an intimidating overhang. Strenuous moves leftwards and out of the cave. | 26m, 14 | |||
6a+ | ★★ Ich Will In Dich Sein
A nice climb with underclings and pockets. Panoramic view in the upper section during the no-hands rest on the tufa on the right. | 18m, 10 | |||
6b | ★★ Bozo's Big Day
Nice climb with loads of holes and pockets bringing you closer to the crux: clipping the anchor. | 21m, 10 | |||
6b | ★★ Thank You Sir
Climb a layback flake to find the crux halfway through. | 21m, 10 | |||
5b | ★ Ants In My Pants
Good warm up. Short but fun and many good holds. Anchor with permanent lower-off carabiners. | 10m, 5 | |||
5b | ★ L'errore umano
Same anchor as JailBail Follow the small white crack, from the beginning of the route until the small transverse towards the anchor. Set: raffaele, Raffaele Leuzzi, Federico Valentini & mr Zoom, 11 Dec 2016 FA: Raffaele Leuzzi, 11 Dec 2016 | 10m, 5 |