Routes as sport in Franklin Gorge

First sport route to be established at Franklin. 6 bolts, ring anchors.

This route links the first 3 bolts on "Route of All Evil", to the last bolt on "Limestoned". 6 bolts, plus ring anchors. A grade of 5.10- is more accurate.

7 bolts, shuts. 5.9 if you use flex flake, and bypass the upper arete & 7th bolt.

4 bolts, shuts.

To the right of Lunar Debris. 5 bolts, ring anchors.

6 bolts, ring anchors. High quality, and very sustained.

7 bolts, finishing at a set of chains. This is the rightmost route at the Parking Area Wall. Look for the graffiti. 1st bolt & hanger were recently replaced.

A testy, two bolt route, with FIXE Super Shuts at top.

To the right of Raised by Sasquatch. 6 bolts, finishing at a set of chains. Don't miss the 4th bolt, although it is somewhat hidden, it is directly above the 3rd. A decent moderate route.

5 bolts, then traverse right to the anchors of Potential Energy.

On the steep arete, passing 5 bolts, and finishing at a set of ring anchors. An excellent route. Some parties prefer to clip the 1st bolt on "Barney Rubble", to provide added safety reaching the 1st bolt.

This route is located in between Potential Energy and Dynosaurus.

Another excellent contribution by D. Hensley, bolted on lead.

Summer 2009: bolt hangers & top anchors replaced.

8 bolts, finishing at a set of ring anchors. This route is described by many as an atypical Franklin route, offering a little something different in terms of holds. A very fine route, with cryptic & committing movements.

6 bolts, finishing at a set of anchor chains w/ carabiners. Begin by scrambling onto the ledge above the trail, the 1st bolt can be reached from there.

From the trail, scramble up to a book. Climb the book, passing two bolts, and clipping a third at the lip of the roof above. Pull the roof on good holds, and continue up the head wall passing two more bolts, finishing at a set of welded cold shuts. Another great route, and one of the driest at the crag.

7 bolts, cold shut anchors. Climb the face past two bolts, to reach a very large ledge system. Walk left across the ledge, passing a good bit of loose rock, to reach a bolt at the lip of an overhang. Excellent 5.9ish climbing passes 4 more bolts and ends at a set of cold shuts.

Route decommissioned in March 2008, due to safety concerns (2nd bolt was falling out, others were "shimmed" with glue).

3 bolts, with a pair of rings at the top.

9 bolts, finishing at a set of chains.

5 bolts, finishing at a set of ring anchors. An obscure route, situated on a ledge system above the trail.

Bolts were removed on September 6th 2008, as requested by the first ascent party. This route is named "No Stoppin' The Burn".

One of Franklin's best, but well "hidden" routes. 4 bolts, cold shut anchors at top.

A little run-out, til you get to the lip.

6 bolts, fishing at a set of ring anchors. UPDATE: New top anchor bolts were installed, Spring 2009

4 bolts, cold shut anchors. First bolt is very high up, on moderate terrain, but well out of stick-clip range...use your head.

4 bolts, finishing at a set of welded cold shuts.

4 bolts, plus ring anchors (recently added).

3 bolts, now has ring anchors. A testy little route.

It has been reported that, as of August 2010,the top anchors are missing on this route

4 bolts, plus ring anchors. A complete top anchor replacement, including bolts, was done on this route on May 3rd 2008. UPDATE: Bolts #3 & 4 were replaced, Spring 2009.

5.11c, this is a left finish variation of Decompression Sickness, pulling through the big roof at the end. 9 bolts, chains at top. A very solid route, another testament to the strength of Mr. Begoon. A strong and rather tall young climber from NC once called this one of the "meatiest" routes at Franklin.

7 bolts + ring anchors. Begin just left of "Barnacle Bill", the run to bolt #2 is definitely a "No Fall Zone". Climb past bolts, tending left after the shake-out, then up to a small roof. Pull the roof and continue up to anchors.

Start on Barnacle Bill, clipping the first 3 bolts, then go left to a good rest, and then through overhang. An excellent route.

9 bolts, ring anchors. All remaining cold shuts were replaced with standard hangers in 2008.

Starts on ledge, to the right of Barnacle Bill. 4 bolts, ring anchors at top.

Situated on the large but exposed ledge, climb the multi-teired overhangs, to a bolt in the last tier. Continue over the lip, and finish at a set of ring anchors. A nice, gymnastic route.

To the right of Super Amazing Sea Monkeys, 4 bolts, uses anchors of Belly of The Whale.

Through the key hole, last bolted climb on the ledge section. Has been re-bolted and now has one additional bolt from what most guidebooks say.

All hangers removed in March 2008, due to safety concerns (aging & corroded bolts).

Said to have been the original benchmark for 5.10a at Franklin. Left start is the original line (7 bolts, ring anchors). A right start (3 bolts) was added later.

5.9, 7 bolts + ring anchors. Very high quality.

4 bolts, ring anchors.

8 bolts, ring anchors at top. Note: A #1 Camalot was used after the last bolt during the first ascent. An excellent route, which many climbers feel is very stiff for a 5.9, probably a 5.10-.

3 bolts, plus ring anchors.

8 bolts, cold shuts. To the right and just uphill from "Jumpstart". Climbing is very steep & sustained, passing five bolts to reach a chain dangling from above the lip of a sizable roof. Climb past the chain, clipping another bolt under the last roof. Powerful & delicate movement gains the final lip, and one more bolt. Pull the lip and continue to a set of welded cold shuts.

3 bolts, ring anchors at top. Very committing to the first bolt, with bit of a run-out to the anchors as well. Good quality movement, and very solid for a 5.10a.

4 bolts, rings at top. Steep, top quality.

3 bolts. 2 sets of anchors exist...the FFA was to the right anchors.

3 bolts, & ring anchors.

Traverse right to big roof, then straight out. 4 bolts, plus anchors.

5 bolts, ring anchors. A classic route.

A variation, diverging to the right, with a separate anchor.

5 bolts, ring anchors.

8 bolts, anchors at top.

4 bolts, plus anchors.

6 bolts, plus anchors.

It is believed that The Ivory Tower routes were established by George Powell & John Burcham.

It is believed that The Ivory Tower routes were established by George Powell & John Burcham.