Routes as trad in Wintour's Leap

Climb the rib and borehole strike to a single bolt, from where moves on the left gain a long run-out to a lower-off.

Crank powerfully into the blank corner. Follow this up and through the two roofs above, generally with pitons for protection. Abseil lower-off at top.

Follow the large yellow wall. Start just right of a bolt. A hard move protects the better climbing above. Crank straight through the top roof after clipping pitons for protection

Start almost as for Yesterday's Dreams but try to stay to the right to the break. Traverse right onto a foot ledge then make a tricky and bold couple of moves up and then left to a big jug and bolt. Climb the groove, then pull left under a triangular roof. Climb up and right onto the arete which is followed past a stretch left to clip "Yesterday's " bolt and an in-situ thread to the bolt belay on Yesterday's Dreams

5b,4b,4b,5b.

6a,5c.

5a,4c. Loose and vegetated.

Recently been cleaned - nice interesting climb. 5b,5b.

Two pitches both around 25m up to the Great Ledge. The original top pitch is no longer available due to access considerations.

The first pitch is a 4b due to a difficult (for the grade) overhang but well protected by a peg.

The second pitch is a 4a, but has a bold section above 2 pegs for around 6m that is only protected by micro-wires.

Tree belay, and abseil station to the right on the Great Ledge - a pair of 50m ropes just reach the ground.

4c,4c,5a.

A traditional expedition starting up Simplex, taking in The Tap and finishing up Bacchanalian. Described in the 1977 and 1987 guidebooks, it was subsequently split into the three routes comprising it and omitted in the 1997 and 2007 publications.

A reasonable way of reaching the Central Ledge - where the routes on the upper section of wall begin. Can be a bit grassy in the crack. Start 9m right of a plaque and just left of a tall tree growing next to the crag. Move up an open groove and then traverse right to below a crack. Climb the crack past a peg on the left to the Central Ledge.

A block has fallen off the middle of this climb (see 1997 guidebook photo).

RH of two bolt lines in the centre of the lower tier of North Wall. Needs a rock 1 or similar near the top.

The North Wall

Start from the right hand peg belay on the terrace. Climb a corner and step left onto a block at its top. Then climb a shallow groove, pull over the small roof at its top and go diagonally right and up over easier broken ground. Two pegs mark the belay of wrong tap. Climb wrong tap to the very poor crux peg, then foot traverse left until beneath the steep grey wall. Step up and clip the peg, then make thin moves (crux) up the wall to ledges. Climb up off the right hand ledge (no more gear) and climb up to the top.

Good moves on excellent rock, but both neighbours are compromised by it's proximity and pegs. Continue direct past the first peg runner and up the wall past three more. Minor variants in line and difficulty are possible.

Starts at the bottom of the prominent corner towards the left hand end of terrace - behind tree. 4a - Climb Corner to ledge, climb wall on good feet at R end of ledge to tree belay. 4b - Climb straight up over overhang and another 10' until holds run out. Diagonally left now to nose and up to twin bolt lower off

50ft 4c, 70ft 4c

5b,4c

Third pitch crux is good value for VS. Start at the right hand side of the cliff (north wall) and follow the obvious crack line in the corner over the small overhangs. Belay on the first decent tree. continue behind the belay, up a corner groove and over another small roof to a big tree belay again. Now go slightly left then back up right a few metres to near another tree and climb up from there to the base of the obvious slab with the overlap at the top. Moves up the slab past a finger ledge to the overlap are quite tricky and would be very bold but for the peg. Pull over and belay on the great terrace. The 4th pitch looks terrible, better to finish up right hand route (straight up through the obvious v-notch in the overhangs then up the easy chimney), or you can just reach the ground from the great ledge with an abseil on double 50m ropes.

Two contrasting pitches that combine to give a sustained and complex line up the walls left of the edge of the North Wall. Described here with the direct variation on pitch one. Start at a clear patch of rock 5m left of the corner of The Angel's Eye.

1. 5c, 25m. Move up left onto a ledge and peg. Climb the tricky wall above to another peg and transfer left to a groove and cracks in orange-stained rock. Move up to the overhang and pull over (peg) and up the short wall to a good ledge. Traverse left along the ledge to a belay below a block.

2. 5c, 32m. From the top of the block, go right and back left to the base of a flared rib. Follow the thin and technical rib, past a peg, to better holds. Move up and then head for a short crack on the right that leads to easier ground and The Great Ledge.

Direct through the overhangs on Big brother.

Well-travelled, with the second pitch being particularly good. Start about 10m up the slope right of the edge of the buttress at a corner that heads up through vegetation.

1. 4a, 21m. Follow the corner to a ledge and continue up the cleanest rock on a rib to the right to a ledge and tree belay.

2. 4c, 28m. Head up to a spike of rock (thread) in a small corner and then move carefully up and leftwards to a wall and thin crack (peg). Climb the wall above to a ledge (peg) and then on up to a small overhang (peg). Traverse right to a couple of corners that lead to the Great Ledge. Belay at the abseil station.

Start as for Joe's Route but near first peg runner trend right and climb the arete/corner with little protection until able to pull over large block on left and stand up (bomber cam in the back). Climb to good peg then continue to in-situ belay.

plenty of pro on first pitch, properly respected and looked after, the oak sapling will make an excellent runner. Second pitch is "balls out," no pro on solid 4c ledges that require bold mantling moves and therefore gets its well deserved HVS status. Once on the 2nd pitch there is no going back.

Location - Small Wall is reached by following the guide book description for Narcotic Corner & 'Suicide is Dangerous'. From the Beech tree in front of Suicide, descend 3 metres to the multi stemmed tree, then traverse left (facing out) until under Small Wall. 'One For Button' takes an independent line through the break in the overhang to the left of 'Under a Raging Moon' (see guidebook) Description - Start where the rock has been cleaned in the centre of the wall, then traverse slightly left and straight up through several horizontal breaks to the thread. Move up (good friend placement), before reaching for a good pocket. Pull through with a long reach to another small finger pocket directly above, then stretch out right (good friend) for a good hold(s). High step onto the upper wall for more good holds, protection and a rest. Climb the delightful technical wall above (peg) with a few difficult, thin moves and eventual slap to the ledge. (easier for those with a long reach). Abseil station now in place on the ledge. (A Second ascent awaits !! ) Additional info - Small Wall has been extensively cleaned, as has four of the existing routes in the guidebook. Three of these routes have also had their original threads replaced. 'Under a Raging Moon' (E2 5c) deserves a star. There is a second abseil station now in place for this route and the adjacent route 'Northerners Can't Climb' (E1 5b). 'Amoeba' (E1 5a) and 'Tiswas' (HS 4b) have been cleaned and compliment the other 3 routes.

The only sensible access to this route and others on Small Wall now are via the Guide books description to Narcotic corner and Suicide is dangerous. The climb and its neighbours have been extensively cleaned, in-situ threads have been replaced and an Abseil station installed on the ledge above instead of using the tree. From the Beech tree in front of Suicide, walk 3 metres down the bank to a multi stemmed tree, traverse left (facing out) round the tree until under Small Wall. Use the Guide book from here. A great little route and a gem of a little crag now it has been cleaned.

Follows the wide earthy corner to the right of 'Northerners can't climb', then up a steep wall with a tricky mantel to finish.

Small Wall - An existing route with original peg and new tat. Climbs the right face of Tiswas (HS 4b) to the upper break, then finishes up that route. The route compliments the other three E grade routes at the crag, now it has been cleaned.

The route is located on the 'Original Sector' of the Great Wall and is currently in the Lower Wye Valley guide book. The first pitch (5c) has now been extensively cleaned, the lower thread has been replaced and the pegs check out ok. The second pitch (5c) needed little cleaning. The route offers some very fine climbing, a little bold in places and certainly deserved to be recovered from the undergrowth.

A long ramble up to the left of the easy way down. Start is an obvious cleared patch. From here ramble your way up the cliff following the occasional peg and plenty of shrubs for threads.

A variation on John's Route on the second pitch.

Pitch 2 - 45m, from the second overhang trend rightwards (rather than going left) to some vegetated ledges. Follow the shorter hard wall to easier ground and some cool quartz holds. Continue on to an overgrown top out. Difficult to find a good belay, maybe a couple of rotten tree roots or the stone wall, or risk the traffic on the road?!

Just left of the bottom of The Easy Way Down is a heavily shaded wall. The wall left of the disjointed square-cut grooves has a bouldery start and easier but bold climbing above.

Start at the disjointed square-cut grooves. A good pitch with some committing moves to link the initial grooves.

The blunt borehole rib between Paul's Wall and Grey Wall. Independent climbing but runners are easily placed in adjacent routes. Add a grade for a blinkered solo

Start at the pocketed wall 3 metres left of the end of the 'Easy Way Down'. Climb direct to the ledge, then follow the crack and groove. Trend slightly right to finish at a tree belay.