Route as trad in Loyoroit

Description by L. Hodgkinson

Pitch 1 45m (15) Start at the centre of the buttress beneath a tree growing ~4m up the rock. Move easily up a broken wall to the tree and then trend left up runnels and shallow cracks to the large break under an overhanging boulder. Watch out for bees whilst traversing the ledge to the right, then thrutch up the flared chimney onto a large landing followed by a short scramble up a vegetated gulley to a large tree belay.

Pitch 2 50m (10) Move left out onto the edge of the ridge and take a direct, airy scramble up and over the knife-edge until it flattens out just before the summit. Take a seated or standing belay some point back from the ridge, unless your rope is longer than 50m in which case you might make it to the boulders. You can un-rope and scramble to the very top from here.

Descent is a 15-minute walk down along the foot of the west face of the buttress.