Routes as sport in The Malta Sector

The first of the new wave of sport routes completed here. Start at the far L end of the cave sector at the line of FHs. You might want to stick-clip the first bolt (and perhaps even the second bolt unless you have an alert belayer). Climb up to the first bolt (glue-in u-bolt) and then left approximately 1½- 2m to gain the awkward line up the overhanging prow. Up past another 5 bolts to a double bolt anchor/ lower off.

Starts as for Renaissance, but climb straight up from the first bolt. A burly start then a thin technical exit up the left wall of the upper corner (5 bolts in all) to gain the same anchors as Renaissance

Start as for Goldfish Beta, but move right after the second bolt of GFB to an independent line of bolts up the wall on the right side of the mini-arête. Climb up past these, then make some steep, tarzan-like moves leftward. From a stance immediately right of the Renaissance/GFB rap anchors, continue up via pockets and a steep, hanging, bottomless crack up superb white rock to gain the upper anchors.

Bouldery fun up some great stone. Up the bullet-hard, cream-orange coloured rock a few metres right of the left-hand trilogy of routes (Renaissance, Gold-fish Beta and ??) Stick click the 1st bolt and start in the crack to the R and boulder into the line.

Start as for Paint the Town Red (or Gold Fish Beta for the 26) and follow this to its 4th bolts, step L into Dark Matter. Follow Dark Matter to the buldge, then traverse R on the lip to the hanging corner past 2 more RBs.

The line starting a metre or so just right of Project 1 up the short crack and L to the anchors.

Start as for Closed project 2 but continue out the roof.

Start R of CP2. Tricky boulder off the ground to join MOA at the rest at the end of the traverse. Make a awkward move R into the large under clings and another boulder to get R and join Sandscript at its overlap. Up this to the anchors and on to the anchors of Superscript.

The fun gymnastic steep line in the middle of the cave. Boulder start to gain the overlap then up L to gain the left-leading hanging ramp. Some burly moves along this then continue up the steep line to gain the anchors.

The full monty and a ripper line. Up Minister of Affairs to the lower anchors then L to the boulder at the lip and up the featured seam crack to the top.

A fantastic link up with alot of pretty pumpy climbing. Start as for Talk Dirty to Me, climb this to the blocky hold at the end of the crux, before making a move L to a pocket on the traverse of Pawns or Kings. Traverse L reversing PoKs into Minister of Affairs. Climb this through the crux of the extension and to the lip, before traversing R across the lip to the anchors of Superscript.

Starts a few metres left of Sandscript. Follow the thin break L under the overlap to the corner. Boulder out this to make some burly boulder moves through the bulge to gain to join Sandscript at the last overlap then finish out Superscript to the anchors.

The warm-up route for this sector is a bit sandy and friable, particularly at the start, but is nonetheless worthwhile.

Easily but carefully past the dubious, blocky/honeycomb stuff to start, then an interesting traverse left followed by some engaging moves over the roof-let and above to gain the anchors below the roof.

As for Sandscript to the anchors, then out the lip past 3 more FHs to the higher loweroff.

Doesn't count if the don't reach the clipping hold above the anchors. Start as for Sandscript. Follow this to its 3rd bolt, then go straight up to another, step delicately R to the anchors of Clip Bait.

A short, warm-up route (21 if you finish as Buckets & Spades anchor The longer if a left-leading extension is described and better). Up the sandy stuff starting of a few jugs just R metres right of Sandscript, a technical move or two to reach the short corner. Up this to a crimpy traverse L with a sneaky hold hiding in the roof. Clipping hold hidden above the anchors.

Another very short, sandy-textured, warm-up route. Starts 2m right of Sand Script beneath a funky arete.

1. 3 bolts to rap anchor.

Closed project - please stay off.

1. 25m (23) Climb The Swarm P1 and step L past a bolt to a DBB

2. 35m (??) Up the steep pockets wall above the belay past 3 UBs, stepping R on to the prow. Up the prow and then L through the steep stuff to the anchors.

Excellent. Starts at the left –facing corner, down right about 10m from the warm up routes. P1 leads to a lower anchor point for more moderate classic. (1) 25m 23 Up via 3 bolts to gain a stance on the right arête of the initial corner and the line above. Up this, to move onto the wall on the left and up a few moves to a stance and DBB/lower off.

Excellent. Starts at the left –facing corner, down right about 10m from the warm up routes. Can be done in one pitch (15 bolt runners). Up via the 3 bolts in the corner to gain a stance on the right arête of the initial corner and the line above. Up this, to move onto the wall on the left and up a few moves to a stance and DBB/lower off. Some awkward moves to the roof, and some harder boulder moves around it. Up to a DBB/ lower off.

A stunner, which climbs the proudest part of a gorgeous wall on brilliant rock. (1) Starts as for The Swarm. Follow the first pitch of The Swarm until, part-way up its first pitch, a separate line diverges up right. Follow this to and through the roof and beyond.