攀登 in The Cloisters having 攀爬攻略

Finger crack and layback felt ok to piece together. Getting to the first part of the flake off the ground is the crux for me; maybe bad beta?

Nice. I did a direct finish where I went straight up afte the only pro on the climb was clipped. This was better than the original.o

Hey Damian I know you’re probably going to read this so I am using this public to platform to state my opinion. Brian has a proofread copy of your new guidebook and I read it today. overall really cool and I’ll definitely be picking up a copy. But in the central slabs, on extreme youth you said something along the lines of “this climb is nowhere near as extreme as it youth to be”. This is disgusting, please don’t print this as it is one of the worst puns I have seen in a very long time.

Fairly vegetated but nice Jamming and beautiful laybacking

Actually pretty sweet

Kinda thrutchy

Average quality

Ran out of pro halfway up had to toprope it. This thing eats green cams

Very hard for the grade.

A little bit too close and tempting to use the right hand arete.

Humzoo was a bad muthafucker. I don't think I'll ever be brave enough to lead this.

Brushed the crack out, looks like it's been a while since this has been climbed. Not a top shelf John Smart '78 route, but still pretty cool.

I always forget how good this is. Very clean rock and well protected. One of the better beginner trad routes around Canberra.

Was a sick experience not placing till the flake. Would recommend. Finger locks felt so solid this time! Fun sequences. Omg the feet wow Session before this I had my flash go to just above the good locks rest whipping on a nut, thanks you whoever retrieved it. It found its way home.

A fantastic route! I flubbed the lead (be careful with gear) but ropegun Tim nailed it. Complex and technical with a brilliant finish on fingerlocks and crystals.

4 years in the making,

Left a locker at the top here so it's easier to get off, please leave it

pretty good! except sunny slab at the top that resulted in serious dogging

toot toot!

The proper slab start (unprotected until you get to the crack) deserves a more difficult grade, particularly for leading. Tim did a few moves on lead, bailed, did an easier start to the right and traversed back to the route. The slab start is practically blank with only the tiniest crystals to work with. Fun crack/slab combo climbing throughout, an awkward finish with a poorly protected traverse topping out into a steep wide channel between two rocks.

I am happy to have had an opportunity to climb/second this route, but I will probably never repeat it or lead it. It's great fun, but it feels like the flake that makes the main crack for this climb is not long for this world. It's incredibly hollow and moved slightly with the touch. Even if the whole thing doesn't come off, it feels like sections of it could. 90% of the protection for this climb goes behind the flake. It just doesn't seem worth the risk.

Off-width crack at the bottom with very few options for feet outside the crack, eventually narrows into a hand crack with more solid foot holds outside the crack. Don't be like me - learn off-width technique before tackling this climb. I must have spent at least a half an hour flailing on the first few metres of off-width, thankfully I had a very patient belayer. Once I broke out of the off-width it was fairly smooth sailing for me until the top section. I used my first ever double-fist jam.

I ended up topping out left on the finish for Breakaway instead of right for Cocolossal. I was exhausted from wrestling the crack and didn't feel I had it in me for the roof. The off-width had also eaten my big cams and the roof looked like it needed some. The layback finger crack on a slab finish for Breakaway is much more pleasant than it looks from the ground - however the top out is deceiving. I assumed the top of the boulder was just around the corner, but when I came around the corner I found myself awkwardly straddling a saddle with a couple metres of thin crack and slab still to go. Having missed the rap rings at the top of Cocolossal due to my alternate finish, we walked off.

If I ever come back, I would be keen to lead Breakaway, which looks far more pleasant overall. Maybe once I learn off-width technique I'll try Cocolossal again and lead it in under an hour.

Only about 25. This should go down pretty easily really

Oh my calves .. after so long lol! Oh .. and the walk from the campground and the current bush bash. It's a big day!

A classic!

fantastic as always.

its good to be back after 2+ years. i remeber flailing up this on toprope

2 burns, psyched to get on it again. hopefully i get a chance to before i head of to the great white north.

Climbed really well on the onsight attempt fluffing the crux and put it down 2nd go. This was a brilliant climb and the best part was sending back to back with Dave

Nice corner, awesome warm up

Maybe my favourite tick to date! Pure ground up didn’t pre-place the first piece, couldn’t call it a true red point otherwise! So fired up

Sent placing all the gear in style so thought I’d go for it, red point was less elegant

Really fun to second this one,learning about placing gear. Needed a rest when the crack got thin unfortunately.

Very nice, tighter than expected, gloves may have been cutting off circulation or maybe I just worked hard

Nice, but needs a brush. Cool little section at the start keeps it interesting

Strenuous!! Despite the easy to place pro I kept running out of juice. Great jambing but glad I had gloves!

With rlthe right, cocolossal top out

Nice climbing. Should have worn both crack gloves

Damn hard, even for 19. Quite nice though a few more degrees would help

So much fun.

2nd attempt got ground to the crux with a take then took it to the top - maybe not as far off as I thought