攀登 in Europe by Lee Cujes

Seemed a bit tricky to solo in walking shoes. I backed off.

Nails hard bouldering. I had very little.

2 burns. To top, but not figured transition to right wall.

1 burn. Lots of tries of crux. Got foot across a few times but couldn’t transition

YESSS! Did the crux twice cleanly in thunderstorm 1 burn.

Wasp in the face, wasp on the pants, wasp dead, bolt fall off. Venga Lee Venga! (2 burns)

Couldn't do crux today, exhausted by 3rd try (3 burns).

3 burns. Felt strong. Almost got foot across to R wall on 2nd burn. 4 inches maybe. Next year!

Spanked. Bolts in the roof are now Bear Grylls water traps. Drip, drip, drip. Moss gardens.

Getting the gear on. I was getting my foot to the other wall but couldn't transition.

Fell on move to golf ball, struggled more on crux.

A brutal boulder leaving the 7a+, reminiscent of the Tiger Snatch crux -- a significant step up from anything I've tried in a long while. Left the gear on. Lowered off after 7pm.

Forgot beta, re-dialled.

To the baby's skull, didn't crush it.

Crushed the skull, came off hucking to the brick.

Totally awesome. Crux is certainly span-dependent. Five goes over three days.

Glorious quickdraw pulling. Novel gym hold in the roof.

To second last bolt on 2nd try

Well, what can I say? Overhyped for starters, bloody Gresham. Secondly, there's a blank patch so what's he done? Drilled a mono pocket. Yes, it is drilled. An my frikkin finger doesn't fit in properly. HB would have no chance. Train L-hand monos if you want this tick.

Fell at the 3/4 point.

Fell reaching to pocket

The gear is now on. Incredible route.

2 burns. One hanged the second burn.

Got off route, then crux smashed me. Did all moves to top.

Such a proud, soaring line. You just have to climb it. The crux was really hard for me. [6]

Two bolts, too cold.

First try today, and did it so nicely. I am stoked! [6]

Fell again, but spent the time and figured out the moves properly. Feeling a lot more positive now. It will go, just a question of when.

Fucked up the kneebar rest, juiced out

First burn. Jumped off the top. Why are the anchors all the way out there?

Surprisingly good 2nd burn. Made it to the dyno (8th bolt). Then shagged for the top bit. That's where you'll fall. The top.

First burn today fell just above kneebar, but figured out the top better.

4th burn. Bloody pumped, and fell off the top after the dyno. Sigh! Very close...

Fell after the dyno again. Sooo tired.

The classic, very overhung arete of Rodellar. Power endurance that seemed unlikely at first. When I ticked though, I crushed it. I hereby announce my retirement from climbing. For a while. [6]

Hats off to KP who sent in fine style. I got sorely brutalised by the pockets. Not my style baby!

New Mon Bat extension. Bouldery. Mine was perhaps the 2nd ascent? Chloe Minoret flashed it after me (gah!!!). Thanks to Simon for the draws and encouragement.

Insane 40m roof, my hat is off to the bolter. What an epic that would have been.

Hell, I couldn't get past the first bolt of the extension. It was soapy, but still. Desperate.

Putting the gear up, re-working things.

Fell going to the tennis-ball pocket.

Fell on the opening of the crux.

Robbie put the draws on so I could try for a redpoint straight up. Skipped two clips, fell on the traverse (highpoint), 10m fall. Skin destroyed.

Went up to clean the draws and somehow kept going despite screaming skin. My gaston power somehow compensated for my piss-poor finger strength. I battled my arse off for this. My best tick of the year? [6]

Final day of climbing in Kaly -- in the rain Psyched to do this big bad roof second go despite some wet tufas. [2]

To about halfway on the flash.

To just under the crux. I forget how much I ordinarily rely on friction. This thing is polished to a high gloss and you have to grip so bloody hard. The top crimpy crux is nails! Super solid 8a.

End of day get the gear on aid fest. Frikken hell! Topped out in dark. I hope this suffering pays dividends later. Seems a big step up from the 7c+s!

Well, felt a lot better than the day before. Did both the cruxes I struggled with previously.

1st redpoint attempt. Was feeling pretty okay at halfway just before the crux. Launched into the crux and energy went to zero in two moves. Sorted different beta, then went to the top clean which was encouraging. Time for a rest day, then I'll give it another day. But it might just be a bit too hard. We'll see.

Today should have been a rest day, but they're predicting 3 days of rain, and my draws were still up on this. So we came up to get them back. I gave it a red hot crack got a highpoint, but alas. Wasn't to be.

Couldn't do first move. Never a good sign.

Oh yeah! Some guys were on it when I walked up so I had to queue. Decided to watch and make the most of it. Used my own beta on the crux and just managed to squeak through. A rare, magic moment of climbing for me.

Got back on it after seeing some French guys kill it. Did all the moves in sweaty conditions. No French style though. Grunting, sweating Australian. Sigh.

This was surprising, and great. From not being able to get off the ground on my first try to totally walking it with near-French style. [2.1 :)]

Climbing is awesome, bolting is not (positions, and rust). Climbed to first crux onsight, worked this out (it's a foot dyno); but the top crux is unnecessarily way above the bolt. Took the fall once and pendulumed hard into the cliff, smashed up my arm. Took the fall twice and had enough. Needs a rebolt.