攀登 in Frankenjura Nord by Christoph Rauch having trad-cpr 或 ascent-date

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A bit scary both at the beginning and at the top. A piece of protection before the first bolt is recommended. And after the last bolt, either "just don't fall off", or place a cam in the crack on the left. Otherwise you could hit the tree in your back. The climbing itself is good, though!

Cool chimney (in both senses of the word) with a little tufa at the exit! I would have loved to climb the original Genitheim Gedenkweg, but people were climbing on the left. The series of cracks directly up from the chimney is good, though, too. You can protect it very easily up to the last 5 or so meters, then either run it out or fiddle around with small nuts and slings. Or use the bolts, whatever.

Looks like something broke in the middle, but maybe it was always this hard. It's never climbed of course because there are only a few rusty pegs. Well, nothing here gets done, really.

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Not a highlight. Short traverse to a wide crack on jugs, then a bit strenuously up to a ledge and on good holds even further up.

Good natural line with difficulty after the single bolt. The finish is a bit dirty, unfortunately.

I was very surprised about this. Some people complain about choss and dirt online, but either this is long gone or they didn't climb this correctly. It's actually a really good crack climb with plenty of options for protection, so if you'd like to hone your skills ...

For me this is the better version of "1984". Never liked the awkward difficult part of the latter. The "variant" in the name refers to the original "Emporweg", though.

One of the very few routes in this grade in the Frankenjura that stays completely dry in pouring rain.

Second time around, it was nice to see that the second pitch can really be done by crawling all the way.

Nice starting variant along the obvious crack, nuts are a must.

Climbed the original line this time, starting like Mäuselkante, then going left around the arête and up to the ledge.

Originally climbed with only one bolt in the first pitch, which is astonishing. The second pitch is only recommended for enthusiasts; the ringed bolt directly after the belay is followed up with only three pitons and a good tree. Powerful over the bulge, then grassy to the headwall, which is actually quite nice and not too intimidating despite the old pegs.

The south-west chimney isn't entirely trivial. From the plateau it's enjoyable wall climbing along the easiest line.

#jahreserste2024

#jahreserste2024

#jahreserste2024

#jahreserste2024

A bit easier than the zealously overbolted "Alte Talwand", but, I must admit, not as good. Draws to the left, almost to the arête, after the second ledge (look for the bolt). From there, straight up over blocky ledges to the top.

#jahreserste2024

Climbed it again to be able to abseil down to the beginning of Wolf-Albrecht-Gedenkweg, which is no longer easily reachable from the right, and neither from below because there's only choss and moss.

Pretty good for something that isn't on anybody's radar. Nice crack and dihedral climbing up to the middle, then cool traverse to the right, and an airy finishing dance on the arête, then either get to the easy terrain on the right or (bolder) climb directly up the arête.

Forgotten route, probably hasn't been done in ages. The vegetation is thick. It's a shame, because the climbing isn't that bad.