攀登 in 斯洛文尼亚 by mike

After the crux, it gets really bushy. Bring a machete!

Needed to retrieve draws from "As". Downclimbed before first bolt. Start extremely hard and hard to read for the grade.

No idea how to get to bolt 3.

Not sure if tree trunk is on. Even with it, clipping the 3rd bolt safely seemed impossible for me. Very short, sustained and hard, but good route.

Sidarta guide has it at 5a. Approprriate, I guess.

Sketchy start. Getting to the first bolt not trivial with slippery feet. Technically not an onsight, as I downclimbed again.

Jugs with slippery feet.

Crux pretty much at the end of the route. Abit hard to read.

warmup

warmup

Getting to the harder part was easy, but then… no clue. Sun didn‘t help either.

Mesed up crux after first bolt. Def. harder than 5c - my guide has it at 6a ;-)

Did not actually feel that much harder than the 6a, but I did one move terribly wrong. Near the top I woke up a European edible dormuse who seemed to sleep in a hole!

Not sure what the problem was. There are two exit variants, the left one seemed pretty hard. Considering it‘s right above a ledge, I went right….

Too hesitant at crux, which needs a short burst of commitment.

Sandbagged a.f. Run out to rusty chains.

Sandbagged a.f. Run out to rusty chains.

Crux: getting to 2nd and 3rd bolt.

1. Feet high when getting to the slopey obvious hold on the left - shared with "Antiche sere". Then, left hand goes to right side of better hold top right of that hold.

2. To get to bolt 3, after the sidepull jug on the right, left hand to obvious hold on left. Stretch to bad holds top right of undercling. Right foot into tiny hole, left foot on slabby white part above.

Rest of route quite a bit easier.

No chance to get to 2nd bolt and safely clip it. Don't like crux-starts. 😔

Almost had the on-sight, but then - just before the chains - Idid not find the good hold on the left. Instead I got lost by climbing way too far to the right.

Warm-up

Did not see the good left-hand hold to get to/clip the 4th bolt.

Even found another good hold... Yay...

Warm-up

Warmup. Steep climbing on jugs and slightly polished feet.

Cool down.

Steep climbing on jugs, except around the crux it gets a bit trickier.

One-move-wonder (overhang). My guide has it at 5c, which is probably appropriate.

Really nice and varied climbing. Start a bit wet, but easy, then some nice technical climbing up to the dihedral / huge flake where it gets steeper for a bit, but not harder.

Easy (3) up to the crux overhang. Nice sequence that I could not decipher on sight. Could not give another go because of impending rain.

Boulder at start, then very easy. Not really worth it.

Warm up.

Choss up to first bolt, then hard bouldery sequence from second to fourth, then botanical garden.

Great technical route. Good holds with bad feet, except the crux between bolts 4 and 5, which has a good ledge to get your feet onto but no(?) holds? Did not find a solution there. Clipping bolt 6 was challenging as well.

warm up. not trivial.

The crux seemed excessively hard for the grade when using the wrong footholds. With the right ones, on the other hand, everything flowed nocely.

Steep endurance route without rest (well, for me at least) with a significant crux move in the upper third. Not what I‘m used to, but nice route. Do not have the endurance to do it.