攀登 in Puig Campana

Lo dividimos en 6 largos. El 6a+ me ha parecido bastante durete, no se si ya por el cansancio. El resto… mi opinión de grados es… 5+,5+,5,5+,5, 6a+. El L4 por donde he salido tenía un hostion interesante al salir de la R, el resto se protege bastante bien.

In 3 pitches after abbing off Diamante. On first 3 pitches (run them together), slight route-finding issues, but good fun dodging loose blocks and finding my way up. After that, the route becomes very good, with strange rock shapes, fun moves, some exposed bits. Decided to ab not on the face, but to the right through the gulleys. Went quite well considering it was in the dark.

Be sure to check the route. We ended up in a crag at least 6b... Seems that a lot of people miss up there due to old ropes placed in the wall.

Climbed it with Thorbjörn. We where very focused on this climb and made a recognition the day before, half way up to the start of the climb ensuring both the access path and the descent of the mountain.

We started the day at 05.00 with an excellent breakfast made by Benny at Villa Pico, then drove and started walking at 06.30 in the dark. Marvelous sunrise around 7, started climbing in blocks at 07.30. After Thorbjörn's lead of the direct start, I took over and started wrongly up the rappel descent following red arrows up??? After 2 short pitches, I just knew it was wrong due to to harder climb than 4+, Thorbjörn traversed right under a tree/bush back right on to the main climb missing out the original pitches 4-7. Then, I took over leading pitch 8, Thorbjörn passed by and led the short 9 pitch, then I finished my block lead with pitch 10. Thorbjörn continued and finished the climb leading the last 3 pitches. Thereafter, we failed to fully complete the Edward's finish and stopped the climb to the top and started the descent. The entire outing took 9h car2car, the actual climb to the top of Espolôn Central took 4.5h, i.e. we where there around noon. The descent takes time and is very slippery with lots of loose rocks.

Led all pitches. The ascent was an adventure.

Amazing big wall on great rock. Full value at the grade, definitely not a ladder and a cruxy P9. Decent in the dark was a little sketchy.

With Neil. O/s pitches 1-2, 4-5 and 7. Clean 2nd P3 and P6. Linked several pitches into exciting 45m pitches. Quite sandbagged and frustrating route finding with guide descriptions and the new routes in the area, but some exciting old school trad multi nevertheless.

With Neil. Clean.2nd P1 (access pitch) and o/s P2. Bailed from P3 when the rock quality went to hell and we realised we were running out of daylight for the epic abseil descent. P2 was "out there" crazy traversing over insane steepness on loose blocks and flakes with some exciting gear. Exciting in a masochistic kind of way.

Espectacular, facil pero te pone en tu sitio despues de tantas horas de ascenso