线路 in 美国 for selected grade

The face right of the offwidth crack.

Slab right of Transportation Crack.

Head up the bulgy prow left of the downclimb, with the big chest height heuco. Harder & better if you eliminate the holds in the groove to the right.

The obvious steep slab facing the Mr Magoo boulder. Start on the low rail to the left.

Several variants, including:

• "Flying Kiwi" - take a running start and launch for the top (height dependent grade)
• "No hands" - start in the corner and ascend the slab without using your hands (V2)

Location

Route starts just left of the start of J-Crack (a blocky, loose-looking scramble up a steep ramp). Look for the thick flake going straight up the wall with finger-sized and smaller protection.

Gear

60m rope, single rack up to #3, plenty of nuts.

P1 5.9

Follow the blocky flake straight up until it ends at a tat rappel sling. Clip the sling and do a diagonal traverse beneath the small roof. Continue a bit further left until you reach a good belay ledge (also the first belay for Pear Buttress).

P2 5.9

Continue traversing the sloping belay ledge until you reach the left of two finger cracks (the first is Visual Aids 5.10b). Place good protection here, so you don't take a swinging factor 2 off the crux of the route. The crack starts as a shallow, flaring hand crack with good fingers if you reach deeper. It then eases up to solid hand jams taking you up the rest of the pitch. Towards the top, tend slightly right to reach a belay ledge just wide and long enough to take a well-deserved nap on.

P3 5.9

Start going straight up the crack on the right side of the belay ledge to reach the bottom of a large diagonal roof. Undercling traverse up and left under the roof until you can make an awkward exit up it's left end. Continue up several more feet, to a large belay ledge.

P4 5.7

Look for "The Cave", an obvious cave above and right of your belay stance. Scramble up easy slabs to get inside the cave, then heroically navigate the roof to finish the route. Tall climbers will be able to clip a piton before getting into the business.

Descent

Walk off the back side of the wall down a dirty gully. Optionally skip the worst part of the descent rappelling off a large pine tree accessible by traversing a sloping ledge at the top of the descent. Follow the trail until it returns to the J Crack Slab.

On the Lamb, 700’, 5.9

1st Pitch- 80m- 5th/ We soloed this pitch and most climbing this route will be comfortable with that. I solo this grade a lot but still appreciated having my climbing shoes on versus trail runners. This corner is plenty steep on a bit of flaky granite. Some summit logs go on about a “cave”, “trees vs bushes”, etc. It is actually really simple. Climb the corner to its top, traverse right onto a nice ledge and set up a belay for the first pitch. You can’t see the horizontal crack that makes up the majority of the route until you turn the west face. There is not much of a north face, you pretty much turn from east to west crossing the first arête to the west on the third pitch.

2nd Pitch- 30m- 5.5/ Traverse straight out right over run-out slab and up a short distance to reach a right facing corner. Don’t climb this first corner. Down climb a bit and keep traversing to a much cleaner and smaller right facing corner with a variety of comfortable belays to choose from.

3rd Pitch- 30m- 5.8/ Climb the corner above to meet the horizontal feature that makes up the majority of this climb. Climb right over one arête (can be windy) and continue along to a small gear belay with a comfortable stance or a few more meters and down climb to a fixed belay.

4th Pitch- 60m- 5.9/ Continue on the traverse. When you get to another blunt arête and check out the other side, you will see the crux 40’ hand rail section with blank slab below it. Place a solid .75" at the arête and keep your arms straight to avoid pumping yourself out for no reason as some do on this section as you hand-over-hand the rail to the next foot rest. If your 2nd has limited experience, you might want to plug a piece or two along the way, but you will be hanging by one hand as you do it unless you aid it. A competent second can plug gear back in that they cleaned if they need a rest. Once you get through this crux, the climbing is still enjoyable for a bit. When it starts to really ease up, look for a short left facing corner and bolt above. This is the first pitch of Jailbreak. Set up a medium gear belay in the base of the corner with a comfortable stance.

5th Pitch- 20m- 5th/ If you are not finishing on Jailbreak to the summit, which is what I recommend you do, then finish off the horizontal to the western shoulder of Lamb Dome and walk off.

Leave all extra gear and packs in the car. Just wear your harness and gear for the short, steep approach (if you do this, and wear approach shoes, most parties are able to just scramble up the first pitch, witch is two hundred plus feet of mostly 5.3). Bring: 1 Set: offset Nuts Cams: 2 ea .3”-1.25” 3 ea 1.5”, 2”, 3” 1 ea 4” (If doing offwidth variation as last pitch): 1 ea 5”

Far right of Orange Peel ledge. Keeping off the blocks behind you, climb the slab with a very high first bolt. Climbing eases up from the first bolt. 5.7 if you use the blocks.

Follow the crack that meanders up the corner between 'Narcissism' and 'Ankles Away'.

Classic laybacking down low. Shame it's so short!

A slightly harder version of Left Up. Can be a quick fun route if things are busy at the South Face area.

Location: Located just to the right of Left Up and just left of Stage Ledge, etc.

Protection: Standard NC rack, runners, 1 rope. Slings on tree for rappel.

Pro to 3", with triples of 2" cams.

Monkey out on break, then pull that roof baby. Follow the crack up the face.

Just right of Jacob's Ladder

Pro to 3".

Up the jugs left of The Lieback. This panel has numerous harder sit starts, eliminates and variants.

The overhanging face with jugs, then traverse off right, or continue up the easy grey flake, or continue straight up the loose highball black corner (best climbing & shown on the topo). Sit start is V1, and there are numerous variants on the steep lower wall.

Start at the rippled brown wall underneath the overlap. Up then left over the overlap and up the highball but easy wall above.

Start: Just right of Rat Hole. Go: Climb straight up the left side fo the small face, starting on the broken bulge and on to the thin face holds and the top.

Challenging for the grade.

Starts left of the gully, just right of the Indian Paintings.