线路 in World for selected grade

Very entertaining. Just be aware that at times you have to climb on large apparently detached blocks. Start 1 metre left of where the the big dead tree was until last Friday (i.e. left-hand crack on front of buttress).

1. 40m (9) Slabby thin crack on left side of buttress to ledge. Step right and pull through bulge then straight up to huge ledge.

2. 40m (9) Behind are twin V cracks up the right side of the buttress. It is usual to move straight up from the ledge and then move across right and climb the right-hand crack but either crack is OK. An optional third pitch is to climb the blade of rock at the end of the second pitch.

A truly great climb up the middle of the Watchtower. Many variants are possible, especially in the middle section; yes they have already been climbed. Start up the right-hand of the two deep cracks at the base of The Watchtower. This is just left of the undercut section (Pumping), and 9m R of Watchtower Chimney.

1. (40m, 8) Up deep crack until it ends. Traverse 4 metres right, up over disconcerting bulge and follow crack to large ledge. (The first ascent traversed all the way to the right arete before climbing bulge).

2. (21m, 8) Either climb up left of the belay or climb just right of the crack until below bulge and then step left over the crack. Belay on narrow ledge below overhang on left side of The Watchtower.

3. (14m, 9) Either climb straight up veering slightly right, or traverse right on smooth rock past ancient piton before moving right. Belay in a good cave on the right side of the buttress.

4. (30m, 8) Move left out of cave and up exhilarating wall to top. Prearrange your signals as communication is likely to be impossible from the top.

A wonderful long classic, climbed at the same time as Introductory Route. A remarkably well-conceived line, it culminates in a magnificent final corner.

Start as for Introductory Route, on the right side of the Tiptoe Ridge buttress, about 10 metres right of a major corner (Ordinary Trees), where two detached blocks are sitting just off the ground. There's an overhang about 6 metres up and a large dead tree marking the top of the pitch.

1. 25m (4) Up the wall, passing the overhang on the left, then up to the dead tree, as for the first pitch of Introductory Route.

2. 35m (8) Move right and up a little crack then follow prominent right-leading diagonal to a spectacular ledge on the arete. Note that the climb originally climbed the latter part of this pitch out right near the arete, now included in the second pitch of Xena.

3. 35m (8) A mildly terrifying step across the void leads to easy climbing diagonally right. A few tricky moves then lead to a comfortable ledge below the big corner, with DRB.

4. 25m (6) Up corner to next ledge or carry on up the next pitch.

5. 25m (9) Up corner which finishes with a few rounded layback moves, then continue up little wall and belay on terrace.

From here either walk off left along terrace and scramble up little gully and wall to top or climb little right-facing corner just left of final belay. This is grade 11.

Very nice.

Start: Immediately right of 'Bullet Buttress'. A steep wall leads to a baby chimney, then up easily and step left into BB.

Bottomless crack 3m R of Charity at the R crack.

Impossible to get lost on.

Starts above the plaque on the north-west side of the crag. It's the obvious wide chimney, that narrows to a crack near the top.

A very popular variant on Arachnus, but more serious because of the poorly protected section on pitch three.

1. 40m (8) Arachnus p1.

2. 12m (8) Up smooth wall just right of crack, traverse right, then up to small ledge below juggy crack through overhang.

3. 23m (9) Up crack, then balance carefully right (poor protection) for 4 metres. More easily up to cave belay.

4. 30m (8) Arachnus p4.

Step R from cave to ledge. Then up corner or nose, both with poor pro.

Start: Start as for 'Cricket Bats in a Box'.

An easy, well-protected popular classic. Climbed on a searing summer's day, it was the first climb done on 'The Northern Slabs', taking the line of least resistance. Start at a slanting crack eight metres left of 'Equilibrium'.

1. 40m - Rightwards up the crack, then follow the groove leftwards to a sloping ledge. Belay at some wedged blocks.

2. 20m - Doddle leftwards up the groove to a belay in the corner.

3. 25m - Bridge and layback up the short corner, then left and up the steepening groove. Continue to a ledge and belay on the right.

4. 35m - Up the twin grooves to a large terrace covered with loose rock.

This is often run together into two pitches (1/2, 3/4) rather than four. If you love slabs it's also possible to combine P2 and P3 by slabbing up as for Ephemeros, avoiding the short corner on P3.

On top of elevated block, in front of the vertical crack. An excellent route for beginners.

Step across onto the wall and right to BR. Head straight up the wall (small cam and BR) to rounded top out. Double RB belay / rap station.

Deep crack on left side of Conifer Crack buttress, in the gully. Take some large gear.

Start on the arete right of 'Locris', and follow it up the slab. Take trad gear for the top if you'd be uncomfortable with easy climbing through a 4-5m runout between the last bolt and the anchors - can step around to front of buttress and clip 5th bolt of OFTM now (Dec 2016)

1. 24m (8) Follow Phoenix for 8 metres to thread runner then out right and up past all 'Highway' 8 sign to shallow corner. Up to ledge.

2. 25m (9) Gain the line just to the right and up to crawl through hole to ledge.

3. 30m (9) Traverse 6 metres left to crack and up this to big ledge.

4. 20m (8) Walk 12 metres left and up tricky wall to right end of Flinders Lane.

Well protected line on left side of buttress to the right of Grey Arete. Climb easily up the rib with the big trench to the wall at top on left with the shallow double corner. Good wires in the left corner then up to jugs and around right to follow the diagonal right leading line to the top and DRB. FA soloed.

A great adventure.

Start below major chimney on left side of cliff.

Note that numerous variants are possible, and have been done, from the middle of pitch 3 to the terrace at the end of pitch 4.

1. 50m (9) Up wall then chimney to terrace.

2. 13m (9) Just to the right is a short, right-facing corner. Up this and step right to belay.

3. 18m (9) Up righthand V-corner to roof. Move left under roof then step right and up to ledge.

4. 25m (9) 'Diagonal' up right (as for Tale Of Woe) to huge terrace.

5. 30m (7) Pull onto wall right of undercut arete, traverse right and go up on horizontal breaks approximately 6 metres right of arete. At ledge, move left and up. The fingery wall just right of the arete is Court Jester's finish.

Good rock. Takes the prominent prow 30 metres down left of Mason's Apron. There's a small, chipped mark near the ground.

1. 27m (10) Either climb the ramp from the right, or direct up a tricky seam to a small ledge under the overhang. Go 3 metres left then gain main, left-facing corner and go up.

2. 8m (5) Romp to the top.

The crack at the left end of the wall has a tricky move at half-height.

Start: Start 5 metres left of "Deacon's Dilemma".

First climb on the right of the descent gully.

Josie climbs her age on her first project.

Chimney-crack 2 metres left of "Prelate".

Straight up the set of ledges immediately to the left of the roof, until you reach the two bolt belay. Plenty of spots for gear.

Traverse left and up through a wide crack.

Start: Start 5 metres up and right of "Armageddon" at initials "HB"

Up, then L on ledges. Finish up black crack in upper L wall.

Start: Start 1 m R of 'Strife on the Gravy Train'.

One of the easiest sport climbs in the Blue Mountains. Good one for the kiddies.

Start at parallel cracks 3 meters left of direct start.

Start 1 metre right of The Slab. Head up an easy right-veering crack, finishing at a two-bolt belay. Your pick as to which one!

A very short twin crack corner to a ledge stance. From there, ramble up the line of best rock and least vegetation.

Not the most classy route to be found. Stop and belay at the large tree. Scramble easily off L, or rap.

Blast up the obvious corner past a bit of choss, loose rocks and well, some Dracophyllum plants!

The major skanky diagonal cleft.

This baby offwidth was possibly first climbed by Bob Craddock.

The left-most deep crack on the roadside face.

Solo of course!

Start: The offwidth. Would be nice with a lower off.

Beginners delight. The right hand side of the easy angled slab.

4 RB's to DBB.

The middle bolt line up the cliff.

Formerly an X trad route, now a very closely bolted sport route. This is a good lead for a beginning lead climber.

Links in der Ostwand schrofige Schlucht, oben linksh., zu Sandband (Blockschlinge). Auf diesen 15m nach rechts (Blockschlinge + 4.AÖ). Kamin im Winkel bzw. dessen re. Kaminkante (PORZELLANKANTE) zu Abs. (links NR). Rechts schräge Kamine zu Abs. (1.R des KRIPPENER WEGES). Rechts seichte Rinne hoch, nach wenigen Metern Umstieg in rechte Rinne u. diese zu Verklüftung (rechts auf kl. Pfeiler Nachholöse). In der Kluft zur Schusterplakette u. Kamin absteigen. (Oberhalb des Kamingrunds Stand an Knotenschlingen. Nicht an der dünnwandigen SU!!) Rechts kurzen engen Kamin zum unteren Reitgrat, diesen bis zum zum Ende u. links überdachte Wandstufe zu gr. Abs. (Schlinge). Dahinter zu Kamin und linksgeneigte Rippe (oberer Reitgrat) z.G.

Ausführliche Wegbeschreibung. Topo.

Just right of Sasha. Up the obvious flake, then left around the bulge along the obvious line.

Start about 6m right of the Main Corner, and climb the face up to a 2-bolt anchor. Lots of variations possible.

Climb the obvious crack that leads to blocks about 3m right of the arete (Broken Corner). Variations around the "block" are possible.

The 3rd bolt line on Spindrift Wall. Climb the face just outside the corner that is Arachnophobia.

Starts a meter or so right of Main Corner, then up onto a sloping ledge (ramp) and upwards to the corner above. 2 bolts for anchor.

Crack 3 metres right of Max is also quite good.

The obvious "main corner". 2 bolts for an anchor at top.

Nice and long for these parts.

Start: Initialled corner a few m R of 'Cypress'.

1. 12m (9) Up corner to the ledge. The variant moves R at the flake then up the wall (15).

2. 12m (9) The crack on the L.

Strenuous for the grade but has great jugs. The Shepherd guide description for Menagerie followed this line but the original Menagerie description clearly places it further right. Start at top of rise behind the largest conifer (?same place as Heavy Petting).

Rechts in der Südseite auf Absatz, dann rechts der Rippe folgen. An derem Ende über Reibungswand zum Gipfelaufbau.

Up the left crack to the apex, continue up the crack stepping left into a wide groove.

Start right of largest conifer. Short red groove, traverse right then up to left-facing corner. Up corner and exit left.

The clean square cut corner groove 5m left of 'Thanks for the Mammaries'.

Start marked. Easy corner past pillar and up L side of wall.

At the LH end of the slabs is a clean streak. Up onto the ramp [FH], move slightly R then up the streak past 3 FH to DBB. There is a slightly harder start to the R heading straight up to the 2nd FH.

Crack 1m left of WR.

Up crack in recess, very pleasant over the bulge, then chimney. Triple BB belay (shared with WtT).

Easy and enjoyable. The corner crack left of Gherkin. 5m up the slab to the base of the corner, climb the well-protected corner, then easily leftwards to the top.

Start 1 metre left of first bolt and up, nice grey rock up high

Start: a few metres Left of A Bad Dose Of Rigamortice. Up easy slab on pockets and jugs past three carrots, then traverse out Right to chains on ABDOR.

A popular outing following the prominent diagonal line. Not really sure that it warrants a star though.

1. 30m (8) Follow the major left-leading diagonal from the terrace until it ends. Belay on ledge past first little cave.

2. 25m (9) Diagonally right, passing large roofs on the right, finishing over a little bulge.

3. 30m (7) As for the final pitch of 'Beau Geste'.

The left-most named climb on the Main Corner area, it goes up the Arete at the foot of the ascent/descent gully. Variations branching out on the wall to the left of the Arete are possible. 2 bolt anchor at top.

Easy slab 10m right of PPS with a somewhat wayward 3rd bolt. This bolt does allow link ups if you are so inclined.

Easy pleasure climbing on always good holds.

Gestufte SO-Kante gerade hoch bis zur Umlenkung.

South-eastern arête straight to the top.

Completes the trilogy of nice easy climbs in this area. Think of it as an indirect start to 'Predator'. Step off the 'Mesa' boulder and head up right to the airy arete. Continue steeply over the right side of the roof and up juggy groove to ledge. The 'Mesa' rap anchor is just to the left.

Marked 'SL'. Straight up crack with good gear to ledge. Finish up easy but poorly protected pocketed face as for 'Walk The Line'.

Two pitches that can be done in one pitch of some of the easiest climbing you'll do all day. The view from the top can't be beat, though, and is worth the little jaunt. Two lowers are needed, however, or walk off to the left down a forested trail.

Go to Jimmy left, and then keep going left. You'll reach some big, clean slabs that seem to go on for days. The line of bolts starts from the lowest point on the wall and travels basically straight up from there. Bolts are spaced far apart, as the easy slab climbing could be done in running shoes. Stone is grippy and the path goes over some bulgy bits to the top. Fantastic views!!

Same bolts as "Piazwand"

5 m links von "Alter Weg" linksgeneigeten Handriss und Rippe zum Absatz von "Alter Weg". Diesen zG.

An der rechten Pfeilerkante zu zweiten Band. Auf diesem nach links zu kurzem Riss. Diesen hoch und weiter nach links. Leicht linksansteigend und links der linken Pfeilerkante auf den Pfeiler. Wand zum Gipfel.

Start on the L wall, then the R. Bridge airily to an awkward and runout finish L around the roof. Start on the next buttress uphill from Morfydd, at a chimney with a square roof.

There is an obvious wide chimney on the side facing the road -- climb this chimney, or mostly the right-side wall of the chimney on veneer plates and cracks. Then, rather than having to pull the over-hanging apparent finish, escape back through a tunnel (the "eye").

Face 1 metre left of 'The Priest'

#sitstart #topout

Die Ostkante, an mehreren Sanduhren vorbei, zum Gipfel.

#sitstart #topout

Up left arete.

An der Südostseite, feiner Rissspur folgend, oben Grat zum Gipfel.

This climbs the gully to the right of lower solar slab.

1. 150ft 5.1. Climb past first anchor at 80' to second anchor at 150' on a solid ledge beside a small tree.

2. 80ft 5.0. Climb up and left with some 3rd class to the base of a wide chimney split by a rib.

3. 150ft 5.1. Climb up the crack on the right side of the rib, then up some easy slab to a short steep section.

4. 80ft 5.3 Climb up a steep section (stemming), to flat ground, to a second (less) steep section, then look for an anchor on light-coloured rock to the right of the gulley.

Rappel the route (should go on a single 60m rope).

Von der Südkante rechtsansteigend Rampe und Ostkante zG.